How to Access Faucet? Sawzall? 😩

DesertRatt · 12-04-2021, 01:10 PM

Fellow Winnebegans,

My faucet is leaking and we want to replace it with nicer unit. In the picture you can see the cabinet doesn't have much access. The door hatch is about 10" wide and sane with the drawers. The style between them is not removable and in fact there is an interior wall between drawers and cabinet door.

It couldn't be that unusual to need to get to the plumbing, but how?

I am capable of sawing the thing apart, but getting it back together will never look like original! That would be a pity. It's almost too well made!

Model: 2004 Ford Minnie Winnie 29K.

Thanks for any ideas!

DesertRatt · 12-04-2021, 03:50 PM

Forget the picture!

powercat_ras · 12-04-2021, 04:04 PM

In my Winnebago Vista the corner trims are just stapled on and can be removed. Then the outside panels are just 3/16" plywood that is also stapled / brad nailed into the cabinet's pine frame pieces.

They can be carefully removed and replaced if you need more access than you can get thru the door and by removing the drawers.

bigb · 12-04-2021, 04:56 PM

On my Via I couldn't fit in there either nor could I even see anything. I took pictures then rounded up tools and worked by feel, wasn't too bad really. Once you find the correct wrench sizes. A basin wrench is very handy for the lines. Before installing the new one you can find all the right tools then just do it. It helps if you have replaced home faucets before. At least you have more floor space than I did, I was wedged in there pretty tight.

DesertRatt · 12-04-2021, 06:01 PM

@powercat...
My cabinets are built just like home cabinets. There's no simple disassembly possible. The main rails and styles are all solid wood assembled before the top goes on. Removing the entire L-shaped gallery cabinet would be a huge job.

The rear side of cabinet shares a wall with the bathroom which is thin 3/16 luan. I'm considering cutting an access panel from the bath side. That could be done with a roto zip and then a new 1/4" larger "cover" could be made and mounted on the bath side wall.

@bigb...
While laying on the floor my arm won't even reach the place needed. I gave that a try. And I'm 73 with limited range in my elbows from severe arthritis.

Thanks fellas!

bigb · 12-04-2021, 06:05 PM

I couldn't reach it laying down either, I had to kneel in front of it with my face over the sink while reaching up underneath.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 12-05-2021, 03:39 AM

DesertRatt-

Would it work to cut an access panel under the flip-up counter extension? Same idea as cutting through from the bathroom side, but perhaps better hidden under the extension than on the bathroom wall.

DesertRatt · 12-05-2021, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

DesertRatt-

Would it work to cut an access panel under the flip-up counter extension? Same idea as cutting through from the bathroom side, but perhaps better hidden under the extension than on the bathroom wall.

Yup! That would also work. Although, I'd have to wiggle through the drawers guides. One of those paths will have to do. I'll do it when we get back from this trip.

BobC · 12-05-2021, 08:25 AM

bigb mentioned a basin wrench. Just to be clear, this is one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Ba...0127/304217758

Have you checked to see if the recessed panel on the front might be easy to remove? I'd bet that it's just stapled to the frame from the inside. You can probably tell by looking with a mirror or even with your cell phone on video. Gently probing with a thin putty knife might also tell you if it might be easy to remove.

DesertRatt · 12-05-2021, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

bigb mentioned a basin wrench. Just to be clear, this is one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Ba...0127/304217758

Have you checked to see if the recessed panel on the front might be easy to remove? I'd bet that it's just stapled to the frame from the inside. You can probably tell by looking with a mirror or even with your cell phone on video. Gently probing with a thin putty knife might also tell you if it might be easy to remove.

Hi Bob,
Yeah, THAT panel is stapled in. But, I'm not sure it will allow me to get under the sink to the back. The bottom of the sink is at about the bottom of that panel. Then, not sure how i would re-attach the panel. I'm going to noodle that one!

BobC · 12-05-2021, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DesertRatt

Hi Bob,
Yeah, THAT panel is stapled in. But, I'm not sure it will allow me to get under the sink to the back. The bottom of the sink is at about the bottom of that panel. Then, not sure how i would re-attach the panel. I'm going to noodle that one!

You're right, it probably wouldn't help much.

After thinking about this, I like your idea of putting in an access panel from the bathroom. It would give you perfect access, save a lot of work and wear and tear on your body and simplify future repairs or replacements.

Personally, I'd make up a nicely painted aluminum cover and it'll look like it was made that way. If a future buyer ever questioned it, just tell them how much work you've saved them. Go for it!

I don't see a 29K in the 2004 brochure. I only see a 29B and can see that its sink shares a wall with the bathroom.

https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/04Minniebro.pdf

DesertRatt · 12-05-2021, 05:45 PM

Bob,
I've never quite confirmed the model number. I bought it last year. In the wardrobe the factory sticker is clearly marked Model 29K. The manual I Received when i bought it is for a bunch of 2004 32-footers. But most of the info in the manual seems to match the equipment i have.

I'm going to try to scour up a proper manual.

Yes, a good size access panel from the bathroom side would be the ultimate access for all that plumbing. And, I think the water pump is also burried in there. Aluminum would be good, or I can make a luan trimmed out piece. We will be back home next week and i will tackle it.

BobC · 12-05-2021, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DesertRatt

Bob,
I've never quite confirmed the model number. I bought it last year. In the wardrobe the factory sticker is clearly marked Model 29K. The manual I Received when i bought it is for a bunch of 2004 32-footers. But most of the info in the manual seems to match the equipment i have.

I'm going to try to scour up a proper manual.

Winnebago's Operator Manuals aren't specific to a particular length, just the year and product line model. You may already have this in hard copy but here's a link to a downloadable 2004 Minnie Winnie manual:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...nnieWinnie.pdf

DesertRatt · 12-08-2021, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

Winnebago's Operator Manuals aren't specific to a particular length, just the year and product line model. You may already have this in hard copy but here's a link to a downloadable 2004 Minnie Winnie manual:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...nnieWinnie.pdf

I finally figured out the model number confusion. My Ford chassis is a 2004 by VIN#, but the house is a 2005 Minnie Model 29k as shown in this brochure: https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Imag...Minnie-bro.pdf

We do not have slides or optional top shelf.

BobC · 12-08-2021, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DesertRatt

I finally figured out the model number confusion. My Ford chassis is a 2004 by VIN#, but the house is a 2005 Minnie Model 29k as shown in this brochure: https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Imag...Minnie-bro.pdf

We do not have slides or optional top shelf.

Mystery solved. It can be confusing, I believe my Workhorse chassis is a 2001, while my MH is a 2002.

I should have mentioned earlier that you should check with Winnebago to see if there's anything buried in the wall where you want to cut the access hole. Better safe than sorry.