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Old 01-10-2021, 05:10 PM   #1
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Passenger Slide Out Problem

The slide out on the passenger side will not travel in evenly. One slide goes slower than the other and therefore cocks at an angle. I had a hydraulic leak in one of the lines. I replaced the line with a brand new hose and it's been messed up since. I had a mobile RV repair crew out here and they got it to extend all the way out so I could at least live in it, but can't seem to figure out how to fix it. It's been 3 wks since they've been out here and I seem to get a run around when I call to find out what the deal is.

Does anyone have a solution?

Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2021, 05:52 PM   #2
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Wonder if when they replaced the line they introduced air into the hydraulic line and get not follow the procedure to get all the air out.
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Old 01-10-2021, 06:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
Wonder if when they replaced the line they introduced air into the hydraulic line and get not follow the procedure to get all the air out.
I'll admit that I replaced the line and never realized that there is a "procedure" to bleed the line. I've done another one before and had no problem, so that might be an issue this time.
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Old 01-10-2021, 06:43 PM   #4
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Two things that make this seem really likely. One is that the pumps are often far better at pumping fluid than air and air is also easy to squeeze compared to fluid.
You may have heard of bleeding brake lines to get the air out? Same basic idea needs to happen on hydraulic lines.

A manual for your type/brand of system will likely have the procedure.
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Old 01-10-2021, 06:50 PM   #5
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Sounds like you should contact AZpete. He will take your call and give you some advice. Then you can post your results.

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ith-13211.html

I believe there is no procedure to "bleed" the lines after you replace the fluid, because it is supposed to be self-bleeding, but I also think you are supposed to perform this service with the slides-in so the reservoir is full and the lines are equalized.

I suppose it's possible you may need to bleed the line after you replaced one of the lines, but I have no experience doing that. With that said, maybe these suggestions will help you in a pinch?

* I assume your slides were working fine before you replaced the line? Were they?

* I assume your jacks are working now? If so, then maybe can you cycle your jacks a few times to work the air out of the lines after you do this:

A) Loosen the line your replaced at the farthest end from the HWH pump and momentarily pulse the pump on-off... until you see fluid leave the line. Then attach the line to the synchronizing cylinder or wherever.

B) If you are on reasonably level ground... leave your slides out and actuate the jacks a couple times... waiting between cycles so you do not over work the system.

C) Then put your jacks-down and now see if your slides work properly?

D) It may take a couple cycle cycles and remember to hold the button you press to retract the slides for about 3-5 seconds after the side is all the way in so you can equalize the hydraulic pressure in those equalizing cylinders.

Note: Your passenger slide may have a different mechanism than my RV. So before you perform these items, you first need to make sure you do not have one of those "chain mechanisms" on the left and right side of your passenger slide, because if you do then maybe on side may need to be repaired.

==> Now you should get some help from others who find your call for help! ...Because if I said anything wrong, we will hear about is soon enough.

==> To you naysayers out there, remember: My first recommendation is to wait until you talk to AZpete. ...But if this crazy idea works or not, please let the rest of us know, because one day we may be in your shoes!

==> BTY, if you can tell us what type of HWH system you have and if you can post some pictures would also be nice to see!

Note: If you slides and jacks were operating very slow before your replaced your leaking hydraulic line, then chances are you had/have multiple problems going on, and maybe your Shuttle Value is blocked up with some crud.

Here's a like with videos on how to replace your shuttle valve and it's a good reference to keep for other ideas on how to test/by-pass your shuttle valve to see if your slides work properly or not with the shuttle valve out of the loop:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3882948

* I particularly like how the video RV owner used a 10-micron gas filter to clean the crud out of his HWH fluid and then he reused it. ...Me personally, I would replace it with new, cheap grade Dexron III that does NOT have any high mileage additives in it. Or you might consider saving 50% of your old stuff (filtered) and then replace the other 50% with new Dexron III if you don't have enough fluid or just want to save some money.

* And while you are a fluid changing mood, when was the last time you changed your hydraulic steering pump reservoir (if you have one); and when was the last time you changed your Allison 3000MH filters and fluid with Dexron TES295 grade fluid?
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File Type: pdf Shuttle Valve Schematic, HWH 625 Type.pdf (81.7 KB, 4 views)
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Old 01-10-2021, 08:04 PM   #6
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And just to throw some more information at you, here is a picture of that chain mechanism and a side view of a typical HWH pump with A & B manifolds showing which solenoid valves are for your jacks (the big ones on top); and which solenoid valves are for your slides on the bottom.

The point about the Shuttle Valve (primarily) used to meter hydraulic fluid to your jacks, is that I THINK this valve also provides fluid or creates back pressure to your slides. So if you watch that video, I think it shows that if you take the Shuttle valve out of of the loop, by capping on end of that "U-Tube" on top of the manifold, after you swing it out of the way, and you find your slides are working normally, then indirectly you know you have a shuttle valve problem.

What I don't know is if you can cleanout the Shuttle Valve "crud" inside it enough to reuse your old valve. I'm guessing not, or we would have read about that somewhere. ...But if anyone out there has successfully cleaned and reused their shuttle valve, can you let us know how you accomplished this service?
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Old 01-12-2021, 05:44 PM   #7
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I want to thank Paul Maddox, publically, who works for HWH. His help and patience talked us through this issue and we finally got it fixed. Everything seems to be working fine now. Thanks again!!
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Old 01-12-2021, 09:19 PM   #8
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empty_nest: That's great. Can you share how you fixed your problem so the rest of us can benefit from you experiences and Paul's expert advice.
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Old 01-13-2021, 10:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
empty_nest: That's great. Can you share how you fixed your problem so the rest of us can benefit from you experiences and Paul's expert advice.
Absolutely! I'll do the best to explain what worked for my situation.

The whole problem originated with replacing the one hydraulic line. So there was air in the line and that created the uneven slide. So, it needed to be bled.

As luck would have it, it is best if the slide is all the way out, which it was. Inside each of the rams is the threaded rod which moves it in and out. It's a tough time, but you need to remove the nut w/washer at the end of that rod. It's a tight squeeze to get a wrench (15/16") and your fingers in there. Have a magnet handy incase you drop the nut. Ask me how I know.

Run the slide in until you hear the change in the sound (slide at the end). Hold the button for 10 more second. Then, run it back out and hold for 5 seconds. Repeat this process 2 more times. The slide is unhooked and will not move. You are only cycling the hydraulics.

When complete, reattach the threaded rod inside each ram and things should be back to normal.

I hope this explains it and it helps someone in a similar situation.
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Old 01-13-2021, 10:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empty_nest View Post
Edit: I linked a couple photos showing the rod and bolt but I can't seem to get them to show. Sorry.
Did you try to ATTACH photos to your post or did you try to link to some photos on your computer? The latter will never work.

You need to ATTACH photos. Here's how to do it.

Click "Go Advanced" it's next to the "submit reply" button at the bottom of the Quick Reply editing box.

When you do this you'll see a slightly different editing box with a lot more icons on top for post formatting.

One of those "new" icons is a "Paperclip." Click on it.

A whole new window will appear for Attachments and there will be "Browse" buttons to browse to files (images, pdf's, etc) on your computer. Select the image file you want to attach to your post.

CLICK UPLOAD - this is a step many forget to complete. If you go through all the above steps and your image doesn't appear in your post then you forgot to click the UPLOAD button.

That's all there is to it. Close the Attach Files box and then submit your post. Your attached image should now be at the end of your post.
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Old 01-13-2021, 10:35 AM   #11
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OH, now the photos have been attached. Good. I made my post before that took place.

In the mortal words of Emily Littella... "Nevermind."
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Old 01-14-2021, 12:39 AM   #12
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empty_nest: Thanks for providing pictures and details about your fix.

To review: It sounds like you needed to displace the air in the new hydraulic line with hydraulic fluid. And to accomplish this, AZPete advised you to disconnect the ram from the hydraulic stud so that as you actuate the system 2x-3x.

These repetitive hydraulic cycles would then allow the pump to self-bead-off the air in the line. ...And then you just need to put the nut back on the hydraulic stud ... and then verify the slide will move normally. Is this right?

Alternatively, do you think if you pumped fluid through the new line until it squirted out... and then you attach the new line to the hydraulic cylinder... that you would not have introduced that much air into the line in the first place... and you would be okay without removing the nut?

Many of us have never replaced a HWH hydraulic line, so your tips are much appreciated.,

Note: In my 2004 Itasca Horizon, my rams do NOT have an access hole on the sides of the ram to access that nut you described. This feature came along in newer HWH slide systems. So I would not be above to use "remove the nut option" like you did; and that's why I am suggesting another approach.

For example: Did you ask AzPete if you can cycle your jacks a few times to work the air out of the lines? IDK, but I do know that suction draws that hydraulic fluid and air out of the line and to the reservoir, so I wonder if cycling the jack would help blead the air out of a slide-out hydraulic line? IDK... How does that shuttle valve work anyway?

I'm glad you got your slides working again!
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Old 01-14-2021, 07:15 AM   #13
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imnprsd: Your review of my fix is correct.

As usual, there is probably more than one way to get there. I had replaced a line on the other slide, last year, and had no problems. Apparently the other side operates on a single cylinder and therefore does not need to be synced. And that was the problem on this side where the side went crooked.

If I ever have this situation again, I will keep your idea in mind. Filling the line with fluid before install should work, I would think. Thanks.
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Old Yesterday, 11:01 PM   #14
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not sure which slide out you have, if its a flat floor/ space saver slide, be sure to look at the UHMW plastic guides in the Ram. it will do the same thing. im in he middle of doing this. kind of sucks.
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