Fiberglass is BAD. Help!

[BobC]

Originally Posted by bigb

I read that an epoxy paint should be protected from the sun as the UV will deteriorate it. What do you think of the Dicor 100% acrylic resin coating to put on top of the epoxy paint finish, or what about just the Dicor as the only coating?

Also, how can one tell if the fiberglass in question is epoxy reinforced or polyester based?

If you get a marine epoxy paint intended for boats, UV exposure won't be a problem. The type of fiberglass won't matter in terms of the paint.

Here's just one example:

https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Mar...mcd_asin_0_img

[bigb]

Originally Posted by BobC

If you get a marine epoxy paint intended for boats, UV exposure won't be a problem. The type of fiberglass won't matter in terms of the paint.

Here's just one example:

https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Mar...mcd_asin_0_img

That looks like good stuff but I am not so sure it is an epoxy. Epoxy by definition uses a catalyst.

[BobC]

Sorry, I meant to link to the two-part polyurethane paint (aka "epoxy paint"). In painting boat "topsides", there are three types of paint that are commonly used: traditional paint, two-part polyurethane and one-part polyurethane. The latter is recommended for DIYers.

Here are some resources that may help. As usual, surface preparation is important.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co.../Topside-Paint

https://www.westmarine.com/topside-paint

https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2017...-paint-job.asp

[NeilV]

In the 1990's Winnebago roof construction of the Spirit, which is a Class A motor home, was Laminated Fiberglass so tear out on those stress skin panels should not be done without giving things careful consideration first. One should remove the interior flanges around the AC units and roof vents to begin the inspection process as those would be the two main areas where the outer stress panel comprised of 1/8 to 1/4" plywood under the fiberglass sheet would be first impacted. You should also call Winnebago Customer Support on the Phone and discuss the issues you are facing and they will usually be very happy to send you Digital Measured Drawings or where the roof structure is located which in 1991 may likely be Aluminum so Angle Iron/Steel would be a downgrade and a step backwards. The interior plywood layer behind the ceiling covering is the last layer of the structural sandwich of the roof and a critical component in making it strong as is the foam panel between it and the outer plywood stress skin and fiberglass sheeting so you would want to remove as little of that sandwich as possible to make any repairs.

Since this is the Class C forum please clarify whether we are discussing an Itasca Spirit 23EC/30EU Class A which have radiused roofs or one of the Class C coaches such as the Micro Mini Spirit on the Toyota Pickup Truck Chassis or the Mini Spirit on the Full Sized Cargo Van Chassis as those flat roof models will be constructed differently from the two Itasca Spirits especially as far as the roofs and front caps are concerned.

On the Spirit front top cap above the windshield along with the Micro Mini Spirit and Mini Spirit front top cap on the sleeper area over the cab they can be painted with a marine grade primer/filler and refinished with topsides paint designed for application on fiberglass. Tear out on the Micro Mini Spirit and Mini Spirit should also be held off until after inspection around the removed inside flanges and the phone call to the Winnebago Support Line to get the measured drawings and other construction details so you do not compromise any stress skin construction features. The only tear out that should be considered before calling would be to remove any sagging foam rubber backed headliner material if its so badly deteriorated that it can't be put back in place with upholstery adhesive.

[bigb]

Originally Posted by BobC

Sorry, I meant to link to the two-part polyurethane paint (aka "epoxy paint"). In painting boat "topsides", there are three types of paint that are commonly used: traditional paint, two-part polyurethane and one-part polyurethane. The latter is recommended for DIYers.

Here are some resources that may help. As usual, surface preparation is important.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co.../Topside-Paint

https://www.westmarine.com/topside-paint

https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2017...-paint-job.asp

Thanks for the info. I would consider myself "advanced DIY". I have painted about 20 cars and trucks and still have my Devilbiss siphon feed spray gun. I will look over the links and stay tuned to see what the OP decides to do.

[Lemonade]

Thank you so much for all the help!

We're focused on the sleeping loft right now so we'll have a reliable base for when it's ceiling time.

We're putting in a queen size bed with a folding foot, perpendicular to the normal setup. There's no appeal to clambering over each other to get in and out of bed. We have the woodworking skills. Our first mission is to put plywood down from the dinette to the I-beam. I'll look it up, but we tentatively picked a Titebond adhesive meant for installing shower stalls for the plywood to outer skin lamination. If anyone has any suggestions on how best to go about this, they will be appreciated!

Should I have separate threads for the roof, loft area and floor? Yes, the floor is feeling iffy. And that's why I picked "Lemonade". There are way more projects than we thought.

Thanks again!

[Lemonade]

Originally Posted by NeilV

In the 1990's Winnebago roof construction of the Spirit, which is a Class A motor home, was Laminated Fiberglass so tear out on those stress skin panels should not be done without giving things careful consideration first. One should remove the interior flanges around the AC units and roof vents to begin the inspection process as those would be the two main areas where the outer stress panel comprised of 1/8 to 1/4" plywood under the fiberglass sheet would be first impacted. You should also call Winnebago Customer Support on the Phone and discuss the issues you are facing and they will usually be very happy to send you Digital Measured Drawings or where the roof structure is located which in 1991 may likely be Aluminum so Angle Iron/Steel would be a downgrade and a step backwards. The interior plywood layer behind the ceiling covering is the last layer of the structural sandwich of the roof and a critical component in making it strong as is the foam panel between it and the outer plywood stress skin and fiberglass sheeting so you would want to remove as little of that sandwich as possible to make any repairs.

Since this is the Class C forum please clarify whether we are discussing an Itasca Spirit 23EC/30EU Class A which have radiused roofs or one of the Class C coaches such as the Micro Mini Spirit on the Toyota Pickup Truck Chassis or the Mini Spirit on the Full Sized Cargo Van Chassis as those flat roof models will be constructed differently from the two Itasca Spirits especially as far as the roofs and front caps are concerned.

On the Spirit front top cap above the windshield along with the Micro Mini Spirit and Mini Spirit front top cap on the sleeper area over the cab they can be painted with a marine grade primer/filler and refinished with topsides paint designed for application on fiberglass. Tear out on the Micro Mini Spirit and Mini Spirit should also be held off until after inspection around the removed inside flanges and the phone call to the Winnebago Support Line to get the measured drawings and other construction details so you do not compromise any stress skin construction features. The only tear out that should be considered before calling would be to remove any sagging foam rubber backed headliner material if its so badly deteriorated that it can't be put back in place with upholstery adhesive.

Thank you for all the information. As to the model, it's an Itasca Spirit IT320RB. I haven't a clue what the 3 stands for, but it's 20' long with a rear bath. An unfinished Toyota truck built in 4/90 was topped by the class c in 6/90. It says Itasca on all 4 sides, and Spirit on the cab door. I'm sorry if I referred to it incorrectly. What would be correct and not confusing? Thanks again, Lemonade

[Lemonade]

Originally Posted by bigb

Thanks for the info. I would consider myself "advanced DIY". I have painted about 20 cars and trucks and still have my Devilbiss siphon feed spray gun. I will look over the links and stay tuned to see what the OP decides to do.

I'm very nervous about painting. It must be much more durable than a roof coating, but I've never painted a car or boat. There are many places that need taping, and the edge trim needs help. Put that together with the sleeping loft and possibly the floor, and it's a bit overwhelming to throw a whole new learning curve into the mix. If we seal everything, can we paint when this first flurry of fix-it has been conquered and we've had a chance to use it?
Thanks