Power Door Lock Issue

[Rwsward]

We have a 2004 Vectra. The power door lock for the entry door has started to act up. The buttons to unlock the door (including the remote buttons) work, however the lock buttons do not work. I have cleaned the connections and since the unlock function works, leads me to believe that the connects are OK. Has anyone encountered this problem? Does anyone have any suggestions on how to solve it? I’ve tried replacing the actuator which obviously did solve my problem since I’m posting this request for help.

Thanks

[emiddleb]

Cleaning the contacts was the first thing to try, the most common fix. Despite your posting (typo?) of "replacing the actuator which obviously did solve my problem" I'm assuming it didn't.

Next thing I'd try is locating the SCS Frigette control box and ensuring all the connections are good. It's located in the fuse bay (front/left) under the driver's seat area. You need to remove a couple screws on the right side of the panel where all the fuses are located and then open it... it's actually a hinged door. Inside you should find the control box (as well as your Surround Sound box for the stereo system.)

Now a couple questions: when you try to lock your doors, do the clearance lights flash? Also, are you having the same issue with the bays lock/unlock, or only the door?

[Rwsward]

Hello Ed & Joie,
Thank for your comments. I'm glad you were able to decipher my original post. To answer your questions first, the clearance lights do flash when I try to lock and unlock the entry door. Also, the cargo locks work, both lock and unlock.
I opened the cabinet you suggested but did not see anything clearly marked as SCS Frigette control box. There was a box labeled "Custom Engineered Vehicle Security", attached is a photo. When I press the remote lock or unlock button, there is a clicking noise coming from this box. Is this the SCS Frigette control box? I checked the plugs and they looked tight.




Thanks again for your comments

[emiddleb]

Yes, that is the control box for the entry system.

With lights flashing and bays working, things are a bit easier to diagnose. The lock/unlock functions for the bays/door each a separate wire (4 total.) Since only one thing has failed, there is hope that it's just a wiring issue and not a board issue. At this point you'll probably have to use a multimeter to check voltage. The white/pink wire on the large plug at the bottom is the "12v to door lock relay" wire, should be 3rd from the end on the side that has no wire in the first connection. If you see a 12v pulse at that connection when you hit the door lock control, then the board is sending out the right voltage and the problem is downstream. If no 12v, then its the board. I think there is a relay involved somewhere downstream but I'm not sure.

It might be a pain to diagnose, but be advised that this system is fully orphaned. They went out of business in 2009 and no replacement parts are available anywhere.

[emiddleb]

And another thing to try... digging a bit in my hinged panel I found a bank of relays at the bottom back. Among other, the two on the left are labeled "Door Lock" and "Door Unlock." I suspect they are wired to the Frigatte system as well as the interior switches. You might try swapping the two and see if your problem migrates. You might also try listening to them as you try to lock/unlock the door, not sure if you will hear them click or not. If they do both click, or swapping doesn't migrate the problem (i.e. now can lock but not unlock the door) then you'll know the problem is further downstream in the wiring.

[Rwsward]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will give that a try this evening when I get home.

[Rwsward]

Hello Emiddleb,

Thanks for your help and suggestions. I was able to track down the power door lock issue to a bad relay. I ended up replacing both relays. The relays did not have any clear part numbers but with the help of the sales folks at O’Reilly Auto Parts we were able to find replacement relays, Standard Brand relays part number RY116.

Power door locks work great.

Thanks again.

[emiddleb]

Glad you found the problem!

[imnprsd]

So I was forced to replace my SCS-Frigetter KES and after doing my homework for weeks I finally arrived at a solution that should only take a couple of hours to implement.

I have an "Early Model" 2004 SCS-Frigette KES system in my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD, but I found it's identical to the "Late Model" 2004-2009 SCS-Frigette KES systems with the exception of wiring a Key Pad.

So I can't address the Key Pay wiring option, but maybe someone else can?

What I can do for everyone is share my research with everyone so they know how to replace there existing SCS system for only $30.

...And more importantly you can use the attached Wire Conversion Chart to make this chore easy!

Note: While there are some alternatives to replacing your old SCS-Frigette KES with a new universal KES, we really don't recommend you try to salvage your old unit. That control board is garbage and if you do get it working other owners report their FOBs stop working sooner or later.

A better solution is to use the attache Wire Conversion Chart and add a couple of relays to control you cargo doors. It will take you 2-3 hours with this information, but a professional could probably do it all in 1.5 hours.

SEE ATTACHED PDF.

[imnprsd]

...Continued

Attached is a wiring diagram for the Cargo Locks.

This relay configuration will convert a (-) negative pulse-trigger from your control module... to a (+) 12v output from your relay that you connect to the cargo door actuator.

Also on the relay are the Cargo Lock and Unlock control wires. These are labled as Channel 2 (Pin 12) to Unlock; and Channel 3 (Pin 3) to Lock the Cargo doors.

This implies the FOB "Trunk Lid" button will unlock the cargo doors...

But to lock the cargo doors you need to hold down both the lock and unlock buttons on the FOB.

...You can also reprogram the FOB buttons using the "Valet" option, but that's more complicated and I did not want to deviate from the pre-programmed FOB button functions.

The color relay diagram is for a Standard (SPDT) Relay Wiring configuration, like your Siren. The Siren function on the Avital control module outputs a (+) positive pulse-trigger, so you use a Standard Relay wiring configuration to ouput (+)12V to drive the Siren.

Vs.

The Horn output which is a (-) negative pulse-trigger... so you want to follow the same wiring used on the relays the drive the cargo doors so you get +12V sent to the Horn.

Also, you cannot wire the siren and horn together since they output different polarity. The Siren is (+) and the Horn is (-) as explained above.

** Be sure to add a 10A fuse to the power pins... and if you want you can drive the siren and horn power by tying into the Relay PIN #87a you left open after wiring the cargo locks. ** You also don't have to wire the siren or horn if you don't want this function. Same goes for the led status wire and the "valet" push button wires. Just leave them out of the system.

NOTE: Zone 2 is for the motion sensor that is built into the Avital 3100. We recommend you turn the setting screw all the way down to render this trigger un-detectable.

[imnprsd]

I made a mistake labeling the Horn and Siren as (-) pulse triggers.

These functions are determined by the universal KES you choose. On the Avital 3100LX universal KES the Pin #10 (Brown) wire is a (+) trigger, but it is a low amperage output. Therefore, you need to add a relay in a standard configuration.

By that I mean: "What you put on relay pin #30 you will get out on Pin#87... when the coil side of the relay is switched-on. (This coil switch is the brown wire Pin #10 coming out of the Avital KES.)

Remember relays have a high-current side (+12V source to pin 87 and you then run the high current relay output (Pin #30) to the siren.)

See relay diagram attached.

[imnprsd]

These functions are determined by the universal KES you choose. On the Avital 3100LX universal KES the Pin #10 (Brown) wire is a (+) trigger, but it is a low amperage output. Therefore, you need to add a relay in a standard configuration.

By that I mean: "What you put on relay pin #30 you will get out on Pin#87... when the coil side of the relay is switched-on. (This coil switch is the brown wire Pin #10 coming out of the Avital KES.)

Remember relays have a high-current side (+12V source to pin 87 and you then run the high current relay output (Pin #30) to the siren.)

See relay diagram attached.[/QUOTE]

I also show the wire harness I built using the Avital KES and 3 relays (2 for the cargo lock & unlock function; and 1 relay for the siren. I did not hook up the horn because I did not want the horn beeping when I lock the doors. I can hear them so I did not want to bother.)

... And note you can mount the Avital KES inside the metal shell of your old SCS-Frigette system and you can then attach it to the far rear wall. (Remember to turn the built-in motion detector adjustment screw CCW so it effectively does not work, because you don't need this function or a false alarm if you decide to activate the alarm and are walking around inside your RV.)

FINAL NOTE: This install is relatively simple with the Pin Conversion Chart. Just don't be afraid of opening up your piano hinge circuit breaker panel... and lifting the "rats nest" of 2" wiring harness wire behind the panel. Once you do you will see the SCS-Frigette KES mounted with 4-screws against the far wall... and the OEM wire harness will unplug so you can wire and solder in your new universal KES on the bench.

Don't live without a FOB any longer!

END!