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Old 05-05-2015, 10:47 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboticRV View Post
Just wondering if anyone has hardwired their GPS? I want to mount it on the dash and hardwire it somewhere.

Robo
RoboticRV, I didn't hardwire my GPS, what I did do was add a second 12v accessory plug-in beside the OEM one down by the drivers left leg. I'm running a dash cam and GPS on that side. Initially I had bought one of those after market plug-in accessory splinters, the one with the extra hole or two. I didn't like that set up much, to much dangling off the receptacle for my liking. Then I thought of hardwiring one or both. Ended up installing the second accessory outlet and wired it into the original. The original has enough amps to run both 12v accessory receptacles since neither The GPS or DashCam draws that much in amps. Then I just tucked the wires between the dash and wall. Neat and is still removable if need be. I also added a 5V USB power outlet just above the second OEM 12v plug-in that is in the mid-dash area. I use that to charge my iPhone etc that needs 5V to charge.
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:37 PM   #102
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Another Bedroom TV Install

I used a Samsung 21.5 T22B350ND TV set which weighs about 8 lbs. A lightweight mount screwed to inch plywood with three good sizes screws that penetrate into the top of the wall where there is an aluminum frame behind the wall. I keep the TV tight to the walls with a bungee cord when moving so it doesn't extend out and put more force on the mounts. Felt pads in the corners to protect the walls. So far so good. If it comes loose, I will make a triangular mount like RoboticRV is using.
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Old 05-07-2015, 04:56 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboticRV View Post
Just wondering if anyone has hardwired their GPS? I want to mount it on the dash and hardwire it somewhere.

Robo
Here are some pics of how I powered my GPS and dash cam. The CB is hard wired and fused in the dash. The GPS and dash cam plug into the Wagan and the Wagan plugged into the dash 12V socket. The Wagan is attached to the dash with 3M tape.

I didn't want to hardwire the GPS because it doesn't really turn off when you turn it off. It stays powered up charging the battery and keeping the GPS in what I would call a hot standby mode. All my Garmin vehicle units operate this way. I didn't want my GPS powered up all the time so I just plug it in when needed.

The Wagan USB 5V power was an issue. If I charged a cell phone with the CB on, it created a lot of noise on the CB so I don't use the USB power at all. Probably not good for my cell phone. My 12V to 5V USB chargers do not generate any noise on the CB.
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Old 05-07-2015, 05:12 PM   #104
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More Things To Consider

If you watch this youtube video, you will probably have doubts about how long your refrigerator door will last. My 26HE has the Norcold refrigerator and appears to have the same door hinge as shown in the video. No telling how much abuse the video RV has seen with respect to rough roads and door loading but I think I might take some precautionary measures with mine. There is a space at the top of the hinge that can be filled with epoxy which should strengthen the hinge to some degree. Plus I don't think we will pack as much as we usually do on the shelves. Might even make a bracket similar to the one on the video and reinforce it a little more.

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Old 05-10-2015, 08:10 PM   #105
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Question Where does this go

my last trip when I opened the water storage door to see how much water I had left I found this piece of foam sitting there. I cant see where it might have come from so if one of you fellow 26he owners could look and give me an idea of where it goes I would appreciate it . even has a part #



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Old 05-11-2015, 06:58 AM   #106
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Rmblaster,

It happened to me. Look around on the brackets which hold the tank above the fresh water tank. Styrofoam padded the tank from the brackets. I just looked at mine, there is a piece between the tanks on the left side of the gray tank and the underneath side the gray tank. Guessing from the size of the piece in the picture, it's one of these tank separators.
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:55 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyp47 View Post
If you watch this youtube video, you will probably have doubts about how long your refrigerator door will last. My 26HE has the Norcold refrigerator and appears to have the same door hinge as shown in the video. No telling how much abuse the video RV has seen with respect to rough roads and door loading but I think I might take some precautionary measures with mine. There is a space at the top of the hinge that can be filled with epoxy which should strengthen the hinge to some degree. Plus I don't think we will pack as much as we usually do on the shelves. Might even make a bracket similar to the one on the video and reinforce it a little more.

Thanks for sharing your observation.

I may not build a bracket but I will certainly watch for excessive weight on the door shelves in the future! At least while on the road.
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:41 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQ Judge View Post
Rmblaster,

It happened to me. Look around on the brackets which hold the tank above the fresh water tank. Styrofoam padded the tank from the brackets. I just looked at mine, there is a piece between the tanks on the left side of the gray tank and the underneath side the gray tank. Guessing from the size of the piece in the picture, it's one of these tank separators.

BBQ Judge is it possible you could post some pics
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:33 PM   #109
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[QUOTE=Rmblaster;2550416]my last trip when I opened the water storage door to see how much water I had left I found this piece of foam sitting there. I cant see where it might have come from so if one of you fellow 26he owners could look and give me an idea of where it goes I would appreciate it . even has a part #

Rmblaster, the foam fits between the fresh water tank and the grey water tank
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:15 PM   #110
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Oldtrooper thanks a million
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:21 AM   #111
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Has anybody added a black tank flush to make it easier to clean out ? . I have been using a Flush King and it does a good job but looking for easier way I have included video of flush king in process

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ru41M-nmq3M
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:22 AM   #112
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Just wondering if anyone has ever removed the engine cover on the Vista 26HE? I found two screws on either side of the cover near the dash, but it still won't come off.
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:22 AM   #113
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There is a latch on the back side ( side away from the dash) that takes a hex key to unlatch. The hole is hidden in the carpeting. You should have gotten a hex key in the owners packet.


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Old 06-09-2015, 07:11 AM   #114
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Thanks, I will check it out!
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:44 PM   #115
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Checked the oil in the moorhome today. I closed the hood down and walked away. About 30 feet away I hear a clunk. There is a piece of metal on the ground that looks like a sop for the hood. I open it bak up and yes that is what it is. It is an upper stop and would stop the fiberglass from hitting the windshield.

I called Winnebago to find out what glue holds it on. The rep said to use Plexus. I told him this is Canada and I don't think it available. Well, he told me to go to the dealer. Once again I reminded him that this is Canada. My closes dealer is two hours away.

Well, the only available adhesive from Napa was Permatex. Didn't work. Any idea of what is used at the factory??
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:58 AM   #116
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rottenkid... The factory is probably using a fiberglass filled two part epoxy. In Canada you should be able to find a high performance epoxy such as one of the Loctite products.

Here is the link to Loctite.... Welcome to the World of Loctite | Select your kind of use
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:03 AM   #117
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I had the exact same thing happen to my 2013 Vista 27N. I used a 2 part epoxy putty. I believe it was called SteelStik by JB Weld. I got it from Home Depot. I roughed up the old glue surface and also installed a couple of screws in the old epoxy, leaving the heads exposed about 1/4 inch. This also gives the new epoxy something to hold on to. Did this about a year ago and its still holding. May want to check that the bumper on the part is not sticking out too far when the hood is down.

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Old 07-21-2015, 04:23 PM   #118
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The same exact thing happened to mine. The pass side fell off after I closed the hood and I heard it fall. The drivers side was partially loose so I just pulled it off. Wouldn't be nice to have it fall off on the road and go through someones windshield. Since there is a solid hood stop in the middle, I picked up some thick peel off sticky back weather stripping and stuck that to the base of the windshield on both sides until I can come up with a better fix.

The design is flawed right from the start and designed to fail. The fiberglass section should have had wood embedded in it to provide something solid for these brackets to fasten to. Or they should have used a backing piece with a lot more adhesive spread out over a larger area. Whoever designed this at Winnebago should be fired.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:50 PM   #119
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Quote:
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Checked the oil in the moorhome today. I closed the hood down and walked away. About 30 feet away I hear a clunk. There is a piece of metal on the ground that looks like a sop for the hood. I open it bak up and yes that is what it is. It is an upper stop and would stop the fiberglass from hitting the windshield.

I called Winnebago to find out what glue holds it on. The rep said to use Plexus. I told him this is Canada and I don't think it available. Well, he told me to go to the dealer. Once again I reminded him that this is Canada. My closes dealer is two hours away.

Well, the only available adhesive from Napa was Permatex. Didn't work. Any idea of what is used at the factory??

rottenkid, thanks for the post. Right after I read it I went and checked the MH and sure enough, with a little, and I mean little tug, BOTH, fell off in my hand. Glad I checked. I'm pretty darn sure if I lost them on the road I 1) probably wouldn't have know I lost them and 2) if I did lose one I can only imagine the cost of trying to get one on order.

As far as sticking them back on. I have used Devcon Plastic Steel and that stuff really really will hold. It's a two part epoxy, not cheap either. The trouble I see now is once you have the epoxy on you will pretty well have to hold it in place till it stats to cure. I don't see clamps working all that well In that part of the hood.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:46 PM   #120
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Next problem is air-conditioning. I have 8,ooo miles on the vista 26HE. The chassis air will not turn on. I switch it over to let fresh air in and I get air conditioned air. I switch back to air and it works. Now the next part I noticed that I can't regulate heat. So I don't know if it is the switch. I called the Winnebago dealer and they don't work on chassis air conditioning. The Ford deal will work on it, but if it is dealer installed faul then they have to order the parts from Winnebago. And because it is a Winnebago part, I'm not covered under warranty.
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