help starting my winnebago Motor home

Kevinlewis37 · 02-23-2020, 08:42 AM

Hi I need help starting my winnebago Motor home the break pedal makes a loud humming noise but it wont start i get nothing was wondering if anyone has haf this problem and what theu did to get it to start ty

**creativepart** · 02-23-2020, 09:33 AM

Hi Kevin, welcome

I moved your help request into it's own thread. This should help us get started trying to give you a hand.

First, we have zero idea what Winnebago you have. Could you tell us the year, the model, and floorplan, please? And tons of other things like.. when did you start it last. Has anything happened since then. Do you have fuel? Is it gas or diesel? What happens when you try to start it? Is the battery good?

See, to help you we need all this info.

The brake pedal humming is normal. Your RV has electrically assisted power brakes. When you put your foot on the brake pedal and the RV engine is off the electric assist starts pumping and that makes the humming sound.

I guess we can learn from your comment that the battery is somewhat charged up if the electric brake assist is "humming."

So, get back to us with all the details. We'll do our best to make a guess as to what your problem might be.

Also, it would help if you went into your profile here and completed it with your RV's info and then create a signature with this info as well so that it shows on every post.

Kevinlewis37 · 02-24-2020, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

Hi Kevin, welcome

I moved your help request into it's own thread. This should help us get started trying to give you a hand.

First, we have zero idea what Winnebago you have. Could you tell us the year, the model, and floorplan, please? And tons of other things like.. when did you start it last. Has anything happened since then. Do you have fuel? Is it gas or diesel? What happens when you try to start it? Is the battery good?

See, to help you we need all this info.

The brake pedal humming is normal. Your RV has electrically assisted power brakes. When you put your foot on the brake pedal and the RV engine is off the electric assist starts pumping and that makes the humming sound.

I guess we can learn from your comment that the battery is somewhat charged up if the electric brake assist is "humming."

So, get back to us with all the details. We'll do our best to make a guess as to what your problem might be.

Also, it would help if you went into your profile here and completed it with your RV's info and then create a signature with this info as well so that it shows on every post.

Ok it a 99 gas just put brand new battery in it it does nothing when I try to start no noises just the noise from the break pedal had it running last year took to get inspected and then brought it home and it has just been sitting ever since I can't even get it to crank everything else seems to work all dash lights the model number is wfl35u its a triton v10

Morich · 02-24-2020, 12:16 PM

How has the battery been maintained since added? If it has set for long, it may be dead. Is this a unit which has a battery cutoff switch to keep that drain from happening? May be a switch or not depending on which name, make, and model of RV. Cutoffs are sometimes added by previous owners, so some looking for that is going to be needed. Without knowing lots of small details, I would first start at the battery to see there is power there and find where it is not getting to the starter.
We "could" go through and sort out whether it is a Navion, Vista, Adventurer, or whatever if we looked at all the model numbers wfl35u fits but that's going to be asking a lot from folks who might want to help. If you would tell us which of about 50 types it is, we might get lots more info going.

**creativepart** · 02-24-2020, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

if we looked at all the model numbers wfl35u fits but that's going to be asking a lot from folks who might want to help. If you would tell us which of about 50 types it is, we might get lots more info going.

It's a 1999 Chieftain (Google search result).

When it comes to starting it's the same as any car.

1. Fuel
2. Air
3. Compression
4. Spark

If it won't turn over then it has to be one of these:

1. Battery
2. Starter
3. Ignition switch

It's not all that difficult. From what you are saying one would assume it's a battery problem. But, it could be one of the other problems.

We can't do much more than point to possible problems. If you don't know much about vehicle mechanics then you should hire someone to come take a look.

The easiest thing is to take the starter battery out and take it to an auto parts chain and have it load tested.

PS. As others have mentioned, if your RV has a master chassis disconnect make sure that it's not off. Because that will lead you to what you have right now - a engine that won't turn over.

**creativepart** · 02-24-2020, 02:27 PM

If you don't have an Operator's Manual Parts list for your Chieftain here's a link to a PDF for it:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/...9/99wfl35u.pdf

FOUND IT.
Here's the Operators Manual for 1999 Cheitain:

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/m...9Chieftain.pdf

Morich · 02-24-2020, 03:55 PM

Depending on age and when the builders changed to more electronics, battery, starter and ignition can be right if we add in wiring for each but as we get into newer, it becomes much more complex as we have far more safety and anti-theft items. PCM to decide of you have the correct key before letting it crank, inhibit switch or transmission range switch to make sure it is in the right gear before start, and if those are okay it can finally get down to the solenoid to pass the battery power to the starter.
Just not very simple any more. And on older RV, there is always the potential for added "features " that are not mentioned in the manuals.

RightUR · 02-26-2020, 12:17 PM

I'm gonna be wrong, but hey we're just brainstorming right? You rig is much older so I don't know if any of this applies, but I'm just trying to help, no matter how off I may be.
So when that happened to me, before bought new batteries, I'd turn on the Genny, wait 15-20 min, then hit the boost switch, turn the key and it would jump right on.
Now you said it was a '99. When was the last time you changed the spark plugs?

jerrybb · 03-01-2020, 05:28 PM

I've seen issues with the neutral start switch, try starting in neutral instead of park, maybe wiggle the shifter or bypass the switch if you can find it, usually at the base of the steering column.

Morich · 03-01-2020, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerrybb

I've seen issues with the neutral start switch, try starting in neutral instead of park, maybe wiggle the shifter or bypass the switch if you can find it, usually at the base of the steering column.

This is part of what I was hinting at but not sure how that fits on a 99. Did those get added at that point or after? I do not dig into cars often enough to see ( and remember!) what features were added when. Lots of them are great features to do things like keep people from hot wiring your car to steal it, but they do add to the problems when we have trouble.

jerrybb · 03-01-2020, 06:18 PM

I meant to say neutral SAFETY switch , and it's standard on every vehicle with an automatic trans. It won't give power to the starter unless you're in neutral or park. They sometimes get out of adjustment.

Campering · 03-01-2020, 06:22 PM

Unless you have the chassis battery disconnected over the winter that battery is flat. Put it on a charger for a day.

Bo Walker · 03-01-2020, 07:02 PM

My motor home did the same thing less the brake noise. The problem was a solenoid outside on the driver's side in a black box.
I hope by now you have yours started.

Jim Schmidt · 03-01-2020, 08:26 PM

So it sounds like you might not be very mechanically/electrically oriented so I would suggest that you try the following in order to avert the big cost: getting it towed to the shop.

Pull the battery and get it load tested. If needed, replace the battery.

With a good battery installed, if it still doesn’t turn over, clean up all the electrical connections to the starter/solenoid. Both positive and grounds. This includes the battery terminals. Makes sure all these connections get reassembled with dielectric grease. These bad electrical connections, especially grounds, are a big problem with older electrical systems. My 2008 Sprinter had intermittent failures to turn over and it was simply a bad starter ground.

If these items don’t work, get a mechanic to look at it. You are not likely to guess your way through the problem. Don’t dispair, however, probably just a starter solenoid or starter.

Remember, the cost will be just a few tanks of fuel and it is always better to find it and get it fixed at home rather than on the road!!

Good luck.

NeilV · 03-01-2020, 10:04 PM

First off there are a few parasitic draws on a 1999 35U on a Ford F53 Chassis which is something along the lines of an Adventurer. On those the engine battery will not get charged by the built in charger and if the new battery was not charged overnight before installing it then it would be doubtful that it would be able to start the coach even after a few days. First go to the One Place Panel and press the button to display engine battery voltage and if its less than 12 volts its debatable on whether you would get more than the sound of the electric backup pump on the brakes when you turn the key. As others have mentioned start off by fully charging that battery using an automotive battery charger and then try again. Consider in the future getting a good sized solar battery maintainer to leave on the dashboard to help keep the battery charged. Even jump starting that coach with a low battery can be tricky since the Ford needs a nearly fully charged battery in order to start.

Now if it has not been started in a year there is also a chance that there is some corrosion on the starters electrical connections or inside it on the solenoid or its copper armature. Sometimes tapping it will help if fully charging the battery does not.

Hopefully your not in an area prone to rodents chewing on engine wiring.

Rorytug · 03-02-2020, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Schmidt

So it sounds like you might not be very mechanically/electrically oriented so I would suggest that you try the following in order to avert the big cost: getting it towed to the shop.

Pull the battery and get it load tested. If needed, replace the battery.

With a good battery installed, if it still doesn’t turn over, clean up all the electrical connections to the starter/solenoid. Both positive and grounds. This includes the battery terminals. Makes sure all these connections get reassembled with dielectric grease. These bad electrical connections, especially grounds, are a big problem with older electrical systems. My 2008 Sprinter had intermittent failures to turn over and it was simply a bad starter ground.

If these items don’t work, get a mechanic to look at it. You are not likely to guess your way through the problem. Don’t dispair, however, probably just a starter solenoid or starter.

Remember, the cost will be just a few tanks of fuel and it is always better to find it and get it fixed at home rather than on the road!!

Good luck.

Back in the day, Fords were notorious for starter solenoids failing. The nice part was they are usually accessible and easily jumped with a heavy duty screwdriver you didn't mind getting weld marks on. I don't even know if Ford still has remote starter solenoids.....or where they put them on a motorhome.

jerichorick · 03-05-2020, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevinlewis37

Hi I need help starting my winnebago Motor home the break pedal makes a loud humming noise but it wont start i get nothing was wondering if anyone has haf this problem and what theu did to get it to start ty

The starter is not engaging the fly wheel. You need a new starter solenoid.