Roof Separation Issue 2004 Journey 36G

RVMJR52 · 01-10-2025, 06:13 AM

So noticed roof separation while washing coach for next trip. I have been up on the roof about 3 times for maintenance in the 7 years that I have owned the coach. Can I still pursue a eternabond tape repair to secure the edge?

Jim_HiTek · 01-11-2025, 02:24 PM

I believe so as I had a small section pull out like that. Mine wasn't as bad as your picture shows. All I did was stuff it back into place using a wide blade plastic putty knife on a warm day with lots of sunshine so it was a bit more pliable then if it were cold weather.

Also cleaned the roof, rinsing out the channels, let it dry, than scrubbed the channel area with a bristle brush. Than installed 2" Eternabond from the bottom of the channel up over the radius. I caught my roof peeling off early as I only had that short section that had popped out, but I've read of others that have used Ebond even when it was the entire side. Wrote an ad free article about it here: Roof Edges...

Here's the thing though...even Ebond won't hold if you are repeatedly racking the RV up/down a poor road or driveway. If your favorite get away RV'ing spot has a bad approach road, the roof will likely still pull away, even from the Ebond. In my estimation, reading, and discussing with other RV'ers, I think Ebond is the easiest and most reliable method though. Mine still looks and works great after 7 years since install.

Here's how it looks though this section the workers didn't get it all the way down to the bottom of the channel. Still works though.

BobC · 01-12-2025, 10:27 AM

I'm a fan of Eternabond for this purpose but I think it's important to seal the edges to the extrusion by the usual method of caulking first and use Eternabond as an additional line of defense. There are innumerable posts on Winnieowners on what caulking to use along with what AZ Expert is currently using in his Youtube videos:

https://www.youtube.com/@AZExpert/se...nnebago%20roof

In any case, you won't want to drive your MH until this is fixed.

**creativepart** · 01-12-2025, 04:30 PM

Here is a specific Winnebago roof repair playlist from AZ Expert on YouTube.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...2JGqEwpKTWisDw

Driving your motorhome with your roof like that risks wind lifting the Filon roof material and ripping a big portion of the roof right off of your RV. It must be fixed before you drive the RV anywhere.

BobC · 01-12-2025, 05:50 PM

Full disclosure: AZ Expert isn't a fan of Eternabond, and it is tough to remove. I look at it as a belt-and-suspenders solution. Also, if you're going to reapply it, it's not that tough to remove since it's OK to reapply over the sticky residue, that's the tough part of removal.

RVMJR52 · 01-13-2025, 06:32 AM

Thanks for your advice. Good therapy actually. Just finished a six week trip out west with two engine repairs - alternator replacement and overheating issue - so seeing the roof separation was like an ‘“is this worth it anymore “ moment. Going to get a couple of local rv roofers estimates. The FLEXARMOR investment is a distant maybe.
Thanks again.

cruizerEd · 01-16-2025, 09:28 AM

Don't drive like that and keep away from big winds. Your are close to disaster. It is very fixable as it is now but if that filon tears you'll have to get a new roof or make some big compromises in repairing it.

AZ experts has some good explanations but I do not like the ProFlex product.
I used it and deteriorates very quickly from UV. I actually contacted AZ Experts and there response was to just keep replacing it.

That is a major PITA.

Fortunately I used screen door spline inserted between the roof and the gutter rail to create an even deep pocket for the ProFlex so even though the top is deteriorating the product deep into the gutter is holding fine.

If you watch AZ experts they insert the Proflex and the let the roof push most of it out leaving only a very thin layer and a tiny bead at the top.

IF instead you put screen door spine down into the junction it creates a small gap that can be about 3/4 inch deep. You can inject all the sealant you want and it wont block the gutter and you'll have a lot of material holding the roof.

If I need to do it again I'll seek out a sikaflex product. All of the Sikaflex products have been very durable with good UV stability.

BobC · 01-16-2025, 09:39 AM

I second the screen door spline recommendation. My 2005 35U has it but I don't know if it's OEM or added by a PO. I replaced it when I re-sealed mine before covering everything with Eternabond.

Jim_HiTek · 01-16-2025, 10:09 AM

The spline is an OEM fix...or rather was for a short time...by Winnebago. It was during that period when their roof cutting machine or supplier was cutting the roofs around 1/4" less wide than they were supposed to be, leaving them 1/8th" short on either side. Rather then toss them, Winnie decided to install them anyway. That lead to a bunch of warranty claims when the roofs popped out when flexed, the wind caught them and ripped sections off. Winnie only used this method for a couple years. Here's their drawing:

But the problem with the spline and caulking is the same with just the caulking...if you rack the vehicle to much or to often, the roof is likely to pull out or break the bond between the caulking and roof. Might take 1 week, might take 10 years, might be never if you inspect and re-caulk every 6 months. It's so random, depending on so many factors that it's unpredictable. Depends on the quality of the caulking, quality of the installation, prep of the bonding surfaces, number of times owner racks the vehicle, so it's not easy to predict.

I use Eternabond for the protection it gives from racking and the fact that it doesn't just peel off and away after a few years like caulking does (mine did, long strips of caulking just gave up and peeled off the roof, and that's when I moved to Ebond). It's pliable enough that it stretches a bit when racked. Not much, but very likely much more likely to retain it's grip than caulking will. Biggest advantage is that I don't need to inspect every 6 months and re-caulk, ever.

PS Ebond comes off easily with the application of heat, like from a hair dryer. New Ebond can be reapplied over a seam that the Ebond detached from so cleaning is needed but spots of Ebond adhesive can be left in place. I had that happen to the Ebond I installed over the rear end cap seam years ago. In the cold and damp within minutes of a huge rainstorm. Two years later it was peeling off. Pulled it up and cleaned the surface some, and on a nice warm day, reapplied Ebond to that seam. It's been nearly 8 years now, still holding fast.

**creativepart** · 01-16-2025, 10:43 AM

Winnebago’s roof structure is a constant sore point. Yet they show zero interest in changing/fixing the system. I hoped that when building a new Class A factory in Iowa, after the fiasco of moving Class A production to Oregon, that they’d adopt sister company, Newmar’s fiberglass roof process… but no luck. So, I guess we’re stuck with this failed roofing system forever.

My 8-yr old coach has a lot of caulk cracking at the drip rail, and if I push on the Filon just above the drip rail I see some movement, so it’s time to recaulk this summer. I’m thinking I’ll use either Manus Bond or Silkaflex. My coach is painted dark gray, almost black, so the OEM caulk is black. I hate working with Manus Bond but it’s very durable.