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Old 09-04-2015, 10:49 AM   #21
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Once cured (and that takes 7days +), the 5200 remains flexible... Barely. At 700psi bonded to fiberglass, and 300psi+ on Aluminum, and considering there is an entire tube in there, its not ever going anywhere. That was a conscious decision to use THIS product over Epoxy to try and attach two pieces, one being quite flexible together. IMO, that, plus lousy prep is why these keep failing. Now I've removed the brittleness of the Epoxy. But theres no way Winnebago is going to use an adhesive that takes two days to even skin, let alone 7 to cure.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:12 PM   #22
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It's simply amazing after all these years that Winnebago can't seem to figure out how to attach things properly when us schmoes can permenantly fix it with a trip to the hardware store. Is it that hard?
X2. I had the same issue on my 2003 Journey DL.


My "cure" was construction adhesive.
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:32 AM   #23
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I have yet to fix the bracket on my Winnebago 26 HE. The Winnebago dealer was of zero help. I called Winnebago and hey recommended a certain type of glue that they said was readily available. The problem is trying to find this glue in Canada. I spent a month tracking down the glue only to find that I had to spend extra money on a glue gun, plus shipping. I still,think this is a Winnebago problem. Parts falling off can kill someone on the road.
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:45 AM   #24
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Very professional looking and clean. I ended up using the 3 m material and then after it was all installed I bedded over top with fiberglass. we'll see how that holds up I think I will get some of your bolts and keep handy. for repairs on the road.
Where did you find the stainless steel bolts?

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Originally Posted by SCVJeff View Post
Just posted this on another thread too.
I fixed the front cover with a bead of 3M #5200 700 psi Marine Adhesive around the entire frame. It took 7 days to cure but it will never come loose again. I think this stuff is going to way out perform epoxy since it has some (but not much) flex in it. Makes sense since its formulated for boats that also move and flex.

I used stainless steel rivets instead of bolts on the rear engine door. It was an idea from a friend I like better than the bolts:
Attachment 105764Attachment 105765Attachment 105766
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:48 AM   #25
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Attached is pics of my front access door with 1/4" Stainless steel button head bolts. Coach was painted after installed but IMHO looked good before paint. You can get bolts at any ACE, True Value or big box home supply in the "small drawer" hardware section.
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Old 09-06-2015, 03:19 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by SCVJeff View Post
Once cured (and that takes 7days +), the 5200 remains flexible... Barely. At 700psi bonded to fiberglass, and 300psi+ on Aluminum, and considering there is an entire tube in there, its not ever going anywhere. That was a conscious decision to use THIS product over Epoxy to try and attach two pieces, one being quite flexible together. IMO, that, plus lousy prep is why these keep failing. Now I've removed the brittleness of the Epoxy. But theres no way Winnebago is going to use an adhesive that takes two days to even skin, let alone 7 to cure.
Jeff
You can also get Fast Cure 5200 that cures in 24 hours. It is made for impatient guys like me!

Bob
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Old 09-06-2015, 05:13 PM   #27
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I think the problem is not the adhesive but the e-coating that comes off the metal because the metal was not properly prepared for the e-coating.
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