Shower still gets cold rush!

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I went to your site to see the dimmer switches. I never knew you could comment on on those sites, so I left you a note. Basically I verified that I don't have any ground to my current switches and I don't see how I can possible get ground to 3 of the 4 locations. The one location, I might get a ground is a that switch that is underneath the AirXcel thermostat controller in main hallway. I love Winnebago and they have far exceeded my expectations, but the below are my top 3 pet peeves of my Winnebago which prevents them from making a perfect coach.

1. Zapping cold water in the shower (inexcusable to me) (FIXED)
2. Bright LED lights with no dimmers, worse in that they wired it in a such that you can't even add dimmer (no ground - inexcusable to me)
3. Norcold not being wired to have access to the Magnum Energy Inverter 120vac I think they may have electrical restriction with RVIA
(FIXED)

Thanks for all your help with ye cold water. Thing is, I had that issue with the OEM two handle set, and just installed this new set in that photo. While it could be a bad new faucet, I’m leaning towards a bad back flow valve. It’s a Camco brass valve and probably cheap.

As for the dimmers, they do not NEED to have a ground wire to function, they just function better with a ground wire. One in our bedroom I couldn’t ground either, without ripping the wallpaper. It still dims, but can take 30 seconds sometimes before the dimming function kicks in. It’s almost like it has to “warm up” without the ground. Once it’s on, it’ll dim just fine, and you can turn off the switch and back on and it will dim immediately.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Thanks for all your help with ye cold water. Thing is, I had that issue with the OEM two handle set, and just installed this new set in that photo. While it could be a bad new faucet, I’m leaning towards a bad back flow valve. It’s a Camco brass valve and probably cheap.

As for the dimmers, they do not NEED to have a ground wire to function, they just function better with a ground wire. One in our bedroom I couldn’t ground either, without ripping the wallpaper. It still dims, but can take 30 seconds sometimes before the dimming function kicks in. It’s almost like it has to “warm up” without the ground. Once it’s on, it’ll dim just fine, and you can turn off the switch and back on and it will dim immediately.

No Intent, but for this little Sunstar to shine... I took the Leap of Faith and ordered 4 of them I plan to reuse & pair two of the existing single on/off switches with two of the new on/off dimmers side by side with two on/off switches that are currently on a double gang . If these 4 new dimmer switches can function without issue ( I can live with a 30 sec delay), I may buy more.

[Oakprk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I fix that problem as a byproduct of another issue. I have same gas hot water heater, but getting zapped with cold water in the shower was one of two irritating things about my coach. The other is inability to dim lights, but I digress

Recently, I had a cartridge in one of the twist knobs leaking in the shower, versus replacing the cartridge for the two twist knobs, I bought a single handle faucet fixture made for RVs with backflow. It works a lot better than I expected. The water is not only perfectly warm or hot every time, but you can use the single lever to calibrated temp as well as to cut on / off. Cutting off on the hand sprayer works just the same.

This was easy fix and cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couldn't believe that a single handle control would eliminate the cold blast so I added a check valve to the hot water line also. Both fixes didn't solve the problem.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Oakprk

Couldn't believe that a single handle control would eliminate the cold blast so I added a check valve to the hot water line also. Both fixes didn't solve the problem.

Not sure what coach you have and specifics; but I have a 2019 Sunstar 29VE with 6 gallon gas heater. The single faucet change with the faucet in the my previous link was all I did. It fixed my problem cold water zapping problem and it is easier to set temperature and turn off / on. Believe me ....the cold water zapping was a major PITA, but works great now

I am not seller of the faucets or the designer; so I can't tell you why they work other than what I posted above. It is not clear if you are saying you used the exact same faucet in my the link? There could be other factors, so making two changes (i.e. check valve change) at the same time may not have been best approach (assuming everything else is equal).

Also, thanks to Wyatt, my other problem was also solved, where I wanted the controls to dim the lights. My coach was way too bright at night or way too dark. I spent $400 as a DIY and I now have 8 dimmers that work perfectly. So in my case and for my coach, I have fixed the two things that irritated me the most about my otherwise perfect Winnebago RV

Good luck and if you need any pictures or any more details about my setup let me know. But if our coaches are different, that may be a factor & why your results may not be the equivalent as mine? Remember, I didn't buy a faucet to fix cold water zapping. I bought a faucet versus replacing the leaking cartridges because I didn't like the two knob fixture anyway. During my research; I saw where some reviewers said it fixed their cold water rush; so it was a no brainer for me to try.

Note: The possibility exist that my coach was never suppose to Zap cold water by design, but maybe my old faucet was defective and when I replaced with a new fixture it went away. Either way the new faucet in the link fixed my problem and it was very cheap.

[Oakprk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Not sure what coach you have and specifics; but I have a 2019 Sunstar 29VE with 6 gallon gas heater. The single faucet change with the faucet in the my previous link was all I did. It fixed my problem cold water zapping problem and it is easier to set temperature and turn off / on. Believe me ....the cold water zapping was a major PITA, but works great now

I am not seller of the faucets or the designer; so I can't tell you why they work other than what I posted above. It is not clear if you are saying you used the exact same faucet in my the link? There could be other factors, so making two changes (i.e. check valve change) at the same time may not have been best approach (assuming everything else is equal).

Also, thanks to Wyatt, my other problem was also solved, where I wanted the controls to dim the lights. My coach was way too bright at night or way too dark. I spent $400 as a DIY and I now have 8 dimmers that work perfectly. So in my case and for my coach, I have fixed the two things that irritated me the most about my otherwise perfect Winnebago RV

Good luck and if you need any pictures or any more details about my setup let me know. But if our coaches are different, that may be a factor & why your results may not be the equivalent as mine? Remember, I didn't buy a faucet to fix cold water zapping. I bought a faucet versus replacing the leaking cartridges because I didn't like the two knob fixture anyway. During my research; I saw where some reviewers said it fixed their cold water rush; so it was a no brainer for me to try.

Note: The possibility exist that my coach was never suppose to Zap cold water by design, but maybe my old faucet was defective and when I replaced with a new fixture it went away. Either way the new faucet in the link fixed my problem and it was very cheap.

I don't know why my signature didn't show up but I have a 2019 Adventurer 27N so my plumbing is identical to yours and I did install the exact same manufacturers single handle control. The fixture is too inexpensive to have any type of pressure regulation mechanism inside so if the physics of fluid dynamics still exist in the universe, there shouldn't be any difference in what happens where a hot and cold water source, with different pressures meet. Your Sunstar must be performing miracles!


BTW, did you replace the toggle switches in a ganged configuration with the dimmer switches? I would love to do that for two of the three switches I have ganged.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Oakprk

I don't know why my signature didn't show up but I have a 2019 Adventurer 27N so my plumbing is identical to yours and I did install the exact same manufacturers single handle control. The fixture is too inexpensive to have any type of pressure regulation mechanism inside so if the physics of fluid dynamics still exist in the universe, there shouldn't be any difference in what happens where a hot and cold water source, with different pressures meet. Your Sunstar must be performing miracles!


BTW, did you replace the toggle switches in a ganged configuration with the dimmer switches? I would love to do that for two of the three switches I have ganged.

From perspective of my worry in buying my 1st RV almost two years ago, I would say thus far my RV (Sunstar 29VE) and Winnebago has been a miracle Knock on wood.

Not sure how the plumbing in a 27N and 29VE are the exact same; but I will take your word for it. I think we looked at 27Ns... if so; I could never get past the location of main TV behind slide and I don't recall if it had outdoor kitchen?

I can't help you on your cold zapping other than this thread for what I did. Sorry it did not work for you, but you stated you made another change so if you familiar with DOE, when debugging it is one variable at a time. But one point, I must make sure it is clear, that I did not buy my faucet to fix the cold water zapping. I bought because I wanted new single handle fixture and my unit was leaking, when I researched there were a few reviews where some one stated it fixed their cold water zapping? I don't know what kind of coach they had. So I just got lucky. We had a pluming leak in the house this morning so the water has been off in the hose all day. We took showers in the RV and the water temperature stays constant

The more you probe / question, it makes me wonder if EVERYONE with a 27N or 29VE get zapped with cold water in the Shower with their factory install? I know we did Your logic would suggest that I am still getting zapped with cold water Or you believe that I was NEVER getting Zapped with cold water to begin with If I wasn't getting Zapped what is different from my OEM install vs your ?

On Dimmer Switches,

I will try to find the link, I uploaded pictures of all of dimmers that I installed. I used both types double gang and single gang. Both require me to cut a larger hold in the RV and I bought a special Oscillating tool ( Dremel to do that) I was originally only wanting to do 2 but once I got going; I did 8 switches My total cost including 2 tools and blades was $400.

I found link for Dimmer Switches, let me know if you have any questions. The key was finding the proper ground for each switch. I did the job over a 2 - 3 weeks span so I just took my time, but they are awesome.

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3897392

My Pet Peeves from my OEM design that are now fixed to my pleasure.

1. Norcold Fridge is now on Inverter circuit so I have more flexibility. Use it all the time when driving now
2. Shower no longer zaps with cold water after pausing to lather and restarting water with shower handle switch
3. Coach is no longer either all dark or too bright in any particularly areas. I dimmed everything except, outside Patio light, light over inside step up to RV, light over stove (already dimmed), light in small bedroom window / desk.
4. Switched to Grp 31 V-tank Pure AGM Solar batteries 250ah
5. Added Spare tire (Goodyear no wheel) underneath the bed