Slideouts not functioning

[McKenzie]

I'm new in this forum and hope this is ok to post here couldn't find another place OK Problem Slideouts do not operate Coach is a 2000 Itasca Suncruiser Is there a place to add hydraulic fluid? Is there fuses or circuit breakers? Both front and back have quit working. Replaced batteries (3) Could the auxillary batttery switch affect it?
I need HELP!!!!

[BobC]

Originally Posted by McKenzie

I'm new in this forum and hope this is ok to post here couldn't find another place OK Problem Slideouts do not operate Coach is a 2000 Itasca Suncruiser Is there a place to add hydraulic fluid? Is there fuses or circuit breakers? Both front and back have quit working. Replaced batteries (3) Could the auxillary batttery switch affect it?
I need HELP!!!!

You should post this as a new thread with a descriptive subject rather than piggy back on this one. You'll get more responses.

And when you do, be specific about which model 2000 Suncruiser you have, they differ. My 2002 35U is going to be different in many ways from the other 2002 models, etc. We can't answer any of your questions without the specific model and chassis (Ford 6.8L Triton V10 or Workhorse 7.4L Vortec V8).

Without this more specific info, all I can do to answer your questions is:

1. Yes, there's a place to add hydraulic fluid but we can't tell you where without more info..
2. Yes, there are fuses and circuit breakers but we can't tell you where without more info.
3. The slides operate off the engine starting battery and it's best to have the engine running to avoid running down your starting battery. The Aux battery switch shouldn't have any effect but, to be safe, make sure it's "on".

While you're at it, if you go to the User CP (Control Panel) in the toolbar, you can set up a signature block similar to mine so we'll always know what year and model you have. The chassis type is also important in answering your questions about fuses.

As a start, if you don't have it, download the operator manual for your MH. Information on your slides and leveling jacks (both operate off the same hydraulic pump) starts on page 2-15:

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...r-manuals/2000

Note that, if your jacks operate and your slides don't, you've completed your first troubleshooting step. If that's the case, your hydraulic pump is operating, eliminating one possible problem.

You'll note that page 2-16 refers to travel straps, which you may not have. Most of us don't use them even if we have them.

[creativepart]

I moved your post out of that totally unrelated thread and into its very own thread. This should help some.

There are many different kinds of slides. Can you tell us what kind you have? You’ll need to do some digging in your Operator’s Manual. Do you have one in your RV?

Some slides are electric and some are hydraulic. We don’t know which type you have. So, you’ll need to help us help you.

[McKenzie]

Type NPV

Model 1FG35U

Serial # 70G83A243500

2000 Itasca Suncruiser

We have checked all the fuses and replaced one , That one was actually for levelers (and under the dashes board, if there are others where are they, please) 3 brand new batteries, does this give you enough info now to be able to tell me where the hydraulic fluid fuller ? My owners manuel has 2 pages on slides and it mentions both electric and hydraulic, wasn't much help

I apologize I am just figuring out how to do your website and I'm not very teckie

Engine is a 6.8L Triton V10

McKenzie

[McKenzie]

Engine is a 6.8L Trition V10

McKenzie

[BobC]

OK, mine is a 2002 Suncruiser 35U with a Workhorse chassis so your system is similar to mine. According to the parts catalog you have hydraulic slides and jacks.

You never said whether your jacks worked or not. If neither your jacks and slides work and the pump isn't running, topping off the fluid isn't going to fix it, but there's no harm in topping off.

We need to know if your jacks work and, if not, does the pump run when you try to operate the jacks and slides? If you can answer this we can go to the next step.

Here's the info on the pump and fluid reservoir:

The hydraulic pump and fluid reservoir is located under the front hood. It should be down low on the lower left. You should be able to ID it by all the hydraulic hoses attached to it. If you look at pg 20 of the parts manual, you'll see a rectangular box the very front of the vehicle. It's not numbered but is near part #4. This is the pump and reservoir.

There's a fill cap on the top that has an integral dipstick. It unscrews and shouldn't be too tight (and don't over tighten it).

Here's a thread on topping off the reservoir:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...el-357942.html

Try not to overfill but, if you do, it's not a problem, you'll just have a mess under your MH. Therefore put down something on the ground under the pump just in case. Hydraulic fluid is messy and hard to clean up off driveways so don't skimp on what you put down.

I don't want to point you in any more directions until I know about your jacks and if the pump runs or not when trying to activate the jacks or slides.

[McKenzie]

Ok We found the hydraulic reservoir and it is FULL of fluid

When we hit the buttons for the levelers or slideouts all we get is click , click .

[creativepart]

Current models require the parking brake to be set and the RV’s engine to be running for the jacks and slides to operate. And they utilize the chassis battery, not the house batteries to operate both the slides and the jacks.

Back in 2000? I’m unable to say. Hopefully, BobC will chime in on this.

[Morich]

Good point on moving slides or jacks is to always start the engine first as a way to get better voltage to the pump as it is then powered by the engine alternator as well as both battery groups are connected. Kind of gives it the FULL whammie!
When you say you get a "click, click" is kind of might sound like a car trying to start with a weak battery? Those click sounds can be a solenoid trying to connect but when it does, there is not enough power and the solenoid drops off, only to try again to give a another click! Make sure you have good power and see if that cures the clicking?

[BobC]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Current models require the parking brake to be set and the RV’s engine to be running for the jacks and slides to operate. And they utilize the chassis battery, not the house batteries to operate both the slides and the jacks.

Back in 2000? I’m unable to say. Hopefully, BobC will chime in on this.

You're correct in your statement about the parking brake. As Richard commented running the engine is advisable but it's not necessary.

I'm going to bow out for the time being and let Richard take over since my slide problems have been due to hydraulic and mechanical issues, not electrical. I'll continue to monitor this thread in case there's anything I can contribute.

McKenzie-

You'll be in good hands with Richard (Morich). He's very skilled in solving electrical issues, which seem to be to most likely problem. Hopefully it will be something relatively simple. Once things are running, we can sort out any hydraulic issues if there are any.

[McKenzie]

This is what we have done

3 New batteries, Hydraulic fluid reservoir full, Checked all fuses under dash, Ran engine with power booster switch on and brake on
Pushed switch to open slides and just again got a click

What should we check next?

Are there fuses somewhere else that could be for slideouts?
Where can I get a service manual? Manufacturer said they don't have, as I emailed them HELP

[Morich]

A couple small points that may head off some confusion, now or later?

One is on the boost switch, if we are speaking of a dash switch, possibly labeled "boost"?
If that is the one we mean, that should be a momentary switch which you can push when needing to give the start battery a "Boost" if it is a bit weak. Kind of like a set of jumper cables only easy! But when we push the button, the momentary part comes into play and it bounces back to off when we turn it loose, so don't confuse turning it on and it stays on. Just a small point to avoid confusion at some time, maybe?

This operates what is called a "mode solenoid" that is a big relay that connects a battery cable from the start battery and a battery cable from the coach batteries together. Like jumper cables we might use, but there is another point that makes it handy as there is a wire connection from the engine ignition wiring that is only powered when the engine is running. and it also controls the mode solenoid!

That gives us two ways the solenoid closes and connect batteries together, one when we push the button and second when the engine is running. It gives us a way to jump start a weak start battery OR it connects them so that the coach battery can get some charge from the engine alternator as we drive from one campsite to the next!

So the whole idea is that if you pushed the boost switch and let it go, it probably did not stay on, so if you are wanting to use it to boost the weak start battery, remember to hold it as long as you are cranking the engine, then let it go!
But for making sure the slide and jacks have good power, just starting the engine should connect both batteries together without you having to do anything with switches, etc.

I hope that makes some sense but it is not a big thing to worry about and likely not involved with the slides working! Just someday it may be good to know as it is a section that can give trouble on getting the coach batteries to charge while we drive.
Maybe someday you need to know?

But for the slides or jacks, it sounds like there is an electrical problem that is not letting good power get to the motor which pushes the fluid.
I think what you are hearing when it clicks is a different solenoid that is on the pump for the fluid.
Maybe you have had cars that made a click when the battery was weak and we try to start them? That is the same click I think you are hearing on the pump operating!

The starter on a car or the pump both take a lot of power to turn the motors and that means big heavy cables but we can't run those big cables up to the switches on the steering column or to the switch used to make the slides or jacks work. So they use small wires to the switch to tell the solenoid to close the contacts for the big cables.
A solenoid is just a simple switch that is operated by another small switch!
So what I think is happening is that the small switch is getting the message to the solenoid to connect the big cables but those big cables are not putting enough power to the motor to actually work. What I think you are hearing is the solenoid on the hydraulic pump clicking as it shuts but if the pump doesn't run, it is not getting enough power.

So I might suggest checking this idea by having somebody down near the pump, while another turns the key to move the slide or jacks. See if the click is coming from that area? If so, then there is a good chance the problem is simply a dirty connection on the big cable from the battery to the solenoid! The solenoid "could" be bad and burned inside but corrosion or dirty connections is a real problem on RV as they are often underneath and get lots of dirt and water all the time.

If the battery cables still have tape markers on them to help ID them, this is to tell which cable goes to what item. The one with blue tape is the one that needs to be checked all along the route from battery to pump.

But that's only true if I'm guessing right, so don't bet the farm just yet!

[McKenzie]

Thank you and we're off to work on it

[Morich]

Not many of us have taken a long look at the pump and what makes it work so what part is what is often a big mystery for most of us.

But I did come across a drawing that may help to locate some of the parts I mentioned above. It is not the same year but likely to be close to what you have and it may help to locate things.

This has an end view and a side view of the same things. If we think of the solenoid as an electrically operated switch and for some reason that switch is not working, the thing to do is make sure both power and ground are getting to that switch and that the switch/solenoid is getting the signal to close the circuit. I am thinking it is getting the signal and the click you hear is it trying to do it's job.

That leaves two things to check and make sure it is getting power to the solenoid, not corroded cables making it not get the power to pass on through or the contacts inside the solenoid are no longer good enough to pass that power.

This may help find the right parts?
The solenoid should have one or more big battery cables going to it as well as a couple smaller "control" wires coming from the slideout switch area.

Hope that helps a bit?

[BobC]

Richard (Morich)-

Am I correct in my understanding that the pump ground is (or may be) via one of the mounting bolts instead of a wire and this may be corroded causing electrical failure?

[McKenzie]

Yesterday checked all lines under RV and engine compartment, see no signs of leaks on ground
Found some fuses underneath and checked them

Any other ideas?

[McKenzie]

Print out this diagram and will go exploring again Thank you so much

No corrosion is anywhere I can see

[creativepart]

One option is to call the slide/jacks supplier's tech support line.

I assume it's HWH, but you've never said what the brand is for your items.

It's not always fuses, wires and hydraulic fluid you know. You have multiple controllers with circuit boards that can be problems.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by BobC

Richard (Morich)-

Am I correct in my understanding that the pump ground is (or may be) via one of the mounting bolts instead of a wire and this may be corroded causing electrical failure?

Yes! Dirty mounting bolts can be a problem if the specific item is using them for grounding. Lots of the older model motorhomes had mode solenoids using the mounting screw for ground before they started adding a separate ground wire.

But when I think of corroded connections, one of the problems I think of after getting it clean at the battery is where the cables often go for some distance and then may have one of the big fuses inline that we may not even recognize as a fuse.

One on the 2015 Vista gave me a lot of heartache before I discovered the problem. It was a big "Bar" looking item like many on our RV, but it was not in or near the battery compartment but out behind the front wheel in the what we would call the wheelwell if on a car.

Being on the outer side of the frame and about 18" from the front wheel, it gets lots of water, dirt and everything else that might fly off the road.

But the real problem may be that we don't know where it is located, we don't know exactly what it looks like and we may just see a couple bolts with battery cables running in and out and it may even have a rubber cover over the thing to guard against some mechanic getting his tools into the power!

Since it's considered part of the chassis wiring, we don't even get drawings to show it is there. In my case, I had to start with the power not getting from start battery to starter solenoid on the engine and if I did not use the boost switch, all I got was the click, click sound.
From there to the battery, I had at least twelve feet of cable wrapped all around about everything under the RV, so I had to start hunting.

You may have some of those big ones in /near the battery box but you may also have some out and away where they are hidden! They may look like this snip when new and clean but after they are added to a couple bolts and nuts and maybe a cover, then swabbed with everything from mud to asphalt, they may look more like a lump of coal, so look close!

I should have taken a picture of it but by the time I found it, I was too dirty to pick up a camera!

But my cat really thought it was nice for me to spend the day under the RV where she sleeps on hot days! At least somebody enjoyed it??

[McKenzie]

There are 2 large cables to each side of solenoid, 1 side has battery voltage the other side has nothing. When slideout button is pushed solenoid energizes (clicks) at that time we get full battery voltage at the second terminal, however nothing happens
12:12 pm