Ellipse/Tour poor headlights

bertman · 03-10-2015, 09:20 PM

Drove my 2012 Ellipse for the first time at night. Gee, do the headlights suck! At times, I could not see the road in front of me. Looking at them, they seem bright, but not sufficient. Anybody have input on these lights? What about aiming? I don't see how to do any adjustment to the alignment. Anybody replace headlights with something better? Sure could use a set of HID or flamethrowers!

John Hilley · 03-10-2015, 10:09 PM

Alignment would be the first thing to try.

FIRE UP · 03-10-2015, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bertman

Drove my 2012 Ellipse for the first time at night. Gee, do the headlights suck! At times, I could not see the road in front of me. Looking at them, they seem bright, but not sufficient. Anybody have input on these lights? What about aiming? I don't see how to do any adjustment to the alignment. Anybody replace headlights with something better? Sure could use a set of HID or flamethrowers!

bertman,
Headlight brightness has been a topic on quite a few RV forums. You're not alone here. One of the main problems in the past has been a bit less than full voltage received by the actual bulb. You see, sometimes the wiring is either too long and/or, it's a tad too small. Yeah, I know, you'd think the engineers at the factory would have all this stuff down but, in some cases, no so.

Some of the boys have wired in relays with much larger wire directly to the headlights and, using the original wire as a trigger wire for the relay. The results have been much more favorable.

Now, I surely would think that, in a 2012 model coach, all that would be remedied and, you wouldn't have to goof around with re-wiring your headlights to get more power and therefore, brighter filaments. And, maybe you don't. Maybe like has been stated, it's possible your aim is off.

You'll have to determine if they're aimed correctly. But, just to satisfy yourself, I'd maybe put a volt-ohm meter on your headlight plugs and see what kind of voltage you're getting right at the bulb. If you're over 12V, you're more than likely at close to peak for what's available. But, if you're less than 12V, well, then something might have to be done to boost that up so the bulbs get more volts and, therefore perform better.
Scott

tnteacherguy · 03-11-2015, 07:10 AM

I totally agree. I've driven my 13 Tour at night a few times and made the same comments to myself.
I've thought about brighter bulbs because it appears to be a simple upgrade but, I'm worried about whether or not the wiring is up to it. I've seen too many horror stories in automobiles that do this upgrade.

Anyone out there successfully increase their output?

Ranger Rick · 03-11-2015, 08:17 AM

Replaced my headlight bulbs with pita hid bulbs H-9. Have not driven at night yet but they should be brighter. Try pushing your headlight switch which will activate the lower fog lights, these add quite a bit more brightness. I did not know about wiring issue, hope I don't go up in flames.

Ranger Rick
2013 tour QD

D Lindy · 03-11-2015, 09:22 AM

Our 2012 Journey (which should have the same headlight) has more then sufficient headlight brightness when driving at night.

Bumps · 03-11-2015, 09:45 AM

I just ordered (yesterday) LED replacements for my Vectra. Plug and play with resistor kit built in. No need to change switches or wiring, either. I'm anxious to try them ... shop says I will be his first install on a motorhome. I'll report back, obviously. /ken

FIRE UP · 03-11-2015, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnteacherguy

I totally agree. I've driven my 13 Tour at night a few times and made the same comments to myself.
I've thought about brighter bulbs because it appears to be a simple upgrade but, I'm worried about whether or not the wiring is up to it. I've seen too many horror stories in automobiles that do this upgrade.

Anyone out there successfully increase their output?

tnteacherguy,
Well Sir, I've done a lot of wiring and headlight alterations and as of yet, NEVER seen any HORROR stories or, burnt skeletons of motor homes due to an upgraded headlight alteration.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bumps

I just ordered (yesterday) LED replacements for my Vectra. Plug and play with resistor kit built in. No need to change switches or wiring, either. I'm anxious to try them ... shop says I will be his first install on a motorhome. I'll report back, obviously. /ken

Bumbs,
I too will be anxious to read your reports on an LED change to the headlights. Companies have been marketing LED headlights for a while now but, as of yet, I have yet to read where they broadcast the same amount of light as a well working, properly voltaged, properly aimed standard headlight. I'm not saying don't do it. But, in the long time I've been goofing around with LEDs, they just don't seem to "THROW" out light like either incandescent or, Halogen or, HIDs do.

LEDs can be very bright to look at but, don't broadcast light equally yet. So, as stated, I would really like to hear your report on how well you think the new additions work for you. Good luck.
Scott

tnteacherguy · 03-11-2015, 12:19 PM

Scott

My reference to burnt wiring was specifically related to people upgrading from 35w/55w bulbs to 55w/90w. I saw pictures of melted Honda and Toyota wiring harnesses. Many people have upgraded without problems. But, I am sure their are people that think I'm conservative or cautious to ask for input before proceeding.

I've had HID lighting in autos that I've owned and they were well designed and very effective. Thus making nighttime vision very good.

I am glad for your insight stating LEDs may produce but not project more light. It appears that this could be the "next big thing" in lighting.

Since my goal is to improve my vision while driving in the dark I welcome your opinion.

Johndale · 03-11-2015, 12:47 PM

I am running new generation LED on my low beams and love them. Yes I know I have the old style but I went through it all changing types of lights. I put the Hella lights on mine were it is a h1 and H 4 bulb. I have a full collection of bulbs that didn't work. Stay away from the cheap LEDs and watch the color I am running 6000 range white.

Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

FIRE UP · 03-11-2015, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnteacherguy

Scott

My reference to burnt wiring was specifically related to people upgrading from 35w/55w bulbs to 55w/90w. I saw pictures of melted Honda and Toyota wiring harnesses. Many people have upgraded without problems. But, I am sure their are people that think I'm conservative or cautious to ask for input before proceeding.

I've had HID lighting in autos that I've owned and they were well designed and very effective. Thus making nighttime vision very good.

I am glad for your insight stating LEDs may produce but not project more light. It appears that this could be the "next big thing" in lighting.

Since my goal is to improve my vision while driving in the dark I welcome your opinion.

Roger that Sir. I have done a few "upgrades" too as in, going from 35W driving to 100W H4s and, it worked but, yes, the wiring did get a bit warm. There's a few things that must be taken into account when altering factory setups and wiring. Good quality grounds, all connections etc. But, of course, wiring size is at the top of the list. Anyway, good luck on your next move.
Scott

smack2020 · 03-11-2015, 01:50 PM

On my 2013 QD, one of the high beam lights was in upside down. The light shined up, dealer took light out and put in correctly. You might want to check to make sure they are in correct.

Scott

tderonne · 03-11-2015, 07:23 PM

Is this the headlights you are talking about?

Are there a pair of: Low beams, high beams, turn/park lights, and fog/driving lights?

Are they just 90mm Hella incandescent lights like some of the other models?

Steve COH · 03-11-2015, 08:36 PM

Bertman -

We also have a 2012 model, and recently had to drive at night (for the first time in months) due to getting caught in a traffic jam.

As it got darker, it became obvious something was wrong. There was very minimal light out front, and what light there was came from the rope lights on the front grill.

I had no low beams, but did have high beams and fog lights, so I drove the 70 miles to our stop with high beams on. I don't recommend it.

Both high and low are fed from the same relay, so the problem was either low beam wires or bulbs. I didn't think it likely that both would have burnt out so soon, only 25000 miles.

I was wrong.

Both low beams were burnt out, and since I rarely drive after dark, its hard telling how long they had been burnt out.

If your low beam bulbs are toasted, they run around $30 each at auto parts stores. Don't touch the bulb part with your hands.

We now add a headlight check to our routine.

As a side note, I found that both low and high use the same bulb, an H9. They're just aimed differently. I now know that you could switch bulbs and continue on.

Steve

Bumps · 03-17-2015, 07:48 PM

Quote:

I just ordered (yesterday) LED replacements for my Vectra. Plug and play with resistor kit built in. No need to change switches or wiring, either. I'm anxious to try them ... shop says I will be his first install on a motorhome. I'll report back, obviously. /ken

My LED headlight replacements came today -- wrong size. Now waiting for the right ones to make their way to me. Ugh! \ken

bertman · 03-21-2015, 07:26 PM

Yes, that's the same front end.

tnteacherguy · 03-21-2015, 08:57 PM

Hopefully, ken will have a pic for us soon. I'm looking forward to seeing unbiased information.

Bumps · 03-29-2015, 05:24 PM

The weather was finally nice enough today to install the headlight kit. First picture is the box that the kit came in, and then a picture of the kit. What is unusual about LED headlights is that they get very warm ... but not on the front-side of the lamp. The back side of each fixture has a threaded heat sink on it. There is a small fan unit that screws onto the heat sink. All of the heat from a LED bulb comes off the back of the bulb. The third picture is the loose assembly of the lamp, heat sink, and the resistor pack. The kit comes with idiot-proof connectors that make it an easy project. Once assembled, the whole unit plugs into the OEM headlight connector without needing to cut/splice any wires.

\ken

Bumps · 03-29-2015, 05:28 PM

The three-piece assembly was very easy to install. The only mod that I had to do was the removal of the metal hood that capped the OEM bulb inside the headlight housing.

These three pictures all show the backside of the headlight housing. I screwed the resistor pack to the bottom of the housing. After I clipped the bulb into the headlight socket, I screwed the fan unit over the heat sink. The second picture shows how the fan unit sticks out of the back of the housing opening. The blue connector is the Winnebago connector. In the third picture I taped and routed my wires away from the fan just in case the heat coming off the bulb might melt the wires.

\ken

Bumps · 03-29-2015, 05:33 PM

The Winnebago headlight housings were easy to remove and work on. I accessed the "release levers" for the housings from the inside by pulling out the genny tray. I did all of the work standing at the front of the coach with the factory wiring intact and connected to the motorhome. The headlight housings sat on the front cap while I installed the LED kits. The whole project took about 90 minutes -- 60 minutes for the first replacement, and 30 minutes for the second one (I learned from my mistakes).

All I can say is "WOW!" There appear to be two LEDs in each new fixture. When the high-beams are on, both LEDs are lit. My aging plastic lenses are not perfectly clear any more. These LEDs shine right through the faded and scratched plastic lens with a clear, bright-white light. I aimed the fixtures down a bit until I get a chance to properly focus them some evening. Will get to that in about a month, I think, since it is still winter up here and I still have the cover on the motorhome.

The local shop [unfortunately] did not sell a LED headlight kit that would fit in the space that I had to work with, so I ended up buying a [less expensive] kit recommended by a friend.

Amazon.com: 72W 6400LM High Power Cree LED Headlight Conversion Kit - Replaces Halogen & HID Bulbs - Multiple Bulb Size (9007 (HB5) Dual-beam LED): Automotive

Each bulb draws 1.3amps so no need to change any wiring. Regardless, this upgrade will be kinduva experiment. The test now will be how long these will last. The shop showed me several kits that were much more expensive -- this kit was $81 (Amazon). For $40ish a bulb, they are just a little bit more than the price of a SilverStar bulb, I figured. Can't wait to try them out on the road.

\ken