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Old 11-07-2020, 10:06 AM   #1
JEF
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
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Fuse Location? Shuflo Whisper King 2093 Water pump

We have inherited a 1996 Vectra. It is in pristine condition, however, it has been connected to city water for 7 years and the water pump has not been used. We cannot get it to turn on. We think there may be a fuse that is blown, however, we cannot locate one in any of the fuse compartments. We have disconnected the wires from the pump and hooked it up to a battery and it works, however, there is no power to the indicator light on the monitor panel and by turning that switch on, the water pump isn't working. Is there someplace else we can look for a fuse or any ideas of what may be wrong.
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Old 11-07-2020, 10:19 AM   #2
Winnebago Master
 
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Location: Pflugerville/Austin, Tx
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Seven different models of Vectra for that year, so before looking at drawings it would be best to know which model?
Each model has multiple options which make looking through all the different ones pretty bad! If unsure of the model, there may still be a label under or near the drivers window?
Depending on model there may actually be more than one switch and other things to check.
Possible location for water pump fuse (JA) on some models:
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Old 11-07-2020, 11:07 AM   #3
JEF
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Thank you. I will check it out. FYI the Motorhome model is WCM 34RA
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Old 11-09-2020, 10:12 AM   #4
JEF
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Hi there. The breaker doesn't seem be the problem. Could there be a sensor in the water tank that will not allow the pump to work if there is no water in it? We have looked for an inline fuse and no luck. There seems to be no power to the main switch on the monitor panel. So frustrating.
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Old 11-09-2020, 01:35 PM   #5
Winnebago Master
 
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Okay, with that info we can do some looking at how the power gets to the pump.
Yes, frustrating as there are so many options and little hidden things we normally don't have to get into.
But it is usually just a matter of a bit of corrosion or something has come loose along the line and we need to sort through all the possible points that can happen. You are lucky in that your year is one that as all the drawings posted in schematic form which can letus follow a specific wire from start to finish and the drawing does give locations for those connections, making it easier than just looking at the whole RV!
To better advise on how to test, what do you have on hand? A meter is a really good thing but we might need to work out other tests if no meter.
Not expecting to have the tank switch mentioned, though.
Are the breakers on the same line at the power panel labeled, so that you can locate other things on other breakers to make sure the power is getting to that breaker or can you test for voltage there?
From this chart:
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram...ical_guide.pdf
We see that wire "WC" is power to compartment lights, so knowing those work, will let us assume there is power to "JA" as they are connected to the same bus bar! Not a 100% as the breaker could be bad, etc. but a place to start.
I will do a bit of looking and get back with some other info and places to start checking.
This is the wiring for your specific unit but don't let it boggle you if not used to reading them as they tend to look like GREEK!
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Old 11-09-2020, 02:07 PM   #6
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I see you should have a water pump switch in the bath as well. Have you tried it to see if it works from that location? Also, do you know of other switches that control the pump, like in the wet bay, etc. as those should also be checked.

A bit of guessing as I don't know your RV but this second snip seems to indicate there are three switches? Or is that just part of the confusion with how Winnebago thinks on things!!!
click the pictures to get a better view.
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Old 11-09-2020, 05:09 PM   #7
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I now see there are three pump switches, one in the bath, one in the wet bay and one at the monitor and that makes chasing the power a bit harder as that type switch has to have contact through wires going to the other switches, so that any switch being open will not keep the others from working. This is a snip of how the wires are laid out on the bath and I would guess the same at the other switches.
But before getting too deep in chasing power at each switch, make sure there is good ground getting to the pump! That would be easier to chase as the ground only comes from a connection shown near/under the bath vanity maybe, and doesn't wander all over the RV like the power going to all the switches.
I check the easier things first!
JA is the hot wire, but FJ and FK have to work to carry that power to the other switches!
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Old 11-09-2020, 05:45 PM   #8
JEF
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Richard, you are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much. We will chase all these leads down. Yes, we have a meter and tester. We are taking a couple of days off this frustrating issue, but I will get back to you later this week when we tackle all the options. Thanks again for all your info.
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:20 PM   #9
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OH YES! A man with a meter can be a wonderful thing and beyond that, setting here doing a bit of study can be far better than trying to find something on TV to keep my mind from going to silly putty!
Let us know how it goes and don't feel rushed on my part. These things can drive us up the walls at times and one thing that helps is to just take a break at times!
These circuits with multiple switches are a bear to sort out and I can't even draw one out without a gross amount of thinking!
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Old 11-15-2020, 06:02 PM   #10
Winnie-Wise
 
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Aren't these two water pump switches wired like a 3-way switch?

I modified the diagram below, but before you consider it I would like someone else to bless it.

* I seem to remember something about the silver coated switch lead as being the positive lead. Is this true?

* In Morich's diagram above it implies the center pole of the 3-way switch is the "JA" or hot wire. ...But we also know there are 2 water pump switches. So how do you know which one is the "master" and which switch is the "slave?"

I would think the master or primary switch would be the one in the bathroom area, but I really have no idea.

HOW TO TEST A SWTICH: To know if a switch is bad you can do a "continuity check" with your volt meter. ...Just switch the switch in on direction and see if you get a "beep?" Then switch it in the other direction and see it if beeps!

If it was my switch, before I removed the wires, I would spray inside the switch with contact cleaner and then see if you water pump starts to work.

One time my water pump stopped working and the problem was rusty "pig tail" connection. Unscrew your wire nuts and see. Then just cut the ends off and use pig tail connectors... or whatever connectors you want.
This will help your pump get full 12V power too!
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