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Old 03-14-2021, 07:35 PM   #1321
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That stereo head unit looks great! Navigation in the software?
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Old 03-14-2021, 07:46 PM   #1322
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Alright! External power supply installed. Drilling through the door was like butter. If you can drill through a cheap ice chest, you can drill through our utility doors. I went low and hinge side, had some flex spot with me if I didnt like the seal, but the 3/4 inch hole saw was just about right to seat this. The four screws snugged it up nicely. I added an inline fuse between the external mount and the + battery connector. Tested for power and the little air compressor I bought for tire inflation fire right up!
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Old 03-14-2021, 08:31 PM   #1323
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Originally Posted by bdub View Post
Alright! External power supply installed. Drilling through the door was like butter. If you can drill through a cheap ice chest, you can drill through our utility doors. I went low and hinge side, had some flex spot with me if I didnt like the seal, but the 3/4 inch hole saw was just about right to seat this. The four screws snugged it up nicely. I added an inline fuse between the external mount and the + battery connector. Tested for power and the little air compressor I bought for tire inflation fire right up!
Excellent. Is that a genetic 12v supply, or does it double as a solar connection point?
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Old 03-14-2021, 10:21 PM   #1324
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That stereo head unit looks great! Navigation in the software?
It was only a $300 radio, so no navigation. But it is Apple and Android ready. The CarPlay works great for navigation with full or split screen. Giant buttons, simple knob for volume at the lower center, which is great, as it was a stretch for my wife to reach on the left side.
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Old 03-14-2021, 10:26 PM   #1325
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Excellent. Is that a genetic 12v supply, or does it double as a solar connection point?
It will double as my solar connection point when I buy the suitcase.
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Old 03-14-2021, 10:27 PM   #1326
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It was only a $300 radio, so no navigation. But it is Apple and Android ready. The CarPlay works great for navigation with full or split screen. Giant buttons, simple knob for volume at the lower center, which is great, as it was a stretch for my wife to reach on the left side.
That's awesome! Gonna have to add that to the list. I think after the Lithium battery upgrade
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Old 03-14-2021, 10:42 PM   #1327
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Today’s projects...sorry, no pictures.

First was putting felt tape under the edges of the stove.

Next, I fixed a broken cabinet above the dinette (couch in my case )
I noticed after our trip last weekend that the forward upper corner had let go from the slide out wall. The face frame is missing the inner corner support that the rear has, that actually holds the cabinet to the wall.
I put some wood glue in the joint and screwed a piece of metal angle on the inside corner to wall. That should hold it forever!

I also added orange side markers above the rear wheels. Not as easy as I expected. I’ve easily replaced side markers on my previous RV’s, but not this one.
They are NOT flush mount. There is a ton of Dicor sealant holding the bulb holder in a hole in the wall. So much sealant was squirted in the hole, all over the excess wiring, making it a very difficult job. So much for replacing all of them with LED models. I spliced in my new wire and put the light back together with fresh Dicor.
Then I routed the new wiring and mounted the “mid” lights. I added them because at night it can be difficult to see the rear wheel, and with our ridiculous rear overhang on the 26M, we need to see it to know where the “pivot” point is.

Next up is converting the skinny cabinet next to the fridge to a pull out drawer like some others have done.
I’m also going to make some Delrin blocks this week to replace the metal top clamp on the bunk forward pivots. Mine makes soooo much noise!
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Old 03-14-2021, 11:39 PM   #1328
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Today’s projects...sorry, no pictures.

First was putting felt tape under the edges of the stove.

Next, I fixed a broken cabinet above the dinette (couch in my case )
I noticed after our trip last weekend that the forward upper corner had let go from the slide out wall. The face frame is missing the inner corner support that the rear has, that actually holds the cabinet to the wall.
I put some wood glue in the joint and screwed a piece of metal angle on the inside corner to wall. That should hold it forever!

I also added orange side markers above the rear wheels. Not as easy as I expected. I’ve easily replaced side markers on my previous RV’s, but not this one.
They are NOT flush mount. There is a ton of Dicor sealant holding the bulb holder in a hole in the wall. So much sealant was squirted in the hole, all over the excess wiring, making it a very difficult job. So much for replacing all of them with LED models. I spliced in my new wire and put the light back together with fresh Dicor.
Then I routed the new wiring and mounted the “mid” lights. I added them because at night it can be difficult to see the rear wheel, and with our ridiculous rear overhang on the 26M, we need to see it to know where the “pivot” point is.

Next up is converting the skinny cabinet next to the fridge to a pull out drawer like some others have done.
I’m also going to make some Delrin blocks this week to replace the metal top clamp on the bunk forward pivots. Mine makes soooo much noise!
That over head cabinet separation happened to me as well, it was the aft front corner. It happened way early on and so had it repaired under warranty (when I was getting the mini fridge replaced). Now I need to check the forward corner to see if I need to shore it up! That should probably be a recall item for safety since that is where the passengers sit.

I cant decide on whether or not to delete that little cabinet. We are definitely pulling the dinette out. But if I take the cabinet with it, the options for sofas increase dramatically. Is that too much of a mod?
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Old 03-15-2021, 08:52 AM   #1329
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Yes agree the cabinet corner problem should be a recall. Mine broke loose 1st 4 months so had it fix under warentee. Then, when I got it home and seen the loosey fix they did, I fixed it myself by adding gussets.
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Old 03-16-2021, 12:50 PM   #1330
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Congrats! What mattress company did you go with? So far we have gotten by with a gel foam topper cut down to the off-size of the stock mattress.
Hey, Bdub! Thank you. We ordered the "Montana Hybrid": https://wildernessrvmattress.com/col...tana-pillowtop

We need a super soft mattress, or should I say, I do...so I am hoping it'll work well. I do plan to put a gel topper on if needed, and a nice thick mattress cover. I'm a side sleeper so, the softer the better.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:26 PM   #1331
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Yes agree the cabinet corner problem should be a recall. Mine broke loose 1st 4 months so had it fix under warentee. Then, when I got it home and seen the loosey fix they did, I fixed it myself by adding gussets.
And I thought I was alone on this one. My wife loaded it with canned goods, and going over bumps it was like a hammer hitting the cabinet bottom, and so it pulled down from the ceiling—all the way across.

I looked up there and there were only a few brackets holding it up. So I lowered the table down, put a jack on it, raised it up into position, and added four more L brackets. I screwed them into the upper part of the cabinet as there’s metal there, using self tapping screws.

It happen only after our second outing. Might have had it fixed under warranty, but I assumed we caused the problem.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:41 PM   #1332
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That's awesome! Gonna have to add that to the list. I think after the Lithium battery upgrade
FYI--Just learned this. WFCO's web site now has a Lithium power center coming out soon. So I called them.Turns out, we don't need to replace ours as the OEM WFCO converter/charger WILL charge Lithium batteries right out of the box, but just not to 100%.

It's a three stage charger, and the Lithiums want a two stage (no float stage). The OEM puts out 13.6v while Lithium's want a 14.6 in Bulk charge mode. They said it will work as-is, but they recommend adding a plu-n-play unit that replace the OEM one.

They SAY it's a ten minute job, as it's just swapping out the board, (not the whole unit), but it's still a $235.00 dollar one as well.

So while Im adding my third Battle Born battery when the weather's more accommodating, I'll also be swapping out the charger in the WFCO unit. Here's link...
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:46 PM   #1333
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I haven't seen the show myself but the TV show "Moody's" on FOX seems to have an Intent in the new trailer for the show starting April 1st. Again not promoting the show. Never seen it.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:58 PM   #1334
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FYI--Just learned this. WFCO's web site now has a Lithium power center coming out soon. So I called them.Turns out, we don't need to replace ours as the OEM WFCO converter/charger WILL charge Lithium batteries right out of the box, but just not to 100%.

It's a three stage charger, and the Lithiums want a two stage (no float stage). The OEM puts out 13.6v while Lithium's want a 14.6 in Bulk charge mode. They said it will work as-is, but they recommend adding a plu-n-play unit that replace the OEM one.

They SAY it's a ten minute job, as it's just swapping out the board, (not the whole unit), but it's still a $235.00 dollar one as well.

So while Im adding my third Battle Born battery when the weather's more accommodating, I'll also be swapping out the charger in the WFCO unit. Here's link...
Good intel! I was wondering if that would need a swap out. Seems like the batts would ‘survive’ on the stock one then? Getting it to 100% charge would be best obviously.

Did I read it right that not all our outlets are supplied power from the inverter? I’m gonna need to get at least the bedroom outlets on inverter power for sure. Have you guys taken a stab at that? I dont want to run more cable/make a new outlet point.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:59 PM   #1335
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I haven't seen the show myself but the TV show "Moody's" on FOX seems to have an Intent in the new trailer for the show starting April 1st. Again not promoting the show. Never seen it.
Worth checking out! Thanks.
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Old 03-17-2021, 06:03 PM   #1336
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And I thought I was alone on this one. My wife loaded it with canned goods, and going over bumps it was like a hammer hitting the cabinet bottom, and so it pulled down from the ceiling—all the way across.

I looked up there and there were only a few brackets holding it up. So I lowered the table down, put a jack on it, raised it up into position, and added four more L brackets. I screwed them into the upper part of the cabinet as there’s metal there, using self tapping screws.

It happen only after our second outing. Might have had it fixed under warranty, but I assumed we caused the problem.
It’s funny that I quickly mention it, and it turns out we’ve all got the same crap!
Ours isn’t that heavily loaded either. Poor craftsmanship.
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Old 03-17-2021, 06:10 PM   #1337
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Good intel! I was wondering if that would need a swap out. Seems like the batts would ‘survive’ on the stock one then? Getting it to 100% charge would be best obviously.

Did I read it right that not all our outlets are supplied power from the inverter? I’m gonna need to get at least the bedroom outlets on inverter power for sure. Have you guys taken a stab at that? I dont want to run more cable/make a new outlet point.
Yes, the only outlets on the inverter are:
Fridge, and all TV’s.
Outdoor fridge is not. When I need it on inverter, I plug it in to the tv outlet.

I tapped into the outdoor tv outlet and ran Romex in the cabinets to the kitchen sink area, where I added another box to power the tv that I added over the door.

You’d have to track the wiring to the bedroom outlets and move them to the inverter. Not too difficult with a meter. Just be aware of the power you need so you don’t overpower the inverter
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Old 03-17-2021, 09:13 PM   #1338
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Yes, the only outlets on the inverter are:
Fridge, and all TV’s.
Outdoor fridge is not. When I need it on inverter, I plug it in to the tv outlet.

I tapped into the outdoor tv outlet and ran Romex in the cabinets to the kitchen sink area, where I added another box to power the tv that I added over the door.

You’d have to track the wiring to the bedroom outlets and move them to the inverter. Not too difficult with a meter. Just be aware of the power you need so you don’t overpower the inverter
Ok. Thanks! I’ll happily trade two of the TVs for other outlets to be inverter powered I think. Gonna have to do some tracing! Maybe I’ll try the 3d website as well.
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Old 03-17-2021, 09:41 PM   #1339
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Good intel! I was wondering if that would need a swap out. Seems like the batts would ‘survive’ on the stock one then? Getting it to 100% charge would be best obviously.

Did I read it right that not all our outlets are supplied power from the inverter? I’m gonna need to get at least the bedroom outlets on inverter power for sure. Have you guys taken a stab at that? I dont want to run more cable/make a new outlet point.
Yes, Lithium batteries will “work” on the existing WFCO unit, just not at 100% capacity. So you’re paying for ah you can’t really use.
My bigger question to them was, what does that do to the starter battery, when charging on shoreline power with the ignition key on. He said not to worry, as the bulk charges will shut off automatically after four hours.

As for the plugs. Yes, only the TV and refrigerator plug on the indoor kitchen are on the inverter. Not even the outdoor kitchen. To solve that, I simply add a small extension cord from the outdoor refer to the outdoor tv socket, with a three plug adapter and I’m good to go while on the inverter.

K9AEG wired a work around and has all of his fed together on inverter. Should be easy enough to do, but I have not tackled it yet.
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Old 03-17-2021, 09:56 PM   #1340
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Yes, Lithium batteries will “work” on the existing WFCO unit, just not at 100% capacity. So you’re paying for ah you can’t really use.
My bigger question to them was, what does that do to the starter battery, when charging on shoreline power with the ignition key on. He said not to worry, as the bulk charges will shut off automatically after four hours.

As for the plugs. Yes, only the TV and refrigerator plug on the indoor kitchen are on the inverter. Not even the outdoor kitchen. To solve that, I simply add a small extension cord from the outdoor refer to the outdoor tv socket, with a three plug adapter and I’m good to go while on the inverter.

K9AEG wired a work around and has all of his fed together on inverter. Should be easy enough to do, but I have not tackled it yet.
Thanks! An extension chord is definitely the easiest solution for sure. I’ll probably end up doing that until it drives me nuts!
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