Fair asking price for a 06 Itasca Sunova 29R

[ccit1999]

Hi everyone,
Need some of this groups vast knowledge on a 2006 Itasca Sunova

This particular model is the 29R its on the Ford Chassis and it has 2 slides. 1) main room slide and 1) bedroom slide out (both on the drivers side)

Ive went thru and ran the rig, took it on a 15 mile freeway test drive, brought the slides in and out and checked the rubber seals. The levelers worked great (I ran them on auto level a few times each while doing the all retract and starting over. didnt find any leaks or operational issues. (granted it was as the dealership)
Rant the Generator and put the heating and AC thru its paces for 20 minutes or so. The only I haven't done was hook up to the water and test the city water hookups and then run the water pumps or water heaters or test the gas stove/oven.
this model has the power awning which worked when I put it out. (I think the rig was bought with great intentions, but just never got used.) the interior is almost like new. the front seats a all cloth and don't show any sun fade and the couch matches the front seats. It looks like its never been sat on, cause the springs and material is super stiff. The dinet looks good, its got the fold down front seat back (I think its so the passenger can recline the seat and stuff)
I did notice that someone removed the front window shade cover tie backs and also the sun visors that mount on the ceiling. working my way back someones removed the smoke detectors and wall clock that I think mounts above the main door. Bathroom and showers look good (Haven't check the faucets or toilet tho) master bed room looks good, has the original tv back there and a upgraded memory foam mattress cover. Theres a single engine for the rear slide which I was able to check out via under the bed in the storage compartment. all the lights worked as they should as well as the 2 fantastic fans.
Now onto the exterior:
some of the outer storage compartment doors need to be adjusted, and some of the hydraulic arms need to be replaced (nothing to big :-)) The exterior stickers are starting to curl up on the edges (I think I can trim it down) theres some sun fading on the sides and stuff (hopefully nothing a good detail can't buff out) the slide out covers are ripping on the front ends (probably from just being extended for the past few months at the dealership) I did notice some rust on the bottom of the hot water heater metal cover and stuff. (not a lot, but still noticeable) tires look good, the dates look like they are 6 years old, but don't show any cracking and stuff
When I climbed up on the roof I noticed that its got 2 100 watt solar panels and the seals looked good.
Sadly the dealership doesn't have any of the books for the unit. I was told that winnebago has on there website the downloadable books.

Overall the rig runs great and looks good minus the sun fading and slightly curled stickers such...

I went on NADA and pulled up the cost, and without putting the mileage it comes out at 36,050.00 for average retail and when I add the 17,000 miles it bumps it up 22% which puts it at 43,550.00
They want 43,700.00 out the door. which is 39900 plus tax and registration and smog and stuff. I was thinking about offering 40,000.00 out the door which puts it at 36900.00?? Whats your thoughts on this? now that I listed all these things maybe I should offer 38K out the door

Paul & Kim :-)

[Rich488]

I've only bought from private owner so far but I certainly would not agree to thier asking price right off the bat.
I'm no expert but it seems you me that they price stuff high in case you want to trade in something. They can offer you what you think is a great price for your rig when in actuality they would take way less than their asking if you have no trade in. Also with this theory they can always come down but if they get ahold of an unsophisticated buyer they can't go up in price.
I just wonder about the validity of NADA book values in general. Where are they getting their info on sale prices?
I see a lot of private ads that say the book is $xxxxxx but they are no doubt adding in every single thing on the list such as electric steps, micro etc. and other stock items then they ask more than high retail.
A close look at the book clearly says only add things that were options not everything possible.
This is the time to start buying cuz most folks buy in spring on impulse. Hand them your phone number and tell them to call you if they want you low offer.
RV sales guys are a tough bunch so good luck and let us know.

[birddog2you]

A fair price is one that the seller and buyer agree on. That could and will be lower than any asking price. As far as NADA ��������. The only reason the salesman brought that out is to convince you the price is fair. My .02 cents is 30 percent off new price and then minus 5 percent for each year of age. Good luck.

[lonfu]

First some thoughts. If you bought an $80k rv would you keep service records? duh.... Dealers throw these things away to keep buyers from suing over known problems. So, they exist or existed. If they are missing then you can only guess what has been done. What is any 10 year old vehicle worth? the question is when was it last serviced? belts hoses brakes tune up ac bearing seals ?????? How long do you think a 10 year old radiator will last? Do you think a radiator hose won't rot after 10 years on a low mileage vehicle? NADA prices mean nothing, they are set my the dealers association. Only you can decide how much you like it and answer the question "do you want to hassle with a 10 year old vehicle"? S... breaks.....

[Floridakamper]

NADA Low Retail is $30K. Wholesale trade-in is roughly 20% less than NADA low retail, so about $24K and if they took it on trade they almost certainly gave less. So figure out what you think their cost to retail it is, pay commissions, keep the lights on at the dealership and a fair profit. If it was me, I think $35k is more than fair. If they did not take it on trade but bought it at auction, another grand or two. Ask them to show you what wholesale retail is. It doesn't hurt to ask. Some banks or credit unions can give you that number.

[hohokam]

Dealers' markups on consignments average about $4,000, so I would start negotiations a little lower but you may be on the money.

[LarryH1481]

The 6-yr old tires should be replaced...this is the time for negotiating. Either all new name brand tires at N/C or at dealer cost.

The coach and chassis batteries, if original, should be replaced.

Check sway bars (front & rear) for loose/missing mounting bolts and aged rubber bushings. Upgrade with Poly Bushings. This is common problem with Ford F-53 chassis.

The water system is critical. Fill up fresh water tank/water heater. Run water thru kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower and toilet, with RV water pump and city water pressure. Check for leaks.

The sales person expects to play the pricing game. You should go thru 3-4 offer/counter-offers, to get a lower price.

To me, the new tires are a must! Do not put any money down, until you complete the full PDI/walkthrough. You will want Roadside Assistance Insurance, try to avoid Extended Warranties (they are also marked up (high) and negotiable with dealer.) Good Luck!

P.S.

Went thru this 2+ years ago. Negotiated new tires with deal. After purchase, kitchen sink leaked (tightened connections); shower valve assembly cracked/leaked (replaced); engine coolant tank cracked/leaked (replaced); basement door struts binding (replaced 6 with lower pressure). Minor problems only, lubricated steps, slide out seals/gears, tightened screws everywhere, changed front heavy tube TV with HD Flat Panel TV (pulling overhead cabinet loose.) Just completed 1,700 mi trip to Oregon/Washington with no fails.

[Baggerman]

I recently bought my 2015 vista from a dealer. They had it on the net for 80K and "on sale" for 70K. I showed them where I could buy similar rigs for about 57K (this included flying to another state, driving it home, etc, etc) I was concerned with getting to another state and finding something wrong with the rig or it not being as described so I offered them 58,500 with a full PDI to be done. They came back with a counter offer but I stuck to my price and told them thanks for their time, they accepted the 58,500. There is always wiggle room in the asking price.

[ccit1999]

Rich,
I would prefer to buy from a private party, they usually keep the RV tip top and pretty clean. Plus they know all the "quirks" of the vehicle and can give you little tips that helped them while owning it.

NADA & KBB are both pretty much owned by the banks..its truly hard to tell whats the best price.

Thank you for taking the time to respond...
Ill fill you in on the rest of the story

[ccit1999]

Hey guys,

wow!! I didn't expect so many responses. I am new to this whole forum concept so please bare with a Retired Marine as we continue to learn this system. I think I responded to a couple via "Thanks" and now I hope I am responding to everyone.

Bird dog, I like your mathematics.. I think that your ideal is pretty fair and its also pretty close to what we were thinking of with our opening offer.

LonFu, you are absolutely right, everything does break. I had a oil cooler return line blow out on my Airstream, and no one makes that specific style anymore. I had to find a company that specializes in offload racing lines to make me one, needless to say I replaced both. Sitting does more damage than operating my friend.

FloridaKamper, I like your style and think that we are going to start at 28K and go up to 35K then if they don't like it, I still got my Freda to get us by...

HohoKam, Your probably right, but out here, everyone is trying to make $$$ or save $$$ its finding a good middle ground, (which I hope to do)

LarryH, I am finally realizing how important the dates on tires are!!! Ive been doing some research and wasn't fully aware how bad tires degrade over time, and how weak the sidewalls become. Im going to go up and recheck all the dates on the tires and if there over 5 years, then I going to work a deal for new shoes all around. I already told the sales man that we need to hook up the rig to shore power and water and then run everything, before we start the bidding process... Just so that they can get cracking on ordering parts

Baggerman, WOW!! you got a steal of deal on the Vista!! Hows the craftsmanship on those new rigs? Im curious because too me some of the tad older ones seem a lil better built...

Now with all this said and done, I realize I have more homework to do, via the internet and then on monday I will start my bidding process.

thanks again for everyones time and input.. I will definitely keep you all in the loop

[lonfu]

It is good to know like in any squad of guys, that we all have a different opinion, but that doesn't mean we all can't move in the same direction to accomplish the mission. (support)


The real question is, how long are you going to keep it? If you are going to keep it for just a couple of years, then negotiate as low a price as possible because the resale price will only go down!


On the other hand, if you really like the unit and will keep it for 10 years, then the price is really a non-issue. When I bought my class a, I was looking for a specific thing to meet my needs. The only way I could get it was to buy new and make my own $5k changes to meet my needs.


So, If you like it, and it is exactly what you want, then s.... or get off the pot!

[ccit1999]

LONFU, Support is just as vital as the man on the front line. Gotta keep the BBB's going (Beans, Bullets & Bad guys)
I like your way of thinking.. When I bought my Airstream I knew that I would have it for at least 2-3 years (had to see how the family would take to the whole RV camping concept)
Now if I had known how instrumental a slide and auto levelers are I probably wouldn't have bought the rig. Now that we know that everyone likes camping in the RV and how much simpler life is with 6 campers in a rig with a 30 inch slide, thus is the time to make the move sir. Soon with all that being said, I am thinking that with 2 kids graduated 1 from college & 1 from high school (going to college now) and 2 more coming up the shoot This New to us Rig should fit the bill for at least 5-10 years if not longer.

Today I made an offer of 30,500.00 out the door (which here in California is basically 28,500 plus tax and tags and smog)
Go big or go home!!!

[lonfu]

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you! Gota watch out, full timing will be a lure that is hard to resist with a rig like that! I do a lot of boondocking so a 26 foot rig with no slid outs is a better choice for wife and I. when I mention going bigger, wife reminds me about cleaning a longer rig. I really hate waxing!


When I bought mine I was living in Norcal. Ended up getting the best deal by buying from Lichtsinn rv in forest city iowa. Flew family out to pick it up. Saved about $15k from what the dealers in Cali were asking for the same unit. When I ordered it the factory built it for me, 7 miles on the clock. That was 1998, I still have the same rig with 130k miles on it now. It is my 4th moho.

[Yellowboat]

I traded mine in for 30K. But that doesn't mean very much when making a deal with a dealer. They can adjust the discount on the new vehicle to offer more for a trade.

The bottom line on a new purchase is the amount offered for trade and the discount negotiated on the new vehicle.

Safe travels. JD

[ccit1999]

Evening Everyone,
Update for my offer on the Sunova... Well the manager told my sales guy that if I want to play the game to choose another unit!!!!
Then he came back with a huge list of add ons on the NADA Listing bringing up the Low Retail up 40,843.43 & the High Retail 49,251.00

I then countered with pictures from the 2006 Itasca Brochure that shows what was standard and what was an actual option. hahaha. Then I resent my NADA listing with what was an actual upgrade like solar panels and air brake and satellite system....

we will see what tomorrow brings

[vsheetz]

I would much rather buy from a private seller. Typically service records, a good idea of how the coach has been used and cared for, and a better money deal can all be had. IMHO.

[birddog2you]

I would have walked away. Way better units out there. It cost him every day it sits there. What "game" is he playing?

[awol50]

Don't take a dealers word on anything. They tell you what they want you to hear.
Ask them what they think a fair gross margin should be on that rig. Then ask to see the original paperwork either at auction or from trade. Then work from there.

[divein]

Wish I had seen these posts earlier, as I spent several months earlier this year looking for the same RV and finally bought one in April. We just got back from third trip in it, one of which was 11 weeks and 8200 miles cross-country from South Florida to Washington State. Did you end up finding one yet?

[Dave11]

I guess my post will be the counterpoint to most others. I looked up the nada on this unit, with no options and no mileage adjustment the average retail is $35,050. Personally, I would not count any options values on a 2006 but I would at least consider mileage. Lower mileage is clearly more desireable at least to a point, maybe not as much as nada puts it at but a couple thousand would be reasonable. So that puts average retail in the high thirties $. Why would a dealer sell a reasonably popular unit way below average retail in a healthy market unless it was a distressed unit? Your offer is quite a bit below low retail as well.

I have bought two RVs and got close to low retail on both, which takes some patience. Most units near me in FL are priced well over average retail, in some cases 20% or more!

If you can agree on price making it subject to a professional inspection is never a bad idea. Good luck.