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07-17-2021, 10:30 AM
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#21
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backtrack15
I’m curious if you tried using tape to change the bars from U to D and measured the air flow? Regardless, thanks for the interesting tip regarding the U shape.
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I didn’t do that because in effect you would have a flat surface you were forcing air over. Kind of like a bunch of class A’s going down the freeway with perfectly flat fronts. The airflow would be pretty poor.
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07-17-2021, 10:49 AM
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#22
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fotoguzzi
Pictures of the u shape things would be more than nice to understand where to cut etc.. pics anyone?
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Found some!
Existing bars. Inside view after cutting out and taping in screen. Outside view.
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07-17-2021, 04:17 PM
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#23
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fotoguzzi
Pictures of the u shape things would be more than nice to understand where to cut etc.. pics anyone?
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Found some. Before. Fins cut out. Screen attached. Outside view.
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07-17-2021, 04:18 PM
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#24
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 122
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Had a little trouble posting pictures
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07-18-2021, 02:25 AM
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#25
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Crawfordville Florida
Posts: 182
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Well Harley, I was going to cut mine and install screen. But I found mine is completely different. The cap is solid with no openings. On the bottom underneath the cap in the metal that the cap is fastened to has large holes for air. The holes are on both sides and the end. I don't know if this is the most efficient or not. I see no way to improve it.
I installed my run capacitor replacement yesterday and the unit is up and running now.
__________________
I have no Idea!
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07-18-2021, 06:21 AM
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#26
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Scandia, Minnesota
Posts: 30
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Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by 09 harley
Had a little trouble posting pictures
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Thankyou for posting the pics. Did you just do the rear? It looks like the sides are left original?
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07-18-2021, 09:34 AM
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#27
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
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09 harley.,
I don't see any reason that modification wouldn't be more efficient at moving air. Thanks for sharing that tip! Curious though why you think screen with larger openings would not work as well as the smaller screen openings? Larger openings would seem to be logical, especially based on your example. Maybe the system needs at least some resistance to function?
__________________
2014 Itasca Meridian 34B
Cummins 340HP
2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk
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07-18-2021, 09:42 AM
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#28
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Land of calenture (TX)
Posts: 679
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Now that I’ve seen the photos, I agree the outlet design was pretty restrictive. I don’t think the “bar density” is quite as high on my AC. I’ll definitely take a look next time I’m on the roof.
__________________
The most insidious lies are the ones we really want to believe - please avoid partisan news.
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07-18-2021, 10:01 AM
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#29
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R2D2
09 harley.,
I don't see any reason that modification wouldn't be more efficient at moving air. Thanks for sharing that tip! Curious though why you think screen with larger openings would not work as well as the smaller screen openings? Larger openings would seem to be logical, especially based on your example. Maybe the system needs at least some resistance to function?
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My understanding is that the larger cross sectional density of the larger wore size caused increased turbulence. A round surface creates more as the size increases. If the round surface had a kamm rear design that would help, but it doesn’t. A smaller size works better in most cases. When you are at the hardware store next time. Try blowing on different screens and you will be surprised by the blow back you feel. Don’t do this for too long a time because someone usually calls the men in white to come take you away.
Also the side vents on my unit are the intake. I could probably increase this flow by filling the bars in. I made a decision to just accept this.
For anyone who hasn’t used an anemometer try to find one to play with. Lots of HVAC guys have them for measuring air flow when adjusting the flow from registers.
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07-18-2021, 12:12 PM
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#30
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09 harley
My understanding is that the larger cross sectional density of the larger wore size caused increased turbulence. A round surface creates more as the size increases. If the round surface had a kamm rear design that would help, but it doesn’t. A smaller size works better in most cases. When you are at the hardware store next time. Try blowing on different screens and you will be surprised by the blow back you feel. Don’t do this for too long a time because someone usually calls the men in white to come take you away.
Also the side vents on my unit are the intake. I could probably increase this flow by filling the bars in. I made a decision to just accept this.
For anyone who hasn’t used an anemometer try to find one to play with. Lots of HVAC guys have them for measuring air flow when adjusting the flow from registers.
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I have some experience with aerodynamics, so I get that.
After giving this more thought, is the screen even necessary? I assume there is no screen there to begin with (no ladder, so I can't verify). What if you just removed the bars? Obviously the screen is for bugs, but if they can get in anyway, does it matter?
__________________
2014 Itasca Meridian 34B
Cummins 340HP
2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk
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07-18-2021, 01:09 PM
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#31
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Scandia, Minnesota
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R2D2
I have some experience with aerodynamics, so I get that.
After giving this more thought, is the screen even necessary? I assume there is no screen there to begin with (no ladder, so I can't verify). What if you just removed the bars? Obviously the screen is for bugs, but if they can get in anyway, does it matter?
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Yeah, do I really need a screen?
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