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Old 05-19-2022, 07:38 AM   #1
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It Happened to us. Roof Damage

First, our unit is a Brave, 2004, workhorse chassis.

We were out in Branson, Missouri for a week, and while there we experienced a hailstorm. Climbed up on the roof, afterwards to check for damage, none, although our toad, Jeep Unlimited did have one minor dent on its hood, some of the hail approached ping pong size.

Anyhoo, said all that to say this. On the way home, the roof on the drivers side, the side where the wind was really whipping, raised up, about an 8 foot long section. It came up out of the rail but did not rip or tear, and as the front cap sealant held, it to stayed in place. In one of the pictures you can see that the wind also pulled the awning away from the rail, that will also have to be addressed

The roof has about a 12 foot section from the edge to about 2 or 3 feet in that is detached/delaminated from the wood underneath. How can I reattach this, what glue to use.

I have ProFlex Clear to put back in the channel to reseal the roof to the railing, after a good clean out and cleaning with acetone.

Now something I have been pondering, hope you have read this far. I have owned several RV's with rubber roofs, and as some of you will know, the roof is generally attached to the side walls with a strip of aluminum with screws through it to the underlying surfaces.

My question is WHY can't we put about a 1/2" aluminum strip at the top of that rail, of course after the roof is reinserted into the stock rail and caulked, used self drilling screws and screw the aluminum strip to the roof and the underlying substrate. Then of course caulk the screw heads, that would in my thinking end this perpetual problem with the fiberglass roof.

Had I known that the fiberglass roof was this much of a problem I would have NEVER bought this unit, and I will not consider another RV with a fiberglass roof, nor will I advise anyone to buy one, or make sure they know what they are getting into. My Rant.
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:52 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaffeekid View Post
My question is WHY can't we put about a 1/2" aluminum strip at the top of that rail, of course after the roof is reinserted into the stock rail and caulked, used self drilling screws and screw the aluminum strip to the roof and the underlying substrate.
Several manufacturers of RVs with rubber roofs secure the material into the side rail like you mentioned but they’ve all found the that body side flexes and twists causing the roof to ripple in various locations. On a rubber roof that’s not so bad, but on a filon roof it tears the filon.

Also, there is not much to screw a new trim piece to up there. That roof radius is styrofoam.

I know we’ve posted this dozens of times but go to YouTube and watch the AZ Expert channel. James, details and illustrates the process of gluing down the filon and sealing the roof into the drip rail. He always details the glue used to glue down the roof. It is a specific glue.

I don’t know your plans but I wouldn’t just fix the area where the roof came out of the drip rail. You should complete this fix on the whole drip rail, both sides.
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Old 05-19-2022, 08:38 AM   #3
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Thanks

Yes I do plan to do the entire rail both sides, now as far as the rubber roof tearing from its attachment points, never observed that to happen on the units I have owned, that is not to say it has never happened.
Looks to me as if the strip I am referring to could be screwed into the top of the drip rail itself. The drip rail extends up about 3/4 of an inch where the roof is stuffed down into it.
Relying on caulk only to hold the freaking roof on just is stupid in my books, sorry just upset at the chore I am about to tackle.
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Old 05-19-2022, 09:15 AM   #4
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I can’t point you to a specific video, but James has shown what happens if the roof is mechanically fixed to the drip rail and explained that this is why Winnebago doesn’t make what seems like an easy fix to the whole roof tucking into the drip rail issue.

Obviously if the correction for this problem was that easy it would have been implemented long ago.

Suit yourself, but I wouldn’t advise that option.
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Old 05-19-2022, 11:13 AM   #5
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I would also be leery of fasteners up there because we know the whole thing flexes. If it came to that I would rather apply Eternabond tape as others have done.
Do you happen to know if the radius has ever been resealed or is it original?
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Old 05-19-2022, 02:34 PM   #6
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Yes it looks like it was resealed at one time and a very bad job was done, so I am going to take several days and do it right then as a last step when the pro flex is cured Im gonna put eternabond tape 4 over the radius and down over the rail, and across the front and rear cap, then put a FOR SALE sign on her, . I doubt that 😂😂😂
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Old 05-19-2022, 02:50 PM   #7
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There is another very recent thread here on that. Just make sure you get it super, super clean and when finished do not move the rig for at least a few days. I left mine sit for several weeks as we had no trips planned and it is holding very well since last year. I actually painted the roof radius first and had cleaned all the old stuff out with an abrasive Roloc disc and repeated applications of thinner so I am positive it was as clean as factory new. With indoor storage I hope to never have to do it again.
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Old 05-25-2022, 04:26 PM   #8
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On April 4th Hailstorm went through Avon Park, FL. Had damage to house, car and motorhome. All 500 plus homes in our community damaged. Yesterday I observed new flex armor sprayed roof. (Rvroof.com) I will have my roof replaced by them. As soon as insurance approves.
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Old 05-25-2022, 04:37 PM   #9
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Sorry you had this trouble.
It’s been on here many times.
I got lucky I saw this video before venturing out.
The radius where the roof tucks into the rail must be checked every year.
Check this out:
You may have to copy this link to see it.
https://youtu.be/jDd3NrdWSQA
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Old 05-25-2022, 04:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaffeekid View Post
Yes it looks like it was resealed at one time ...
"At one time"? A 2004 rig should have been
re-done MANY times over the years. That seam needs to be checked annually and R&R'ed every 2-3 years at the most. Sometimes it takes just a little fixing, other times a lot. Its just part of the regular maintenance, just like checking a rubber roof for damage, cleaning it, and/or coating it w/ something. The roof coming loose likely had nothing to do w/ the hailstorm, but rather overdue roof maintenance. All things considered, I am very glad I have a fiberglass roof vs rubber. Maintaining those side seams is pretty much the only maintenance it needs.
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Old 05-25-2022, 05:26 PM   #11
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I wondered how secure my roof was, my solution was 2” eternabond tape . We had a Adventurer with full paint, so I was able to use black tape . It worked out very well no more caulking, no way could the roof come loose. I ran down both sides carefully. The drip rail on mine was my straight edge.
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