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Old 05-26-2020, 09:08 PM   #721
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Just plug this into the tv audio out port, and it will transmit the TV's signal to Pioneer head unit, that will output thru the speakers. Simple.
thanks that will work find with the blue tooth soundbar I have now. Can use ether or both...
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:19 AM   #722
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Hi Robb,

Not sure which one you bought, but the RV specific one I bought was plug and play. All I had to do was put some putty tape under the top seat to make sure it didn’t leak.
I got a residential one. Looks like I have everything to do it this weekend. New loveseat going in also. Full power, fully adjustable!
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:52 AM   #723
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thanks that will work find with the blue tooth soundbar I have now. Can use ether or both...
That unit will transmit to any Bluetooth device, but only one at a time.
For example, if you were to do as I do, and plug it into the TV, and set it to transmit (“T” not “R”), the Pioneer head unit will pick it up.

I’d expect that your sound bar could pick it up as well. But not both simultaneously. You’d have to choose one or the other—output the sound to either the Sound bar, or the head unit speakers.
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Old 05-28-2020, 09:13 PM   #724
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Channel Master Splitter

I’m mystified. I added a Channel Master POWERED splitter to the replace the static cheap one used for the three TV’s.
But testing it out, I actually got a better signal with it NOT powered. It’s an improvement as a splitter, but the powered option actually hindered the number of channels AND the signal strength. 73 channels at 100% not powered, vs. 67 at 75% powered...(you can see in the background when it’s plugged into the same socket as the tv).

These photo show the number of channels found, and the strength when powered and not powered.
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Old 05-28-2020, 09:31 PM   #725
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I’m mystified. I added a Channel Master POWERED splitter to the replace the static cheap one used for the three TV’s.
But testing it out, I actually got a better signal with it NOT powered. It’s an improvement as a splitter, but the powered option actually hindered the number of channels AND the signal strength. 73 channels at 100% not powered, vs. 67 at 75% powered...(you can see in the background when it’s plugged into the same socket as the tv).

These photo show the number of channels found, and the strength when powered and not powered.
Yes Wyatt, I believe your results. But it doesn't make sense electronic's wise. I would suggest you check your ports for proper configuration. In the mean time, I will shut off my power and compare results.
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Old 05-28-2020, 10:24 PM   #726
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Yes Wyatt, I believe your results. But it doesn't make sense electronic's wise. I would suggest you check your ports for proper configuration. In the mean time, I will shut off my power and compare results.
I wired the ports as you called them correctly. What I’m not sure of is is there another splitter somewhere I can’t see, that it should go in before this one.

I found the one you had said was In the water closet—funny, because that’s also an old world term for the bathroom. Once I knew that you’re calling what I call the “Pump Station”, I knew where to look.

In mine, it was actually was more easily accessed by removing the right white side panel in the outdoor kitchen (I know our two productions are slightly different). Well, not easily, as removing the screws that hold that panel on was a pain, as two of them are down below the counter and sink—almost inaccessible-almost.

I fiddled with everything, and it took quite some time, as I had to keep rescanning the channels every time I changed a connection.
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Old 05-28-2020, 11:27 PM   #727
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Interesting and confusing. I’m assuming that you’re still using the tiny button (green light) to power the antenna. What does this splitter provide? If the signal is received by the powered antenna, how does this enhance that signal? Sorry, I’m not the electrical wizard like you guys
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:17 AM   #728
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Interesting and confusing. I’m assuming that you’re still using the tiny button (green light) to power the antenna. What does this splitter provide? If the signal is received by the powered antenna, how does this enhance that signal? Sorry, I’m not the electrical wizard like you guys
Yes. The original power antenna booster is still intact and operative. And that may be wherein lies the issue...

The idea is that anytime a signal is "split" between three tv's, there will be signal denigration. There's only so much signal strength there and the more you split it, the less that's remaining.

Imagine if you were to give your friend half of a dollar that you have. The'd have 50% of the pie. Now you decide to give your friend 33 cents instead, and another friend 33 cents. You're left with 1/3rd-- roughly. That's how essentially an antenna signal is split--and lost.

So a passive splitter denigrates the signal even further--typically 5db. However, a powered splitter--where the signal comes in from the Omni antenna, and is split between the three tv's, can actually boost the signal 5db (per antenna)--that's a big swing, though I know the numbers don't look big, but decibels are like earthquakes. They're not linear.

My theory is that adding a powered booster may actually add to denigrate the original powered signal, in a way that honestly, I do not know.

We'll see what Denny comes up with. Stay tuned...
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Old 05-29-2020, 06:56 AM   #729
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I wired the ports as you called them correctly. What I’m not sure of is is there another splitter somewhere I can’t see, that it should go in before this one.

I found the one you had said was In the water closet—funny, because that’s also an old world term for the bathroom. Once I knew that you’re calling what I call the “Pump Station”, I knew where to look.

In mine, it was actually was more easily accessed by removing the right white side panel in the outdoor kitchen (I know our two productions are slightly different). Well, not easily, as removing the screws that hold that panel on was a pain, as two of them are down below the counter and sink—almost inaccessible-almost.

I fiddled with everything, and it took quite some time, as I had to keep rescanning the channels every time I changed a connection.


I just went outside and checked my color-code. The TV's are colors Brown, Black and Yellow... or something close to that.

Your pic shows TV cables are connected the the proper ports. Your unused port #4 output, is even the same as mine.

By the looks of it, your powering the port closest to the light, which is correct. And the cable from the TV switch in bedroom is connected to the Input of the Amplified Splitter.

It should work. Note: when scanning, make sure you get similar results with all three TV's... I know this presents even a bigger pain in the butt, but if the factory mislabeled those cables, that would then show up.

Also with so many channels available there in your location, I wonder how many you could receive without the little green bedroom switch off. If you get a bunch with it off, that would say there is leakage in the cable, which isn't serious but could give false tests.

also... if you have the same TV's as I do, you know the digital are scanned 1st, and the second have is the analogue. So you can cut short your scan time by EXIT after the progress bar gets past half.

As for the names... I believe I learned the "Water Closet" from the salesman. That's what he called that area.

The outside kitchen I call the Tailgate. That's probably a Redneck Wisconsin name heard frequently at the Green Bay Packer parking lot. They Tailgate there before the games having a small kitchen setup on their tailgate..
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Old 05-29-2020, 02:39 PM   #730
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YGOHOME. I went back as you said to find your early post about taking apart the middle console. Wow. I didn’t get on this board until around 36 pages in!
I started RE-reading all of the old threads. We’ve come a long way.

One thing that stood out to me, was your console is a two piece unit. Mine is a single piece where only a small top cap come off over the radio. I’ll post pictures when I put in the new radio.
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Old 05-29-2020, 02:48 PM   #731
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I wired the ports as you called them correctly. What I’m not sure of is is there another splitter somewhere I can’t see, that it should go in before this one.

I found the one you had said was In the water closet—funny, because that’s also an old world term for the bathroom. Once I knew that you’re calling what I call the “Pump Station”, I knew where to look.

In mine, it was actually was more easily accessed by removing the right white side panel in the outdoor kitchen (I know our two productions are slightly different). Well, not easily, as removing the screws that hold that panel on was a pain, as two of them are down below the counter and sink—almost inaccessible-almost.

I fiddled with everything, and it took quite some time, as I had to keep rescanning the channels every time I changed a connection.
As u can see, my splitter configuration looks identical to yours.... cables and all.

Btw when I disconnect power from splitter, I loose all my channels. Am thinking if u don't, there's maybe a cable incorrectly marked. Above tests I suggested may confirm that.
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Old 05-29-2020, 02:57 PM   #732
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Safety First, Safety Always

Added a little more visibility by changing the front side clearance lights out for more robust ones that also include directional turn lights.
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:08 PM   #733
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Added a little more visibility by changing the front side clearance lights out for more robust ones that also include directional turn lights.
I’ve been wanting to do this on the rear corners, as well as adding an orange over the rear wheel to help visibility in the mirrors.
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:09 PM   #734
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Another use for these fine latches

When in storage, these fine latches can be used to keep frig doors ajar. Thanks again.
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Old 05-29-2020, 04:12 PM   #735
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I’ve been wanting to do this on the rear corners, as well as adding an orange over the rear wheel to help visibility in the mirrors.
I'm all eyes and ears. The rear is a bit more difficult as the clearance light are boxed in by the moldings. Haven't found clearance/directional lights that small.
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Old 05-31-2020, 08:49 PM   #736
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Looking to soundproof,heat proof the dog box,what did you guys use if you done yours?
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Old 05-31-2020, 09:50 PM   #737
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Looking to soundproof,heat proof the dog box,what did you guys use if you done yours?
Will let you know as soon as I figure out how to open mine.
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:05 PM   #738
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Dog House Insulation

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Looking to soundproof,heat proof the dog box,what did you guys use if you done yours?
Haven’t opened up the cover yet, and I won’t until I have some deadening material. I calculate once open it, it’ll never again be as quite as it is now.

But when I do, I’ll look to these two, or perhaps a combination of both.
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:18 PM   #739
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It opens very easily with the large hex key that came in the bag. Find the hole in the carpet, I think near the center, just up off the floor. Just drag your fingers along the carpet looking for the cut out. It’s not very noticeable. Put the hex key in and turn it about a 1/4 turn. It will then lift up from the rear and the pull rearward and out.
It’s easy and will seal nicely when put back properly.

Someone already posted pictures in this thread with added sound deadening. Page 15, post #300. You can see the latch.
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:27 PM   #740
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It opens very easily with the large hex key that came in the bag. Find the hole in the carpet, I think near the center, just up off the floor. Just drag your fingers along the carpet looking for the cut out. It’s not very noticeable. Put the hex key in and turn it about a 1/4 turn. It will then lift up from the rear and the pull rearward and out.
It’s easy and will seal nicely when put back properly.

Someone already posted pictures in this thread with added sound deadening. Page 15, post #300. You can see the latch.
Lift up from the edge closest to the dash, or the edge with the key hole?

The key was missing from my motorhome. No owners kit provided at all. Had to print all of the manuals from the Winnebago website.
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