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Old 06-19-2018, 05:09 PM   #21
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I've never noticed anything like a slide lock on my 2002 35U. Am I missing something or are they not on all models? It's in storage so I can't check it right now.
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Old 06-20-2018, 02:23 AM   #22
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jerichorick - thanks for the pic. I'm going to check, but I don't believe my unit has this type of lock. As I remember it, the top of the slide is flat as a pancake. However, it does make me wonder, just how does that slide(s) stay in going down the road. Hmmmm.
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Old 06-20-2018, 02:58 AM   #23
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My slide locks look very similar to Jerichorick's. Except I have one per each large slide, in the very middle of the slide.

I need the topper off to access the lock opening. Cleaned them totally, once when replacing the topper fabric two years ago. But the weep holes are on the outside wall, and can be accessed with a ladder.

I think it was a new thing starting in 2010, but perhaps earlier, I'm not sure. I use them all the time when travelling. I do know that on a couple of visits to the dealer for maintenance work, he extended the slides, later I drove home and noticed the locks had never been re-engaged, but the top of the slide never budged. The center of gravity of the slide weight seems to be located toward the bottom of the slide.
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Old 06-20-2018, 08:51 AM   #24
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I've never noticed anything like a slide lock on my 2002 35U. Am I missing something or are they not on all models? It's in storage so I can't check it right now.
But I do have some straps that connect from the slide to the floor at about a 45 degree angle about 18" or so high. In researching them pretty much no one ever uses them. They're not that robust and the attachment points are pretty flimsy so I don't think they'd do much before pulling loose.
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Old 06-20-2018, 10:24 AM   #25
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I've never noticed anything like a slide lock on my 2002 35U. Am I missing something or are they not on all models? It's in storage so I can't check it right now.

You don't have them. We have Power Gear slides. You have HWH. You have a strap (useless) from the slide trim to the floor, if I am correct.
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Old 06-20-2018, 10:34 AM   #26
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jerichorick - thanks for the pic. I'm going to check, but I don't believe my unit has this type of lock. As I remember it, the top of the slide is flat as a pancake. However, it does make me wonder, just how does that slide(s) stay in going down the road. Hmmmm.

If you don't have a Lock/Unlock switch next to the room slide control button then you don't have them. The motors are supposed to lock so the slide will not move in your setup. Lippert?
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:06 AM   #27
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jerichorick, thanks for clearing that up. I have Lippert slides, no switch, no locks and I'm going to stop worrying about water leaks now - at least from this area.
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:52 AM   #28
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Just for some info on my system. My levelers and slide motors are powergear, before Lippert bought them out.

Once when no power was getting to the motors, I had to learn how to release the motor locks, and manually crank in the slide, a couple inches on one motor, then a couple inches on the other motor, repeat until in and locked. Wasn't terribly hard, just had to figure out the method. Problem with slide motors turned out to be a loose wiring connection, located under the refrigerator??

A few years ago, the largest of the slides, started creeping out at the front edge bottom while driving. Never got more than an inch, but disturbing. Would stop, send slide out, and back in. 20-30 miles later, creeped out that 1" again. Repeated a couple more times until we were camped for the night.

The next day, I examined the motor lock, didn't seem to be locked, I used a little block of wood, and pushed on it, hard. Felt and heard a noticeable crunch, like a grain of sand being crushed, and the lock was now in place. Haven't had any more creep in the years since.
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Old 06-30-2018, 04:52 PM   #29
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We have been doing our best to deal with a slide leak. This one was on the side of the bed closest to the closet.

When it rains hard, or for prolonged periods, the bottom of the slide gets wet. This water saturates the carpet that is rolled down from the top, behind the drawer facing. It also would drip onto the carpet below. Caulk did not help.

We are in WA and rain is common. As usual the leak was there. Today I decided to give it another look see. Well, don't yea know I did see a suspicious place in the gasket out side. The way it was turned around the corner, side to bottom, it seemed to form a funnel (in my humble opinion). So, with scissors in hand, I cut a notch out of the gasket at the apex of the turn.

As of this writing, I think I finally fixed the problem. We just had one walloping downpour. All is dry! Has been now for several hours and several showers.

This is the second leak I have fixed. The first was from the shower skylight. The factory caulking job was not done well. By the time I realized where the problem was coming from the ceiling over the shower had been damaged. Some day I will have to remove that panel and do a proper ceiling repair. That will be a tough one. I need to get a good trim and stain, then find an area I can work in. Might happen this summer.

As far as the slide leak goes... no noticeable damage. hew!


Now the big challenge is keeping the bugs out of the slide lock drain vents. I hate it when those things get plugged with a bug nest. It seems that I can clean the port out and the following week we will have rain and the hole will be plugged. Usually happens at dinner time. Water runs down the wall inside the cupboard I am sitting under. Those darn bugs!


Enough wining for today. Happy trails all.

Rick
Thanks for the info. Would it be possible to take a photo of where you cut the notch. I think I have the same leak.
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Old 06-30-2018, 07:17 PM   #30
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This is the second leak I have fixed. The first was from the shower skylight. The factory caulking job was not done well. By the time I realized where the problem was coming from the ceiling over the shower had been damaged. Some day I will have to remove that panel and do a proper ceiling repair. That will be a tough one. I need to get a good trim and stain, then find an area I can work in. Might happen this summer.
I had to replace a broken and leaking skylight and repair ceiling damage. After removing the old fabric headliner and replacing some of the Luan plywood on the ceiling, I covered the whole bathroom ceiling with an embossed, almond colored FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) panel from Lowes (also available in white). I installed it in two pieces, one over the shower and one over the rest of the bathroom since one piece was too unwieldy. I used 3M Hi Strength spray adhesive for both the Luan and the FRP panels. I'm thinking of doing the same on the walls.
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:09 AM   #31
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I had to replace a broken and leaking skylight and repair ceiling damage. After removing the old fabric headliner and replacing some of the Luan plywood on the ceiling, I covered the whole bathroom ceiling with an embossed, almond colored FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) panel from Lowes (also available in white). I installed it in two pieces, one over the shower and one over the rest of the bathroom since one piece was too unwieldy. I used 3M Hi Strength spray adhesive for both the Luan and the FRP panels. I'm thinking of doing the same on the walls.

That is not a bad idea. Did you use a molding around the edges?
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:23 AM   #32
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Thanks for the info. Would it be possible to take a photo of where you cut the notch. I think I have the same leak.

I hope these post clear enough.
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:53 PM   #33
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Yes, in the shower area and for the joints between the two ceiling panels I used plastic moulding made for the panels between the two ceiling panels and corner moulding in the shower area. I forgot to mention I also used the fiberglass panels on the walls above the shower surround. In the bath area I used oak-colored polyurethane half round to match my cabinets.

I made ceiling templates out of 1/8" Masonite to make sure everything fit before cutting the fiberglass panels. I did so in one piece and used screws into the Luan to make sure all was OK. I then cut it into two pieces before I used it to cut the fiberglass.

I was working alone but it would be much easier with two people.

The skylight and vent screws also help secure the panels in place in addition to the adhesive.
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:32 AM   #34
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I hope these post clear enough.
Yep, helps a lot. I think that will solve my problem. Thank you very much. 👍
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:08 AM   #35
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Yep, helps a lot. I think that will solve my problem. Thank you very much. 👍

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Old 07-02-2018, 10:00 AM   #36
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I forgot to mention the following:

1. I used the same 3M adhesive to adhere the new Luan to the ceiling foam.

2. I found that the fabric headliner was easy to remove if I sprayed it with water and let it soak in for a few minutes. I did this section by section (about 2' square). Everything, including the old adhesive scraped right off.

I'll never understand why Winnebago thinks fabric is good for bathroom and shower ceilings.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:32 AM   #37
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I forgot to mention the following:

1. I used the same 3M adhesive to adhere the new Luan to the ceiling foam.

2. I found that the fabric headliner was easy to remove if I sprayed it with water and let it soak in for a few minutes. I did this section by section (about 2' square). Everything, including the old adhesive scraped right off.

I'll never understand why Winnebago thinks fabric is good for bathroom and shower ceilings.

That is the red 3m spray?


I think my ceiling would have been fine. It is a vinyl material. The screw on the roof holding the shower skylight on that the factory didn't caulk is what caused my problem. By the time I figured it out the damage was done. Also, in this model year the factory found it a good idea to press 'T' strips into the foam as a panel divider. Where there is no molding holding the ends up, they are pulling away from the ceiling edge. I think most of the folks responsible for designing these things don't consider the fact that, when moving, it is equivalent to healthy earthquake. Even long cabinet over the 'J' couch is held up by a few screws run into the 1/16" sheet metal of the slide ceiling. The window valance is supporting most of the weight and being ripped out of the wall. I digress. Forgive me.


I am not certain when I will work on the bathroom ceiling. My color for the molding is not standard. I think I will go the Sherman Williams and give them a sample of my wood color to see if they can match it. I have another project that I could use a quantity of stain for. I am going to talk with my wife about the FRP idea. She has the last word.
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Old 07-03-2018, 10:22 AM   #38
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This is the 3M adhesive I used:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-19-fl-oz...ive/1000223739

You spray both surfaces, let them dry until not sticky, but not until dry. You need to be careful because once you stick the two surfaces together you can't count on being able to re-position them. If you're quick you can but don't count on it.

You should use a heavy rubber roller to ensure good contact:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Exte...Roller/3030693

Also, on mine, the screws holding the inside skylight dome and the power vent trim were rusting so I replaced them with stainless steel screws. The new screws I put in were a size larger (I think I replaced #8 with #10) to ensure they held. I didn't bother trying to put the little plastic caps back on the slightly bigger screw heads, the stainless heads look fine to me.
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Old 07-04-2018, 02:06 AM   #39
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Bob C thanks for the updated info on the adhesive and roller it really helps to know exactly what works. I, thankfully, don't have this issue right now but I'll put all of this in the ol' memory bank in case I need it in the future. Now as to finding it again, that may be a different matter.
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Old 07-04-2018, 07:48 AM   #40
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You can edit the "tags" to include whatever key words will help you find it again. I often do this since the automatic tags don't always point to the heart of the matter and can also be misleading.
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