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Old 11-12-2020, 11:13 AM   #1
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Fiberglass is BAD. Help!

Newbie alert! This '91 Itasca Spirit is my first mh. I can see the fiberglass strands on the whole nose of the camper. Can we just use a good (define good please) roof coating? Do we need to sand, prime and use a gelcoat paint? Something in the middle? Thanks for taking me under your wings (slideouts?)!
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Old 11-12-2020, 01:44 PM   #2
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Based on the little bit of information from your post it's not possible to help much other than broad suggestions. Are the glass strands rough and loose? Or are they relatively smooth to the touch? You can spray gel coat, but an epoxy primer and top coat would probably give you the best results. Faster too. I would use an epoxy paint. I have the equipment and have done things like this on boats and on cars. You can use fillers to build the base up if it is too far worn down. Close up pictures would help. If the surface doesn't need much reconstruction you can use an epoxy primer and base coat clear coat too. I'm not sure what you mean when you ask about a roof coating. Anyway, I hope this helps.
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Old 11-12-2020, 02:00 PM   #3
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Thank you!

The strands are visible but not loose. As a former waterski maker, that tells me that the gelcoat is at least mostly gone. Those were done in a press, so the knowledge might not apply here. It's that newbie thing.

There was a partial can of Henry's roof coat in the rv when we got it. I'm guessing that's what was used for roof maintenance. There's so much information online, and it gets confusing to wade through.

Thanks again,

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Old 11-12-2020, 02:22 PM   #4
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You are welcome. I bet that you can make it look very good with a primer build and then a top coat of your choice. It doesn't sound very bad. I haven't used the two part spray cans but folks really do get good results with them and you can keep it simple and affordable. A pro would charge a bunch to paint that nose. Just saying.
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Old 11-12-2020, 04:30 PM   #5
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Topsail,

While I'm mostly concerned with making it sealed against the elements, it would be nice to have it look good. My husband says he would like to be able to use it in his lifetime. We're also dealing with roof damage from leaks and not always really fast with projects . Will the epoxy primer and paint weatherproof it? That would be perfect!

Thanks
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Old 11-12-2020, 05:35 PM   #6
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Topsail,

While I'm mostly concerned with making it sealed against the elements, it would be nice to have it look good. My husband says he would like to be able to use it in his lifetime. We're also dealing with roof damage from leaks and not always really fast with projects . Will the epoxy primer and paint weatherproof it? That would be perfect!

Thanks
It would appear that the previous owner had the Henry's roof coating material in an effort to seal some areas. Have you had a chance to really examine that roof and I mean every inch. If it's intact (no holes) then it may be the roof to sidewall seams and any roof fittings. You mention water damage. There's a lot to this question. It could lead to bigger problems and it is imperative to seal it asap. I know you know this but it can spread fast. Roof penetrations may need to be resealed and the joints caulked. You may look at eternabond too once you caulk up problem areas. The Winnebago site will have specific info for your RV. Do you know exactly which model you have and did your coach come with a Winnebago manual? We can offer some advice, we just need more information starting with the exact model description.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:26 PM   #7
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It has a swayback roof, well, a couple low spots that collected lakes. It's under cover now. We're pulling down the ceiling, checking it out. The plan is, when we can see more, to take pictures and go to an rv place and ask if whatever our proposed plan is, is doable or ludicrous. Or post them here! Please don't kick me out of here! ����
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:00 PM   #8
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As far as paint goes, I suggest looking for a good marine "topsides" paint. Fiberglass boats are in the sun all the time and the paints are well-suited to your needs. You should attend to this but it isn't something that needs immediate attention. As Topsail says, inspecting and re-sealing all of your roof penetrations is your top priority.

Your low spots aren't a problem in the short term either, unless there's also a crack or a fixture in the low spot. The water will puddle but will dry fairly quickly unless they're extremely deep. How deep are they? They could be the result of a long term leak that's damaged the substructure and are likely to be expensive to fix, especially if you pay someone to do it.

Whatever you do, don't use Henry's or any other kind of roof coating product.

I hope you have some decent DIY skills or have someone who can help you. Without them, any '91 vintage MH is going to be very expensive.
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:31 PM   #9
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Thanks, Bob!

We do have leaks. The water coming through is coffee colored. We may have trouble at the a/c and a vent. It's been covered for 2.5 days and the leaks have slowed down a lot.

My husband is tearing doen the ceiling to see how bad the damage is. The tentative plan is to get rid of all rot (okay, that's my plan. I think he would like to shore it up structurally with angle iron and seal it up) and rebuild. I like his angle iron idea. If we leave rot inside, won't it continue to get worse?

This is an Itasca Spirit IT32ORB. I'll go to the Winnibago website and see what comes up.

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 11-13-2020, 01:10 PM   #10
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UPDATE
Apparently the air conditioner is the culprit. So far, the wood on the "thermopanels" is wet but not rotted. Living in western Washington, we won't miss the a/c. So much relief! What sealants would be best? Do I start a new thread for the next problem?

You guys ROCK!
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Old 11-13-2020, 01:55 PM   #11
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UPDATE
Apparently the air conditioner is the culprit. So far, the wood on the "thermopanels" is wet but not rotted. Living in western Washington, we won't miss the a/c. So much relief! What sealants would be best? Do I start a new thread for the next problem?

You guys ROCK!
Manus 75 AM underneath the mounting flanges of the A/C and other fixtures.

Nuco 311 on top of the screws, flanges and around the edges. Some will suggest Dicor but Nuco is what Winnebago uses. Both are available on Amazon.

You'll have to remove every trace of any old sealant and clean well with acetone.

Many of us use Eternabond tape on top of the mounting flanges, 50% on top of the flange and 50% on the roof. The downside is that it's tough to remove and clean up.

Since you have a lot going on, you might want to cover the edges of all the mounting flanges with Gorilla Tape to stop any leaks until you can get to them. This is only a short-term fix. It's easier to remove and clean up than Eternabond.

I can't advise you on your plan for repairing the roof other than make sure you use aluminum not steel. You are correct in thinking that all rot must be removed. Once the Luan plywood is wet, it simply delaminates and disintegrates. There's a layer of Luan (about 1/8" thick) under the fiberglass roof, then a couple of inches of foam, then another layer of Luan, then your headliner.

You should watch some of AZ Expert's Youtube videos on Winnebago roof replacement ($$$$$) to get an idea of how they're put together.

https://www.youtube.com/user/azrvexpert/videos

While you're at it, run a strip of Eternabond if you have it, or Gorilla Tape if you don't, across the top of the black moulding of your windshield to forstall any windshield leaks (Winnebagos are notorious for them). There are many threads on Winnieowners about this.

Another thing to research (AZ Expert has some good videos on it) is the maintenance of the edges of your roof where they're inserted into the aluminum extrusion. This is critical since, if a roof edge comes loose, the entire fiberglass sheet can blow off. Properly sealing the front and rear roof caps is also covered by AZ Expert.



Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 11-15-2020, 01:24 PM   #12
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Any place that does boat repairs can add resin in this area to seal it for good. Then if the look is a concern a body shop can do a touch up of the paint. Second option is to apply a high end epoxy paint as this will also help with the sealing of the area.

I would first use a hose at high pressure to verify where the leak is actually originating. It is more likely to be coming from a seam on the roof. Dicor is a good sealant to use when the weather is warm.
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Old 11-15-2020, 01:51 PM   #13
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I would first use a hose at high pressure to verify where the leak is actually originating. It is more likely to be coming from a seam on the roof. Dicor is a good sealant to use when the weather is warm.
1. Unless things were different in 1991, there are no seams on a Winnebago fiberglass roof, it's one large piece.

2. Dicor is formulated for rubber roofs not fiberglass roofs. It won't cause damage and will work to some extent, but Winnebago recommends Nuco 311 (Winnebago part number 131264-03-03A). I realize Dicor is the most common and most advertised self-leveling sealant out there but I prefer to follow Winnebago's recommendations:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Sealant.htm

https://dicorproducts.com/product/se...-lap-sealants/

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Old 11-15-2020, 02:01 PM   #14
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If your sagging is in the area of your A/C, this may help. It's not about your model, but it is a 1991 Winnebago:

1991 Winnebago Warrior Roof Sag Solution - General Discussion - Toyota Motorhome Discussion Board
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Old 11-15-2020, 06:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemonade View Post
Thanks, Bob!

We do have leaks. The water coming through is coffee colored. We may have trouble at the a/c and a vent. It's been covered for 2.5 days and the leaks have slowed down a lot.

My husband is tearing doen the ceiling to see how bad the damage is. The tentative plan is to get rid of all rot (okay, that's my plan. I think he would like to shore it up structurally with angle iron and seal it up) and rebuild. I like his angle iron idea. If we leave rot inside, won't it continue to get worse?

This is an Itasca Spirit IT32ORB. I'll go to the Winnibago website and see what comes up.

Thanks for all the help!
The “rot” will stop rotting, absent its exposure to new moisture.
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Old 11-17-2020, 11:51 PM   #16
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Here's another AZ Expert video. It's a 2014 Mini Winnie but it may have some clues to the nature of your roof issues:



It's a new video so there may be another update soon showing the repair.
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Old 11-18-2020, 04:47 PM   #17
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Since your husband band has cut into the interior roof and found some wet if not rotted timbers, I would suggest that all wood which is bad be removed, and replaced with wood which is saturated with epoxy. No new holes thru the skin--try and replace from below (assuming your husband and you have the skills).

I would be considering one of the places in N. Mexico just South of the Border. Many have found good paint and repair for a fraction of the US price.

In the marine arena, I probably would go with a 2 part primer, Follow that with sanding and be sure that all of exposed glass strands are covered. Then tip and roll either one part: Brightside or EasyPoxy paint. The best will be a two part sprayed LP paint, covered with a clear coat on the front. If you are accomplished and good, then a two part paint like Interlux "Perfection" can be rolled and tipped. Almost as good as spray point if well done.

If the gel coat on the roof looks shot, then a white good marine paint (like one of the threes mentioned, on the top of the roof. )
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Old 11-19-2020, 06:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
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1. Unless things were different in 1991, there are no seams on a Winnebago fiberglass roof, it's one large piece.

2. Dicor is formulated for rubber roofs not fiberglass roofs. It won't cause damage and will work to some extent, but Winnebago recommends Nuco 311 (Winnebago part number 131264-03-03A). I realize Dicor is the most common and most advertised self-leveling sealant out there but I prefer to follow Winnebago's recommendations:

]
I just looked up sealants for Winnebago from your link and I see there are 6 different ones, and the one you mentioned isn't even one of them (unless you mis-typed). Some areas show two, for instance the roof top antennas show A & B types both. Looks like maybe the B is for the perimeter of the device and the A for the cable penetrations? Thanks for the info about Dicor, I was about to order some. My roof has suffered but I don't think it is as bad as the OP, no leaks just chalky. Have to decide what to do. Watching this thread to learn more.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Winnie Sealants.pdf (1,022.1 KB, 31 views)
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Old 11-19-2020, 07:33 PM   #19
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I just looked up sealants for Winnebago from your link and I see there are 6 different ones, and the one you mentioned isn't even one of them (unless you mis-typed). Some areas show two, for instance the roof top antennas show A & B types both. Looks like maybe the B is for the perimeter of the device and the A for the cable penetrations? Thanks for the info about Dicor, I was about to order some. My roof has suffered but I don't think it is as bad as the OP, no leaks just chalky. Have to decide what to do. Watching this thread to learn more.
131264-03-03A - Black Nuco 311
131264-03-01A - White Nuco 311

Both of these are "self-leveling" for the top of the fixture to seal the screw holes and edges.

The other listed sealants are usually for underneath the fixture and have more of an adhesive property.

Other sealants are intended for vertical surfaces, etc.

This may help sort things out:

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...20Sealants.pdf
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Old 11-20-2020, 12:51 PM   #20
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Based on the little bit of information from your post it's not possible to help much other than broad suggestions. Are the glass strands rough and loose? Or are they relatively smooth to the touch? You can spray gel coat, but an epoxy primer and top coat would probably give you the best results. Faster too. I would use an epoxy paint. I have the equipment and have done things like this on boats and on cars. You can use fillers to build the base up if it is too far worn down. Close up pictures would help. If the surface doesn't need much reconstruction you can use an epoxy primer and base coat clear coat too. I'm not sure what you mean when you ask about a roof coating. Anyway, I hope this helps.
I read that an epoxy paint should be protected from the sun as the UV will deteriorate it. What do you think of the Dicor 100% acrylic resin coating to put on top of the epoxy paint finish, or what about just the Dicor as the only coating?

Also, how can one tell if the fiberglass in question is epoxy reinforced or polyester based?
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