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Old 02-21-2019, 03:32 AM   #21
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Sameo Sameo.

That awesome news. My adventure has been doing this for about 6-8 months. I'll be sure to top off the fluid level.
My opinion on ATF vers. Hydro fluid. It was my impression that both work as a hydraulic system and work at hydraulic pressures. The only real difference was ATF has a swelling chemical and would swell up like "0" rings. If the slave cylinder is leaking, I would think ATF would be hitting 2 birds with one stone.
PS. Mine is out of warranty so I'll use the red juice.
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Old 02-21-2019, 05:13 AM   #22
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They are basically the same. I read somewhere in HWH docs that they recommend HWH fluid because it is not pink, therefore simplifying the task of identifying and eliminating leaking components. If you’ve ever had a leak near where transmission lines and jack or slide out mechanisms co-mingle, it can simplify the process of troubleshooting. Been there, though I use atf in mine.
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:37 AM   #23
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I had 2 jacks that took forever to retract and go into travel mode on my 2011 Journey 40U. I had one replaced as it would take 5 minutes to go up an inch or two. The other went up most of the way, and if left long enough would retract - but generally I "helped" it using a small scissors jack. The last time I left it in retract mode for about 15 minutes and the travel warning lights went on and the jack down alarm stopped (I retract with the motor running). After driving for an hour, warning light/alarm came on. I pulled over and took my scissors jack to it and moved it up no more than a 1/4" - warnings all off. I will be changing the springs out when I return home and see if that helps, but it does seem as the jack position is fairly touchy on my MH. I have been careful not to push it too far up as I don't want to damage a seal, but I will also carry the scissors jack, just in case.
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:57 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FishBear View Post
They did caution about putting too much in... a little at a time. It worked and the leak continued, although slowly.
Although it's best to not overfill, it's not dangerous to do so. The tank's breather cap will vent any excess. Of course this creates a bit of a mess but it isn't damaging. Not only have I read this in HWH manuals, I've (unintentionally) tested it and have the spot in my driveway to prove it.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:00 AM   #25
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My '02 HWH system does not prevent me from driving off even with the Jack Down signal beeping merrily along with road noise. The road vibration soon brings the recalcitrant jack to full up.

Normally though, I just pull in the slides, press retract for the jacks, start the engine, and while it airs up, tour around the RV & toad making sure I didn't forget anything . They're all up by the time I get back inside.

Back before I changed the springs from the originals to the recommended replacements (per HWH), I carried a 1"X2"X6' stick and a short 2"X4" I used to make a lever. I still carry it but haven't needed it since I installed the upgraded springs.

BTW, KevinBrown01, if your warning light comes on after you drive an hour, that sounds different than just weak springs, sounds like a leak in a check valve somewhere in the system, or a faulty level sensor in the fluid tank, if you have no other leaks.

IF it's an HWH jack system, perhaps you should contact AZPete and ask for his advice.
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Old 02-23-2019, 03:26 PM   #26
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Obviously different systems require different oils. My HWH system owners manual calls for HWH oil, or type A ATF. Some oils are not compatible either.

Do not depend upon what a different year, make, model MH calls for; READ YOUR MANUAL!
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:36 PM   #27
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Like many of you I experience the dreaded "jacks down" alarm while on the freeway. I happened to be heading home and my route took me past my dealer. He took a quick look, added some ATF and away I went. I noticed there was no indicator on the reservoir to indicate full so I marked that level with a sharpie.
I later had two of the jacks replaced and they were leaking a wee bit.
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:37 PM   #28
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Another trick is to spray the jack shafts (when down) with WD 40 then wipe them down - don't leave the WD 40 on them. This will clean them and save the wiping seals. I found that even parked for 2 weeks in Palm Springs there would be sand on the shafts (like sandpaper).,
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:39 AM   #29
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Winnebago used several different jack systems. The Jacks down indicator on my LCI jacks are pressure driven, not level driven. Some are microswitch driven. I have a drifting jack because of an o-ring issue, but it doesn't leak to the outside. Fluid level has never helped mine, rather I have to exercise them to get them heated to expand the o-ring, then they behave.

At the GNR, Lippert explained a simple method to identify the jack system:
If the Jacks have:

2 springs = HWH
1 spring = PowerGear (even though they are now LCI)
no spring = Lippert (LCI)
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meridian42e View Post
Winnebago used several different jack systems. The Jacks down indicator on my LCI jacks are pressure driven, not level driven. Some are microswitch driven. I have a drifting jack because of an o-ring issue, but it doesn't leak to the outside. Fluid level has never helped mine, rather I have to exercise them to get them heated to expand the o-ring, then they behave.

At the GNR, Lippert explained a simple method to identify the jack system:
If the Jacks have:

2 springs = HWH
1 spring = PowerGear (even though they are now LCI)
no spring = Lippert (LCI)
That is not true, HWH also builds a double-acting jack = hyd pressure both directions = no springs.
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