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Old 12-03-2020, 09:19 AM   #1
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I have had trouble with keeping my tires inflated, and the mobile compressors really have not been robust enough to add 10lbs to each tire every time I need to pick up stakes.

So I purchased this Viair 380C from a local distributor. Later this month I will hard mount it in one of the service bays (hopefully near the hydraulic motor). The air intake will be run to the inside of one of the storage compartments, and I still need to acquire a switch to be hard mounted somewhere.

Not currently planning on using a air tank intermediary, though this pump would do a great job filling one, just want to pump directly to the tires. Maybe after using this setup a few times I will feel a tank would be useful, but for now, no tank.

The end goal would be to be able to grab a 50' hose, and top off all of the tires within 10 minutes. Will update with more pictures once I get it installed.
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Old 12-03-2020, 08:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theSane View Post
I have had trouble with keeping my tires inflated, and the mobile compressors really have not been robust enough to add 10lbs to each tire every time I need to pick up stakes.

So I purchased this Viair 380C from a local distributor. Later this month I will hard mount it in one of the service bays (hopefully near the hydraulic motor). The air intake will be run to the inside of one of the storage compartments, and I still need to acquire a switch to be hard mounted somewhere.

Not currently planning on using a air tank intermediary, though this pump would do a great job filling one, just want to pump directly to the tires. Maybe after using this setup a few times I will feel a tank would be useful, but for now, no tank.

The end goal would be to be able to grab a 50' hose, and top off all of the tires within 10 minutes. Will update with more pictures once I get it installed.
FYI. You saw where I mounted my ARB compressor. Mid ship, in the battery compartment for the high current draw, and easily reaches all six tires. The switch is right there next to the bottom of the door, and activated only when key is in run position. 25’ hose was long enough from this point.
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Old 12-04-2020, 10:08 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Wyatt View Post
FYI. You saw where I mounted my ARB compressor. Mid ship, in the battery compartment for the high current draw, and easily reaches all six tires. The switch is right there next to the bottom of the door, and activated only when key is in run position. 25’ hose was long enough from this point.
I should only need 12ga wire for a >10' run (max 23A@12V) to where I want it installed. Shooting for an install opposite the battery bay behind the driver side front tire. Not enough room to put this in the battery bay its self.
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Old 12-11-2020, 04:29 PM   #4
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Got the air pump installed. Used the relay included with the pump to wire in a switch. As I do not have a tank, I did not use the included air pressure switch.

This model comes with an remote air intake kit. It is run from the compressor to the nearest locked storage bay. This should keep water and debris out of the pump.
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Old 12-11-2020, 05:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theSane View Post
Got the air pump installed. Used the relay included with the pump to wire in a switch. As I do not have a tank, I did not use the included air pressure switch.

This model comes with an remote air intake kit. It is run from the compressor to the nearest locked storage bay. This should keep water and debris out of the pump.
Perfect, and nice bracket you fashioned there!
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Old 12-11-2020, 05:20 PM   #6
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Perfect, and nice bracket you fashioned there!
The bracket was made by Viair as an optional accessory purchase. Everything else but the switch was part of the air pump package.

Ran two power lines for this, one for the pump to draw, and the other for the switch. They follow the existing power runs for the hydraulic pump for the levelers, slide out, and a few other items.

There are three grounds: switch, pump, & relay. All three grounds use the existing chassis ground for the leveling jack pump.

Put an inline 25 amp fuse before the relay. The pump should not cross 23 amps, so it should be good.
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Old 12-16-2020, 04:45 PM   #7
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All fine and good about the air compressor. But what is happening that you need to add air to the tires all the time?

I drive all over the country, always check my pressure before driving, and seldom add air to any of the 6 tires. Yes, they do go up and down a bit, depending upon extreme changes in ambient temperature and altitude. But unless it is way out of whack, for the short haul, I usually let them run as is.

I recently drove from Oregon to South Texas, from sea level, over the Rockies, and back to sea level. Temps from the 70's, down to the 30's, up to 90's, and back to the 80's. I usually run them at 98psi, but 90 is ok, as is 105 according to the load charts. I watched them closely as always, all 6 tires were always moving up or down in pressure in sync with the others, never added or removed air the whole trip, and all is good.
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Old 12-16-2020, 10:46 PM   #8
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I carry a pancake compressor and it fills tires in record time plus even runs my high power impact wrench along with a number of other air tools. I do not deal with 12 volt compressors any longer when it comes to the RV. I bring the air tools and sockets sufficient for doing most emergency services including brakes and tire changes so the real compressor works out very well for me especially since I may also be involved in an impromptu finish trim/cabinetry or framing project and have my air nailers/staplers too.
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Old 12-17-2020, 12:25 AM   #9
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I carry a pancake compressor and it fills tires in record time plus even runs my high power impact wrench along with a number of other air tools. I do not deal with 12 volt compressors any longer when it comes to the RV. I bring the air tools and sockets sufficient for doing most emergency services including brakes and tire changes so the real compressor works out very well for me especially since I may also be involved in an impromptu finish trim/cabinetry or framing project and have my air nailers/staplers too.
Cool. With that setup you’re ready for the Rubicon!
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Old 12-17-2020, 05:10 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by NeilV
I carry a pancake compressor and it fills tires in record time plus even runs my high power impact wrench along with a number of other air tools.
If I had airbags, airhorn, or some other need, I could add a 1-5 gallon tank and be covered, but, as of now, I do not have those use cases.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Journey39n
All fine and good about the air compressor. But what is happening that you need to add air to the tires all the time?
After driving for a day, or sitting for a week, I have found all 6 tires like to revert to ~75lbs of pressure. So, every morning before starting a drive, I bring them up to 85-90lbs.
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Old 12-18-2020, 06:43 AM   #11
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Cool. With that setup you’re ready for the Rubicon!

Don't know about the Rubicon but having the tools got me out of a jam in Rural Alabama when I was camping on an abandoned air field that the local community was offering as a campground for $5 a day when I had a rear brake pad de-laminate. There were no places within over 100 miles that would service them even though the parts were available on the shelf locally. Having the tools allowed me to get that done without driving out with no friction media on the rear brakes scoring up the rotors into an unusable state and chancing a lockup or brake fire.

Also worked out very well when I had to have a tire changed with the spare I carry and used road side assistance since the truck that showed up did not have the sockets or impact wrench big enough to do the job of removing the wheel covers and the lugs.


Better to have and not need than to need and not have.
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Old 12-18-2020, 06:58 AM   #12
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If I had airbags, airhorn, or some other need, I could add a 1-5 gallon tank and be covered, but, as of now, I do not have those use cases.




After driving for a day, or sitting for a week, I have found all 6 tires like to revert to ~75lbs of pressure. So, every morning before starting a drive, I bring them up to 85-90lbs.

Most will go months without loosing that much air pressure. My knee jerk reaction is how old are the tires however on a 2018 they should not be much over 2 years old. Perhaps the valves in the stems are not in tightly or the valve stems themselves are defective.

If the previous owner put balancing beads in them without using the correct tire valves with the screens on them to prevent the beads from causing a slow leak that might explain it. Some tire shops use loose beads instead of the bags that keep the beads contained until after the tire spins up to speed the first time and put them in by breaking the bead so they can pour the loose beads in between the tire and the rim which can leave stray balancing beads on the rims sealing area also causing a slow leak,

Do the wheels tend to get very warm? Could be dragging brakes and the heat developed by that too.
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Old 12-18-2020, 07:03 AM   #13
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Tires are original Michelin made in 2017. I would put money on the valve extensions, but there are none on the fronts.
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Old 12-27-2020, 06:43 AM   #14
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Took a trip to Illinois from Arizona for Christmas. No issues on the drive, but the first night in Illinois the water lines in the wet bay froze, breaking the cap on the end of Pex 8-port manifold. Still has yet to complete thaw, but the opening from inside to the wetbay is not enough to keep it warm.

Furnace did a good job keeping us warm. We burn a lot of propane, but are comfortable.

Just need to find a replacement cap at a hardware store and put a heater in there to defrost it. Any suggestions on heaters for that area?
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Old 12-27-2020, 04:18 PM   #15
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Took a trip to Illinois from Arizona for Christmas. No issues on the drive, but the first night in Illinois the water lines in the wet bay froze, breaking the cap on the end of Pex 8-port manifold. Still has yet to complete thaw, but the opening from inside to the wetbay is not enough to keep it warm.

Furnace did a good job keeping us warm. We burn a lot of propane, but are comfortable.

Just need to find a replacement cap at a hardware store and put a heater in there to defrost it. Any suggestions on heaters for that area?
Wow, what a bummer. Sorry for that. There goes any hope that the pump house will stay warm enough not to freeze with just the coach heater on...

I’m going to research small heaters now...
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Old 12-27-2020, 06:43 PM   #16
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Wow, what a bummer. Sorry for that. There goes any hope that the pump house will stay warm enough not to freeze with just the coach heater on...

I’m going to research small heaters now...
Ok, here’s what I came up with. A very small footprint 500 watt convection air heater with anti tip feature. The separate thermostatically controlled outlet would allow one to install the display in the outdoor kitchen for ease of programming and seeing the display, plugging it into the inverter controlled outdoor kitchen TV plug, and running the probe and outlets down behind the outdoor right kitchen wall into the pump house bay to keep it only as warm as necessary. Thoughts?
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Old 05-31-2021, 10:07 AM   #17
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Roof Inspection

Getting Tina ready for travel this season, and noticed a gap in the sealant at the rear driver's side cap. Looked like water could get back behind, so I pulled it off to see what things looked like.

Looks like a potential for serious water damage if left alone to me. I am going to clean everything off I can, then put a thick bead of sealant under every edge of the cap before securing it back down. Then will use the self leveling sealant all the way to the edge.

Looking at the sealant callout sheet for my 31P, I think I need Sealant C (P# 094401-04-000) for the cap, and Sealant B (P# 329294-01-01A) to cover between the roof rubber, and the cap.


According to this thread, Sealant C is Stone Mason Gutter & Siding Sealant, and in this thread, Winnebago uses NuFlex self leveling silicone for the roof flashing, and I hope that will work here. I really cannot find P# 329294-01-01A listed anywhere to see what it really is.
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Old 05-31-2021, 10:18 AM   #18
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Good catch! That does look like it’s asking for trouble.
For sealing things on the roof or sidewalls, it’s common to use Butyl tape on the inside/between parts, and Dicor lap sealant (self leveling on the roof, and non sag for walls) all around the joints. Eternabond tape is also popular to go over seams and reports to hold up much longer.
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Old 05-31-2021, 10:24 AM   #19
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Good call on the butyl tape. I have some in my kit and will use that to span the gap of the rubber where they wrapped it over the corner.
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Old 05-31-2021, 12:29 PM   #20
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I used self-leveling dicor to replace the missing sealant on my front cap. I did some prep and cleaned the roof after and then applied Eternabond tape 3” on the end caps and 2” on the sides and around every roof penetration. To eliminate the need to reapply dicor annually to the roof. Eternabond tape has to be rolled after application to ensure a good bond. That was over 1 1/2 years ago and it is performing as it should and still looks nice. Eternabond tape has at least a 10 year life and have heard of it holding up much longer. It is a butyl type of tape.
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