Most Important Upgrades for New RV

[Carolinagurl]

As the owner of a new Vista 29 VE (yipppee!), I’d like to ask the more experienced rig owners what you consider to be the most important improvements you’ve made to your rig and why?

Recently my technician recommended I install a steering stabilizer. Thank you for your input- I’m eager to learn!

Carolinagurl
Rookie season
2021 Vista 29VE

[JLUSoCal]

Owner of a 2017. Really like it and have done many upgrades. Funny you mention stabilizer... that's likely my last suspension upgrade after getting blown around on my last trip past palm springs.

Because we dry camp from time to time I made the jump into lithium and solar. Part to learn and part to enjoy the power both give you. I'd say for me that was the best.

I've done lots with suspension and a second best was almost free. The chf is not hard if you have tools and mechanical knowledge. I say not free because I added longer front links to correct the geometry a bit. Got them from the Amazon warehouse for 60 bucks so worth it I think.

I've done sumo springs helped a bit and made one handed driving possible if not in wind gusts. Just added koni shocks and that smoothed out the jarring. Again the stabilizer if it stops wind gust two handed driving that's it I'm done with handling and suspension.

Inside I moved the back air fan vent to the kitchen and put in another fan in the bedroom. I put a hengs fan in bathroom that does well too.

If you have a budget start with chf that will help sway and handling .

Open to any questions you might have.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Carolinagurl

As the owner of a new Vista 29 VE (yipppee!), I’d like to ask the more experienced rig owners what you consider to be the most important improvements you’ve made to your rig and why?

Recently my technician recommended I install a steering stabilizer. Thank you for your input- I’m eager to learn!

Carolinagurl
Rookie season
2021 Vista 29VE

Congratulations on selecting the best RV Coach and layout in the world. What were all of these other RV owners thinking

I will change your question a tad and tell you what mods I consider are my favorites. My signature below list what I think are relevant noteworthy mods, but I think calling any important may be overstating. Winnebago does a very good job in making a good coach that is ready to go off the factory floor.

Some of my favorites in order
1. Onan EC-30 AGS
2. Safe T Plus Stabilizer
3. New Shower fixture (Stopped the cold zaps of water )
4. Installed a option to connect the Norcold to Inverter circuit
5. Replaced OEM batteries to Group 31 VMax tanks 250AH!!!
6. Sumo Springs
7. Dimmer switches ( working on now)
8. Replaced OEM 39" TV in main cabin with 40" Samsung
9. Jet Flo Macerator
10. Southwire Surge Guard 44270 & 34951

[JLUSoCal]

Dkoldman... steering stabilizer, will it get rid of wind gusts pushing you around? Trucks barely affect me but wind gusts still a problem.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JLUSoCal

Dkoldman... steering stabilizer, will it get rid of wind gusts pushing you around? Trucks barely affect me but wind gusts still a problem.

IMO; Short Answer is No

Here is what I noticed from my experience in progression to what I did.

I bought RV brand new in Port St. Lucie Florida. Our first trip (break-in) was back to Dallas 1,500 miles

La Mesa RV offered to install the Safe T Plus stabilizer, but we would have had to stick around 2 days because Thanksgiving was next day so we left.

I had trouble staying on the road as it kept drifting to the right I hope I don't offend anyone, but I-95 was ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE as well as roads in Florida, Georgia & through Alabama that we traveled on. The potholes on the side were noticeable as I kept drifting. Additionally, trucks and wind pushed me with ease and usually to the right

When I put the Safe T Plus Stabilizer bar on, I immediately noticed I could drive straight with ease without having to hold the wheel too tight. But I bought the Safe T Stabilizer to support the wheels in the event of blow out. Trucks and winds still blew me around. But I should point out that given I was being blown around by winds and trucks, when I recovered it more stable and safer. Before without Safe T Plus; I would kind of overcompensate left & right trying to get back straight on highway.

Then came the CHF. While I irritated some, I did not do. I understand why Ford may not equip them with CHF already done, but there is a reason Ford, Winnebago or their Dealers will not after-the-fact install or recommend that you do. So while someone may convince me in the future, right now it was not an option despite getting blown around by trucks and wind.

Then came the Sumo Springs. I did front and back. While overpriced in my opinion, it made a big difference. The RV no longer wobbles; or bounce and roll. I use to always get pushed by Trucks coming up from the rear, but no more Exception being a trucker doing 85 mph or faster. I now normally drive 70 - 75 mph with ease As far as winds, that will always be a factor IMO; but it is not nearly as noticeable. i.e. Driving into a 30 mph head wind you will feel it and same for a sudden 30 mph gust or more that can catch the side of the RV. It is not so much the wind, but the control you have and feel when the wind is felt.

So in summary, to get rid of wind impact you will need something other than Safe T Plus, but the Sumo Springs have made it a non issue for me. If I just have nothing else to do, or spend money on, I may go and a add a rear stabilizer bar.

[DavidM]

Install a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). I have a Tymate which was easy to install and comes with an integrated solar panel which means no cables required.

Also most of the above chassis comments are based on the old F53 chassis with the V10 engine. That chassis apparently does need a lot of help with handling.

But the new 2021 F53 chassis with the V8 is vastly improved. It has a heavier sway bar to start with. And return to center tracking should be better. But the first thing I would do about handling is to get a front end alignment done and set the caster to +5 degrees for best return to center tracking.

David

[BobC]

You'll read a lot about suspension/steering upgrades. My advice is to get some experience under your belt before doing anything. You may not need anything. I know that my 2002 Suncruiser (Workhorse chassis) drives fine without any mods or upgrades. I've also noticed, as one poster commented, that many, if not most of the posts and threads about such upgrades pertain to the F53 chassis.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by DavidM

Install a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). I have a Tymate which was easy to install and comes with an integrated solar panel which means no cables required.

Also most of the above chassis comments are based on the old F53 chassis with the V10 engine. That chassis apparently does need a lot of help with handling.

But the new 2021 F53 chassis with the V8 is vastly improved. It has a heavier sway bar to start with. And return to center tracking should be better. But the first thing I would do about handling is to get a front end alignment done and set the caster to +5 degrees for best return to center tracking.

David

Good point on the 2021 V8 F53, all previous knowledge may or may not apply. It also brings to light my frustration with 2020 F53s and above, the stabilizing issue has been around how long since the F53 come out? 30 years idk but Ford, Winnebago and other RV Mfg. Why they let new RV owners fend for themselves? Winnebago has provided me with 100s of page pf documentation, dos and don't do, but not @*$% word about suggested recommendation to help stabilize the coach thus making it safer for occupants. I mean don't bother to tell me which seat to NOT use while vehicle is underway if you don't care to tell me what I need to safely maintain the vehicle in the event of blowout, heavy winds are large trucks passing by at high speeds.

On alignment, I actually went to get an alignment at a very well known spring shop. I was told it was not worth the time, I pressed and he said if you wish to just give me money, I will take it. I got the impression it would not last very long. Regardless they help me to get my RV running straight down the road on a flat surface and 18 months and 13,000 miles later there is no sign of wear on any of my tires. With the Safe T Plus stabilizer, I can make that adjustment myself if necessary. With that said, when I get new tires, I kind of do that any way just to eyeball what it look's like and to help with the warranty.

[Blastvalve]

Lots of great suggestions on suspension.

One item I’d recommend is a EMS system to protect all your electrical components. Aside from protecting against surges, many also protect against improperly wired pedestals and brown outs.

Lots of opinions out there, my recommendation is a hard wired one from Progressive Industries. They have a great reputation and the company stands behind their product. They come in both 30 and 50 amp varieties depending on your power setup.

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/our-products

They do run a few hundred, but cheap insurance when you start adding up replacement cost for TVs, Inverters, Air Conditioners etc.

Congrats on the New Rig!

[SLOweather]

Originally Posted by JLUSoCal

I say not free because I added longer front links to correct the geometry a bit. Got them from the Amazon warehouse for 60 bucks so worth it I think.

JLUSoCal, do you have a better pointer to the longer links on Amazon? Thanks!

[Carolinagurl]

Thank you! Thank you for your explanations and guidance. I have an alignment scheduled next week and Safe T Plus installation....then, we shall see how she rolls. Also, I’m picking up a surge protector as a couple of you recommended. I absolutely love my new RV! Thank you again! You all are awesome!

[Carolinagurl]

Could you please share additional information on your solar and lithium battery upgrades? I really want to learn more about this. Thank you!

[creativepart]

All are good suggestions - especially the steering stabilizer.

Let me add a small super inexpensive addition that really applies to all RVs. A screen door grab handle. Once you add this $25 device you will wonder how you ever lived without it.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Screen-...dp/B00OJM78Z0/

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Carolinagurl

Could you please share additional information on your solar and lithium battery upgrades? I really want to learn more about this. Thank you!

There are many threads on Winnieowners on this topic. I suggest you check some of them out rather than create more posts here. For the most part, the solar/battery issue isn't model-specific. A lot depends on how you plan on using your rig. Will you be camping frequently without shore power? If so, for how long? A major issue is what kind of refrigerator you have. Residential refrigerators and 12V refrigerators require more power than two (120V/LPG) or three-way (120V/12V/LPG) refrigerators that will run on propane.

It's an interesting topic and educating yourself before you leap is definitely the way to go. A simple and relatively low cost ($150 - $300) way to get started is to buy a portable 100w to 200w folding panel to use with your existing batteries and go from there. If you go all the way with roof mounted panels, the portable panel will still be useful for when your roof is in the shade. This is discussed in some detail in the following thread along with some of the other issues:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...em-361127.html

Here are some thread lists to get you started:

Solar:

https://www.google.com/search?q=sola...nnieowners.com

Lithium (LiFePO4):

https://www.google.com/search?q=lith...nnieowners.com

[JLUSoCal]

Originally Posted by BobC

There are many threads on Winnieowners on this topic. I suggest you check some of them out rather than create more posts here. For the most part, the solar/battery issue isn't model-specific. A lot depends on how you plan on using your rig. Will you be camping frequently without shore power? If so, for how long? A major issue is what kind of refrigerator you have. Residential refrigerators and 12V refrigerators require more power than two (120V/LPG) or three-way (120V/12V/LPG) refrigerators that will run on propane.

It's an interesting topic and educating yourself before you leap is definitely the way to go. A simple and relatively low cost ($150 - $300) way to get started is to buy a portable 100w to 200w folding panel to use with your existing batteries and go from there. If you go all the way with roof mounted panels, the portable panel will still be useful for when your roof is in the shade. This is discussed in some detail in the following thread along with some of the other issues:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...em-361127.html

Here are some thread lists to get you started:

Solar:

https://www.google.com/search?q=sola...nnieowners.com

Lithium (LiFePO4):

https://www.google.com/search?q=lith...nnieowners.com

Agree with Bob, lots and more on youtube as well.

For our model, I ran the wiring down the wall where the shower valves and all the gauges, thermostat are. Then ran wires down from the roof under the shower to the inverter area to put my MPPT controller. I used the inverter wiring to send power back to the batteries. Saved me quite a bit of wiring and already protected by a fuse.

All in for Solar and Lithium is not cheap so as BobC notes if you don't dry camp, save money for other items, you'll not get your money back.

If you decide it's for you I can answer more model-specific questions and my experience with a first-gen 29ve (i say first gen because there are likely improvements that have happened over its 5+ years of life).

[JLUSoCal]

Originally Posted by SLOweather

JLUSoCal, do you have a better pointer to the longer links on Amazon? Thanks!

SLOweather (san luis obispo?)
Bought these about a year ago for $37 in the Amazon warehouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have gone up about 50% since I priced them last (buying new). Look up that part number and CHF, there's an alternate from a lifted ford truck that is the right length. If you extend that link you lose some of the effects but it lines up closer to factory position so it's a compromise.

I ran for 6 months without and felt it was limiting down travel of the front tires and never designed to do that. ?

My last suspension enhacement is a stabilizer - it's Safe t plus or Roadmaster RSSA? Haven't been able to find any evidence that it's worth spending more monies on the Safe T Plus and all believe that while it helps it's the blowout or dropping off the road that's where it's a nice safety feature.

My class C had Steer Safe and was similar in the safety but I don't think it tried to keep you straight down the road. One time in Yellowstone I did drop off an edge in the road and was able to pull it back onto the road a bit after the drop was a bit less. That brought dishes out of the overhead and was a lesson on don't stare at Bison while driving on a two-lane road

[JLUSoCal]

Originally Posted by JLUSoCal

SLOweather (san luis obispo?)
Bought these about a year ago for $37 in the Amazon warehouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have gone up about 50% since I priced them last (buying new). Look up that part number and CHF, there's an alternate from a lifted ford truck that is the right length. If you extend that link you lose some of the effects but it lines up closer to factory position so it's a compromise.

I ran for 6 months without and felt it was limiting down travel of the front tires and never designed to do that. ?

My last suspension enhancement is a stabilizer - it's Safe t plus or Roadmaster RSSA? Haven't been able to find any evidence that it's worth spending more monies on the Safe T Plus and all believe that while it helps it's the blowout or dropping off the road that's where it's a nice safety feature.

My class C had Steer Safe and was similar in the safety but I don't think it tried to keep you straight down the road. One time in Yellowstone I did drop off an edge in the road and was able to pull it back onto the road a bit after the drop was a bit less. That brought dishes out of the overhead and was a lesson on don't stare at Bison while driving on a two-lane road

If you do go with the extended links. You need to pull the metal sleeve from the factory ones and slip into the new links. Re-use the original bolts too. I read that the bolts that come with the links don't fit and that fixes it.

[blueridge-fl]

Given that you have a 2021 F53 chassis, suggestions for CHF, and upgraded sway bars do not apply. Also doubtful what you will get with Sumo Springs. The 2021 F53 chassis comes with larger sway bars and some form of electronic stabilization. Also, Ford did away with the extra sway bar hole that allowed for the CHF. I would take the advice you will receive from previous generation F53 chassis owners with a large grain of salt. You should drive the coach for a while and decide what if any problems need fixing.

PS: I have a 2018 Vista 32YE and have made many suspension mods but I don't feel it would be right to offer advice for your new chassis based on my experience.

[SLOweather]

Originally Posted by JLUSoCal

SLOweather (san luis obispo?)
Bought these about a year ago for $37 in the Amazon warehouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! Yes, San Luis Obispo. I went to Cal Poly there and stayed for 47 years. Now divorced, I just moved back home to Illinois last fall after living in my Sunstar for 5 months..

[winston74]

Our first mod was to ditch the Denver mattress and replaced it with a 12" bed-in-a-box.


2014 Winnebago Sightseer 33C on F53 6.8l V-10
2014 Honda CR-V 4-down toad with Falcon2 and EvenBrake
TireMinder TPMS and 5-Star Tuning upgrade