Front A/C inadequate for Yuma summers

jc_39 · 06-23-2022, 12:40 AM

I just bought this used 2019 Sightseer two weeks ago (with only 9,000 miles on it).

It gets over 100 a lot here in Yuma, AZ. The front A/C just doesn't seem adequate to keep the RV cool. Earlier today when the outside temp was 105, the inside got up to 95. But the bedroom stays cool at 81 (with the door closed). If I leave the bedroom door open with the A/C on, it cools down the hall where the front A/C thermometer is and fools the front A/C into thinking that it doesn't need to be on - and then it really heats up in the front.

When the front A/C is on (like now), a temperature probe at the vent is showing 80 (the room temp is 82, outside temp is 95). I've seen it as cold as 68 at the vent, but it doesn't seem to stay that cold for long. Why is that?

I am having MagneShades installed on all the front windows in a few weeks. I'm hoping that will help, but I'm still concerned that the air coming out of the A/C units never gets cold enough to really do any good. If I could keep the front at 80 like I can in the bedroom, I would be happy.

**creativepart** · 06-23-2022, 07:13 AM

It is just a fact of RV life that motorhomes are not well insulated and not made for temperature extremes. There is not much more extreme than Yuma, AZ in the summertime.

If you think your A/C is not blowing cold enough put an instant read thermometer in the air flow to see how cold the air is. It should be 20 - 25 degrees colder that the outside air temp.

The sun on your RV is the problem and you need to minimize afternoon sun. The front windows are huge heat generators so blocking them would help.

But really everything you do will only be a bandaid. The usual way to avoid this issue is to get in the driver’s seat and drive north in the summer… and then drive south in the winter.

Scotty B · 06-23-2022, 07:48 AM

you're probably already doing this, but the other point might be to open the vents on the unit itself vs. having them closed so the air goes through the ducts - if you have a ceiling mounted unit.
Made a significant difference on our travel trailer and assume it would be the same for a MH.
Then when the sun goes down and temps fall a bit - you can reverse the flow back through the vents.

deckape · 06-23-2022, 11:59 AM

Pull both sun shades ,( black screens ) and night shades ( white screens ) ,on windows thru out coach . Get a box fan and currulate more air though coach . Position coach so front area is not in direct sun morning or sun set . Put awning out to shade coach .

thataway4 · 07-03-2022, 07:20 PM

Thru the years I have used different treatments on the large windows. Easiest is to get "Reflectix " at Lowes or Home Depot. This is mylar coated bubble wrap, and can be cut to fit windshield and all side windows. (I do have the MagneShades also).

I have also cut the 1/2" thick foam back packing pads from Walmart and cut them for the windows. I find this works best for winter use. But you can use both pads and Reflectix. This will most likely be enough to bring the main saloon down in temp.

Wayne M · 07-04-2022, 07:26 AM

I cut Reflectix for all my cabinet and closet walls.

Hermes2 · 07-04-2022, 08:01 AM

Ditto on the Everbilt 48 in. x 25 ft. Double Reflective Insulation, about $55 for 48" x 25' at Home Depot.

We were in Las Vegas this time last year. Over 110 degrees at noon and front window facing west. Registered 95+ at the drivers' seat with both AC's going and about 75 at the back.

After cutting the reflective insulation to fit the windows (easy with scissors) and installing it with velcro Command strips, the temps dropped to 80 in the front and 70 in the back. With a couple of small fans going, it leveled out to about 75 front to back.

Have the insulation rolled up and stowed in the basement now for when we're camping in similar heat.

SgtB · 07-04-2022, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scotty B

you're probably already doing this, but the other point might be to open the vents on the unit itself vs. having them closed so the air goes through the ducts - if you have a ceiling mounted unit.
Made a significant difference on our travel trailer and assume it would be the same for a MH.
Then when the sun goes down and temps fall a bit - you can reverse the flow back through the vents.

^^
I agree with Scotty, but don't know what type ACs you have. On mine, as Scotty, says, I can open the vents on the AC to stop air from going through the ducting, which allows much more air flow at the vicinity of the AC. We are in SWFL and July/Aug can be brutal, but not as bad as Yuma. I open the vents on the front AC, but close the vent on the rear AC so the air does come through the ducting. But as a few have said, these rigs are not made for temp extremes. We were snowbirds from the north for many years. Now that we live in SWFL, we are the opposite, we go north during July/August.

jc_39 · 07-11-2022, 08:03 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I'm convinced that my units are working as best as they can. The only way I can get the place as cold as possible is to open the vents, which does reduce what comes out of the small ports. In more temperate conditions, the vents can stay closed and get adequate cooling.

I have ordered MagneShades for the front windows, and I just bought Reflectix to install on the inside. But it's way too hot now to work on installing the Reflectix. (Catch-22)