Cutting in a new roof vent

[bigb]

My Via has no roof vent in the bedroom. There were a few Vias produced with dual AC so I know it is possible. I received the roof drawings from Winnebago showing where the AC ducts are located and showing where the ribs are located and as I suspected there is ample space in the center to cut the hole, but there does not appear to be any framing in place for the optional 2nd vent/AC and it is not next to a rib. Question is, is it doable to cut in a roof vent then slip some framing into the space after cutting out some thermal insulation then attaching the roof vent flashing/housing? Ideally I would use this opening for a swamp cooler which weighs under 20 lbs wet. (My roof is a one piece fiberglass roof)

[BobC]

You certainly could cut in and insert some framing in the perimeter of your opening. Other that providing something more substantial to screw into, I don't think it's going to add much structural strength.

A lot would depend on the footprint of your 20# swamp cooler as compared to the hole. Is all the weight going to concentrated around the perimeter of the roof vent or will it be spread out over a larger area? Considering that one walks on the roof, 20# doesn't sound like much, but I wouldn't want to be the one to say yes or no.

You might want to have a conversation with someone at Winnebago about your plan and see what they say. You can also query them as to what additional structure there is if the second A/C is installed since it doesn't show on the plan. Do you know what the supporting structure is for the primary A/C, is it adjacent to a rib, etc?

This is more extreme than your situation but you may get some insight from these videos (parts 1, 2 and 3):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI5RUMlDoT4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EewwqoINDn4&t=9s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DahwsNTHG1Q

[bigb]

Thanks for the info, it secures at the hatch similar to an AC unit but the weight is distributed around the outer edge of the unit which is 35" X 22". https://www.turbokool.net/

[BobC]

Originally Posted by bigb

Thanks for the info, it secures at the hatch similar to an AC unit but the weight is distributed around the outer edge of the unit which is 35" X 22". https://www.turbokool.net/

This is good news. You're probably OK but I'd check with the manufacturer as well as Winnebago.

Bob

[JimStreit]

I put a roof vent in the bedroom of my 2003 Adventurer 35u. Like you, I followed the roof plans from Winnebago to ensure I didn't cut into a vent, wires or anything structural. I placed it as close to a roof joist for structural integrity and strength. I used placed about 1" of mastic tape on the roof around the opening before I fastened it down. Use a good amount of self leveling Dicor to seal all of the screws and seams.

[bigb]

Thanks Jim, that gives me more confidence. One thing that scares me a bit is the ceiling is covered with a simulated leather looking product and it has padding behind it, I'll have to be very careful cutting into that (no Sawzall)

[71_340]

I am not criticizing your idea about adding an additional vent. However, installing a swamp cooler wouldn't that be a bad idea in a RV since it will introduce additional moisture to the inside?

[bigb]

Originally Posted by 71_340

I am not criticizing your idea about adding an additional vent. However, installing a swamp cooler wouldn't that be a bad idea in a RV since it will introduce additional moisture to the inside?

Not at all, it's so dry here they keep a bucket of water inside the new rigs on the sales lots to keep the woodwork from drying out. When humidity is in the single digits adding more is beneficial to people and most building materials. I've had swamp coolers on 2 different rigs with super results. Makes boondocking possible without the loud generator.

During our 2 months of rain, or when in humid areas, the unit can be run dry and acts just like a whole house fan, and the fan is reversible.

[71_340]

Originally Posted by bigb

Not at all, it's so dry here they keep a bucket of water inside the new rigs on the sales lots to keep the woodwork from drying out. When humidity is in the single digits adding more is beneficial to people and most building materials. I've had swamp coolers on 2 different rigs with super results. Makes boondocking possible without the loud generator.

During our 2 months of rain, or when in humid areas, the unit can be run dry and acts just like a whole house fan, and the fan is reversible.

OK, I just looked at your details and noticed you from Arizona, so that is a great option for you. I did look at the link and really like the unit and the low weight and wish it would work for us.

When I bought our new RV last summer we soon found out that the factory installed 13.5K BTU AC unit was not quite enough for Missouri (lots of humidity). I played with the idea of installing an additional AC unit where our current bed room roof vent is. Since I have only a 30 Amp setup I instead replaced the existing AC with a 15K unit which works well enough to keep our 25' RV comfortable. I don't know how some can deal with only one AC unit in a 30' RV.

[Ozarkryder]

Originally Posted by 71_340

OK, I just looked at your details and noticed you from Arizona, so that is a great option for you. I did look at the link and really like the unit and the low weight and wish it would work for us.

When I bought our new RV last summer we soon found out that the factory installed 13.5K BTU AC unit was not quite enough for Missouri (lots of humidity). I played with the idea of installing an additional AC unit where our current bed room roof vent is. Since I have only a 30 Amp setup I instead replaced the existing AC with a 15K unit which works well enough to keep our 25' RV comfortable. I don't know how some can deal with only one AC unit in a 30' RV.

We are in SW MO, I feel your pain about the humidity. We have yet to camp where a swamp cooler would work. I went to WallyWorld and picked up a 20 pint dehumidifier. It only draws 3.7 amps and works well in conjunction with the AC. If the temperature is nice but the humidity is oppressive we can use the dehumidifier without running the AC.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by 71_340

I played with the idea of installing an additional AC unit where our current bed room roof vent is. Since I have only a 30 Amp setup I instead replaced the existing AC with a 15K unit which works well enough to keep our 25' RV comfortable. I don't know how some can deal with only one AC unit in a 30' RV.

As an FYI, I've seen folks install that 2nd A/C in the bedroom vent and then wire a separate 120v line down from the roof exclusively for the bedroom A/C.

When two A/Cs are needed they plug the RV into 30-amp like normal, and then plug the bedroom AC into one of the standard electrical plug receptacles that just about all RV power pedestals have installed.

That way they don't have to change the whole RV to 50-amp service and have a bunch of electrical circuit work done for the conversion.

[bigb]

Originally Posted by 71_340

OK, I just looked at your details and noticed you from Arizona, so that is a great option for you. I did look at the link and really like the unit and the low weight and wish it would work for us.

When I bought our new RV last summer we soon found out that the factory installed 13.5K BTU AC unit was not quite enough for Missouri (lots of humidity). I played with the idea of installing an additional AC unit where our current bed room roof vent is. Since I have only a 30 Amp setup I instead replaced the existing AC with a 15K unit which works well enough to keep our 25' RV comfortable. I don't know how some can deal with only one AC unit in a 30' RV.

I am a little concerned about our 13.5 cooling our 25 foot MH, will see. I haven't looked yet to see if a 15K is available in a heat pump model and low profile. It has to be low profile or I won't be able to store in my garage.

[RVwithDogs]

Creativepart, I have been toying with the idea you mentioned above but using a small window air unit modified to mount in the storage compartment and ducted between the beds in the Navion. Have seen several post on sites saying that campgrounds don't allow one to use both plugs on their post at the same time, Have you run across that in your travels ?

[creativepart]

I have seen a few, very few, that say one electrical connection per RV. I think as more and more electric vehicles become common, and accompany RVs via trailers or driven separately, campgrounds may start to really monitor this. But I doubt they do so now.

We used to carry a Satellite dish that needed 120v power to a converter that output 12v for the dish. We routine used the standard household receptacle in the CG pedestal without a single issue from any campground.