I finished my inverter bedroom switch control and the outside cold water shower yesterday. Well, in Arizona, even in the high country, there's no such thing as cold water. Today I did the CHF and tomorrow we will see how that change affected the handling. Here's a pic of my wiring diagram for the inverter and a pic of the shower in case anyone wants to see what I did.
An issue I had early on with my 26HE was the outside mirrors. The passenger side mirror would vibrate to the point where I had to take more than a glance at it to see what was next to me. I called Winnebago and they sent me the instructions for adjusting the clips that hold tension on the mirror glass.
I looked at the mirrors and couldn't find the clips so I called Velvac (mirror manufacturer) and they told me there were none in my mirrors. I said OK, so why not? Well, it's optional now she said. I can send you kits if you want to install them yourself and then she indicated there would be a cost associated with it. I countered by stating the fact that their mirrors are dangerous and whoever decided to eliminate these clips should be fired. She sent me the kits no charge.
Installing the kits fixed the problem. So if your mirrors vibrate too much, here's where to start.
Gary, great job on the upgrades and negotiating with the mirror manufacturer! I like most of the trade offs Winnebago made in getting the price down on the 26HE, but not where it compromises safety. So far, I have not had the same problem but I'll look at that more closely on my next RV trip.
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE, 2014 Honda CRV with Roadmaster tow package, RVing on weekends and vacation since June 2012
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2023 Newmar Bay Star 3014, towing 2014 Honda CRV
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE
In the coach:
1. Remove OEM mattress and replace.
2. Remove the privacy slide curtain at bedroom
3. Add max air vent in bathroom
4. Add Fantastic Fan and vent cover in galley
5. Add flat cover to stove top
6. added BluRay disc player To the Chassis
1. Cheap handling fix
2. front wheel alingment
3. Safe-t-Plus Steering control
next - moving or throwing out the side chair.
rear sway bar work to improve handling
DW also hates where the toilet paper holder is located.
When you added the fan to the galley vent, how did you wire it. There are two wires there now, one white, one yellow....were you able to track them back to their origin.....
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OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
We installed 6V Trojan T105's. They provide enough power to pump some water, watch 2 hours of TV and keep the inside temperature at 60 degrees on a 40 degree night and not have the batteries discharge more than 50%. Neal, 2013 Sunstar 26he, 03 Tracker ZR-2
We installed 6V Trojan T105's. They provide enough power to pump some water, watch 2 hours of TV and keep the inside temperature at 60 degrees on a 40 degree night and not have the batteries discharge more than 50%. Neal, 2013 Sunstar 26he, 03 Tracker ZR-2
I think I will do the same. The factory NAPA batteries just don't cut it. Thanks to everyone that responded.
Sidebar question for Garyp47: have you put hubs on your 01 Tracker? Neal, 2013 Sunstar 26he, 03 Tracker ZR-2
What a coincidence you asked about this. I did a 2" suspension lift on mine and it didn't take long for the passenger side differential seal to leak. I had the original seal replaced and a couple weeks later the same thing. I drove it for 7 months or so and watched the differential oil level and had to top it off numerous times. The guy that replaced the seal showed me the flop in the passenger axle at the differential and I knew a new seal wasn't going to fix the problem.
After researching it, the design of the passenger axle support at the differential is, how can I say this, non-existent. Let's just say the Suzuki engineer that designed this should have been fired. The inner differential gear is all that supports the axle shaft. Well, that's not entirely true. The axle seal adds some support. LOL
Unlike the earlier Trackers and Vitaras, the front axles on ours spin all the time. 4WD is accomplished via a pressure actuator inside the differential gear case. A small pump behind the bumper starts and pressurizes the actuator interlocking the gear sets and thereby locking the front wheels together. The transfer case livens up the front output shaft when in high or low 4WD. Rotation of the axles (and transfer case front output shaft) occur continuously (even in 2WD) and with a 2” lift (axles no longer parallel with the ground) will start to wear the internal gear a bit and cause the flopping around of the axle causing the seal to leak.
Solution is to get the factory hubs off and replace them with manual locking hubs. This will stop the axles and front transfer case shaft from spinning all the time. That's phase 1 only. Phase 2 is to get the nylon bushing/bearing described in a Suzuki service bulletin. This bushing further supports the axle shaft and stops the seal from leaking. TSB No. TS 06 05227
When I tried to get my axle out, it wouldn't come out. Screwdrivers and pry bars on opposite sides wouldn't compress the inner retainer ring and let the axle pop out. I had to buy a special tool and basically beat it out. It came out but not all of the retainer ring came out with it. I couldn't leave loose parts inside so I took the differential completely apart and got the bits and pieces out. The gears looked OK so I left them as is. I also picked up a new inner differential case on Ebay just in case. Hopefully I can sell it if this all works out OK.
I am waiting for the nylon bushing that should get here tomorrow. I ordered it online from a place in England. Bits4Vits Store It's taking 2 weeks to get here. The Suzuki dealer in Phoenix has it for $75. The England one was $25 with shipping. My differential is sitting on a box waiting for the bushing and a new axle seal which I have.
This will remedy the design flaw and keep the axles from turning all the time until I manually lock them (Warn hubs 34581) and activate the 4WD inside the car. Now I can tow the crap out of it and not worry about an axle coming apart. I actually carried around a hack saw just in case. It should tow a little easier also since the parasitic load of all those parts rotating is gone. For as much time as it will be in 4WD, it should not give me any more trouble. The truck only has 58K on it so it should give me a few more years of service.
I think lifting it the 2” is costing me somewhere near $1,000 right now. Amazing! And that's doing most of the work myself.
You probably know all this already and if not, let me know if you have any questions.
Soon after purchase, I discovered the Tracker's 4wd was inoperative. My testing showed that the problem was the actuator leaking inside the differential.
Rather than replacement, I decided to apply the "zip-tie" fix to the actuator (I used wire instead of an actual zip-tie). If you're not familiar with this - it locks the actuator in the 4wd mode permanently.
I installed a kit - hubs, seals and plastic support bushing from AlteredEgo Motorsports in Canada and it all seems to work well.
I haven't looked yet - there may be a better place in irv2 to post toad stuff. I'd like to keep up with what you're doing with your tracker.
This may be late, as I was enjoying my Motorhome on CA coast and didn't have cell coverage... :-)
I replace the two stock house batteries (group 24) with two group 27 batteries. In hind sight, I wish I had gone with group 31 batteries, as they would have fit in the battery compartment just fine...best of luck in your battery upgrade!
Al
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2023 Newmar Bay Star 3014, towing 2014 Honda CRV
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 35P
2013 Itasca Sunstar 26HE
Just a comment on my experience with dash squeaks on the 26HE. When we first purchased the 26HE there seemed to be a squeak coming from, I thought, the area of the TV. It wasn't bad and only really noticed on the rougher roads. The other day I was adding two extra 12volt accessory outlets and had the dash cover off. As I was leaning over things I head a little squeak, I looked around and found a couple of spots where the plastic dash "rests" against stand-offs coming off the main framework for the dash area. There are three areas for potential squeaks. 1. by the in-dash monitor, 2 by the radio and 3 on the left of the steering wheel. I ended up squirting a little PL Premium between the plastic and the standoffs. 24 hours later, the dash is as solid as a rock and the squeak is gone. I mention this for fellow 26HE owners, cause the sound traveled around the dash and I swore it was the TV. Anyway my experience.
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OldTrooper
2013 Winnebago 26HE & 65 Vette (toad)
Linear Mode
