Tina: updates 2018 Intent 31P

[theSane]

Butyl putty applied under and over the rubber roof seam so that it fills the area and is compressed by the cap.

Found some Stone Mason Gutter & Siding Sealant at the local dealership who keeps it on hand for Winnebago warranty work. Filled the edges of the cap all the way around and re-attached the rear screw to tighten down the cap and squeeze the sealant out the edges for a good seal. Then I pressed the cap forward, and used a self tapping washer lathe screw on the side to further secure the cap. It wiggled too much for my comfort with just the one rear screw.

Tomorrow I use the self leveling sealant on the top to finish the job.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by theSane

Butyl putty applied under and over the rubber roof seam so that it fills the area and is compressed by the cap.

Found some Stone Mason Gutter & Siding Sealant at the local dealership who keeps it on hand for Winnebago warranty work. Filled the edges of the cap all the way around and re-attached the rear screw to tighten down the cap and squeeze the sealant out the edges for a good seal. Then I pressed the cap forward, and used a self tapping washer lathe screw on the side to further secure the cap. It wiggled too much for my comfort with just the one rear screw.

Tomorrow I use the self leveling sealant on the top to finish the job.

Good job! Wonder why it got so loose?

[theSane]

I do not know, but I did drive through a lot of heavy winds and a tropical storm last year. One of those was enought to break the thin seal they put down after installing the cap. It is obvious that they only applied the sealant to the outside edges of the cap after securing it in place.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by theSane

I do not know, but I did drive through a lot of heavy winds and a tropical storm last year. One of those was enought to break the thin seal they put down after installing the cap. It is obvious that they only applied the sealant to the outside edges of the cap after securing it in place.

Good FYI. Thanks!
FYI, I’ve also used Flex Seal over the self leveling sealant. The Dicor self leveling stuff leaches, (as they say it’s designed to do), a white powerdish film that streaked down the RV, and especially the front windshield.

The ONLY way I’ve successfully removed that film, is with isopropyl alcohol.

By using the Flex Sealant (paint) over top of the self leveling putty, it’s stopped the annoying windshield streaks.

I also used the Flex Seal tape to make an emergency gasket for the shower, which has since held up.
I think it’s like the etarabond. But Eternabond doesn’t come in paint too…

[theSane]

Last winter ran into a problem with the fridge where the tabs for the door baskets started ripping away from the door, revealing the door insulation. I do not have any before pictures, but here is a picture of the rough "fix".

I took fiberglass cloth cut in small strips and applied it with a 2-part epoxy (JB Weld clear epoxy) to add strength to the bond. Had to sand down the plastic to get the "shiny" off it before applying the epoxy. You can see the result is a little rough, but the door baskets can now use these tabs again. I should go back over this with some sandpaper to smooth out the finish, but I cannot remove too much, or it will rip again. This is my first time using either of these products. Hopefully in the future I will be making a nicer looking repair.


A previous attempt to fix this with gorilla glue failed.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by theSane

Last winter ran into a problem with the fridge where the tabs for the door baskets started ripping away from the door, revealing the door insulation. I do not have any before pictures, but here is a picture of the rough "fix".

I took fiberglass cloth cut in small strips and applied it with a 2-part epoxy (JB Weld clear epoxy) to add strength to the bond. Had to sand down the plastic to get the "shiny" off it before applying the epoxy. You can see the result is a little rough, but the door baskets can now use these tabs again. I should go back over this with some sandpaper to smooth out the finish, but I cannot remove too much, or it will rip again. This is my first time using either of these products. Hopefully in the future I will be making a nicer looking repair.


A previous attempt to fix this with gorilla glue failed.

That same thing happened to our refrigerator at home. Out or warranty, the manufacturer would not help (It was clearly a design flaw in the door). That is until a quart of milk on the door fell, the shelf also fell, and cut my leg (I was wearing shorts). At first, they told me I had too much weight on the door, that it wasn’t designed to hold milk cartons. So I sent them a photo of a picture that was still inside the door, showing the door loaded with two 1/2 gallons of milk. And I sent them a photo of my cut leg. That initiated a personal injury claim, which got the door replaced under strict liability laws. And guess what, the new door had been redesigned. More than one way to skin a cat.

[theSane]

Tried the BBQ smoker felt for the edges of the stove top, and that reduced the squeaks a little, but what has solved the problem is securing the gas piping from the burner to the outlet at the front of the stove.

It is just a loose slip fitting, so I used some silicon repair tape to hold the pipes in place and keep then from moving. It works via compression, so it seemed like the ideal solution to keep them in place. This has finally resolved my squeaking stove issue.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by theSane

Tried the BBQ smoker felt for the edges of the stove top, and that reduced the squeaks a little, but what has solved the problem is securing the gas piping from the burner to the outlet at the front of the stove.

It is just a loose slip fitting, so I used some silicon repair tape to hold the pipes in place and keep then from moving. It works via compression, so it seemed like the ideal solution to keep them in place. This has finally resolved my squeaking stove issue.

Excellent. I’ll check that out. Thanks!