New 2021 View 24D first impressions - Page 2

BigTexEd · 08-16-2020, 11:18 AM

Day 3 of the RV experience.

I figured out the hot water problem! It’s not enough to do everything correct, except I had to power off the heater, then back on. It worked after that. Sheesh. Rookie.

I adjusted the following:
Side door: I could see daylight at the bottom. I adjusted the latch. It’s blacked out now.
Speaker: disabled the center speaker. Took me about 2 minutes. Sounds way better, but I’m going to have to replace the door speakers and tweeters soon.
Battery tray: dealer adjusted it during demo. It came loose when driving down the road. I adjusted and tightened with a wrench. Dealer did it hand tight.
Front vent: dealer demoed the fan going in reverse by pressing the button. It does not go in reverse. I’ll need to get the parts to actually let it go in reverse.
Sway bar: 2021 is super beefy as Crah said. No need to replace that. The spring bumper is lame and the rear shocks are lame. I’ll replace those with Fox 2.5 once they get in.
Apps: got the awning app paired. Ho-hum. The LiFe04 app is awesome. Tons of info. Winegard app is tolerable. Set once and forget. Xantrex BT app didn’t work. Found out why. Winnebago installed the non-BT panel. It cost about $20 more for the BT panel...sigh. Looks like I’ll be switching out the remote panel to BT for about $90. I want to see what’s going on while traveling. I’ve had the generator turn off a few times. Don’t know why it stopped, but the heat was coming in with the A/C off. I wished the generator and onePlace had an app. The auto leveler app is good. It’s a virtual copy of the physical panel. It’s cool, because I used the app while observing the actual jacks work under the coach. After level, I had the right hand side come up a few inches. Weird. I manually lowered them and was able to see exactly when to stop with phone control while observing the jacks operating. Nice.

I can feel the mods starting. I was up till 3am planning the list. The list is partially dependent on parts.

Coach:
1) A/C mods. Tape, grills
2) Overland quest sunshades
2.5) close off skylight in shower
3) Ceramic window tint everywhere
4) front fan reverse working
5) fix all the places missing insulation. Thanks Crah.
6) Sumo springs
7) Fox 2.5 shocks
8) Onan resonator

My house.
Install 30A or 50A service. I have to run the generator all the time now. I’ll need to see if there is a price difference. I may want to scale it up to 50A just in case I move up.
Install sewer dump. My house has septic and it happens to be next to where I park the coach. Nice.
I already have water next to coach.

crah · 08-16-2020, 12:24 PM

For your power at your house I installed Siemens TL137US Talon Temporary Power Outlet Panel with a 20, 30, and 50-Amp Receptacle Installed, Unmetered. On Amazon. Nice to have 50,30, and 20amp service. The one place is a generic terrible panel. I was disappointed with it. The tank levels goes from 1/3 to empty as soon as it hits the 1/3 marker. Not very useful for boondocking. I purchsed the sea level panel with bluetooth to replace but have not installed it yet though. If you like bluetooth, you can also change out the thermostat to a bluetooth one (same model). It has a great range and now I keep my coach plugged in at the house and control the temp from inside. I set it at 86 most of the time and prior to a trip I change to my desired setting all from the house. Nice to monitor the temp from inside the house as well.

Hope your door adjustment works out. I did the same but as soon as you leveling the coach and start driving, the gap opens up again in the future. I plan in adding more rubber seal in those areas.

rprochnow · 08-16-2020, 12:44 PM

Another upgrade we made was ordering a shorter post for the secondary pedestal table. The stock post is too high - we went with a post 3" shorter which brings the table down to a more comfortable height for dining or using a laptop.

The dinette is about 1" too high, but not enough to get us to swap that out for a shorter post - yet.

Accipiter · 08-19-2020, 04:50 PM

Sound like you are having a few issues. We have a 19VG and have found we get 14 mpg with a toad and 18 mpg without one but we only drive 60 to 64 mph. When it is really hot outside we put up a curtain or blanket up between the cab and the living area which really helps the AC. There is also a private group on Facebook called "View/Navion Motorhomes" and they have tons of files for many different issues for the motorhomes. If you can't find something plenty of people are there to answer questions there too.

mtnbikertn · 08-19-2020, 05:57 PM

I cannot believe they quit making the profile. Mine is a 2013 view profile w MCD blackout shades. I regularly run 80 plus and get 13mpg. At 65 I get closer to 15. I always prime the propane by starting stove to get air out of line. I bought an extender for gen exhaust for noise and air quality
The profile has much less windage.

Lou D · 08-19-2020, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rprochnow

We purchased our 2021 View 24D in early June and have already taken several Texas trips (from Houston). A few comments:

We upgraded our TV from the stock 32" ATYME "dumb" TV with poor speakers to a 32" Samsung 4K Smart TV, with much better speakers (can hear it fine without a sound bar) - and now we not only get streaming apps - we can also stream in 4K!.

We purchased our View at Lichtsinn (1000 mile drive from home) - and they were fantastic with the walkthrough and providing us post-delivery support before we drove home.

Lichtsinn hardwired a surge protector in the electric compartment - something I would strongly recommend, vs. having a portable surge protector. If an authorized Winnebago service dealer installs the upgrade, it shouldn't impact your warranty. If someone else does it, that could void the warranty. [There have been some discussions about owners installing their own lithium batteries on a new View - and I strongly expect that upgrade would also invalidate the Winnebago warranty on any electrical issues, unless the installation is done by an authorized Winnebago dealer or partner.]

Since picking up our View in early June, we've already done 3 weeklong trips and one long weekend trip - and love our View - and planning to take many more trips in the months ahead. The 24D floor plan is fantastic for 2 people - and has allowed us to already entertain family with all of the dining and seating area.

As for fit & finish - there are a few small areas - such as chipped paint on the inside of the rear wheel wells - but nothing major that can't be fixed the next time we have the View in for service. We'll probably make the 1000 mile drive back to Lichtsinn next summer and let them do the first annual maintenance.

I would love to replace the Anytime "dumb" TV with a Samsung 4K Smart TV but has anyone been able to figure out how to mount the new Samsung Smart TV to a mounting bracket securely without zip tying the TV to the old mounting bracket?

rprochnow · 08-19-2020, 11:21 PM

If you're willing to drill holes in the door where the TV is mounted, you will have more options. I was trying to avoid that.

Of course, you could use some metal fasteners, if you want something stronger than the zip ties (though the zip ties are individually rated strong enough to hold the TV - and with many of them, the weight on each tie should be well below it's limit).

BuckeyeTrish · 09-05-2020, 08:55 AM

Hoping this post goes to everyone that has responded to original post...I’m new at this😩 We have new 2020 View 24v. Have taken 3 trips everything works as expected...except the TVs. Once we had cable at campground and it wouldn’t play even after Mgr tested his outlet. Our dealer hooked up vcr to exterior outlet and said all is well. We think our settings are correct. Can anyone shed light on this? we have been using ROKU via WiFI but that can be spotty. Not having much luck receiving channels via antenna. Any help appreciated

DavidM · 09-05-2020, 09:04 AM

You have to go through the tuning process for every new area. There is a setting in the menu of the TV that makes it search all channels and then use that info to populate its channel guide. After you go through that you should be able to see programs by clicking on one of the choices in the guide.

The VCR uses channel 3 which was probably programmed in at the factory.

David

Lou D · 09-05-2020, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidM

You have to go through the tuning process for every new area. There is a setting in the menu of the TV that makes it search all channels and then use that info to populate its channel guide. After you go through that you should be able to see programs by clicking on one of the choices in the guide.

The VCR uses channel 3 which was probably programmed in at the factory.

David

Also, when using the antenna for OTA TV make sure the antenna amplifier is turned on.

BuckeyeTrish · 09-05-2020, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lou D

Also, when using the antenna for OTA TV make sure the antenna amplifier is turned on.

Thanks but that’s not my question. we cannot get cable to work when at a campground that offers cable. Here’s what we do. 1- connect campground coax to inbound connection in electrical compartment 2-turn off antennae booster 3-set tv to cable 4- scan channels 5- receive nothing ��
What are we missing? Or do we have internal cable issue?

BlueGekko · 09-05-2020, 02:25 PM

BuckeyeTrish, there’s a veerrry small, black button mounted on a black cable connection plate, probably in the cabinet behind the TV. (That’s where mine is on my ‘19 24D). You may need to shine a flashlight on the plate to see the tiny button. That button has to be either clicked in or out (forget which position) to receive TV by cable or over the air. And, as mentioned before, to receive over the air TV, you have to do a scan every time you move the motorhome.

BlueGekko · 09-05-2020, 02:32 PM

BigTexEd, I read an article on one of the forums last week cautioning against dumping your black water into your septic. According to the author, the odor neutralizing fluid you flush into your black water tank may, depending on the brand you use, interfere with either the aerobic or anaerobic bacteria necessary to break down solids in your septic tank. I too thought that dumping into my septic after a week of careful boondocking would be the answer to my dumping problem but it seems I’m going to have to find a septic friendly odor neutralizing fluid first. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

BuckeyeTrish · 09-05-2020, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueGekko

BuckeyeTrish, there’s a veerrry small, black button mounted on a black cable connection plate, probably in the cabinet behind the TV. (That’s where mine is on my ‘19 24D). You may need to shine a flashlight on the plate to see the tiny button. That button has to be either clicked in or out (forget which position) to receive TV by cable or over the air. And, as mentioned before, to receive over the air TV, you have to do a scan every time you move the motorhome.

Thanks to everyone. I think we have done all the things you’ve mentioned. Our next try will be hooking up coax from a cable box directly to TV. If that works we know we have a cabling/wiring issue somewhere. We do get feed from the rooftop 360 antenna while we’re at home. I guess we’re too far in the boonies when we’re camping. Which brings up the next question...satellites. Does anyone use one. What do monthly fees run if we would install a satellite?

rprochnow · 09-05-2020, 04:39 PM

The antenna booster should be on only when using the rooftop antenna. When connected by cable, the antenna booster should be off.

In the electrical compartment, there may be two coax plugs - one for cable TV and the other for satellite TV. The sat TV signal will go to the sat TV plug that's in the electronics cabinet inside the RV. The cable TV signal should go to the TV, as long as the antenna booster is turned off.

This is something we tested when we got to the first RV park with cable TV after picking up our RV - to make sure the cable TV worked.

If you can't get the cable TV connection to the TV to work, then try using the sat TV connector on the outside and run a TV coax cable from the sat TV plug inside the View to the back of the TV. If that works, that could confirm you have a problem with the cable TV cabling between the outside electrical compartment and the TV.

If you have a long enough cable, you can also try to connect the TV's antenna input directly to the RV park's cable TV outlet - running the cable into the RV through a window.

NOTE when scanning on the TV, depending upon your TV model, you may have to indicate if you are looking for "air" or "cable" channels...

BuckeyeTrish · 09-05-2020, 05:11 PM

Thanks. I think My husband heard this could be the
problem with switched wires. He’s going to work on it when we get home. Hope we can eventually
get it figured out

Dmarcian · 09-05-2020, 08:18 PM

Buckeye you have to go to menu on your remote. Doing this from memory but I think the top menu item is a setting for cable or over air. Make sure it is set at cable and that your antenna booster is off. Your also have to do a channel search.

67Tiger · 09-10-2020, 07:36 PM

We bought a 24D and after looking at the 2020/21 we opted to engage in a long search for a low mileage 2019. We were fortunate to find one 600 miles from home exact color we wanted inside and 2,600 mi. It was clear that the fit and finish, attention to detail and the obvious cost cutting measures used in the 2020 was not going to be acceptable to me. I really wanted the newer MB body style and 6 speed automatic but it wasn't worth the trade off.

With that said I believe these rigs are well engineered, regardless of year, and any quirky issues or fit and finish problems are more a function of who assembled your RV. The paint on mine in the forward cab is questionable but Winnebago doesn't paint these rigs they farm that work out, and the QC in my opinion is HORRIBLE. In fact if I were running Winnebago I would make QC a top priority, I don't think they do as they are selling these guys as fast as they can build them, I've heard a 9 month back order on various models. I still believe Winnebago and Tiffin are the best built Class C you can buy.

My gas mileage, power and shifting have all improved as we've logged miles now we're at about 5,500 and it runs better than when we bought it. Our last trip 1,800 miles we averaged about 15 miles per gallon, I think that's pretty incredible.

Leaks, watch for poorly tightened water system fittings. I discovered a lose fitting on the backside of my Truma water heater, thank god I investigated the drip, drip, drip noise. No water damage as I caught the leak in time, but it's unnerving to say the least, water is not your RV's friend.

No doubt having some mechanical aptitude comes in handy along with a simple tool kit.......Enjoy that 24D

BlueGekko · 09-11-2020, 02:48 AM

We also have a ‘19 24D which we bought new. For the most part, very happy with fit and finish though closer attention could have been paid to some areas. Had to install flat, slide bolts on pantry drawers that, when full, would slide in and out on turns and sharp bends in the road. Still trying to adjust a few of the under counter drawer slides so they don’t slide out on turns. The plastic gooseneck drain under the kitchen sink separated during one trip and we had lots of water on the floor later when doing dishes. And, of course, the top opening instead of side opening basement storage doors are a continuing source of discomfort for a guy with two knee replacements. Thankfully, however, we’ve had no major problems. But I agree, QC is a problem and, unless closer attention is paid to quality over profit, Winnebago is likely to earn the same sketchy reputation as Thor. Still, given the dozen or so other brands we looked at before buying our 24D, we would do it again. And BTW, we averaged 17 mpg driving home to NH from TX where we bought it. If you are happy with 15 mpg, there are better days to come. ��

BigTexEd · 09-11-2020, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueGekko

BigTexEd, I read an article on one of the forums last week cautioning against dumping your black water into your septic. According to the author, the odor neutralizing fluid you flush into your black water tank may, depending on the brand you use, interfere with either the aerobic or anaerobic bacteria necessary to break down solids in your septic tank. I too thought that dumping into my septic after a week of careful boondocking would be the answer to my dumping problem but it seems I’m going to have to find a septic friendly odor neutralizing fluid first. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

You are correct. I called my septic guy to do this, and he sent me an article on it. Turns out, it’s not a good idea.