For all Intents and purposes

[feiter]

Hi Wyatt.. thanks for your help. Both propane and smoke detector have test buttons. Is there another way to test? The propane tester is at floor level on main switch pillar next to bathroom. I am told it is low as propane is heavier than air and sinks. Have to admit I was wondering if smell was from exhaust vent directly below galley window which has been open.

[Wyatt]

If the propane detector does not go off, than you either have a faulty detector, or no detectable amount of propane. Now this is out of the box, and I’m not saying that YOU should do this, but if it were me, I’d go and get my propane torch, and put it near (not pointed at), the mounted detector, and pull the trigger enough to lease propane, but not ignite it.if your detector works, you probably don’t have a propane leak.
Still does not answer the question of why it only happens when running the hot water, with, I’m assuming, when the water tank is heating. Actually, you did not say that exactly, but that’s when you seem to notice it. Any other times you notice it? A faulty thermocouple in the oven could leave the pilot light leaking. Smell gas when you open the oven door? Careful now...if it’s full of gas, it could blow up if ignited.
When my dining table window is open, and the engine is on, I too smell exhaust in the coach, so don’t do that.

[feiter]

Well, good and bad news! Bad first...I am pretty stupid! Checked a few other boards for propane smell and noticed numerous said to check the stove...yup! This dummy inadvertently had the left burner on the stove turned to lite!!! Never thought to check it...haven't actually used the stove much and was shocked to see how easy it is to bump a knob and open the gas flow.

The good news...everything is working great and we can continue our Nevada trip having nothing but fun! I had actually found a Vegas Dealer I was going to drive to! I just cooked a mushroom omelette on the stove!

More good news...I guess...I was awakened at 4 am by the propane detector going off! So it works too! Why it took so long I don't know and assume the level had never been high enough. Detector went back to green quickly after I opened the windsows for about 5 minutes...went off again about 4 times and every 15 minutes or so. I had not turned the gas off outside and assumed the gas switch controlled the flow to everl gas appliance...not true obviously...only hot water and furnace off that switch.

Thanks to everyone who tried to help...you are all great. BTW...sure wish I had a better fridge hold close...mine is so badly stripped now I can barely screw it in far enough to work!

Wish us luck at the tables...going to try my hand at poker for the first time...usually Blackjac my loosing site!

[Fritos55]

Boy! I haven't been on the Forum since Sept and I can see I missed a lot!

Update on our 29L: We're at 16K miles and counting. Been up & down the midwest - Neb, MN, Iowa & back to TX. Getting ready to head to Palm Desert to meet our son when he goes to a conference out there. Planning to take most of March to do that. San Antonio, NM, Phoenix to visit our niece, Joshua Tree NP, and then back again.

Last I posted, we were getting ready to install a Roadmaster Steering Stabilizer and that definitely does the trick! Much better handling in the wind, passing semi's etc.

Latest enhancement is that we bought a 2020 Honda Fit (manual transmission) to tow behind 4 down. My wife loves to drive the Fit. I'm a big guy so it's a bit of a squeeze for me, but we're pretty happy all in all with the car. Bought a Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain tow bar and tow plate and had that installed, along with a Demo Stay-in-Play Duo braking system. When we got the Fit home after towing it back from the installation, my wife noticed a hissing when the car was turned on but no brake applied. It went away as soon as she applied the brake. And on occasion, we'd get 4 dash lights that came on. Took it back to the installer - no clue but it must be a Honda thing. Called Demco and their first reaction was that one of the self-tapping screws had penetrated the brake booster. Took it to Honda - no clue, but it must be a Demco thing. Discussed with Demco again and they sent me to one of their top installation place in Bryan TX (2 hours away). They spent 4 hours troubleshooting and it now appears that Demco was right from the start - one of the self-tapping screws that holds the cylinder bracket to the firewall behind the brake peddle managed to penetrate the brake booster. They're ordered a new booster - which was tough to find since no one thinks a new brake booster might be needed for a 2020 Fit! haha We're hoping to pick up the Fit tomorrow and hoping everything is good to go.

Assuming this fixes the issue with the brake assist system, we're really pleased with the Fit, towing the car behind our 29L and having alternative transportation. Looking forward to our trip to CA.

[Wyatt]

Well, this really isn't an install video complete with unpacking−anyone can find those on-line. But for those with an Intent−specifically the 26m−this video might save you some of the frustration in trying to figure out how to get the cable from the battery compartment up to the panel in the RV with the gauges.

https://vimeo.com/392578104

[K9AEG]

Has anyone noticed the Intent has no headlight on alarm for all us absent minded professors?

I bought a cheap $5 buzzer and followed the instructions from the Inet, and works great. I used the diode method and used Tap a Fuse make the connections.

[Wyatt]

Having not been able to look at the anode in the water heater when the unit was new, (we bought a 2018 model new in 2019 so water may have been sitting in the tank for as long as a year and a half). I have no idea what it looked
like when it was new, nor what percentage weight it had originally. I’m including a picture of the anode I removed today when I flushed the hot water tank I’m wondering if anyone can tell me if there is useful life left, or should I replace it? I’m thinking it’s probably good for a while still. Thoughts?

[BROAD ST]

Got my intent back,they replaced the hydraulic lines on my leveling jacks.replaced the water manifold ,fixed the steps coming into the coach,it has been in the shop for 1/3 of the year when we bought it last jan 7th,(4 months)

[Wyatt]

That sounds frustrating as heck. Ours was sold to us without the dealer replacing the AC evap., even though I specifically asked of the AC had been fixed, as I had read on-line about the issue. I should have called Winnebago first with the Vin number because I drove it home 450 miles in 100° temperatures back in July 2019 with no air-conditioning coming out of the front cab. I was pretty POD at that and when I called Winnebago they said, well the dealer never did the recall on your unit. So Winnebago said you’d have to go through the dealer and I told them they’re 450 miles away that’s ridiculous. I put enough pressure on them that they made an accommodation where within two weeks I had the eve app installed by a dealer closer to me of my choice. I waited around for the 6 hour job and drive it home the same day. Once the dealers get your rig they go to the back of the line in terms of warranty repairs which apparently happened to you as well. Sorry I think they should have to weigh your monthly payment every month they stick it in the back of the repair shop. I don’t trust him at all.

Anyway glad you got your rig back finally. Now you get to finally enjoy it right!

By the way what was wrong with your water manifold? Mine was leaking into the compartment and I had to Drain the coach and simply put some Teflon tape on the threads and put it back together.

[K9AEG]

My dealer I bought from, was 2000 miles away. Taking it to a more local dealer was no picnic as they told me since I didn't buy there, their customers come 1st. They were true to their word there, let me say. My coach was there 2 months for AC and 5 other problems. They finally fixed 3 of the 5, but couldn't find a place to do the ac changeout. So I took it home and had the local shop in town, who isn't afraid to work on anything, change it out. Took 3.5 hours. I had to pay them, and have Winnebago reimburse me, which was quite painless to my surprise. My water manifold also leaked right from the start, and I just had to tighten up the connectors.

The fresh water tanks (2) are a joke. Being so shallow when I park on a slant, I loose my water. Also my 2nd tank, they forgot to instal a fill plumbing. Someday maybe I will install it myself. Would have to remove the Tailgate equipment.

BTW I corrected the loosing water syndrome by adding a one -way valve to overflow pipe. Lets air in but no water out. When filling, I have a valve that bypasses the one-way.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

My dealer I bought from, was 2000 miles away. Taking it to a more local dealer was no picnic as they told me since I didn't buy there, their customers come 1st. They were true to their word there, let me say. My coach was there 2 months for AC and 5 other problems. They finally fixed 3 of the 5, but couldn't find a place to do the ac changeout. So I took it home and had the local shop in town, who isn't afraid to work on anything, change it out. Took 3.5 hours. I had to pay them, and have Winnebago reimburse me, which was quite painless to my surprise. My water manifold also leaked right from the start, and I just had to tighten up the connectors.

The fresh water tanks (2) are a joke. Being so shallow when I park on a slant, I loose my water. Also my 2nd tank, they forgot to instal a fill plumbing. Someday maybe I will install it myself. Would have to remove the Tailgate equipment.

BTW I corrected the loosing water syndrome by adding a one -way valve to overflow pipe. Lets air in but no water out. When filling, I have a valve that bypasses the one-way.

Hey Denny, I did not know, there are two fresh waster tanks on the Intent?

[Wyatt]

We live in California, and if you’ve seen how fast a wildfire can move, one has little precious time to be packing up a campsite. And since we’re on a mandatory Covid-19 shelter in place order, I have nothing but time on my hands...hopefully...

Here’s my thought process. I’ve been contemplating this for awhile. Leaving camp is a slow process. In an emergency, such as a wildfire, having to evacuate in a moments notice would be challenging.
I have quick connects/disconnects on my fresh water intake, cable connection and of course sewer.
The cog in the wheel is the shoreline power cord. Our RV’s do not have an exterior disconnect, but rather the cord must be disconnected from shore, and then bound back into the compartment.

This process takes the most amount of time, and if we only had moments to evacuate a campsite, we couldn’t pull out until that electrical “umbilical cord” was stored.

My answer to this is to cut the cord in the compartment and add a 30 amp MALE connector, that can reach to the female outlet on the generator side.

Then I’m adding a 30 amp FEMALE connector to the other end of the long shoreline cord. On shoreline power, these two plugs would mate in the storage bay when on shoreline power. When on generator power, the short male end simply connects into the generator receptacle.

This will allow me, should I need to exit in a catastrophic event, to quickly disconnect the shoreline power in the storage compartment, and abandon the shoreline cord, as I would with my water quick disconnect and hoses, and pull out hastily and get out of Dodge.

An added benefit is now my surge protector can be locked up inside of the bay while in operation.

The only downside I can see is that once I cut this power cord, and connect the aftermarket male/female connections is these are not waterproof, although they are sealed, as is the current cord. I’m not too worried about that issue as these two connections will always remain inside on the storage bay.

Any thoughts on this design?

[lenore]

the weakest point on those lines are the plugs. When the male enters the female portion of the two plugs and jacks there can be loose contacts or corrosion. I would definelty lube with some electrolytic grease to prevent arcs and burn. Most of these are unfortunately made in China and the quality is poor.

[Wyatt]

Thanks, Hmm. Ok, I have the grease. I’d hate to sever the mothership on a whim, but I think it’s the right thing to do.

[Wyatt]

We have a mandated shelter in place order by our county, so I’m using this downtime to get some of my mods finished.

Today was all about adding dimmer switches to the coach, instead of the on/off switches. Makes for nice evening ambiance.

Then, I added an AC 120v receptacle to the lower storage bay adjacent the battery compartment, so I could power our ice maker while driving on generator, since we run it once a month on trips anyway. That way, when we get to camp, the ice is ready.

[theSane]

Do the factory bulbs support dimming, or did you have to swap them out?

[Wyatt]

The switches I installed were for the stock ceiling LED’s in the main cabin, shower area, bathroom and bedroom. They all dim just fine and do not flicker, using that switch I included a screenshot of from Amazon.
I’ve also replaced All other incandescent bulbs from the amber step light, to the storage bay lights, closest, running lights, porch light (now motion activated),headlights, brake lights, even the refrigerator light, I’ve got a lot of time on my hands I guess...

[K9AEG]

Yes, there are two tanks. Pull drawer our and you will see both tanks.

[K9AEG]

Same here. Replaced all non-LED's to Led's... Didn't do the Motion thing on outside light but did do the LED. Thanks for your input and help. Appreciate

[Wyatt]

Hey Denny, did you do the refrigerator? That made a HUGE difference in lighting up that dark compartment. That and the headlights made the most improvement...