Propane solenoid on valve

[TravatoJohn]

Travato propane tank has a shut off below which consists of a solenoid attached to the shut off valve. I removed the wire clip and not getting 12 volts to it by testing with volt meter. Both switches are on. No propane. Tank is full. Propane detector is working. There is a reset switch somewhere as no fuse controls the solenoid power. Any help would be appreciated. Travato John

[Morich]

Step one to giving good info, is getting good info on the question, so exactly which RV do you have since they have most likely been made in different models and different years?

[TravatoJohn]

My unit is a2017 Winnebago Travato Model K..Thanks, john

[Morich]

Thanks for that info. My problem was that I was not able to spot the solenoid on several drawings so wanted to cut the chase----but I still don't see it, so maybe I don't need to know the location as I did find a clue on the fuse location which may be more direct to start. Have you checked fuses or need the location?
I did some snips of drawings that might help if not been there yet.
These are snips of the distribution panel and the fuse which feeds the LP detector. One thought is that a blown fuse might make it think there was a leak and not allow gas flow??
Maybe as a start, check fuse 7? While there, always good to look at the others as well as there may be more than one involved in gas flow???
Looking at the wiring ID chart, a search shows "LP" as found in 19 locations so maybe we can avoid that big bug hunt!
If not found the panel, it looks like lower right side, down by converter?
Fuse 7 being a 5 amp as the main one to check????
See if this might get you going?

[Morich]

Bits of info that may be correct but bare checking are the wire ID that should be stamped on the wire side as the example shows.

Does it seem the LP level sender is working correctly? That cuts out lots of the wire ID question.

We don't get the best wiring drawings for the newer units, so there is a bit of guessing in this as I tied it together using the ID chart here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

AND that makes it really open to mistakes, so if you find different, go with what you see!

What I might expect to find is the power comes off before the coach disconnect switch, so that it stays hot all the time (parasitic drain?) on 16 gauge yellow wire labeled GJ to detector, then UH to valve and UJ to switch where it likely meets ground to close the circuit.

[TravatoJohn]

Thanks for your input. I called Winnebago and they still use the lead and fuse from the detector inside. I have power to the inside switch which I am replacing. I will be checking the power to the outside switch tonight when cooler and go from there. That switch will be harder to replace it appears. I’ll update then. Thanks again, john

[Morich]

Sounds like a move in the right direction. One thought to avoid changing the switch if it is hard, is to try finding a way to wire around the switch. If it requires a path through the switch and you can see a way to connect a wire across the one going in and the one feeding out, that should make the solenoid open, if the switch is the problem. If it doesn't change anything, then it says that switch is good.

Another way to look for problems at the switch is to test for voltage on the side going into as well as the side leading out of the switch, if I am understanding how you are testing.

Since the solenoid/Safety valve is a pretty simple item that just moves to open and close the gas line, if you can get to the wires to it, just adding a wire from some source like the cigarette lighter to each side of the solenoid itself should make it open or close as you touch or remove the wires?

What I am suggesting is this, in other words. If you have tested with a meter and find ground at point "B", then adding 12volt battery at "A" should make the solenoid pop open and gas flow if the solenoid is working as it should.
OR, if you find you have power at "A" when you have the switches closed but not finding ground at be, try adding a ground there and the solenoid moving tells you that part is good and you need to look for some other part not getting the battery and ground to the solenoid to let it work.


One of the faults with not having a real wiring schematic on the newer (after 2010!) is that we are left with more guessing than if we had the real info.

[TravatoJohn]

I determined that outside lower switch was corroded after removing. Wires also starting to corrode. 12 volt now present on cleaned wire. Hooked wires together and heard solenoid open. Gas flowing.
Thank you Monica for your detailed help. Found a replacement switch on West Marine for 18.00. Travato John