Sealing the Windshield

[benhamliz]

Happy New Year to all!
I am concerned about the windshield of my 1993 Winnebago Vectra. I am the 3rd owner with not much info from the 2nd owner so I think the seal is original.
I am worried that the seal may be old and that it could be unsafe.
Unfortunately non of the RV service companies want to work on a RV older than 10 years so this has left me with doing many repairs on my own or with some mobile RV helpers( and from this forum group)
Can I simply reseal with any commercial product such as the clear product form the "flex seal guy?"
I actually have had much success with Gorilla tape which has done a wonderful job on the rusty compartment doors but the black tape is not feasible for the windshield. At the same time I should also reseal all the windows too.
BTW I have had a new sealcoat put on the roof so am not worried about any leaks there.
Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

[tim myers]

Call some windshield replacement companies near you and find one that will look at your Motor Home in the parking lot. Most systems are very similar. That being said, I am not familiar with your coach.

[BobC]

Progressive insurance referred me to a Safelite subcontractor that recently replaced one side of my two-part windshield due to rock damage (covered by insurance) and removed and re-sealed the other. Note that removing and re-sealing is not without risk but my seals had totally failed, both windshields were coming loose from the frame and were at risk for falling out. The incremental, out-of-pocket cost was $500 for removing and resealing the undamaged side. Here's a link to my windshield post:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...od-362778.html

You can test the seal by gently pushing on the windshield from the inside. It's best to remove the plastic fascia pieces from the inside of your windshield so you can see what's happening. If it's solid, you should be OK. If it's solid but you have any leaks, I'd go with Gorilla tape. In addition to black and white, it comes in a clear version although I've never used it. Start with it just across the top. Prior to my recent experience, I'd used Eternabond across the top which solved my leaks but it was a pain to remove. If it's loose like mine, I'm not sure that it can be re-sealed without removal, etc. but there's no harm in contacting a local shop specializing in RV windshields to find out. Here's one that has a shop in your area:

https://mobilervglass.com/

Note that availability of replacement glass for your MH might be an issue so proceed carefully.

And tape, whether it's Gorilla or Eternabond, isn't going to add appreciable strength to the existing seal. It's just a leak deterrent. I know nothing about Flex Seal but, from what I see online, it looks like there's a lot of hype.

You might also want to read up on Winnebago's rusty windshield frame issues here in Winnieowners. There are also some Youtube videos. If your frame is rotting away from rust (a definite possibility in your area), you're in for a major repair. My MH was originally from FL and it had the major repair done by a PO, albeit it wasn't properly rust-proofed afterward as noted in my earlier post. You can access the inside of your windshield frame for inspection by removing your plastic fascia pieces from the inside of your windshield. I'd bet that Mobile RV Glass's local shop will be knowledgeable of the rust issue.

[benhamliz]

Thank you Bob C or this great suggestion. I will contact a few companies.
I presume you mean they could undo and then reseal the windshield?
Hopefully that may be possible and the best option.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by benhamliz

Thank you Bob C or this great suggestion. I will contact a few companies.
I presume you mean they could undo and then reseal the windshield?
Hopefully that may be possible and the best option.

They can, but there’s a significant risk of breakage for which they’re not responsible. That’s why I mentioned that the availability of replacement glass is critical. I was lucky plus my seals were so bad removal wasn’t as difficult as it could have been.

[Bo Walker]

We owned a 1993 Winnebago Brave once when we lived in Tallahassee, Florida. While driving on a trip my copilot noticed a crack in the driver's side windshield which continued to crack from the top all the way to the bottom. I had a local glass company replace the windshield and while doing so, they noticed a support hidden behind the front body below the windshield was rusted to the extent of collapsing, which increased the pressure on the glass causing the crack. To my surprise, they were able to repair it and install the new windshield. I never had any problem with the windshield afterwards.
So far as resealing your windshield, I can't give any useful advise.
Good luck!

[LizandBruce]

If you want to do it yourself and do it right, then do not use silicone or flex seal. Neither can hold up to the UV and other things. This is what pros use - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RW1XCK...lig_dp_it&th=1

I use it to reseal my side windows when they become foggy. But if I were you I would contact pro glass replacement shops. Look for shops that replace big rig glass.

[BobC]

Just remember, nothing you can do from the outside is going to re-adhere a loose windshield. There's a big difference between re-sealing for leaks and re-mounting.

Personally, I recommend at least trying the tape method before using any "goop" to re-seal for leaks. It's generally just as effective, a lot less messy and is easily reversible.

[Rick 99037]

When I got our class A a couple years ago, I soon discovered the compartment above the driver showed long-term water damage. Since the glass was intact, I knew it was something about the seal. I didn't have a problem finding a glass place that worked on them, but they emphasized that they accepted no responsibility if the broke it, and their quote to replace it if successful was not cheap ether. Then she suggested I claim it as broken to get it fixed. I'm sorry, that's insurance fraud!
I went home and broke out a couple ladders and a plank, and went to work. It was the classic Winnie problem, where water sat on top of the seal, and over time created a rusty break between the window frame, and the rubber sealer. Since it was over a foot and a half long, it had been ignored for some time. I'm sure taking off the glass, prepping it all, and putting the glass back in would have been best, and longest solution. But I just worked in the very obvious gap, scraping the surface rust, spraying it with at rust stabilizer product, priming and repainting the metal. Then I cleaned the gap with a 2-man operation of pulling a rag back and forth in the gap. Then I bought a black neoprene calk who's specification's were listed as a highly flexible, pliable adhesive, and filled it all up, as best I could, and hoped for the best. So far, so good. I don't discount it will happen again, but at 72, I'm thinking it's not on my watch.