How I Installed a CatStrap on a 2019 Ford F-53 V10 Motorhome Chassis

[NXR]

I think your question about which battery to connect to will be answered by the CatEye doc. Personally, I'd rather have dead house batteries than a dead chassis battery.

I would suggest you engrave your VIN on the converter. I'm going to do that. Articles on a couple of recent major busts had text that the cops could not match a converter to a particular crime. An engraved VIN should help close that gap.

Ray

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by NXR

I think your question about which battery to connect to will be answered by the CatEye doc. Personally, I'd rather have dead house batteries than a dead chassis battery.

I would suggest you engrave your VIN on the converter. I'm going to do that. Articles on a couple of recent major busts had text that the cops could not match a converter to a particular crime. An engraved VIN should help close that gap.

Ray

My current converter has been painted bright orange with DPD and VIN on opposite for two years now. It is just that the High Temp Paint barely made a year.

I got the Cat Bundle kit from a fellow RV'er, it was brand new but a few years old apparently.

I have tried calling, emailing and submitting to Catstrap on the website for about 5 months now. I never get any response. Had I heard anything from them; I likely would have bought the new bundle with 12' catstrap. Maybe they too busy? I figure I am on my own, thus my questions.

The last thing I sent them was to find out how to get two of the Cat Clamps for the converter necks; because my bundle did not have any.

FWIW, I have an existing siren that I have that works off 3 AAA batteries, it is actually pretty good, but I have to move it and set it every time I park. It too has remote to turn on/off. Once it goes off, it keeps going

[dkoldman]

Your manuals and documentation are excellent. Better than anything I have seen thus far from Catstrap.

Here is my update: Focus of this post is Cateye

I installed this morning.

Siren and Controller is in battery compartment far right corner; so no rain, water moisture etc.
I added my own 5 amp automotive fuse


I put the sensor behind the transmission
Not sure if that is smart because it may get too hot? The spot was centrally located and a little higher up that frame cross bar. I can move it if there is concern with heat.

[dkoldman]

I have not started the install for Catstrap yet. Hoping to hear from Catstrap to get 2 of the Cat Clamps.

In meantime, I may have solved the problem of having an older silver 7' catstrap. I painted with my High Temp Bright Orange paint today.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I have not started the install for Catstrap yet. Hoping to hear from Catstrap to get 2 of the Cat Clamps.

In meantime, I may have solved the problem of having an older silver 7' catstrap. I painted with my High Temp Bright Orange paint today.

Update: I never heard from Catstrap on the Cat Clamps, but I did find them on their site, so add another $8 to my cost.

Looks like some vehicles have two converters so they sell a pair for those that use one strap on two converters.

https://www.catstrap.net/product-pag...mp-collars-2pc

[NXR]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I was planning on connecting to chassis battery. What if you want the House battery in store mode, then you couldn't use the alarm? Same systems on regular cars and suvs use the main battery, so I am not sure draining is a problem?

The current drain is fairly low so I wired the CatEye directly to the house batteries, before any disconnect. I've got multiple house batteries so they would last longer in storage.

The difference between a car with CatEye and a motorhome in storage is it's likely the car won't go more than a few days without being driver, maybe a week. A motorhome could be in storage for weeks and will have other parasitic drains, especially a propane leak detector.

Ray

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by NXR

The current drain is fairly low so I wired the CatEye directly to the house batteries, before any disconnect. I've got multiple house batteries so they would last longer in storage.

The difference between a car with CatEye and a motorhome in storage is it's likely the car won't go more than a few days without being driver, maybe a week. A motorhome could be in storage for weeks and will have other parasitic drains, especially a propane leak detector.

Ray

I failed to think I could have wired in front of the disconnect for House. I actually have a Disconnect that I added or my Chassis, but I seldom use.

Anyway, I have wired to Chassis and so far so good. If it is ever a problem, I can change. The posts on the chassis battery was more conducive to add this device without having to disconnect anything.

I keep the RV at home and I have 110 amp pedestal available. But I frequently disconnect during summer when hot for as long as two weeks at a time. Somebody convinced me that running converter when hot outside was not good for the battery

I will try again with more urgency to contact Catstrap as I have questions piling up for them. There documentation is poor at best.

1) They say there is short chirp when pressing A. I get 4 - 5 secs, seems kind of long to confirm it is activated. Not sure if this is related to the Orange dial that controls duration?

2) I want to know how much heat the sensor can withstands. I drove my RV around the block and I got 150 degrees on the metal right behind the transmission where I mounted the sensor. For what it is worth I got 135 degrees on the cross member tube where you had mounted yours. I worry how hot it may get on a long trip? Otherwise the spot seems perfect.

3) It is kind of weird that pressing B does not chirp to confirm system is deactivated. Then I thought maybe that is by design so if a thief were to try several remote codes, they could not just sit in the car waiting to hear a chirp unless it was already OFF and they happened to activate it?

4) It is still not clear to me if you only going to install on e 7' strap; is it better for it to run along the bottom of the pipes, the sides or top? Most pictures show bottom, but if thief starts at top the damage is done whether they get converter off or now. But it may be easier to try to cut the strap if it is on the top. I have some time before installing the Catstrap because I have to wait on the Cat Clamps to be shipped.

But for now I am protected with Orange painted Converter as visual and now Cateye siren / Alarm. Maybe in two weeks I can add the strap. I still ponder on buying a 2nd 7' strap but that may be overkill.

[NXR]

I've never had more than a day or two of delay with a contact but it seems to be a small company. I think the owner usually replies.

CatStraps were made for cars and trucks. With those, especially cars, it's about impossible to cut them from the top down. But with a motorhome the thief could sit under the motorhome and easily cut from the top down. Or the bottom up. If you install the CatStrap on the top the visual deterrent effect is reduced as soon as they slide underneath. But I may be overthinking it. I've been known to do that...

I definitely would not install on the sides. The pressure of a saw blade would force the cables together and sort of stabilize them.

I, too, was concerned about heat on the sensor but so far so good. Of course, that was only a 90 mile trip each way. Yeah, I was surprised how hot that crossmember gets. Some people installed them to the back of a basement compartment so that could work for you. Heck, if you drilled a hole in the back of the compartment you could let the thing sense motion through a hole. I just have no idea on the angles that thing can see, though. You'd have to protect the sensor and wiring from getting damaged by stuff put in the compartment but all motorhomes are different.

Frankly, I'd be astonished if each CatEye uses a unique or rolling code. There's no pairing or other setup. There's also no serial number so how could the company program one for you if you need a replacement? They would have to keep track of that somehow another way. It may be that one remote works on all installations. Interesting thought, though. Maybe I'll walk through a campground pressing the button to see if anything chirps but I doubt there are enough CatEye installations to try that.

Mine chirps for a second maximum. When it goes off it's maybe a few seconds long if I immediately freeze.

Ray

[dkoldman]

Catstrap called me this afternoon

Key takeaways.

1. They say my system is very old that is why the chirp is so long to activate and I don't have all of the adjustments. I have known of my fellow RV'er I bought from and he not the kind of person to hoodwink you, but the system while brand new is very old according to Catstrap. I had to send them pictures of the inside and I don't have all of the boards that even you show in your document. Caveat emptor, but I feel like he offered a fair price but I just didn't know or know enough to think that it lacks all of the adjustments including modifying the chirp time. I may have to buy a new Cateye, because I, like all of the bells and whistles I sensed Catstrap was wanting to help me, but technically since the system was new (but old) it was working so they couldn't cite a warranty issue.

2. I showed them the paint on Catstrap and they were impressed. They were pleased that I had already ordered from them the 2 Cat Clamps so I should be good with Catstrap. I asked my question from a few months ago which was could you get 8 or 9 ft and the answer is yes with volume. But they do have an unadvertised 3' catstrap. I don't know the cost, but I may buy that along with new CatEye and just eat my purchase as sunk cost.

I am gonna run it on the bottom so if thief is on the ground they will see. If I get the 3' catstrap; I can go end to end to the muffler.

The said the remotes are programed differently. They really liked what I cite as a potential benefit with remote being silent if already activated and/or if you deactivate. A thief can't just take a remote to test to see if they get a chirp if the RV is already enabled.

They thought the cateye placement was good and felt it should withstand 150 degrees. They stated as long as the plastic case does not melt the electronics will be fine. For added measures I added two new cable ties, not to support the case, but wrapped around the case to make a 1/8" barrier between the case and the bracket it is mounted to. The cable ties would have to melt first, but it also allows some room for air to flow behind it.

My chassis battery was 12.7 vdc yesterday and 12.7vdc today. I have the alarm activated 24/7 while parked and thus far no false alarm. But I am driving neighbors crazy playing with it though

[NXR]

Nice follow-ups, thanks. Yes, that's why I love working with small companies, both while I was working and personally. I always got great personalized service.

Some older CatStraps needed to have the adhesive slathered on separately. The new ones have the adhesive already on the CatStrap and it's heat-activated. Which do you have?

If a 3' CatStrap will fully cover the catalytic converter, extending past each neck, I'd buy it and install it on the top so two cuts are needed at the neck rather than just one. If you look at every news article showing a pile of stolen catalytic converters they're all cut at the neck. A friend who did exhaust work said the metal is softer at the neck so it's a lot easier than cutting the stainless steel exhaust. I do not know if that applies to all catalytic converters, though.

The critical part of the exhaust clamps on each end is they must be as close to the catalytic converter as possible to secure the CatStrap physically as tight against the angled part of the catalytic converter as possible. That's what keeps a thief from slipping the saw blade between the CatStrap and the converter neck.

If a thief can cut the necks off, I'd think they could roll the catalytic converter and perhaps rip or cut the adhesive off. Even if they try but cannot, you're still staring at a major repair.

That was a good idea on placing tie wraps around the tubular crossmember to act as a spacer for the motion sensor. I may have to do that.

Ray

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by NXR

Nice follow-ups, thanks. Yes, that's why I love working with small companies, both while I was working and personally. I always got great personalized service.

Some older CatStraps needed to have the adhesive slathered on separately. The new ones have the adhesive already on the CatStrap and it's heat-activated. Which do you have?

If a 3' CatStrap will fully cover the catalytic converter, extending past each neck, I'd buy it and install it on the top so two cuts are needed at the neck rather than just one. If you look at every news article showing a pile of stolen catalytic converters they're all cut at the neck. A friend who did exhaust work said the metal is softer at the neck so it's a lot easier than cutting the stainless steel exhaust. I do not know if that applies to all catalytic converters, though.

The critical part of the exhaust clamps on each end is they must be as close to the catalytic converter as possible to secure the CatStrap physically as tight against the angled part of the catalytic converter as possible. That's what keeps a thief from slipping the saw blade between the CatStrap and the converter neck.

If a thief can cut the necks off, I'd think they could roll the catalytic converter and perhaps rip or cut the adhesive off. Even if they try but cannot, you're still staring at a major repair.

That was a good idea on placing tie wraps around the tubular crossmember to act as a spacer for the motion sensor. I may have to do that.

Ray

The Catstrap company has sold me, I am a believer in them now

Yesterday, I would have all but given up on them because I had not heard back from them on what we had discussed earlier this week. But today I got a pleasant surprise when I received by 2 Cat Collars I ordered last week. In the box was a special order brand new 3' section of catstrap ( not a normal sale item), 2 extra collars ( total of 4), and more of those metal tie wraps Wow and double wow.

My Cateye is working well. I can't make it go off unless I get underneath and it stops when I freeze. I guess I will just live with the 3-5 sec siren each time I activate which I am learning is not very often. I just keep it activated until I am gonna drive it somewhere.

My 7' catstrap while old; does come with the heat activated adhesive. I don't think my self applied orange spray paint will hold up as it is already flaking when I move it. So it will go back to silver (eventually). My plan now is to put the old 7' catstrap across the bottom and the new 3' section on top of catalytic converter as you suggested.

I will mount as close to flare on the neck as possible. Since I have RV at home and doing myself, I have the luxury installing 1st with the exhaust clamps and once I confirm position, I can install the metal tie wraps and drive afterwards.

The only waffle in my mind now is whether I just go ahead and order a brand new 7' catstrap for $149? I am starting to worry if for some reason the old one does not adhere properly, or material degredates? Not sure how hard or how much pain it would be to try to change it out later?

[NXR]

I think the old one will be fine across the bottom. Remember, these are just deterrents and will not stop someone with determination and time. With the motorhome at your home it's unlikely they will have the time. I'd suspect they will just scoot when the CatEye alarm goes off.

I use a couple of Blink cameras inside the motorhome to monitor the dog and the inside temperature, via a hotspot we keep in the motorhome. When we're parked at home I put one camera underneath angled to cover the area under the catalytic converter. I actually ran into someone who does the same thing, but only after his was stolen at an RV dealer.

If it happens, I'll love to have that video and maybe a sample of the criminal's voice uttering a profanity.

Ray

[dkoldman]

I got at it this morning.

Pictures below are for feedback BEFORE I apply the metal tie wraps, tighten all bolts, and run engine a few hours to cure.

I have used six 3" clamps and two 4" Clamps. 4 Cat Collars used. I have 20 metal tie wraps; so I will get it a lot tighter once I confirm the locations.

Right now, I am seeking any input BEFORE, I make this permanent. It is not easy to move anything at this point; but technically if I have a miss I could.

[BobC]

So what happens when a legitimate installer needs to change out a converter?

[Eagle5]

Hi Bob,
I understand that once a vehicle is up off the ground, the adhesive can be peeled off, primarily because you can put your weight into it. When lying on the ground, it is not easy to generate enough pulling force to peel off the CatStrap from the piping.
Eagle5

[NXR]

Why are you using so many clamps?

If those are not stainless steel clamps like the exhaust is you may have dissimilar metal corrosion where the non-SS clamps touch the SS pipe.

There seems to be a pretty good gap where I circled.

If it needs peeled off I suspect you could run the engine to reheat the adhesive to pull the CatStrap off but I think a shop would just cut it with a torch.

After you run the engine, be sure to snug up the exhaust clamp nuts. Mine tightened up more than I would have guessed because the adhesive melted, reducing its thickness.

Ray

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by NXR

Why are you using so many clamps?

If those are not stainless steel clamps like the exhaust is you may have dissimilar metal corrosion where the non-SS clamps touch the SS pipe.

There seems to be a pretty good gap where I circled.

If it needs peeled off I suspect you could run the engine to reheat the adhesive to pull the CatStrap off but I think a shop would just cut it with a torch.

After you run the engine, be sure to snug up the exhaust clamp nuts. Mine tightened up more than I would have guessed because the adhesive melted, reducing its thickness.

Ray

Thanks for the feedback.

I have so many clamps because the fellow RV I purchased the Cateye Bundle w/Catstrap from included six 3" clamps. I admit it was a bonus because I did not expect clamps with the deal he made with me. Anyway to put exhaust clamps on the neck as you suggested, I needed two 4" clamps . So I effectively had 2 extra 3" clamps, but I don't need extra exhaust clamps; so I use them all

I don't think any of the clamps are stainless steel? I paid $17 for two 4" clamps at O Reilly's and it was only choice I had to get 4". There is corrosion already on existing clamps that came with the chassis on the pipe and the brackets that are used to support the catalytic converter, muffler and pipe underneath the chassis.

Yes I see the gap, but that is because it is not complete. This was preliminary picture. I just wanted to show visual of placement. My next step will be use the metal tie wraps to tighten down gaps and then I can tighten down the clamps.

After the adhesive seals, I will go back and retighten clamps.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by BobC

So what happens when a legitimate installer needs to change out a converter?

You mean ...

[NXR]

For whatever it's worth, I had zero gap on the slanted part of the converter with just the two exhaust clamps. The closer the exhaust clamp got to the converter the more the gap closed up.

It looked like that end of the strap was run over the upside down clamp instead of under it but the pic is a bit fuzzy.

Don't expect those steel bands to do much. They seem to pull the strap tighter against the exhaust to facilitate a tighter adhesive fit.

After I pulled mine tight using a tool, I bent the end back over the end and then cut the excess off. I didn't want the metal bands pulling out in the future and doing tire damage to me or anyone else.

Ray

[BobC]

Has anyone successfully installed them on a Suncruiser/Adventurer 35U or similar length Workhorse chassis. My converters are so exposed with several feet of exhaust pipe fore and aft but I haven't been able to get under my MH to see for sure how far I have to go to get to secure spots that are hard to cut. For some reason, the thieves only stole my passenger side converter. Progressive's insurance adjuster is meeting me next week.

I asked the claims person at Progressive if they had any recommendations as to deterrents and, surprisingly they don't. All I got was "I've heard about....".