Solar Panel Addition to Vista 27N - Page 2

powercat_ras · 03-12-2017, 09:47 AM

I will update this thread in next couple of days, with lessons learned and my current solar setup. I have relocated my panels and upgraded # of panels and the charge controller. I have added a shunt based battery monitoring system.

The changes were required as increased my solar capacity and I added a Winegard Trav'ler and it shaded the initial panel #1 location. The AC shroud shaded panel #2 and #3 location as I expanded # of panels working from front to back down the driver's side. Solar panels are made up of groups of 24 solar cells wired in series, and even a small patch of shade kills output to a series group of cells, so locating solar panels so there is no shade from things on the roof of the RV is very important.

I now have all the panels in the rear part of the roof well behind the AC shroud so that any shading issues are minimized.

If I were starting from scratch:

- I would not run cables down thru the front cap and I would not place the charge controller in the front.

- I would run cables down the wall by the bathroom with the thermostat. So far as how to make sure you drill the hole in the correct place, I agree this is a concern. There is a angled removable ceiling access panel in the bath next to that wall, I would take that off and see if it gave enough access to use a 12" drill bit to make the starter hole from below.

- I would put the solar charge controller in the basement near the batteries.

- I would use 160 Watt Solar Modules rather than 100 Watt Solar Modules.

... more to come ...

powercat_ras · 03-16-2017, 04:21 PM

Here is Vista 27N Solar Version 3.0. Now have five "100 watt" Eco-worthy Polycrystalline cell solar modules. Have 100 Watt in quotes because with these mounted flat on the roof of my RV the real usable power since the panels are never oriented dead on facing the sun seems to be about an average of 65 watts each mid-day. Still happy with decision not to invest in a complex system to tilt the panels mainly because tilting puts one into a situation where you have to park the RV a certain orientation so that the tilted up panels are facing south. Where I camp this is often not practical. As I noted in the prior post the current cable run is not how i would do it over from scratch. The cost of the five 100 watt panels including shipping totaled $ 600 with about another $ 80 spent on Z bracket, stainless steel screws, and a tube of Dicor lap sealant.

MIDMONDN · 04-25-2017, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superlucky

I placed 530 watts on my 27n last month. I placed the panels at the back of the rig and drilled a hole just behind the shower vent. This allowed me to drop the wires down the wall that separates the bathroom from the hall.
I am thrilled with the results.

Bill

Hello Bill
Did you add to your battery bank?
If so where did you store extra batteries?

Darryl

powercat_ras · 04-25-2017, 10:31 AM

I bought two group 28 deep cycle batteries and replaced the Winnebago OEM group 24 deep cycle batteries with them. I bought 2 vented battery boxes that fit Group 24 batteries and put them in the front driver's side compartment. I vented the battery boxes out the back wall of the compartment, reusing the OEM Winnebago batteries. I cabled each of the new batteries with separate 1/0 battery cable runs to the current battery compartment.

In the current battery compartment I installed a battery monitoring system with 500 Amp shunt, a 300 Amp battery fuse, and additonal Battery cable junction blocks.

Located a 2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter on the compartment wall directly behind the batteries.

Upgraded to 100 Amp Converter Charger and relocated it to the location where the OEM Xantrex 1000 Watt Inverter was.

All that said, I have seen a Winnebago Vista solar installation where the coach batteries were relocated and upsized in front behind the front cap using custom fabricated battery racking. It was done so that the batteries were on the sides and did not block the airflow for cooling. I don't know who did it but it was done by one of the RV solar installers in Arizona.

superlucky · 04-26-2017, 07:36 AM

I have not added to the battery bank. The amount of solar that I have adds back enough power for my needs. This includes two CPAP machines at night.

We do not use the television much when dry camping, so our power consumption is probably lower than most.

Bill

Dbenn473 · 05-19-2017, 05:54 AM

Bill
I am just embarking on a similar install on my new Vista 27N and have followed this thread with great interest.
Can you provide me with more details on how to remove the angled panel to gain access to the inside wall.
Thanks Dave

Quote:

Originally Posted by superlucky

Hi

I measured over from the skylight and the vents. It was not difficult to determine where the wall was, however it was difficult to make the first cut! After that, it was easy.
My monitor panel is on the wall between the bathroom and the hallway. I removed the panel, which gave me access to the inside of the wall.
I don't have my RV here, but as I recall there was also some type of vent at the bottom of the wall that also gave me access.
The hard part was getting the wires into the bay under the kitchen slide. That is where I put my circuit breakers and charge controllers.

Good luck.
Bill

superlucky · 05-20-2017, 06:59 AM

Debeen473;

I do not recall having to remove that panel. If memory serves me correct, I measured so that the wires dropped directly into the wall.

Measure three times and go for it!

I will be at my RV next week. If you want me to take some pics, let me know

Bill

Dbenn473 · 05-20-2017, 04:22 PM

Randy
Any thoughts on how to remove the angled ceiling access panel on the bath wall
Dave

Dbenn473 · 05-20-2017, 04:24 PM

Thanks. I will call Winnebago and ask them how to remove the angled access panel. I will let you know if I need more info/pix
Dave

MIDMONDN · 05-20-2017, 09:19 PM

my angled panel was held on with 4 screws

Dbenn473 · 05-21-2017, 12:10 PM

I'm making progress thanks to all the help. Got the angled panel off (mine was stapled on) so I now have clear wire access to the back of the sewer/dump compartment. I will use the existing wire exit to get the wire to below the "box". The angled panel also gives me access to drill up thru the roof which will reduce a lot of anxiety about making the right hole in the roof..
My next step is to figure out how best to run the wire to the compartment aft of the batteries where I will put my charge controller. Any recommendations?
Thanks Dave

superlucky · 05-22-2017, 07:29 AM

I will tell you that getting the wires from the bottom of the wall, through the floor and to the batteries was the biggest challenge of the project.
The wall lands on top of a frame structure and you can't get your hand up there. I used a wire "snake" to get it to where I could grab it. There were some swear words involved and, perhaps, a time-out or two. But, It can be done.

I mounted my two controllers (one for the roof array and one for the portable unit) in the bay under the kitchen slide out, just to the left of the door. Removing some of the carpeted panels will give you better access and perhaps give you an idea of where to run the cables.

Bill

MIDMONDN · 05-30-2017, 03:42 PM

I finished up my solar install yesterday and did a complete 2 hour test this morning. I installed 3 160w panels, 40amp charger, 2000w inverter/charger and three new 12v deep cycle batteries. My test couldnt of turned out any better. Early this morning I started with 2 pots of coffee, two blended shakes, 15 minutes of curling iron, 5 minutes of blow dryer, and continuous TV. continuous bathroom exhaust fan. All with plenty of power to spare. Purchased everything but the batteries from AM Solar in Springfield OR.

Dbenn473 · 06-12-2017, 05:19 AM

Congratulations on your installation. I also ordered my supplies from AMSolar and am just starting my install. My Unknown at this point is how to route the 6/0 cable under the Motorhome. I'm bringing the cable down the bath wall which is on the left side of the chassis and need to route it over the driveshaft and exhaust to get it to the forward compartment on the right side. Any suggestions?
Dave

John Hilley · 06-12-2017, 07:44 AM

Install it in split loom or other type of plastic conduit. Try to follow existing cables in chassis frame rails. Be sure to support frequently with tie wraps.

I think you meant 6 gauge wire and not 6/0

GearJerker · 10-05-2017, 05:34 PM

Can you provide a bit more color commentary (how colorful is up to you...)on how you were able to route wires from the bathroom wall to the battery compartment and/or the bay just behind it? We’re in the process of running wires and wanted some insight from someone before we began.

Quote:

Originally Posted by superlucky

I will tell you that getting the wires from the bottom of the wall, through the floor and to the batteries was the biggest challenge of the project.
The wall lands on top of a frame structure and you can't get your hand up there. I used a wire "snake" to get it to where I could grab it. There were some swear words involved and, perhaps, a time-out or two. But, It can be done.

I mounted my two controllers (one for the roof array and one for the portable unit) in the bay under the kitchen slide out, just to the left of the door. Removing some of the carpeted panels will give you better access and perhaps give you an idea of where to run the cables.

Bill

MIDMONDN · 10-06-2017, 07:54 AM

Our 27n has a large grill at the bottom of the wall, with the grill removed, and through an existing hole, I was able to use a FISH TAPE (thats a sprind steel wire that we use in the electrial trade for pulling wire). I was able to push the fish tape towards the rear of the coach. There was a sheet metal cover and outlet that i had to remove to gain access. It takes a little work, but being a retired eletrician this sort of task is something I have done many times.

Hope this helps
Darryl

MIDMONDN · 10-06-2017, 08:04 AM

correction --- I replaced the stock 2000w inverter with a 3000w inverter / charger

superlucky · 10-06-2017, 08:12 AM

As Midmon said, there is a grate (it looks like an air vent) at the bottom of the wall opposite of the stove. I removed that and I also removed the tank level monitor panel.
With those removed, I was able to use an existing wiring hole to run the wires through the floor.
I ran mine forward until there was access to route them towards the passenger side of the coach. (I do remember saying some colorful words)
It is a pain, but the use of a fishtape will help a lot.

Good luck

Bill

powercat_ras · 10-13-2017, 03:03 PM

Here is a photo of the roof, note the radio antenna for the outside entertainment system in the rear of the coach, and the vent for the grey tank right behind the AC shroud. The wall between the bath and the hall is directly under that vent and antenna. That can be a great guide for where to drop solar panel wires.