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Old 08-25-2021, 05:36 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by SteveD49 View Post
A flexible funnel makes it easy on my View.
https://www.amazon.com/FlexAll-Funne...dp/B093WXCPJW/

It depends on what your fill valve looks like. On many Winnebago towables, it's a hose fitting, rather than an open place to pour liquid in. I use the same method - pre-measure how much bleach is needed, then pour it down the end of the fill hose, attach it to the fitting, and voilà!
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Old 08-25-2021, 05:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bobgin View Post
Cut a 4 inch square hole in the side of a 2 liter soda bottle and use it as a funnel. It fits very nicely in the fill hole on your trailer.
Some trailers don't have "fill-holes." They have a hose fitting instead, sometimes with a little screen in it. You have to find a way to first get the bleach, or whatever, into your hose and let the water carry it in there.
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Old 08-25-2021, 05:44 PM   #23
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I use one cup of bleach for 15 gallons of water. Needs two or three flushes until the bleach smell has gone.
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Old 08-25-2021, 05:54 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 1Albert2 View Post
We live on a well and don’t use chlorine to clean the fresh water tank for that reason. 1/2 gallon of white vinegar and then fill the fresh water tank then drain. We usually do that twice. No residual chlorine taste or smell
The problem with this is that vinegar is not very effective at killing bacteria as it is actually made using bacteria to make vinegar!

A small bit of info on using both:
Cleaning vinegar or white vinegar – not apple cider vinegar or wine vinegar – is most commonly chosen for cleaning. However, it's important to remember that while vinegar does work as a disinfectant to some degree, it is not as effective as bleach or commercial cleansers when it comes to killing germs.

So it does come back to knowing what level of cleaning the water and tank need. If the water and the tank are clean, no treatment needed, but if either are likely to hold bacteria, it is safer to use a real disinfectant that is recommended by the health pros.
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Old 08-25-2021, 06:55 PM   #25
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I carry a flexible funnel to add the bleach. Much less chance of splashing bleach on yourself. My wife couldn’t understand why my pants had white spots. Also use the splash less bleach.
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Old 08-25-2021, 08:29 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 1Albert2 View Post
We live on a well and don’t use chlorine to clean the fresh water tank for that reason. 1/2 gallon of white vinegar and then fill the fresh water tank then drain. We usually do that twice. No residual chlorine taste or smell
I have well water also. I'm curious what having a well has to do with not using chlorine?

My wife and I use the minimum amount of bleach Winnebago recommends -- 1/2 cup per 30 gallons, fill the tank until it just starts to overflow, run through all fixtures, and let sit for 4 hours (or more).

Drain and fill with 10-15 gallons (typically). Flush all fixtures and we're good to go. No rinse needed, no residual taste/odor.

I have a PUR filter on the kitchen faucet, and we use a Brita pitcher.

There is a 1 micron filter before the city water inlet. That comes in handy for adding chlorine bleach, as others have mentioned.
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Old 08-26-2021, 04:32 AM   #27
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I have well water also. I'm curious what having a well has to do with not using chlorine?

My wife and I use the minimum amount of bleach Winnebago recommends -- 1/2 cup per 30 gallons, fill the tank until it just starts to overflow, run through all fixtures, and let sit for 4 hours (or more).

Drain and fill with 10-15 gallons (typically). Flush all fixtures and we're good to go. No rinse needed, no residual taste/odor.

I have a PUR filter on the kitchen faucet, and we use a Brita pitcher.

There is a 1 micron filter before the city water inlet. That comes in handy for adding chlorine bleach, as others have mentioned.

Having a well should have little to nothing to do with not using bleach to disinfect a tank but more to do with using the vinegar for cleaning up lime scale and rust from the pressure tanks and plumbing.

If your coach has the EverPure H54 style system with its own separate faucet from Winnebago with the metal cartridge filter then it was set up from the factory to support super chlorination of the fresh water tank using the correct chlorine filter. This is how mine came from the factory and it works great. Yes the commercial grade beverage system filters used by coffee shops and soda fountains around the world are expensive but they do work as they should filtering out Chlorine, cysts, metals, arsenic, biologic contaminants, etc, etc. Just be sure to use the correct filter that support chlorine removal.



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Old 08-26-2021, 04:45 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by NeilV View Post
Having a well should have little to nothing to do with not using bleach to disinfect a tank but more to do with using the vinegar for cleaning up lime scale and rust from the pressure tanks and plumbing.

If your coach has the EverPure H54 style system with its own separate faucet from Winnebago with the metal cartridge filter then it was set up from the factory to support super chlorination of the fresh water tank using the correct chlorine filter. This is how mine came from the factory and it works great. Yes the commercial grade beverage system filters used by coffee shops and soda fountains around the world are expensive but they do work as they should filtering out Chlorine, cysts, metals, arsenic, biologic contaminants, etc, etc. Just be sure to use the correct filter that support chlorine removal.



Agreed. The original post said:

"We live on a well and don’t use chlorine to clean the fresh water tank for that reason. 1/2 gallon of white vinegar and then fill the fresh water tank then drain. We usually do that twice. No residual chlorine taste or smell."

That implies that they use vinegar in place of chlorine bleach for disinfection. Here are a couple good sources of info regarding bleach vs vinegar:
https://www.nsf.org/blog/consumer/re...g-with-vinegar
https://www.healthline.com/health/is...ant-properties

Bottom line, vinegar is a good cleaner but to truly disinfect, bleach is required -- especially in our fresh water tanks where there is a lot of dilution from (typically) ~30 gallons of water.

The EverPure system sounds good. My wife and I bought our rig used in 2012, and while it does have almost all available options, it did not have the filtration system. I considered adding the factory system (or similar) under the sink but ended up going with the PUR faucet filter for a few reasons:

* It is very effective. It meets both NSF 42 (taste and odor) and NSF 53 (all health related contaminants). They are serious filters.

* It is easy to install.

* It is relatively inexpensive -- both the fixture and filters.

* Storage space is very limited in the View and an under-sink filter would take up some room.

* I really didn't feel like working under the sink.

* No need to install a separate spigot for filtered water.

A note on cost -- at home we do use 2 standard size under-sink filters. They only cost ~$25/pair and last much longer. The PUR filters cost more per gallon, but because the use in the View is so limited it works out fine. Generally one filter easily lasts for an extended trip (several weeks) and then we replace it for our next trip.
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Old 08-26-2021, 08:35 PM   #29
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SAJohnson - I also have the two standard size filter system at home which is a GE however due to the use of Chloramine I have considered adding a Whole House Catalyzed Carbon filter to remove it. Chloramine when used instead of chlorine to treat municipal water systems is rougher on rubber plumbing parts such as toilet flappers and faucet washers plus it can lead to early breakdown of the resin in water softeners turning it into a paste that can get through the screen (damaging it) in the water softeners pickup tube. If you notice a yellow/orange residue in the toilet tank that is a sign that Chloramine has started breaking down the resin in a water softener and you may also notice the toilet flapper failing more frequently turning into what resembles more of a mold-able putty rather than a rubber flapper when Chloramine is being used. The failed water softener resin paste also tends to clog up ice makers, flush valves, aerators, faucets with cartridges, saddle valves, etc, etc so it is best to have a large Catalyzed Carbon filter installed before any water softener to protect the resin and have a sediment filter after it to prevent any failed resin from getting into the piping inside your home. Thankfully you can fairly easily dump the old resin out which can be used in the garden, replace the failed pickup tube and refill the resin tank in the water softener with a higher grade of resin (available in bags sized for your resin tank) which you can get at reasonable cost.

Chloramine also bothers some peoples kidneys of which my brother-in-law is so blessed and since they live in an apartment went with a four filter Burkey counter top water purifier system which has a lot greater capacity (6,000 gallons) than the PUR or Brita Pitcher Style filters. The Burkey is a Stainless Steel Urn style filter system that comes in 1.5 to 6 gallon models. Frightfully expensive to me however if you are on a well or only have access to otherwise potentially questionable water these are excellent at purification testing out as 99.999% effective at removing viruses and 99.9999% effective at removing pathogenic bacteria with the large models capable of supporting groups of up to 35 people. Many like them for camping due to how well they purify water even from somewhat questionable sources and during disasters where bottle water is not available and you'd have to find a way to boil all your water to make it safe.

Here is one of the larger models with the optional sight glass however they also make some outdoor event models with transparent containers that can support over 100 people. Systems like this made by a variety of manufacturers are used around the world where access to clean water is not guaranteed. We get a bit spoiled here in the US where we generally don't have to worry about having parasites, etc in all our food and water having to boil or otherwise purify all of it.
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Old 08-26-2021, 09:55 PM   #30
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Neil,

The Burkey counter top water purifier system is very nice. In fact, I almost bought one just because I like the elegant simplicity of the design.

It's just not necessary where we live though. My wife & I are on the side of what passes for a mountain in this part of Maryland. From here up to the top and down the other side is zoned "resource conservation" which means no commercial/industrial development of any kind. It's steep and rocky so there is no agriculture. Building lots must be at least 5 acres.

Of course, it's possible that 100% of our well water does not flow down from above us. It makes sense that it would but I honestly don't know.

Even if I did know that for a fact, I'd still filter it because -- "you never know". The filters I use are a matched pair -- Pentek, made by Pentair, about $23-$25 last I checked. Needless to say, there are many good brands. I picked these because I noticed that the filters that were top-rated in CR used them.

They have both NSF 42 and 53 ratings.

In the View, the vast majority of our water is from public sources, aka "city water". The filtration probably is not necessary, except for any chlorine taste. The PUR and Brita filters are 'just in case'. Every once in a while we get water from a source that is intended to be potable, but may be a bit questionable -- in those cases it's nice to have the filters. The 1.0 micron filter before the city water inlet is a standard size (2-1/2 x 10") filter in a clear housing. MUCH better than those blue Camco filters -- and about 1/2 the price!
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Old 08-27-2021, 08:16 AM   #31
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The thing about water from the ground is that "you never know"!
We had a community well which was always testing good as we were in a rural area and not much industry around---until it wasn't!
We were required to do the monthly testing as we had over the 100 meters which were served and the regs required the testing. Suddenly we had bad test from several of the test points and the state jumped on it to discover why!

Seems one of the local haulers had decided to shortcut the process a bit and just dumped a load of waste into an open pipe he had discovered on the back of his place, rather than trucking it to the treatment plant. Turned out that pipe was an old well pipe of some sort and dumped it in about a half mile from our wells.

Lucky we had installed an injector system and nobody got seriously ill but it did give us all a chill to think about what would have happened if we had not been treating the water as well as testing.
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Old 08-27-2021, 01:44 PM   #32
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The thing about water from the ground is that "you never know"!
We had a community well which was always testing good as we were in a rural area and not much industry around---until it wasn't!
We were required to do the monthly testing as we had over the 100 meters which were served and the regs required the testing. Suddenly we had bad test from several of the test points and the state jumped on it to discover why!

Seems one of the local haulers had decided to shortcut the process a bit and just dumped a load of waste into an open pipe he had discovered on the back of his place, rather than trucking it to the treatment plant. Turned out that pipe was an old well pipe of some sort and dumped it in about a half mile from our wells.

Lucky we had installed an injector system and nobody got seriously ill but it did give us all a chill to think about what would have happened if we had not been treating the water as well as testing.
Exactly Morich -- you never know. A water source could be pristine in the morning and contaminated that night.

There was a similar situation here in Maryland a few years ago -- during some residential construction, a sewer pipe was broken. I believe it was from a blast. In any case, the ground in that area is very porous limestone. By the time the treatment plant noticed the decrease in water entering the plant, 1,000,000 gallons had flowed into the aquifer.

There were 'boil water' advisories for weeks afterward.

Even with 'city water' you never know for sure. There can be problems with cryptosporidium, lead pipes, etc, but those issues are rare. As you said, it's water from the ground that is the larger concern.

The main thing for people to look for with filters is NSF 53 (NSF 42 is "taste & odor"). Even then, it's best to look at the test data sheet, because last I read, the NSF allows filter mfrs to claim NSF 53 certification if the filter removes just ONE (1) of the dozens of listed possible contaminants! Mfrs sometimes cheat by claiming NSF 53 when their filter is only certified to remove (say) cysts. Better mfrs make their data sheets readily available. Others make consumers email or call and request them. That's not *always* a sign they have something to hide, but it can be.
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