For all Intents and purposes

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

That’s funny. I did the same thing. Too many times has stuff flown out and startled me while driving. But when the dog food came down and hit the wife, then the dog, it got moved up on my todo list...

I just did this a week ago, and these are still available...I screwed mine into the sides, with self tapping screws.

Also, the lock I bought to secure the solar (Renogy 200 watt suitcase), I bought on etrailer. Mounted it to the rear skid plate. Can’t even see it under there. But, it should keep honest people honest, if not, there’s insurance...

Thanks Wyatt for the info. Also the pic of the net from Amazon. I believe them are the same I used, only with them out of stock , for some reason, couldn't get Url of them to post.
From my picture it looks like I mounted the upside down. (crazy camera)
I like the lock, and for other kinds of losses, yes,there is insurance.

You mentioned the panels weight 40 lbs. I'm wondering if they have flexible ones that are in some kind of suitcase? Of course they have to have some weight to them or they would try an imitate a kite.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Thanks Wyatt for the info. Also the pic of the net from Amazon. I believe them are the same I used, only with them out of stock , for some reason, couldn't get Url of them to post.
From my picture it looks like I mounted the upside down. (crazy camera)
I like the lock, and for other kinds of losses, yes,there is insurance.

You mentioned the panels weight 40 lbs. I'm wondering if they have flexible ones that are in some kind of suitcase? Of course they have to have some weight to them or they would try an imitate a kite.

Actually, the panels I got were 33#. I’ve read that people don’t like the flexible panels, so I stayed away from those.
As of yesterday, the cargo nets were available on Amazon, at least the ones I used...

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Actually, the panels I got were 33#. I’ve read that people don’t like the flexible panels, so I stayed away from those.
As of yesterday, the cargo nets were available on Amazon, at least the ones I used...

Yep, actually a little weight is good during windy conditions such as here in Arizona.

[Wyatt]

Back to the water in the outdoor kitchen area. Nothing since the big storm a few weeks ago, so definitely not a leak.

So I added an additional layer of gasket in the large door. Just put it on top of the existing one, (after wiping it down with isopropyl alcohol), and now the door has a very tight seal.

In case you need, or want to do this, or bolster your aging seals without complete replacement, here’s what I used. It’s a perfect fit.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

It’s funny sometimes, forgetting changes that I’ve made that are just normal now. Like this. My stinky slinky goes inside the bumper. Like it always has in all of my RV’s!
Oh, wait. This one didn’t have a bumper. I added it!

OK, another question for you. I did what you said and adjusted the low beam LED headlights so that the LEDs were facing side to side and it was easy to see through the lens. But on the highbeams it’s like a myopic lens and you can’t see which way the LEDs are facing. Curious how you tackled that? I have an idea but I thought I’d check in and see what you thought and how you did it first. Thanks!

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

OK, another question for you. I did what you said and adjusted the low beam LED headlights so that the LEDs were facing side to side and it was easy to see through the lens. But on the highbeams it’s like a myopic lens and you can’t see which way the LEDs are facing. Curious how you tackled that? I have an idea but I thought I’d check in and see what you thought and how you did it first. Thanks!

Now it gets interesting. As I posted in my instructions, on my Intent the lows are on top with the weird thing blocking the bulb. My high beams are the lower lenses in which the halogen bulb is visible. WTH? The low beams are also a low voltage daytime running light.

My headlights suck. Yours suck. It doesn’t sound like it matters which way they go! 😊

Can some of you other guys please share how your INTENT came from the factory to get a consensus?


-Robb

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Now it gets interesting. As I posted in my instructions, on my Intent the lows are on top with the weird thing blocking the bulb. My high beams are the lower lenses in which the halogen bulb is visible. WTH? The low beams are also a low voltage daytime running light.

My headlights suck. Yours suck. It doesn’t sound like it matters which way they go! 😊

Can some of you other guys please share how your INTENT came from the factory to get a consensus?


-Robb

I’m going to tackle the adjustment of the LED’s in the upper position tomorrow, hopefully.
I went by what I thought you said, that the upper beams were high, maybe I’m wrong. In any case, the upper lens’ have a different lens, that’s apparently designed to focus the light differently than the lower light. That’s why you can’t actually “see” the bulb in the fixture behind the lens. It’s very as I said, myopic, like a very thick pair of reading glasses.

I’m going to mark the 12 o’clock position on the upper bulbs socket, then screw it into the lower bulb socket so I can see which way the LED’s are directing the light. If the mark stays at the 12 o’lock position, I’m good. I’ll adjust them like I did with the lower ones, Then, put them back in the upper position. Make sense?

[YGoHom]

Makes sense. But, no one else has confirmed if the low beam should be the myopic lens or the clear lens. My low beam is the myopic lens on top, and yours is the clear on the bottom. One of us has the wire connections switched from the factory.
I just saw a pic of an INTENT with myopic lens lit up with running lights, same as mine. ??

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Makes sense. But, no one else has confirmed if the low beam should be the myopic lens or the clear lens. My low beam is the myopic lens on top, and yours is the clear on the bottom. One of us has the wire connections switched from the factory.
I just saw a pic of an INTENT with myopic lens lit up with running lights, same as mine. ??

Just checked my headlight arrangement. My low beams are the uppers in the myopic lenses. Lowers are the high beams.

hope this helps.

[SCCAFIRE]

I don't know how many of you know but I live in my Intent full time. I also live in the Dallas Metroplex area. Last week as you all know we had snowmageddon here. 5 days of single digit temps with Windchill factor dropping temps to negative teens. Both holding tanks froze. There wasn't much in them but none the less both froze. Needed to put heating pads on the valves to get them open. Our heated water hose froze due to rolling blackouts. RV park water spigot froze open. After we thawed out and was able to turn water back on and such we had a water leak in the flush valve for the toilet and cold water side of bathroom sink. Due to the tanks being frozen and no water we decided to go to a hotel for the week. We did check on the RV every day. Started the generator when it was 19 degrees. Ran fine. Also started the engine, also ran fine. No issues until we could turn the water back on.

Lessons learned if going to go thru that type of hard freeze undo city water supply, and drain all water lines using low point drains including the hot water.

Now on to better news.

Our new coach arrived at the dealership today. Our sales rep snapped some pictures before they took it to wash and clean it. They will be doing their PDI and will be ready for us to pick up on Friday.

Note the slides are in and the coach is not set up at all. We will have more pictures come this weekend.

[YGoHom]

I’m sorry. That sucks.

And...

WOW!!!! That rocks!!!!

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Just checked my headlight arrangement. My low beams are the uppers in the myopic lenses. Lowers are the high beams.

hope this helps.

It does thanks. I don’t think my lights are mixed up I think it’s me that’s mixed up I’m gonna go out and check tomorrow.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by SCCAFIRE

I don't know how many of you know but I live in my Intent full time. I also live in the Dallas Metroplex area. Last week as you all know we had snowmageddon here. 5 days of single digit temps with Windchill factor dropping temps to negative teens. Both holding tanks froze. There wasn't much in them but none the less both froze. Needed to put heating pads on the valves to get them open. Our heated water hose froze due to rolling blackouts. RV park water spigot froze open. After we thawed out and was able to turn water back on and such we had a water leak in the flush valve for the toilet and cold water side of bathroom sink. Due to the tanks being frozen and no water we decided to go to a hotel for the week. We did check on the RV every day. Started the generator when it was 19 degrees. Ran fine. Also started the engine, also ran fine. No issues until we could turn the water back on.

Lessons learned if going to go thru that type of hard freeze undo city water supply, and drain all water lines using low point drains including the hot water.

Now on to better news.

Our new coach arrived at the dealership today. Our sales rep snapped some pictures before they took it to wash and clean it. They will be doing their PDI and will be ready for us to pick up on Friday.

Note the slides are in and the coach is not set up at all. We will have more pictures come this weekend.

Sweet! Love the counter space, opposing slide outs that place will be huge inside. Can’t wait to see more pix when you get it. And make sure EVERYTHING works before you drive away...but you knew that. Q. Does it have heated tanks?

[bdub]

Originally Posted by SCCAFIRE

I don't know how many of you know but I live in my Intent full time. I also live in the Dallas Metroplex area. Last week as you all know we had snowmageddon here. 5 days of single digit temps with Windchill factor dropping temps to negative teens. Both holding tanks froze. There wasn't much in them but none the less both froze. Needed to put heating pads on the valves to get them open. Our heated water hose froze due to rolling blackouts. RV park water spigot froze open. After we thawed out and was able to turn water back on and such we had a water leak in the flush valve for the toilet and cold water side of bathroom sink. Due to the tanks being frozen and no water we decided to go to a hotel for the week. We did check on the RV every day. Started the generator when it was 19 degrees. Ran fine. Also started the engine, also ran fine. No issues until we could turn the water back on.

Lessons learned if going to go thru that type of hard freeze undo city water supply, and drain all water lines using low point drains including the hot water.

Now on to better news.

Our new coach arrived at the dealership today. Our sales rep snapped some pictures before they took it to wash and clean it. They will be doing their PDI and will be ready for us to pick up on Friday.

Note the slides are in and the coach is not set up at all. We will have more pictures come this weekend.

That's looks amazing! Congrats! Glad you made it mostly intact after that nasty weather.

I'll be going to visit the Falcon tomorrow and will check on the headlight situation.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Those 3 are the adjusters. 9/32 socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet works best. Crawl under and prop yourself on one elbow and reach up with the ratchet.
The headlights are on top, the brights are the lower ones.

A big piece of cardboard really helps to slide in and out quickly as you make adjustments. I used a small flashlight standing upright, sitting on the bottom corner of the fiberglass body. Lots of light and pretty easy to reach. Remember that rubber flap by the battery? It’s a pain in the ass here too. Slide your arm under it for the best access. I couldn’t reach above and over it.

Here’s the big tip...Tightening a screw will pull the headlight towards the screw head. Loosening will push the light away. For example, say the passenger side is aimed too high (like mine) you want to tighten the lower screw. That will pull the fixture away from the body, and the light will aim lower to the ground. A few turns goes a long way.

The Allen key is on the aftermarket LED bulbs that we have, which is a separate thing. The LED chips should be side to side, but the lamp housing puts them about 20 degrees off. Doesn’t matter for the halogen bulbs.

Also, for anyone looking at that picture thinking it looks different...it’s because of the aftermarket LED bulbs. That’s the heat sink.

Ok, took all of your advice. I misread your post. The high beams are the lower ones where one can see the bulb. The pattern, in the low beam lens, has an obstruction in the lower area, which I made a red half circle around so you can see what I’m saying.

If the LED’s are facing top and bottom in the fixture, rather than side to side as you suggested, one can see how the lower led chips would be worthless in term on direct illumination.

So I adjusted the high beams first, so the LEDS are side to side, because I could see what I’m doing (see photo in yellow where the LED’s are facing, and the red thing that’s designed to create that dome dark spot in the road (probably another cars eyes or rear view mirror).

Then, I put the low beam socket, into the high beam lens, and I could see the LED’s were again not facing side to side. So I fixed that, with the small Allen wrench, and made a mark on the top of the socket, to see if it lined up at the top of the low beam socket when plugged back in, to make sure they were oriented the same, and they were.

Now, I’ll have to wait for a test drive in the dark. Hopefully, the pattern will be better now. They’re still way brighter than the stock halogen, which I could barely even tell if they were on or not.

Why they don’t make a replacement led bulb with LED’s in a circle, rather than side to side, I have not idea...seems like that would replicate the OEM Halogens better?

Now, the last photo is on the socket mount itself, which seems to be missing a fourth adjustment screw. Now it’s the same of both sides, but the missing (or just absent) adjustment screw is the same on both sockets, which means that on the passenger side it’s the lower inside one that can’t be adjusted, and on the driver side, it’s the outer lower one without a screw. Hmm...

[YGoHom]

I’m not sure if I’m understanding correctly, but there should only be 3 adjustment screws, not 4. A fourth would make it very difficult to adjust. Think of a table with 3 legs vs. 4. The one with 3 will never wobble. On the headlight adjustment, a perfect scenario would be top and bottom to adjust up and down, and then the 3rd is for side to side.

[bdub]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Makes sense. But, no one else has confirmed if the low beam should be the myopic lens or the clear lens. My low beam is the myopic lens on top, and yours is the clear on the bottom. One of us has the wire connections switched from the factory.
I just saw a pic of an INTENT with myopic lens lit up with running lights, same as mine. ??

My headlights are the same as yours...just checked today.

[YGoHom]

Today’s welding project was a new light bar, or bull bar. I’ll put the new KC Gravity fog lights on tomorrow. No, it won’t provide any crash protection. Purely for looks and to mount the fog lights.
I’m really happy with choosing this particular one. I think it really follows the lines of the headlight panels and stripes.

Also, this was another experience that proves it pays to shop around. Amazon and eBay vary so much.
Amazon starts at $500. eBay was as low as $150 for black, brand new. I paid $200 to get it in silver and to fit a Ford F-150 truck. The brackets looked like I could use them with a little modification, vs. the Chevy or Tundra mounts that just wouldn’t work at all.


ARIES 2163000 AdvantEDGE Black Aluminum Truck Bull Bar, Select Ford F-150 , 5-1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019O6VRR0...4XKCDHM99ZYFP7

[bdub]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Today’s welding project was a new light bar, or bull bar. I’ll put the new KC Gravity fog lights on tomorrow. No, it won’t provide any crash protection. Purely for looks and to mount the fog lights.
I’m really happy with choosing this particular one. I think it really follows the lines of the headlight panels and stripes.

Also, this was another experience that proves it pays to shop around. Amazon and eBay vary so much.
Amazon starts at $500. eBay was as low as $150 for black, brand new. I paid $200 to get it in silver and to fit a Ford F-150 truck. The brackets looked like I could use them with a little modification, vs. the Chevy or Tundra mounts that just wouldn’t work at all.


ARIES 2163000 AdvantEDGE Black Aluminum Truck Bull Bar, Select Ford F-150 , 5-1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019O6VRR0...4XKCDHM99ZYFP7

This is just next level! Wow!

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Why they don’t make a replacement led bulb with LED’s in a circle, rather than side to side, I have not idea...seems like that would replicate the OEM Halogens better?

In my experience, these are the first I’ve seen that only projects a single LED per side. There are many that have tiny chips on all 4 sides, or as many sides as it may have. The light from a standard halogen bulb fills the reflector and the light is projected as it was designed to do. An LED replacement only shoots light straight so it doesn’t fill the reflector the same way. It will be bright, but typically won’t project properly as the halogen will. That’s why you get blinded by so many old cars with LED replacements that shoot high in the sky.

In our case, I don’t care, we need to see the damn road! 🙂