Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C, Install in ERA 70a

[Roadmaster]

I am considering installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C, in my 2017 ERA 70a.


After calling Winnebago I got the impressions there were no surge or low voltage protection on this unit. I have always a Progressive Industry unit hard wired in all my RV's with great results. With that said now all I need to do is find the right spot for it.


Looking in the back drivers side there are 2 box style covers that look as though they could be removed and a EMS-HW30C installed inside the one that mounts directly to the left rear quarter inside.


Before I re-invent the wheel I wanted to make sure someone else has not already done this and can share their experiences. Some might say is use the one that plugs in at the pole but I have had friends that have had their expensive units snagged.

[Winterbagoal]

I bought the EMS-PT30X portable, and an extra 25' 30A shore power cord.
I plug the motorhome's hardwired shore power cord into the PT30X, and leave it inside the lockable electrical compartment, and then run the extra 30A cord from it, to the c/g power pedestal. Less chance of theft, and no drilling required. Looks like a 30A shore power cord to a passerby.

[Roadmaster]

Excellent, talk about thinking outside the box! Good move I had a friend that had ta high end 50a plug in style at the pedestal. One night while he was out when he came back it was gone and of course no one saw anything, and $300 bucks down the drain.



This weekend I plan on pulling the cover off that box and see what my options are. Unfortunately on the ERA 70a's there are no external lockable compartments so unfortunately your elegant solution wont work for me I have to say it's really a neat idea!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

I bought the EMS-PT30X portable, and an extra 25' 30A shore power cord.
I plug the motorhome's hardwired shore power cord into the PT30X, and leave it inside the lockable electrical compartment, and then run the extra 30A cord from it, to the c/g power pedestal. Less chance of theft, and no drilling required. Looks like a 30A shore power cord to a passerby.

I did similar...

I bought a 6' 50 amp shorepower cord and hardwired to my ATS with the male end on the opposite side. I then put a female connector on my previous hardwired end of my 25' 50 amp shorepower cord. I then plugged my Southwire Bluetooth Portable 34951 into male end of short cord (6ft) and the female end of (25') shore power cord into male end of the same Southwire Bluetooth Portable 34951.

I can now easily rollup an unplugged 25' shorepower cord and put in Electrical bay. All of the above is stored and locked in my electrical bay.

Additionally, I have the Southwire 50amp 44270 portable that I always plug into any pedestal first stand alone. Once all is verified; I then connect to my shorepower cord that is connected to my expensive Southwire Bluetooth Portable 34951. I actually have protection for my protection I don't worry about anyone stealing the 44270, but at times I have placed a lock on the Campsite pedestal if it were available. I keep a lock in RV just in case.


I just recently got word from Southwire that my expensive Southwire Bluetooth Portable 34951 has a firmware upgrade. If I send it back, they will upgrade at no charge. It will allow my unit to connect with Southwire Phone app. Today I have two wireless display units, one inside RV on wall next to generator AGS and the other on inside door of Electrical bay.

So in my case hardwired is not required.

[RV-Travelers]

I bought a Hughes Autoformer 30A portable for use with our 2016 ERA 70A. Think it's this one:

https://hughesautoformers.com/product/pwd30-epo/

I also bought the locking cable, sort of like a bicycle locking cable with a keyed lock. If the pedestal has a hole / slot for a cable I can lock it to it. I'm pretty sure it won't stop someone that's determined and has a pair of bolt cutters, but it will likely stop a crime of opportunity.

It has a Bluetooth interface and you can connect to it from a phone / tablet and monitor the voltage and current draw.

One nice thing about some of the Hughes devices, including the one I bought, is they have a user-replaceable surge module. So if the surge module is toasted, you can order another one for $35 and have a working unit again. Much cheaper than buying an entire new unit. I've been tempted to buy one and have it on hand when we are traveling so I can replace it if necessary, but we already have a spare (SurgeGuard) surge protector onboard. If we didn't, I'd buy the module and keep it onboard.

https://hughesautoformers.com/produc...ule-pwd30-epo/

I purchased our Hughes Autoformer almost exactly 2 years ago, and so far haven't had any issues with it.

BTW, one thing I always do is test the pedestal power with a meter prior to plugging the surge suppressor into it.

I like the Klein Tools RT250 receptacle tester for checking power. I plug it into the 110V receptacle, and also into the 30A receptacle with an adapter.

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/e...cle-tester-lcd

[Roadmaster]

I have always used one of those power checkers in the past. On a prior unit before I got around to installing a permanent we were staying at the Rincon Country West RV park in Tuson.

Unfortunately one day during our stay we were out and they were dicking around with the park power feed that toasted a control board in my Dometic fridge and of course when I asked them to re-emberse me for the damage they told me to pound sand.

Sad part about it is I had a brand new Progressive unit I had yet to install, stupid me and I paid the price, thank goodness, the damage could have been much worse like frying 2 AC units and other expensive electronics.

Anyway, long story shortened, I have pulled the inside storage area covers on the drivers side and found a good spot for an inline 30amp progressive unit with remote display and control.

It will take a little work to shoehorn it in the 70a but once its in we will put the power issue to rest.

I will still always use my tester before plugging into any power pedestal as added insurance.

[Roadmaster]

It would be nice to know the routing of the 110v 30amp wiring as it comes into the coach. I know the wiring come into the side at the coach at the 30amp connectors then looks as though it runs down and possibly under the water heater/furnace then runs from there. I imagine it heads over to the transfer switch which I have yet to find on my 70a.

Seems to me this would be the optimum and an easiest spot to install the EMS-HW30C. I could simply install it inline and run the incoming feed through it then mount the remote monitor anywhere it is convenient and easy to see.

Perhaps a call to Winnebago might shed some light on the transfer switch location, I have a feeling it may be under the drivers side rear bed close to the Truma Combi. Lord knows nowhere in the documents does it show where it is hiding. We shall see...

One other thing I wanted to mention, on a 70A you usually have to remove the drivers side bed access compartment to set the valves when you winterize/unwinterize.

While working on this project I removed the rear driver side box covers and found out those valves are literally right behind the right most cover. I plan on purchasing a removable snap on access cover that can easily be removed to access those valves.

This will save me a lot of time and effort when the season is over and its time to winterize the coach. I will post up some pictures when its done.

[Roadmaster]

For those wanting to go the same route here's an update, for the 170A remove the passenger side bed platform. Inside that compartment you will find the transfer switch. Simply remove the cover and move the incoming romex feed wires and move them to the input of the Progressive EMS-HW30c. Using some #10 romex take the output of the HW30C and run that to the input of the transfer switch.
Replace the cover on the transfer switch and mount the HW30c. I mounted it directly above the transfer switch on the side of the bed support.
Run the remote display up under and remove the panel from the inside of the clothes close. This will provide you access to the control center area. Find a convenient place for the remote display, drill a hold to pass the RJ11 connector thru and mount the remote. Button everything up and your done.
Whats really nice is you don't have to find storage for the external surge supressor or worry about someone stealing it. You can easily look up and see your incoming voltage, HZ, amperage draw, and overall health status of power. Incase of an emergency the remote will also allow you to bypass the unit and connect thru to the power source and override all protection.
Time and money well spent. I will update this thread later with some pictures.

[RV-Travelers]

Originally Posted by Roadmaster

For those wanting to go the same route here's an update, for the 170A remove the passenger side bed platform. Inside that compartment you will find the transfer switch. Simply remove the cover and move the incoming romex feed wires and move them to the input of the Progressive EMS-HW30c. Using some #10 romex take the output of the HW30C and run that to the input of the transfer switch.
Replace the cover on the transfer switch and mount the HW30c. I mounted it directly above the transfer switch on the side of the bed support.
Run the remote display up under and remove the panel from the inside of the clothes close. This will provide you access to the control center area. Find a convenient place for the remote display, drill a hold to pass the RJ11 connector thru and mount the remote. Button everything up and your done.
Whats really nice is you don't have to find storage for the external surge supressor or worry about someone stealing it. You can easily look up and see your incoming voltage, HZ, amperage draw, and overall health status of power. Incase of an emergency the remote will also allow you to bypass the unit and connect thru to the power source and override all protection.
Time and money well spent. I will update this thread later with some pictures.

Nicely done! Kind of wishing we had gone that route, not that we were aware of that being an option at the time we bought our external suppressor.