Tank (black, Gray) indicators on newer Winnebagoes

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by JoeC

Sorry, I wasn't able to get the photo oriented properly. The source is correct, but the upload orients sideways. I even rotated the source right 90 degrees and it still shows up on its left side.

As detailed in the post I linked to... it's how you took the photo. The upload process just displays the photo the way you took the picture.

It can be corrected, you have to open it in a photo editor. rotate it correctly and the save the image. Then when you upload it the photo will be correct.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by JoeC

I gave up and upgraded to See Level sensors. Not cheap or easy upgrade but they work. I know within a gallon or two just how much is in my tanks; gray, black, fresh and propane. I mounted the panel over the existing one after doing some metallurgic precision surgery on the old panel and had to do some rewiring of the water pump and water heater LEDs. Not recommended unless you are pretty handy with tools or want to hire someone who is. They would not be cheap labor either.

According to this schematic, of our Intent 26m, the black holding tank might be too thin to get any readings from this system. In the image, it looks as though there’s a larger holding portion near the dump area, but when I’m in there, I don’t see that. Thoughts?
.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

I have begun to like the compressor refrig. When I initially bought this rig, I was going to change it out for gas/electric. But after weighing everything, I decided to spend the extra money in panels etc. The plus side of compressor type is you have more usable room inside.

Thanks for info. I will do some research on them.

And it stays cold—very cold. Talked with a neighbor in the campground that had an new airstream and they said their gas fridge would not keep their ice cream even frozen. I’m a ex chef so I love the extra space and so does my wife.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

According to this schematic, of our Intent 26m, the black holding tank might be too thin to get any readings from this system. In the image, it looks as though there’s a larger holding portion near the dump area, but when I’m in there, I don’t see that. Thoughts?
.

Personally I could not find where the black tank sensors are. 2ndly I see where they are mentioning no metal objects within 1-2"'s ... I see a problem with gray tank sensor location as there is a 1 sq inch bar going across the visible portion of the tank. I just don't know how this system could help us, unless I am not seeing something here.

[YGoHom]

I never had a problem with keeping cold enough in my previous RV’s. Mechanical issues with the fridge, however, were all too common. Thermocouples and mother boards. I kept spares.

Originally Posted by Wyatt

And it stays cold—very cold. Talked with a neighbor in the campground that had an new airstream and they said their gas fridge would not keep their ice cream even frozen. I’m a ex chef so I love the extra space and so does my wife.

[YGoHom]

The black tank sensors are behind a panel in the rear driver side wheel well. There’s 2 metal panels that are riveted on. I took one off to add a black tank flush system, as my INTENT was built prior to Winnebago including it in the newer models.

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Personally I could not find where the black tank sensors are. 2ndly I see where they are mentioning no metal objects within 1-2"'s ... I see a problem with gray tank sensor location as there is a 1 sq inch bar going across the visible portion of the tank. I just don't know how this system could help us, unless I am not seeing something here.

[JoeC]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

According to this schematic, of our Intent 26m, the black holding tank might be too thin to get any readings from this system. In the image, it looks as though there’s a larger holding portion near the dump area, but when I’m in there, I don’t see that. Thoughts?
.

The SeeLevel II uses a sticky backed somewhat flexible transponder. You need to be able to get at the outside of your tank and stick it to one of the sides, after a good cleaning/degreasing, where the fluid level will go from within an inch or two of the top to and about an inch from the bottom. I can't tell what you have by looking at the drawing. If the tank is 6" high or less, accurate readings from any system would be difficult as a slight tilt will drive the liquid one way or another. Most tanks are quite "boxy" and a slight tilt doesn't affect the sensors much. You will need to do some crawling around inside and or outside your RV to find the best locations for the transponders.

My gray tank is smaller at the bottom making the upper section more "forgiving" when you are getting close to full. After all, you probably aren't too concerned if your gray or black tank is 25% or 35% full but getting to 80% - 90%, you will want to closely monitor your water consumption and get serious about finding a dump station. I know that when my fresh water tank indicates empty (0%), I have about 2 gallons left before I'm sucking air and if I tilt the RV to the left, I can get another gallon or so. With the SEELevel II accuracy (moves in about 3% increments), you get to know your tanks' true level after living with it for a while. Sorry I can't help out much more than this. It's kind of like "you got to be there to appreciate it".

Best wishes, good luck and happy camping.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

The black tank sensors are behind a panel in the rear driver side wheel well. There’s 2 metal panels that are riveted on. I took one off to add a black tank flush system, as my INTENT was built prior to Winnebago including it in the newer models.

Thanks for the location info. I will check this out. Yes mine also was built before the tank flusher. So I do the reverse flush from the gray tank by adding another valve. That has a flusher on it, but being so far away, it's not of much use.

[YGoHom]

Yup. Tried that method first. Problems are too much uphill plumbing and too large/relatively flat tank bottom surface. There’s just not enough force of water to move stuff around.
I used the Tornado Flush kit and installed it’s high on the side of the tank as I could.
My dump sequence is now raise the front end to max to get a nice slope. Drain. Tornado with valve closed. Drain. Repeat until clear. Lower the front as I’m filling the storage gallons and drop a pod. Done.
It’s very fast this way and I know it’s clean. Raising the front gives the velocity needed to really empty and it’s much faster than the anemic dribbling when sitting level.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Thanks for the location info. I will check this out. Yes mine also was built before the tank flusher. So I do the reverse flush from the gray tank by adding another valve. That has a flusher on it, but being so far away, it's not of much use.

Absent Backflushing the system, which takes way too much water and too much time, I’ve resorted to a manual flexible wand with a valve holder so as not to damage the toilet seal. It works, gets the tank clean so only clear water runs out, but it’s not ideal. How’s that for old fashioned...

[Morich]

I guess I'm lucky to not had any problems with the gauges since way back, so I have no idea what they even look like any more. I would assume they are no longer mechanical sorts but do any of you folks know what the inside even has in it, now?
I have moved away from using the RV style paper as it is not my fav to find it gone and using my fingers! So part of my plan has always been to keep a tool handy for any time when we did find we build a "tower" and need to flush the tank.
This is my ulitmate tools if/when needed:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
I guess the part I like most is that is has several adjustments and swivels which make it easy to point it in all directions to hit any spot that I feel might be the problem like along the wall where the senors are. I hope it keeps working as well as I have only used it a couple times in the last 5-10 years! That's the type tool I like. One that heads off the gremlins before they even think of getting to me!

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Yup. Tried that method first. Problems are too much uphill plumbing and too large/relatively flat tank bottom surface. There’s just not enough force of water to move stuff around.
I used the Tornado Flush kit and installed it’s high on the side of the tank as I could.
My dump sequence is now raise the front end to max to get a nice slope. Drain. Tornado with valve closed. Drain. Repeat until clear. Lower the front as I’m filling the storage gallons and drop a pod. Done.
It’s very fast this way and I know it’s clean. Raising the front gives the velocity needed to really empty and it’s much faster than the anemic dribbling when sitting level.

Thanks... again.... Yep have to check into installing the sprayer. BTW did notice the two panels above the tandem wheels. Think my are held on with two screws. Did you remove the front most panel to gain access? Were you able to do the install without removing the tires?

[YGoHom]

I think mine were riveted on. I removed the rear most panel. Just raise the rear end with the jacks and you’ll have plenty of room.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

I think mine were riveted on. I removed the rear most panel. Just raise the rear end with the jacks and you’ll have plenty of room.

This is the 1st MH I've had with jack. Have to say they are certainly useful for things like this also. I raise the front a bit to change oil.

Thanks

[DCMac]

TT, 5er, now Vista, all the same. Think these idjit light sensors all made by Electrolux, Hoover or (and probably more likely) some off-brand SinoCommie vacuum cleaner company.

[Westy67]

Originally Posted by JoeC

I removed the original panel and cut a rectangular hole in it to accommodate the mounting of the SeeLevel II panel. I only got the basic sensor panel and kept the original water heater and water pump switches and LED lights, which needed rewiring as they were fed power from the old sensor panel. I had to put resistors in series with the LEDs (I think 1.2k ohm, check with the original resistor values) to drop the voltage from 12 to 3 volts and keep from blowing the LEDs. I have a picture of the finished project and you can write to me (private message) for it as I don't know how to post a .jpg file here, sorry. It blends in fairly well with the original panel but very careful measurements (measure 5 times, cut once) are necessary. Yes, I was a little nervous on this project as it was a bit complicated, even for an old retired electronics engineer.

Best wishes, good luck, and happy camping.

Joey. Thanks for the photo. Your mod looks good. It Blends right in. If you get the panel with the switches, do you think they would require rewiring? I see advantages to both for sure. Still contemplating the best way to go. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. So sorry you missed out on Alaska this year. Hope it works out for next year. It’s all worth it. Even the horrible roads. Just slow down and enjoy the ride
Enjoy every day or you wasted one
Westy67

[JoeC]

Originally Posted by Westy67

Joey. Thanks for the photo. Your mod looks good. It Blends right in. If you get the panel with the switches, do you think they would require rewiring? I see advantages to both for sure. Still contemplating the best way to go. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. So sorry you missed out on Alaska this year. Hope it works out for next year. It’s all worth it. Even the horrible roads. Just slow down and enjoy the ride
Enjoy every day or you wasted one
Westy67

I recommend that you remove the panel and take a peek at what you have. Develop your plan from there. That's what I did. I saw not point in having more dummy switches on the panel; one was enough. You only need to reroute the pump and hot water LED indicator leads, as they pass through the old indicator panel circuit board to pick up their dropping resistors. The easiest way out for me. So I ordered only what was needed; the basic panel.