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Old 08-27-2011, 07:30 PM   #21
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Jupiter,
While we've only owned our Itasca Horizon 36GD for a short while, it's very close to the sister ship to the one you're thinking of. You've read here that the ride will be considerably better on the diesel rig than gasser. The reason(s), the diesel rigs weigh considerably more, have substantially larger frame, way heavier duty suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, and on and on and on.

The engine, the C-7 CAT, has been around since time began. It was basically named the "C-7" in '04. Before that it was called the 3126. Some minor differences. Anyway, one thing that was mentioned, is the "over heating " due to clogged radiators from "exhaust", well, that's a bit off. It's not the exhaust that clogs the radiator fins, it's the "blow-by" that these diesels produce. When they were coming from the factory, the blow by, simply was ejected straight down, from a tube, about the middle of the engine.

But, what's been done lately, (in the last few years) is, they make an "extension tube", to take that blow - by and jettison it out to the side and away from the radiator and its cooling fins. Way better. The diesel engine for the most part, puts out considerably more torque for a given size, than its counter part gasser. As for mileage, that's a debate that will go on 'till WW III comes and goes. Some get higher, some lower. Don't expect much and if you get better, you'll be happy. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:47 PM   #22
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Jupiter;

I assume with all the good comments about the CAT C7 that you are going to purchase the '05 Journey. Once you get it check to see if you have a Trik-L-Starter or a Xantrex Echo Charger installed in the coach. They are usually installed as a aftermarket item in or near the front circuit breaker panel, above the generator.
Winnebago Journeys built before 2006 are not wired to charge the chassis batteries from the shore power when the engine or generator is not running. Parasitic loads on the chassis batteries drain the batteries if the motorhome is parked for a long time.

I found out the hard way on my '05 Journey, with my chassis batteries being drained (going dead) because of parasitic loads. After installing a Trik-L-Charger/Starter, the problem went away. As mentioned, '06 and later Journeys have a Trik-L-Charger/Starter to prevent this problem.

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Old 08-30-2011, 04:14 PM   #23
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Thank you FIRE UP and Suncircle for the advice.

Suncircle,
Yes, we're hoping to close the deal on the Journey within the next week or two. I'll certainly follow up on your suggestion about the chassis battery charge. If you don't mind, I may follow up with you later about more specific detail? Our HR has a battery switch to isolate both the coach and chassis batteries when stored to eliminate parasitic drain. Does the Journey have isolation switches?

Thanks again!
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:41 PM   #24
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The 05 Journey comes with a switch on the dash to isolate the house batteries. The chassis batteries do not have such a switch unless the previous owner installed one. The engine and transmission electronics will drain the chassis batteries in several weeks.

The chassis batteries are charged by the alternator, but not shore power without adding the Trick L Start or Echo Charge which takes 'excess' power once the house is charged for topping off the chassis while on shore power.

The Trick L Start is an inexpensive and easily installed device that will improve your enjoyment of the 05 Journey. As mentioned earlier, Winnebago eventually made it standard equipment.
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:07 PM   #25
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Jupiter:

SVTotem
is absolutely right. I have been debating on putting a knife disconnect switch between the outgoing negative post of the chassis batteries and the cable, but haven't done it yet. Our coach is almost always plugged into 120v systems, except when on the road, of course. Should I have to put it on a storage lot for more than say, a week, I have to disconnect the chassis batteries. A knife switch makes it much easier. I found the best price so far on Amazon.

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Old 08-30-2011, 07:29 PM   #26
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I would recommend using a marine rotary battery switch. They are sealed and will last. While less expensive, the blade type are exposed to corrosion, can arc, etc.
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:12 PM   #27
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Good information, guys. I can foresee a dilemma when I store. I keep our MH stored at a facility under roof, but having no power available. Once I had a dead chassis battery when I forgot to turn the isolatation switch. But, I was able to use the dash switch to start the engine with the house batteries.

Since I typically go more than a week or two between trips, looks like i'll have to install an isolation switch for the chassis. If you add an isolation switch. For the chassis batteries, do you know of any problems with having no power to the chassis components such as loss of memory for electronics, or having to reset devices, etc?

How about solar charging solutions for the chassis batteries?

Thanks much for sharing your thoughts!

Joopy
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:50 PM   #28
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I have heard that the stock solar charger does not really over come the parasitics drain. I have no experience since I store indoors. My Onan manual suggests running the generator at least two hours per month. Since I started doing so I have not had a discharge problem. I do use the coach year round, so it is unusual to go more than four weeks without getting on the road at least briefly.
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:20 PM   #29
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I don't have the opportunity to store my Journey under cover, so it has been my experience that the solar chassis battery charger doesn't keep the batteries charged up. In fact, I am not sure what value the stock solar charger has on the Journey other than esthetics. I have questioned dealership "experts" about memory lose of electronics and have been assured that this is an issue I shouldn't be concerned with. The Caterpillar service representatives has also told me the same thing.

I hadn't thought of the potential arcing in opening and closing a knife switch. Arcing can most certainly burn out electronic components. The same effect lighting strikes have on electronics. I think I will take SVTotem's advice and look now for a marine rotary switch.

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Old 08-31-2011, 12:38 AM   #30
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Check for rust!

You need to check for rust on these! I have a 2005 Itasca Meridian that is in absolutely pristine condition with the exception that I had serious rust around my windshield frame that was severe enough to crack both windshields. The factory used raw steel for the four window brackets at the bottom (which were bound to rust) and someone at the factory scratched a deep line all the way across the top header of the steel frame and through the paint, causing even more rust. Here is the thread:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/winn...es-100738.html

You MUST require your dealer to remove the windshield moldings so you can inspect the frame. Look for any sign of rust across the top that might extend under the black window sealant. Most of my rust was hidden under that sealant. It looked very minor at first, but you can see from the photos what I found after removing the sealant. My unit has been garaged continuously since new in Southern California and you can see the rust I had. It was mostly from washing the rig, as it has never seen eastern weather and has not sat outside. Most of our trips are to the desert.

Also be sure to check the compartment bin boxes behind the side opening doors, plus all of the added framing under the coach. Winnebago did very poor rustproofing in these areas - if any. Those areas are painted, but apparently without any other protection. Paint alone never stops rust.

Good luck.
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