Vista 27N Winterization questions

vawinger · 10-06-2015, 06:51 AM

Will be doing the first winterization after this weekend's trip on our new (to us) 2014 Vista 27N. In northern Virginia, we will probably do a few more weekends before any "hard" freezes, so hoping to just blow the lines each time for now and use anti-freeze before the hard freezes hit for final winter storage.

So now to the questions: After reading the owners manual: is it true that you have to remove a panel under the bed to get to the water tank drain valve? And the low point drain is actually the outside shower? The RV is in storage right now, so I haven't had a chance to look under the bed since I read the manual.

There is a drain valve in the wet bay (pipe that runs from top of compartment to the outside underneath) that I thought might be the fresh tank drain - that's what I used when I sanitized the tank a few weeks ago, but it didn't drain the tank completely - I thought maybe because I didn't have it level.

I guess I was expecting low point drains for hold and cold water lines underneath the unit somewhere like our travel trailer had, but I'm not seeing anything similar.

Can any other 27N owners shed any light on where the drains actually are? Any tips for draining and winterizing?

Also one more question (sorry!) on the water heater drain plug - is there a secret to removing the plug? The OM says a socket, but because of stuff located in front of the plug, you can't get a socket on it. I removed the heat shield and used a crescent wrench, but just wondering if there's an easier way.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom or tips!

dwaugh10 · 10-06-2015, 07:30 AM

I have a 2013 27N, so don't know if all is the same. The large drain in the wet bay is the main tank drain. There is also a line drain located next to the water pump in the rear most passenger side compartment. The low point drain is located under a metal panel in the large rear compartment. I have to remove several screws. Under this panel is where the water heater is located. I use compressed air to blow the lines and have had no issues. Don't forget to drain the plastic strainer bowl on the water pump.

I have used a socket on the water heater drain plug. A universal joint adapter is very helpful. I think the socket size is 15/16 inch

David
2013 Vista 27N

danhannah · 10-06-2015, 04:21 PM

Thanks for the info on the 27n David.

Where do you attach the compressor for blowing out the lines?

dwaugh10 · 10-06-2015, 08:16 PM

I hook the compressor into where you connect the water hose in the wet bay. Went to Home Depot and put together an adapter with a male hose fitting on one end and air compressor quick connect on the other end. Probably cost about $8.

David
2013 Vista 27N

danhannah · 10-06-2015, 10:59 PM

I like it. Of course, the best winterizing advice I ever got was to drive the sucker to Palm Springs....

vawinger · 10-07-2015, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danhannah

I like it. Of course, the best winterizing advice I ever got was to drive the sucker to Palm Springs....

I like this approach the best!

However work keeps me in colder temps (for now).

jazzerjump · 10-07-2015, 04:25 PM

I also added a small ball valve so that I could open the air slowly to not shock the system with 25-30 psi plus I can close to let my smaller compressor catch up without going to the compressor.
I normally just blow out this time of the year then we are fortunate enough to be able to go to Arizona for the worst winter months then I just need to blow out after we get back as the super cold weather is typically done.
I also open the tank fill valve while hooked up to make sure that line is drained-it probably does anyway but I don't always trust it.
I also blow the tank out some then put the plug back in. You can either then pressurize the tank with air or use the tank bypass valve to skip it. I have done both.

powercat_ras · 10-07-2015, 11:21 PM

Also: The 27N owners manual has a very complete discussion of winterizing the 27N, you might read that. Personally, I pour some RV anti freeze in the sink traps and toilet bowl in addition to winterizing the water lines and hot water heater. I also like to take the strainer cap off the inlet side of the water pump while winterized as its so easily broken by water freezing to ice if any water is left in the strainer cap, and blowing out with air does not reach that side of the water pump due to a check valve and the pump itself.

jewallace · 10-08-2015, 08:32 AM

I have a 2013 27N and, assuming the 2014 is the same, just be aware that to get to the by-pass for the water heater, you have to remove the top of the metal box where the water heater resides and reach to the rear. There is only one handle that has to be turned. My dealer gave me totally incorrect instructions and I ended up with antifreeze in the water heater which took a while to get it out and I had a lot of foam to deal with. As to the water heater drain, my husband is in charge of that and always had a difficult time getting to it. This spring he had the dealer put in a water heater petcock so it is now much easier.

sask66 · 11-04-2015, 07:13 PM

Winterized our 2013 Vista 27n today. I had a problem getting the fresh water tank to drain. It had about 3 inches of water left in the tank, visible when the storage door was open (where water pump and a low point drain is located. Main fresh water drain was open and only drained it down that far. Had to unhook the line from water pump to get more to drain but had to drive unit onto a passenger to driver side slant to get almost rest out. .??. Didn't have that problem last year. Any ideas??

DavidMorton · 11-08-2015, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vawinger

Will be doing the first winterization after this weekend's trip on our new (to us) 2014 Vista 27N. In northern Virginia, we will probably do a few more weekends before any "hard" freezes, so hoping to just blow the lines each time for now and use anti-freeze before the hard freezes hit for final winter storage.

So now to the questions: After reading the owners manual: is it true that you have to remove a panel under the bed to get to the water tank drain valve? And the low point drain is actually the outside shower? The RV is in storage right now, so I haven't had a chance to look under the bed since I read the manual.

There is a drain valve in the wet bay (pipe that runs from top of compartment to the outside underneath) that I thought might be the fresh tank drain - that's what I used when I sanitized the tank a few weeks ago, but it didn't drain the tank completely - I thought maybe because I didn't have it level.

I guess I was expecting low point drains for hold and cold water lines underneath the unit somewhere like our travel trailer had, but I'm not seeing anything similar.

Can any other 27N owners shed any light on where the drains actually are? Any tips for draining and winterizing?

Also one more question (sorry!) on the water heater drain plug - is there a secret to removing the plug? The OM says a socket, but because of stuff located in front of the plug, you can't get a socket on it. I removed the heat shield and used a crescent wrench, but just wondering if there's an easier way.

Thanks in advance for any wisdom or tips!

I also bought a 2015 27N, and was confused by the manual. There is no hatch with valve under the bed !!!!..... the valve by the water pump with drain to bottom is one of the drain valves, however it needed the pump "on" for it to drain properly. There is another drain under the black metal hatch in the back bay on the right side. remove the screws and hatch, and you will see both a low point drain valve as well as the bypass valve for the hot water heater. the drain for the hot water heater needs a flex joint with the socket, socket extender and ratchet drive in order to get around the stuff in front of it. hope this helps

Eyephoto · 11-09-2015, 01:49 PM

I'm glad someone started this thread.... I have a '94 Georgie Boy Cruise Master for 8 years, and figured all the steps to quickly winterize it. Its done. Now, we get a '99 Ultimate Freedom, first time to figure out this system. It has a winterization package on it, with two diverting solenoids, and low point drains, and antifreeze tanks. So I'm up for the challenge. Oh yea, its 3:30 Sunday, and I have both rigs to do, after we have been camping for the weekend. Got 6 gal. of the pink stuff, I'm ready to go. Drain the fresh tank, open the hot water tank, prev own left a correct socket wrench in the panel, WARM WATER SPRAYS ALL OVER ME, (I hi-light this so you can learn from my mistake) old rig does not have the pressurize line tank. open the low point drains. Now I park the rig in its storage spot because I didn't want to work through all that water. Threw the two switches on the inside panel for the by-pass, filled the reservoir and go in to turn on the pump, look under the rig, its leaking pink, shut off pump, close low point drains, put another gal in tank. turn pump on, and start turning on faucets. Turn pump off no more pink stuff. refill tank, this is gal. #4. as I'm heading back inside, AHH, I have an icemaker, took the cover off and disconnected the line, shot pink stuff through, reconnect. OH YEAH, I have a washer/dryer. Start the gen engine, set that to cycle so I see pink. Almost forgot, the half hidden dishwasher, because the slide is in. Start the gen engine again, level the rig, extend the slide just enough to get to the dishwasher, cycle that to see pink. By the time I'm finished with this rig I have gone through 5 gal. All the while I see leakage from under the hot water tank area, was it being pumped into the hot? I pulled of the cover and nothing was coming out of the plug, it was under the tank. I must have a crack in the winter tank. It's now 6freezingcold30, I've got to go back to Wallystore for more pink, I know I need 2 gal for GB, and I still have to empty the fridge and food and clothes to bring back home.

Thank you all for letting me vent today....oh and HAPPY CAMPING!!!
P-PS--Happy Veterans Day .. GO NAVY!!!

jazzerjump · 11-10-2015, 12:15 PM

May be late with this but here goes. The Winnebago web site has a resources link that when you plug in year and model will open a ling to the general 2914 plumbing diagrams for the 27N.

It does show 2 valves behind the water heater-would guess one is the bypass and one appears to be a low point drain-valves have a V on the numbering system. In the pump area it shows what is probably the winterization valve with a hose running out of it that would go into the antifreeze jug and a low point drain also. Our 2012 30T is set up that way. We access the water heater bypass through our sink cabinet but your heater looks like it is in back of coach.

The main tank drain valve is not at the very bottom of the tank in looking at the diagram. Ours is not either because of the fittings. Our coach was level when it drained but when I raised the jacks it sits a little low on the drain side so more came out. After you winterize if you can raise the opposite side from the drain you may be able to get more out. Winnebago must feel the small amount of water in the tank is not an issue if it freezes.

Eyephoto · 11-10-2015, 10:26 PM

I pulled the winterization tank today. No crack, but there was 4 screw holes in it. One was from the rubber door bumper, another one was from the mounting of the hot water tank, and two were from the hot water door lock. No wonder it leaked.