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Old 01-23-2020, 09:48 PM   #1
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Refrigerator water leak

Our residential fridge in 2016 Adventurer 37F with an ice maker and filtered water outlet. It seems to be intermittently leaking water. We are on the road right now so I just want to turn the water off then worry about a permanent fix when we get back home. I have looked in the access panel outside and it looks like the supply line comes from over near the kitchen sink. But I can't find a shut off valve under there.
I have looked through the manual and at the plumbing diagram online and can't figure out where to shut the water off. Does anyone know where it is?
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:14 PM   #2
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Just as a heads up for anyone that may need to know this. I finally figured out the shut off valve is under the sink behind the panel where you stow the sink counter top covers.
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Old 01-25-2020, 08:29 PM   #3
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Some residential refrigerators have an ice maker water line exposed on the back side of the refrigerator.

If so, it's possible the bottom 6" of the plastic water line is cracked from the heat in that area or maybe it's just the end of the compression fitting you need to replace?

If you know your water leak is intermittent, then maybe the line is cracked somewhere?

Maybe you can check the plastic water line from your rear inspection panel (if you have one) and you might be able to fix it easily. (You will need a 1/4" copper compression fitting, but you can reuse the nut.)

Also if you have a door ice and water dispenser, you water line brake could be in door.

Is your leak coming from the front or the back of the refrigerator? And is it only there when you use your water fill option? (If you have one?)
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Old 01-26-2020, 09:26 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Some residential refrigerators have an ice maker water line exposed on the back side of the refrigerator.

If so, it's possible the bottom 6" of the plastic water line is cracked from the heat in that area or maybe it's just the end of the compression fitting you need to replace?

If you know your water leak is intermittent, then maybe the line is cracked somewhere?

Maybe you can check the plastic water line from your rear inspection panel (if you have one) and you might be able to fix it easily. (You will need a 1/4" copper compression fitting, but you can reuse the nut.)

Also if you have a door ice and water dispenser, you water line brake could be in door.

Is your leak coming from the front or the back of the refrigerator? And is it only there when you use your water fill option? (If you have one?)


Thanks for the tips. I do have a rear access panel and I have felt along the lines and the back of the fridge as far up as I can reach. There has not been any water that I could feel. Only once when I opened that access panel was the floor wet.
I don't have the water and ice in the door, but the water dispenser is on the inside along the left side wall. It is pretty frustrating because it is intermittent, and even after I found the valve and turned it off. The next morning there was water on the floor.
Of course right next to the fridge is the washer and dryer.
I just a couple weeks ago had to repair the dryer, so I had to open the access panel i n the closet to unplug the dryer. I did check out the water connections for the washer while I was in there and everything looked good.
I will take another look in there today and run the washer so I can make sure it's not leaking anywhere.
I just hope to stop the leak and prevent any serious floor damage on that big slideout until we get back home in April and I can make repairs while not living in the coach.
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Old 01-29-2020, 05:23 PM   #5
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I installed a Samsung Res Fridge in my 09 Journey in 2014. If you have a res fridge, you should insure you can access the rear compartment. In it is the icemaker solenoid, the supply line to the solenoid and tubing to the freezer.
I have to drain my system to winterize it. I ended up replacing the solenoid in the spring for 4 years. If you must winterize, you need to remove the solenoid and disconnect and blow out the supply line and disconnect the line to the freezer at the solenoid output and let it gravity drain. I also remove the solenoid, 1 electrical connector and the two lines - and gravity drain both water connections and store the drained solenoid in the coach over the winter. The solenoid seems to be an industry standard so it is easy to get or replace. Good luck,
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Old 01-29-2020, 06:21 PM   #6
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glad you found the shutoff. if it happens try lifting the ice maker bail. that should also shut off the flow to the ice maker.
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Old 01-29-2020, 09:26 PM   #7
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Thanks
I will check that out when I get home. So what does this solenoid look like and where is it located?
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Old 01-29-2020, 09:46 PM   #8
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the bail is the piece of metal that hangs down over the ice tray. swivel it UP to shut off the ice maker, swivel it down to turn it on. when ice comes in contact with the bail ice production ceases.
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Old 01-30-2020, 08:22 AM   #9
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Refrigerator Leak

Check your drip tray below the cold plates on top of 1st level, mine were plugged with debris & would spill water down inside back wall when in defrost cycle, took me 2 years to find problem with numerous tech hours at repair shop with no results. Finally discovered problem when winterizing rig. Ruined portion of carpet. Make sure food debris does not accumulate during your travels & blow out plastic drip tray line from outside vent of rig behind refrigerator.
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Old 01-30-2020, 04:40 PM   #10
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Our OEM Norcold failed, so we replaced the refrigerator mechanism, but kept the original Norcold ice box. About a year later, we had intermittent water problems. Long story short, there is an original 25-cent fiber elbow at the back side of the ice box (where you can not see it) that got old and brittle and cracked. Every time the ice maker filled, there would be a water leak. The failed plumbing piece is between the ice maker water valve/solenoid and the interior of the freezer compartment.

By the time we figured out the source of the problem, the fiberglass insulation in the ice box walls became wet and moldy. We had to buy a complete new refrigerator because of that 25-cent elbow.

The door seals on the original ice box started to fail because of old age. Can't buy just the seals from Norcold. Must buy entire door assembly at $1000 each.

We now recommend that if your Norcold refrigerator fails, either buy an entire new refrigator for $5000 (not just the $2000 rear refrigerator mechanism), or install a residential refrigerator for about $1500. You could go a long ways towards bigger battery bank and state of the art converter with the cost difference of $3500.
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Old 01-31-2020, 02:21 AM   #11
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OP, although it will be spring when you get to really work on it, be sure to let us know what you found. Thanks


jeanbev, you bring up a good point. I also had intermittent water on the floor and found that my drip tray was not connected to the rubber plug/outlet in the back of the fridge. I hooked it back up and no more problem. However, I never thought about where that water may drain nor to check and make sure the line is clear. Do you know were it drains? I'll blow mine out when we get back home.


As a point of information. The water in my tray freezes regularly. About once a week I remove a 3' long icicle.
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