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Old 11-01-2020, 10:55 AM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
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Removing and replacing ATS 0n 2014 Sightseer

I lost 110v power from my home shore power panel, and tracked the bad actor to the Automatic Transfer Switch. The ATS is a Progressive Dynamics 52. FWIW, with shore power on I could depress the shore power contact switch in the panel and gain momentary 110v inside the coach, but I could also hear the contact points arcing.
I've ordered a replacement online, should be here Thursday.
Question to the forum: anybody out there tackled this before? Any gremlins I need to know about?
Thanks in advance, Jack.
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Old 11-06-2020, 06:23 AM   #2
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I found the problem inside the ATS box. The black wire input leg from shore power had shorted, and as a result the wire was melted at the switch power input screw. Further, the AT1 hot wire to the control circuit board also melted, but did not destroy the printed circuit board. The heat from the failure discolored the galvanized metal box cover and scorched the wiring diagram label on it.
Remarkably, the generator side of the switch still functioned normally and provided normal 110v power to the coach.
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Old 11-06-2020, 06:35 AM   #3
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some lessons learned so far: the grounding bar screws are square or flat screwdriver faced.

The power input screws are 4mm hex drive faced. You can break the torque with an allen wrench, although with some difficulty due to positioning, but I bought a hex drive bit set for the replacement phase.

I could not find 8-gauge crimp ferrules for the braided wire, so I am in the process of soldering the wire ends on the shore power cord. I had to trim back the ends of the wires about 3 inches to remove the damaged insulation, hence the soldering chore.
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Old 11-06-2020, 09:51 AM   #4
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The project is complete. The new transfer switch runs as advertised, with a slightly faster engagement time when changing from shore to generator power.
I found it worked well to wire the shore power cord and the distribution cords outside the coach. The left me with the generator cord and four mounting screws under the compartment.
The total repair bill was $170 plus about three hours of my time (90 minutes each to remove and replace), and $15 at O'Reilly's for a hex driver bit set.
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