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Old 04-23-2018, 09:10 AM   #121
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I just replaced my carpet (Suncruiser 35U) with 19.75" square commercial carpet tiles that are about 1/4" thick (about the same thickness of LVT planking). I used double sided carpet tape to facilitate removal in case I had a problem with my methods.

In doing so, I removed all the old carpet and pad that was on top of the wooden "ramp" by pulling the carpet and removing or cutting the staples as necessary with a flat, sharpened piece of metal (an old framing square) and hammer. This wasn't a fun job.

In retrospect, I wish that I hadn't done this and had just butted the new carpet up against the old carpet after cutting it at the edge of the extended slide, covering the joint with a metal transition strip. That would have preserved the pre-existing height of the ramp so everything was the same when the slide was extended. All that would be visible would be the color matched transition strip.

What I did do was to screw down several 1' x 4" x 1/2" pieces of wood (with a 45 degree bevel on the end facing the ramp) for the slide to ride up on as it was retracted. This raised the inside edge of the slide enough for me to slide the new carpet tile over the ramp. As I moved down the length of the slide, I removed the boards one at a time if they interfered with my inserting the new carpet. I finished it off with a metal transition strip to minimize the tendency for the carpet to be pushed away from the ramp as the slide was retracted (staples would work as well).

So far, everything works fine. My only concern is that the pre-existing ramp + the new carpet tile isn't as high as the old carpet/pad and ramp so the inside edge of the slide isn't being lifted as much when extended. As I understand this, the purpose of the ramp is to lift the inside edge of the slide, cocking the slide outward to tighten the top weather seal.

If I have a problem, I've noticed that the ramp is accessible from the outside, behind the bottom, exterior weather stripping, and, when the slide is retracted a few inches, all the weight is off the ramp. This would enable me to slip some strips of adhesive coated carpet tile under what I've already installed to raise the ramp height by another 1/4", which should be enough.

Note that this same technique would work with vinyl except I didn't need to replace the existing slide bar.

In the bedroom, I left the old carpet in place under the bed and slide since it isn't visible.
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Old 09-29-2019, 06:10 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornnutz View Post
I have a 2003 Winnebago Adventurer 35U.
I just finished doing my floor. I used Karndean 16" Vinyl tiles squares. It is a glue down tile. I removed all my carpet and other vinyl. I did not remove the ramp, just the carpet.
I DID NOT remove the slideout. What I did may not be in the service manuals, but it did what I needed it to do. I ran the slide all the way out, then measured the distance between the slideout flange and the side wall and then cut 2 2X4's 6" shorter. I then used 2 short pieces of 2X4 to raise the long board off the top of the slide. I did this on both ends of the slideout. Using the slide power, I brought the slide in jogging it until it hit on the 2X4's. Now bringing the slide in jogging it still and the lower edge od the slide at the floor started to raise. You are essentially binding the slide mech. so be careful here. I was able to get enough clearance to clean out the carpet and remove staples off my ramp.
My glide strip underneath the slide is smooth and I didn't need to remove and replace it, but I am still going to glue some thin carpet to it, using the slideout tilt method I will use some 3M #90 spray glue to attach it.
I have ran my slideout in and out several times now with no problems
I laid 5 mm underlayment (glued and stapled) to get the floor as smooth as possible.
The tiles that I used is very heavy duty for commercial applications. and will withstand more abuse that linoleum and being 16" squares, if I do have a problem, I replace 1 tile.
The old carpet is gone and the new floor looks great
I am planning on doing the same technique to tilt the slide to replace the carpet on the shoe. I was going to try and just glue the carpet on shoe without removing shoe. How much space did the slide tilt up to get under for you to glue carpet on shoe? Is there any certain type of carpet that should be used ?

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Old 01-09-2020, 11:58 AM   #123
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does anyone have the part # for the glide shoe for non-carpet flat floor.
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Old 01-09-2020, 12:43 PM   #124
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I had some part number stored for my 2004 Adventurer 35U. I think you buy it and cut to length.

Orginal glide front - (115661-01-000 FT SHOE/GLIDE - SLIDEOUT ROOM - 1/16" X 3" - POLYETHYLENE

Orginal glide rear - 115661-01-000 FT SHOE/GLIDE - SLIDEOUT ROOM - 1/16" X 3" - POLYETHYLENE

The 87.2' section of skid shoe ramp part # 174758-06-A79 Used when switching from carpet.
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Old 01-10-2020, 08:24 AM   #125
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I am planning on trying the self stick carpet tiles around the ramp over the existing vinyl ramp, I just hope the glue on the self stick will stay in place.
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Old 12-16-2020, 12:33 AM   #126
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mods i have done to mine

if it makes any difference to any one. this is my modifications i did. But the people that did the carpet and tile replacement did it the wrong way. make sure you do it with the way Winnabago instruction.
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