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Old 05-29-2020, 11:15 PM   #1
2019 Winnebago Sunstar 27
 
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Vista/Sunstar 27PE Mods

I'd be very interested in hearing what modifications you guys (gender notwithstanding) to your 27PE's.
I too have just been outfitting a new 27PE, and am busy prepping it for our first outing. Trying to organize and customize a few things prior to shake down. So far items knocked off the list are;
1) Electrical Management Systems 30 Amp Surge and Electrical Protector EMS-HW30C. went with the hardwired model vs the dog bone as it's now a "Fit & Forget" item. don't need to worry about installing/removing every hook up.
2) Adding dividers / fiddles / additional shelving into cupboards to minimize sliding and creating additional interior storage space.
3) Building & installing full extension drawers into upper and lower pantry - ridiculous original configuration. 25" high and 25" inches deep - impossible to see or reach stores at back of cabinets.
4) Need to install additional 12 volt outlets & USB Ports in cockpit area for GPS, Phone and Dash Cam

I'd be also very interested in hearing if you recommend installing track bars and a steering stabilizer - I've only put a few kilometres on the rig so can't say how it handles in real life conditions.
Any thoughts, comments or recommendations for the rig would be greatly appreciated. We ‘ve just traded up from a 2019 MW 22M and can’t wait to get out and about in this.
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Old 05-30-2020, 07:31 AM   #2
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If it's a new design 2020 VIN Chassis with the V8 engine, then I'd drive it a month or two and see before investing in any suspension upgrades. Ford improved it from the prior version. Still no rear trac bar but most (including me) don't think the improvement in handling is worth the $ 700 cost to add.

If 2019 or earlier VIN then you can improve the handling with the Cheap Handling Fix (CHF). Check IRV2.COM for the CHF thread. Labor only improvement , at most under $ 100 for parts if you do CHF with the "Tejay" plates.

On my 2015 Vista 27N I installed a Safe-T-Steer steering stabilizer this improves drive-ability and allows one to control the RV to a safe stop in the unlikely event of a front tire blowout.

Other mods to consider:

SureFlo expansion tank in cold water line , I installed one in the outlet side of the water pump. When not connected to city water, it makes the water system work better in particular when using water at low flow.

Good tire valve extensions so you can maintain proper air pressure in rear duals without the contortions required without extensions. It's critical to maintain in and out duals and front tires at nearly the same pressure and always at or over the minimum pressure listed on the build sticker on the wall by the driving position.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System

One final thing - expect that there will be some water intrusion into the Vista basement storage compartments if you have to drive in rain. With the carpet on the floor of the basement compartments the water will migrate and soak and absorb into anything sitting on the floor. Protect items that can't get wet or they get soaked or rust.
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Old 05-30-2020, 09:10 AM   #3
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Thanks Randy

Gotta say I'm a tad distressed to hear about water ingress into lower compartments. One of the reasons for us to upgrade from the 22M was we had one compartment that continually had water ingress (fortunately it was the small passenger side one) and even after multiple warranty attempts water still got in. We plan on using some of the multiple compartments for occasional use interior items so we will ensure we store them in totes - helps organization anyway.

I've been reading the CHF on the IRV2 thread but having a bit of a problem visualizing it - hopefully when I crawl under it this morning it'll make more sense.

Thanks L
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Old 05-30-2020, 11:26 AM   #4
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Hopefully Winnebago has improved it, in mine the passenger side compartment in front of the dual wheels gets water intrusion when traveling in the rain. I think it's from water spray off the tires getting into the space between the top of the compartment and the floor and then flowing down to the floor. Some also seems to come thru the door to sidewall boundary. It's not a lot but because of the carpet on the floor and the fact that the floor is sealed and the water has no way to drain out it only takes a cup or two to make the whole floor wet.
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Old 05-31-2020, 02:01 AM   #5
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Hey Randy -

I was able to get my 27N completely dry, even in driving rains. Before this fix, most compartments were really wet, especially the long one on the Passenger side.

If you wait until dark, and put a powerful shop light inside the compartment, you can easily see each water intrusion spot as light leaks out.

Wow - Winnebago sure left a lot of gaps when building my compartments.

Armed with a gun full of rubbery caulk, black, so I could make sure the light went completely away, I was able to seal every one from the outside.

Top, bottom, and sides all had gaps. The doors sealed pretty well, but I adjusted each one to close tightly anyway.

What a pleasure having dry compartments! What BS it didn't come that way...
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Old 05-31-2020, 09:51 AM   #6
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I have also achieved dry compartments. I adjusted the closure latch on all the doors and that took care of all but one compartment. The troublesome compartment was located behind a rear wheel and water got into the compartment anytime we drove in a hard rain. To fix it, I got a can of liquid flex-seal (not the spay on stuff) and painted the exterior of the compartment. This fix has now held for over a year. We live in Florida so it has definitely been through some hard rains.

If you installed an EMS in your RV, you should have a plan for bypassing it should it fail. I know folks that had a failure of their EMS and it left them without power in the middle of a trip. I use an external EMS because I can easily remove it if needed plus test the power coming from the pedestal prior to connecting the RV.

On the sliders for the pantry, I would recommend doing only one pantry to start with. The sliders take up a good bit of room so it is nice to have the pantry without sliders for larger items.
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Old 06-06-2020, 08:29 PM   #7
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Thanks blueridge-fl,

I have installed the EMS but it comes with a "By-Pass" function. If that also fails it's not a big deal to simply rewire the shore power back to original configuration. I have the tools and connectors on board to rewire if needed.

Good point about the pantry as well. The designer decided she wants one drawer to have larger width to accomodate the toaster, kettle & bodem - that one will be made up with under cabinet slides with minimum thickness sides so as to maximize the 7" opening.
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Old 06-06-2020, 08:32 PM   #8
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Next question;

Discovered today the window screen in the vertically sliding aft dinette window needs the foam bug wiper reinserted into it's channel. For the life of me I cannot figure out how to remove the screen form the window casing. I noted a spring retaining clip on the right side (facing out) of the screen and figured I somehow need to compress that to allow the screen to pop out of the channel - but no go. Tried a dental pick and small bladed sot screw driver but to no avail.


Any hints as to how I can accomplish what should be a straight forward simple task?
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Old 06-06-2020, 10:00 PM   #9
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I'm thinking someone put the screen in backwards if the spring is on the outside. Maybe the second one is hidden by the glass?
There should be 2 spring pins at the top, on the inside. Pull them down, tilt the top of the screen inward to clear the top channel, then lift the screen out of the bottom channel. Done!
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Old 06-06-2020, 10:10 PM   #10
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Thanks YGoHom

I'll give it a go tomorrow
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:47 PM   #11
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I did the CHF, added the rear anti roll bar and saf-t-plus, was able to do it myself. Now the wife likes driving it! Also added the slide out shelves in the pantry. The biggest problem for me was the TV switching. No HDMI connection to the main switchbox above the entry door meant that I couldn't watch satellite on the main TV unless I connected the cable to the satellite receiver in the dinette through the window and then ran HDMI directly to the main tv. Ended up putting a wifi - HDMI switch in to make it work. WBGO wouldn't help, hope they have added to $2 cable into the switch cabinet in later models.
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Old 07-03-2020, 10:36 PM   #12
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Was able to get out for an inaugural four day 300 Km shake down cruise. Glad to say everything worked well with no issues, and was not terribly unhappy with the handling. For now I will hold off on doing any suspensions until we put a few hundred more kilometres on the rig and ensure their needed. If so will start with the rear anti sway bar and the Steering Stabilizer.
One mod I will do soon is to install a Black Water Tank external flushing port ( akin to the SAN T Flush we had on the 22 M). There’s easy access to the Black Tank through the Wet Bay so I can install a flush wand directly into the tank there.
I thought about installing a 1000W inverter but the install pkg from Winnebago ( 1000 Watt Xantrex inverter, auto change over switch and cabling) from Winnebago is roughly estimated at $1300 Cdn, plus shipping,
duty etc so probably not moving ahead on that one. Too much coin to power up a TV that we hardly watch in any case.

However very happy to see the work we did in organizing the cupboards and pantry worked well.
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Old 07-03-2020, 10:42 PM   #13
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Has anyone replaced the bathroom ceiling fan with a Fantastic Fan? I’m giving that some consideration. Found the OEM model wasn’t great about exhausting vapour from the shower. If that works as well as it did in the 22 M I’ll consider replacing the fan in galley area as well.

So anyone changed out either fan yet?
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:57 AM   #14
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On my last Class C we put this one in - https://www.recpro.com/exterior-part...t-multi-speed/

Easy replacement and you don't have to touch the portion on the outside leaving your seal in tact.
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:59 AM   #15
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And let me know how it goes with the black tank. Have a 29ve that I'm hoping to add similar and I can barely see the black tank from the wet bay BUT it's on the high side (opposite of the drain) so that's where I think it should go.
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Old 07-04-2020, 06:46 PM   #16
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I will definitely keep all informed as to the install; ease of implementation, costs, etc. I will try to upload some pics but have not been very successful doing that in the past.

L
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Old 07-05-2020, 01:50 PM   #17
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I changed out fans to MaxxAir 10 speed with rain sensors, thermostatic operation, and wireless remote controls. They have two supporting arms vs. one on the covers so they seem to be quieter and sturdier. It's convenient to leave them open and know they will close if it rains. With this feature, I don't need fan covers and the cover can open all the way and you get better ventilation vs. fan with a cover. I have 3 of the MaxxAir , one with a cover so I can have one continue to provide ventilation even if rain sensors operate.
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Old 07-30-2020, 11:27 AM   #18
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Completed the Black Tank Flush installation; it was a fairly straight forward job.
I used the Camco “Tornado with Remote Flusher Connection” (~$50.00 Cdn).
Access to the Black tank for the Tornado was through the Power Bay and I was able to fish the hookup hose forward to the Wet Bay.
I mounted the flushing connection and vacuum breaker to the existing aluminum plate in the Wet Bay - I did have to replace the hose with a longer piece to allow mounting of remote flusher connection and vacuum breaker- went that way versus splicing an extension in, and used a reinforced hose. Didn’t want to take any chances of it splitting some time down the road.
Other than the usual contortions working on a MoHo it actually wasn’t too bad an install. Scariest bit was actually drilling a 1 ¾ inch hole into the Black Tank, but was able to secure the removed plug before it dropped into the tank. If left it could have done serious damage to the macerator pump.

Total time was about two hours

- highly recommend this mod, should have been a standard factory install.
Sorry, still haven't figured out how to upload pictures
If anyone wants to see them PM me and I'll send them the old fashioned way
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