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Old 11-19-2020, 01:54 PM   #21
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Thanks Richard. Sure wish I could do these things myself. I hate getting old but sure love RVing. I have a shop nearby that I trust for small repairs on the coach but was told I have to take my MH to a certified Mercedes mechanic for anything on the chassis. I hated being in a truck stop in Nevada when the tires blew out so had to trust them and since talking to others, they have a good reputation. (Roadrunner Tire and Alignment in Mesquite, NV) This forum has helped me a lot and I appreciate your advice.
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Old 11-19-2020, 04:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdie2017 View Post
Thanks Richard. Sure wish I could do these things myself. I hate getting old but sure love RVing. I have a shop nearby that I trust for small repairs on the coach but was told I have to take my MH to a certified Mercedes mechanic for anything on the chassis. I hated being in a truck stop in Nevada when the tires blew out so had to trust them and since talking to others, they have a good reputation. (Roadrunner Tire and Alignment in Mesquite, NV) This forum has helped me a lot and I appreciate your advice.
You might consider an after market TPMS, hard to know when those inside duals are low unless you check at every stop. Was there any damage to the coach when they blew out? Wouldn't hurt to hit the Cat Scales either to make sure you are not overloaded, the Via doesn't have a lot of payload, right around 1,000 lbs which includes driver, passengers and fuel.
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Old 11-20-2020, 08:27 AM   #23
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I’ll do that. I’ve often wondered what the weight is that I’m carrying, plus it seems everything is on the drivers side, bathroom, tanks, couch, etc. Kitchen is on the passenger side. I just installed a bike rack for an electric bike. When I get the VIA back from the dealer, with the new shock, I’ll find a scale and check it out.
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Old 11-20-2020, 10:02 AM   #24
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Corner weights are good to do on a MH and can be done on scales that have a level approach to the sides, but if there are trucks waiting may take several passes as to not hold up the commercial trucks. For your first weigh if you want to keep it simple just do axles, pull up with front axle on one scale and rear on the other then add a 10% factor to allow for uneven side to side loading. You can get a Cat Scale app on your phone and do it all without ever getting out of the rig. Escapees RV club also offers weighing events around the country where they do the corners. Motorhomes are especially known for being loaded unevenly so corner weights are always best if you can do it.

PS The Cat Scale in Tucson (I-10 exit 268) has plenty of room off to the right side and level, you can weigh the whole rig first, then re-weigh just the left side then do the math for corner weights.

https://rvlife.com/overweight-rvs-are-a-bad-idea/
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Old 11-22-2020, 10:07 PM   #25
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Hey BigB will try door fixes. Sounds like a great idea I have no idea why Winnebago did not do
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Old 11-26-2020, 06:17 PM   #26
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More rattle fixes

Been working on all the rattles in the cab, pulled the 3 piece Winnebago dash out first, then put a sound deadening product (similar to Dynamat but cheaper) on the fiberglass panel over the engine, under the two Sprinter upper dash pieces (4 screws each then slide slightly back toward windshield to dis-engage hooks) and a strip of 3/8" round foam under the edge that vibrates against the lower Sprinter dash. More foam under the edge of the speaker grill (new speaker on order) and some steel brackets to hold the lower Sprinter dash to the Sprinter windshield mounting area. They had just put a strip of tape there but it vibrates since there is no Sprinter windshield to hold it down, the brackets fixed it right up, just fasten with self tapping sheet metal screws right into the steel next to the big rubber windshield seal. When you remove the 3 piece upper dash be aware that the defrost vent grills just unscrew, releasing from the duct on the back side, took me a while to figure that out.
I also put a couple pieces of electrician's rubber tape on the bottom of where the center piece between the radio speaker grill and the center pocket is as that was another source of vibration. Also the top of my center dash pocket was always crooked, higher on the right and when I removed it I saw that they had ran the satellite/ipod wires in the way so the pocket could not sit all the way down on that side. a quick re-threading of the wires under the plastic part instead of over it fixed that.

Next to the fuse box area under the dash where the passenger door module is just crammed in there (since there is no place to mount it on the motorhome and we don't have a passenger door) and bounces around and rattles against the plastic dash and gray fuse box enclosure, wrapped it in a piece of foam and zip tied it. The fuse box assembly itself moves around and bumps against the large, plastic covered wire harness that pops up on the left side of the dash, drops down the speaker tunnel and into the driver's door. For that I took some 3/4" foam pipe insulation and forced it over the wire bundle, wedging it in between the bundle and the fuse box. This is mostly by feel as you can't really see it even if you remove the panel with the head light switch and the gray cover under it, you just have to sit on the driver's step and reach up there and feel around for it.

Took it for a drive and there was still loud, annoying rattles from the A and B pillars. The A pillars only have one screw apiece in them and the bottom is held in place by a piece of weatherstripping that falls down. Even when intact the pillar trims are so big and thin that they make perfect sound amplifiers any time you hit a bump and they move. I re-glued the foam weatherstrip with 3M 77 and lined the insides of all 4 with more Dynamat look-alike. It did a great job of deadening the sound of the cheap, thin plastic rattling around.

When I re-install the 3 piece Winnebago dash I will make sure the lower ends of the pillar trims are held tight by the side pieces, if not I will add more weatherstripping.

A Chassis Ear helped locate some of the noises under the dash, plus an assistant but it's totally doable without one (the chassis ear I mean).

see next post for more pics
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Old 11-26-2020, 06:19 PM   #27
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remaining pics showing rubber tape on center piece, pillar sound deadening and Chassis Ear. Note the A pillars only have one screw holding them in place, the bottom is held in by the weatherstripping on the dash panel.
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Old 11-26-2020, 06:32 PM   #28
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While the upper dash is out it's a great time to install USB charge ports. I went with the ones that have on/off switches since the fuse box under the dash is always live. There's 3 empty spaces on the bottom right where you can plug in an add-a-fuse and there's a huge space under the upper dash panels to run wire then just drop it down where the mirror switch is. If you want switched power you will have to get a wire to the fuse box in the driver's seat.
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Old Yesterday, 09:41 AM   #29
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You have been BUSY!! Thank you for posting!!
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