For all Intents and purposes

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by lenore

I just made this same latch for my Vita. Where did you get red bumper material? My Vita has a Danby refrigerator with two mounting screws. Used for transferring door swing.

Just throwing my 2 cents in. I have no idea, but ClosetMaid makes end caps for their wire shelving system. Might work. FYI, I believe the end caps come in 2 or 3 different sizes.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Wyatt, I'm not familiar with the battery compartment on the Intent, but the batteries you're planning on getting are 150 aH batteries which is great, but they are longer, wider and much taller than the typical Group 31 NAPA batteries that WBGO installs. Are you sure those will fit?

And yes, they are 96 lbs each!.

The typical Group 31 Lifeline batter is the GPL-31T. It's 105 aH and standard Group 31 sizing. It weighs 60lbs, too.

It makes sense when you think about it, but the Amp Hours of a battery are directly related to the physical size of the battery and the weight of the battery.

A smaller Group 24, like in a smaller Class C is limited to a top amp hour rating of about 85 aH. When you step up in size to the larger cased Group 31 the typical largest amp hour rating is ~105.

That's why the battery you've picked is capable of 150 aH but is a quite a bit larger size and higher weight, too.

Golf Cart 6v batteries can be twice the amp hour rating of a 12v at a given battery size because of the smaller number of internal cells needed to produce 6v.

Hi Creativepart,

Thanks for your input.

Actually, they're not that much larger—just taller, which we have room for.

I looked at the GPL-31T which would be virtually an exact swap out, but I'm not gaining any AMP hours.

Napa 31-650 vs Lifeline 3PL 30HT

L = 13" vs. 13.46"
W = 6.75 vs 6.77
H = 9.9 vs. 11.95 (~2" taller)

Weight 60# ea. vs. 90# ea. (they changed their weight when they redesigned the battery)
AMP hr 105 vs 150

So total amp hr goes from 210 to 300 by adding 60# of weight, as if I added one more Napa battery @ 60#, which would actually get me more Amp hr (105 x 3 ) = 315.

Problem here is, I don't have room for one more battery in that compartment.

I can't even reach the back three cells to check the levels right now on the Napa batteries I have, so AGM will solve that issue.

I don't know, they just seem like a good "fit", no pun intended...

[creativepart]

Wyatt, if you're confident they'll fit, and you have the capacity for the extra weight, then why not.

In general, the Intent is smaller than my Adventurer, so I'm surprised you have that much extra room. I have 4-AGMs that came OEM from the factory. So, 400 aHs or 200 aH usable. I haven't measured my battery compartment but I think it would be difficult to wedge those onto my battery tray.

[feiter]

Hi creativepart and thanks for posting your video on install of BMV712 Battery Monitor. I didn't see this until a little while ago and AFTER I mounted the 712 today. My AGM batteries arrived a day early today also but wanted to get the Monitor mounted first as that is the first step in the instructions also. Took me about 2 hours and 30-45 minutes was fishing the data cable. Interesting, while you went from inside the unit I started at the battery compartment and pushed cable up from the bottom as first step in the install. Also removed the Air return grille and the propane detector as you did. I drilled a 3/8" hole up from the battery compartment through the INSULATION surrounding the cables running into the RV. Was really easy to push the data cable up into the sink area and over near the propane detector. I also used a fish tape and had some trouble getting it to the bottom and success came on third try. I used a 2 1/8" hole saw and fished the data cable up through it. I actually mounted my unit below the main info center rather than above as you did. Tommorrow I install my new batteries and the rest of the monitor system. Thanks for posting and it should be a great help to anyone with an Intent.

[feiter]

Hi all. I am very lucky to live only a few miles from YGOHOME and yesterday picked up my Robb designed and built refrigerator retainer replacing the stripped screw in PIA that is standard.

Thanks so much for making extra and letting me improve my Intent with your engineering marvel.

below are a few pictures to show in place.

I LOVE IT!! You're the best!

GTW--for those who don't have this unit as yet but did strip the stock screw in unit see the black filler to the far left? remove that and I believe you will have an additional hole to screw in the PIA. Robbs design uses this hole also.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by feiter

Hi all. I am very lucky to live only a few miles from YGOHOME and yesterday picked up my Robb designed and built refrigerator retainer replacing the stripped screw in PIA that is standard.

Thanks so much for making extra and letting me improve my Intent with your engineering marvel.

below are a few pictures to show in place.

I LOVE IT!! You're the best!

GTW--for those who don't have this unit as yet but did strip the stock screw in unit see the black filler to the far left? remove that and I believe you will have an additional hole to screw in the PIA. Robbs design uses this hole also.

Love it! What a great fix. How many more left?

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

You are correct my friend. That's why I reposted the breaker modification to energize all recepticals whether on shore power or not.

Denny

Hi Denny, This thread has gotten so long I’m missing things. Could you be kind enough to give me a link to that breaker mod you did? Thanks!

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by feiter

Hi creativepart and thanks for posting your video on install of BMV712 Battery Monitor. I didn't see this until a little while ago and AFTER I mounted the 712 today. My AGM batteries arrived a day early today also but wanted to get the Monitor mounted first as that is the first step in the instructions also. Took me about 2 hours and 30-45 minutes was fishing the data cable. Interesting, while you went from inside the unit I started at the battery compartment and pushed cable up from the bottom as first step in the install. Also removed the Air return grille and the propane detector as you did. I drilled a 3/8" hole up from the battery compartment through the INSULATION surrounding the cables running into the RV. Was really easy to push the data cable up into the sink area and over near the propane detector. I also used a fish tape and had some trouble getting it to the bottom and success came on third try. I used a 2 1/8" hole saw and fished the data cable up through it. I actually mounted my unit below the main info center rather than above as you did. Tommorrow I install my new batteries and the rest of the monitor system. Thanks for posting and it should be a great help to anyone with an Intent.

The reason I started to fish the wires from the inside panel down, was I wasn’t sure if that placement would even work, and I didn’t cut the hole until it was all connected. I actually fished the wires through the Winnebago control panel first, and then down into the battery compartment. I could just imagine having a big hole in my wall and not be able to connect it! Glad it worked, sorry the video was a day late.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by feiter

Hi creativepart and thanks for posting your video on install of BMV712 Battery Monitor. I didn't see this until a little while ago and AFTER I mounted the 712 today. My AGM batteries arrived a day early today also but wanted to get the Monitor mounted first as that is the first step in the instructions also. Took me about 2 hours and 30-45 minutes was fishing the data cable. Interesting, while you went from inside the unit I started at the battery compartment and pushed cable up from the bottom as first step in the install. Also removed the Air return grille and the propane detector as you did. I drilled a 3/8" hole up from the battery compartment through the INSULATION surrounding the cables running into the RV. Was really easy to push the data cable up into the sink area and over near the propane detector. I also used a fish tape and had some trouble getting it to the bottom and success came on third try. I used a 2 1/8" hole saw and fished the data cable up through it. I actually mounted my unit below the main info center rather than above as you did. Tommorrow I install my new batteries and the rest of the monitor system. Thanks for posting and it should be a great help to anyone with an Intent.

I actually decided to mount the Battery Voltage Meter, Solar charge controller output, and 120 Volt monitor, just below the Entry on the right Hand side just below the AC receptacle. (Since my office is the passenger seat, it is easy for me to see what is going on.... Energy wise) Wyatt, good choice on Napa Replacements. Yes I am using AGM's with Lead Acid. Works fine. I check the bats with my load tester every 6 months, as I am off the grid, and they are 100 % as of last month. My AGM's (4 years old), and Napa's (2 years old) test still 100% with the load test of 15 seconds.

Denny

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by feiter

The picture is what you see if you remove the back panel under the sink. The Inverter is seen by removing the bottom right panel. The plug you see going into the inverter comes from the large black box seen in this picture.

Trying to figure out all the rest of it thought.

Wyatt...tried to just send this to you as part of our messaging but looks like we can't include pics using the private message area. When you said you attach the wires to the inverter plug is this where you did that?

Is this the push button CB you used?

https://www.amazon.com/Push-Button-R.../dp/B000S5TI5K

Wyatt, this the the post of the circuit breaker. The object is to remove black wires from house CB panel #2 and #3 and connect them thru this circuit breakers (2) from Amazon and then connect the breakers to the plug connected to the output of the Inverter under the sink, using a junction box.

Denny

[feiter]

Wyatt...sorry for crediting creativepart for YOUR great Video on 712 install and all the hard work. It is very well done and as I said I do wish I would have seen before I did it.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Love it! What a great fix. How many more left?

How difficult would it be to make one yourself I wonder. What parts go into it?

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Wyatt, this the the post of the circuit breaker. The object is to remove black wires from house CB panel #2 and #3 and connect them thru this circuit breakers (2) from Amazon and then connect the breakers to the plug connected to the output of the Inverter under the sink, using a junction box.

Denny

Wyatt, Feiter on a PM, came up with a post from another forum where one just hooks one live receptacle (inverter) to a dead receptacle, and it seems to work.
At 1st I thought there maybe a problem when shore power is applied. But with the Transfer Relay doing its job, this maybe an ok Mod. What do you think? Sure would be easier than my approach.

Denny

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Hi Denny, I’m not sure I understand your question?

The taillights from E-trailer don't have replacement LED lamps. Is that correct?

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

The taillights from E-trailer don't have replacement LED lamps. Is that correct?

Ah, now I get where you are going. No, those LED taillights I used are like a circuit board of small LED lamps. I suppose if you were deft at electronics, one could solder a new one in, but then the one next to it would probably be ready to go as well.

Initially, I purchased replacement LED bulbs from a place called Batteries and Bulbs. Problem is, the brake/tail bulbs are dual filament, and they only had the single filament ones for the backup light, so I returned them.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/?locat...BoCXnkQAvD_BwE

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Wyatt, this the the post of the circuit breaker. The object is to remove black wires from house CB panel #2 and #3 and connect them thru this circuit breakers (2) from Amazon and then connect the breakers to the plug connected to the output of the Inverter under the sink, using a junction box.

Denny

Thanks again Denny, I guess I got my posts mixed up.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Wyatt, Feiter on a PM, came up with a post from another forum where one just hooks one live receptacle (inverter) to a dead receptacle, and it seems to work.
At 1st I thought there maybe a problem when shore power is applied. But with the Transfer Relay doing its job, this maybe an ok Mod. What do you think? Sure would be easier than my approach.

Denny

Hmm. I’m going to sleep on that one. I wonder how that’s working for Feiter?

[Wyatt]

Let’s see where this one goes...😷😂

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3859037

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Ah, now I get where you are going. No, those LED taillights I used are like a circuit board of small LED lamps. I suppose if you were deft at electronics, one could solder a new one in, but then the one next to it would probably be ready to go as well.

Initially, I purchased replacement LED bulbs from a place called Batteries and Bulbs. Problem is, the brake/tail bulbs are dual filament, and they only had the single filament ones for the backup light, so I returned them.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/?locat...BoCXnkQAvD_BwE

OK understand Wyatt. I will see if I can find a dual 3156 LED

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

OK understand Wyatt. I will see if I can find a dual 3156 LED

Yes, that’d be a great way to go. Let us know if you find them. I was on the road when doing that mod, so since they didn’t have it in stock, so went I a different direction.