Compartment Lock Issue

billyrabbit · 06-23-2022, 12:11 PM

My 2005 Winnebago Vectra 36RD has a strange problem. The dealer who is repairing wind damage turned Auxiliary power off. However my solar panel is tied into the common bus feeding the 12V breakers. This supplied a minimum amount of power so when I tried to use the remote remote control for the compartment locks, the mechanism sort of made a funny noise and stopped working.

Since the solar panel was providing the power only minimal current was available and I did not get the normal snap action that usually opens and closes the locks. When I got into the motorhome I realized that Auxiliary power was turned off and set it back on. The door remote worked because it only needs minimal current for one solenoid. The compartment switch on the panel near the door does not have any affect either.

However the partially operated solenoids that control the lock/unlock function have left the locks unable to be actuated again and the key does not fully turn in any of the compartment locks so I have no access to the compartments. The key does turn part way but cannot lock or unlock the doors.

Any ideas on what to do next?

Morich · 06-23-2022, 12:40 PM

Have you tried starting the RV engine first?
That is one way to give good battery power to both start and coach systems? Perhaps try running the engine at a higher than idle for a couple minutes if there is a question of having good battery charge and then try the locks?

billyrabbit · 06-23-2022, 01:04 PM

Yes, house battery voltage is at 14.3 volts. Got drawings from Winnebago Customer Service which lack detail of the solenoid mechanism.

Morich · 06-23-2022, 02:46 PM

Okay, justprobing around looking for clues! One other point to ask about is the power to the locks and one way to sort that quick is to ask if the other door locks besides the compartment locks work.
Looking at the drawings, it looks like the power for the compartment locks also feeds the other door locks, so knowing entry door locks work would lead to it not being a fuse problem?

Are you a drawings type guy or rather not look there? No foul either way but if it is of interest, I can post up more details on how I'm getting some of this info. Some like it, some it just makes their head hurt!

This drawing top left corner has the compartment and other door lock info:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_150028.pdf

Looking at this chart to decode the use of each wire on the drawings.
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

Looking at MK, it tells me that is the power wire and it connects to both compartment and other door lock mechanics! One fails, we think both fail if it is a blown fuse!
Also a visor switch to check? I'm not familiar with that but you likely know?
EDIT: Just noticed it also feeds entry door pad, so does that work?
If all have failed,sounds like time to look for a fuse.
Click this snip to get a better view to see if that may make sense?

billyrabbit · 06-23-2022, 03:05 PM

Thanks for the drawings. I was reviewing similar drawings. Do you know where the left and right lock and unlock relays are located?

I don't have continuous access to the motorhome as it is at a dealer's repair center. Hopefully I can get my meter on a few leads tomorrow and if I can open a compartment door I can check fuses.

I also found this thread:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...en-191824.html

cbeierl · 06-23-2022, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billyrabbit

Thanks for the drawings. I was reviewing similar drawings. Do you know where the left and right lock and unlock relays are located?
...

Left front compartment. See page 4 of the Front End Wiring Installation for your coach. There are 6 relays for the locks--lock/unlock each for the door, right compartments, and left compartments.

billyrabbit · 06-23-2022, 04:15 PM

Thanks, I figured that is where they might be, in the locked compartment that I need to get into. This is going to be interesting.

Bill K.

cbeierl · 06-23-2022, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billyrabbit

Thanks, I figured that is where they might be, in the locked compartment that I need to get into. This is going to be interesting.

Bill K.

The thread you linked earlier has some good ideas worth exploring. I have used a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws holding the plastic catches for a compartment door to get it open when one of the latch mechanisms broke.

billyrabbit · 06-23-2022, 04:38 PM

Chris, I am printing that thread and taking it with me.

Bill K.

Morich · 06-23-2022, 04:42 PM

A note on how things can get confused when we speak of the drawings may save some time.
When drawn, there are sheet and frame numbers assigned but when those drawings are put in a computer, there are page numbers assigned by the machine which really don't relate to any of the drawing info.

In this case page one is just the warning page and location info is on sheet 1 but called page 2 at the top and then for the detail view from CB, you go down to sheet 3 which the computer calls page 4!!! See what I mean about confusing things?

But if you find info on one sheet, showing a plug is on some other sheet, they will be using the numbering down in the lower right, not the computer generated number at the top. It can hang a lot of poeple up as it often gets into sheet and frame numbers as the pages would be if laid out in a line and the number at the top goes beyond the number of sheets in the set.

Part of following the Winnebago style is that wire by wire schematics will often be found in the "diagram" sets and location can be sorted better in the "installation" group.

That other post from back in 2014? Not the best way to sort trouble! Swapping a suspect relay with a known good one IS a good plan!

Lots of different ways to go and we often don't know which is best until we've found the problem.

billyrabbit · 06-23-2022, 08:13 PM

Thanks for the info.

Bill K.

Ray,IN · 06-26-2022, 09:23 PM

Winnebago used SCS-Frigette and TRIMARK remote locking systems. There should be a TRIMARK control box under the dash somewhere, I can't remember much else, my experience with it was in 2013.

cbeierl · 06-26-2022, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Winnebago used SCS-Frigette and TRIMARK remote locking systems. There should be a TRIMARK control box under the dash somewhere, I can't remember much else, my experience with it was in 2013.

It is in the left front compartment in the OPs Vectra 36RD.

CJBROWN · 06-27-2022, 09:37 AM

Check for blown fuse first.

billyrabbit · 07-21-2022, 07:55 PM

After much checking, calling Winnebago Customer Service, and working with my repair dealer, we now know that 9 of 10 power locks have failed. The mechanisms are seized and the push rod cannot be moved. The dealer 'broke into' each compartment and disconnected the push rod from the power lock so that the key can be used to lock and unlock. When the compartment lock switch is moved from side to side, +12 V appears at the appropriate lead on the power lock. The power lock itself is a sealed unit.

1.Is there any hope of making these work again?
2.Where can I find a replacement lock at a reasonable price? $75 per unit is not reasonable?

Thanks to all those who tried to help me troubleshoot this issue. Winnebago was also baffled as to why 9 of 10 locks seized simultaneously.

cbeierl · 07-21-2022, 08:20 PM

I think these are compatible, but not 100% sure: Zone Tech 4-Pack Universal High Power Door Lock Actuator - Premium Quality Heavy Duty Durable High Power Door Lock Actuator

billyrabbit · 07-21-2022, 08:55 PM

Thanks Chris for the help.
Amazon.ca also carries these.
The $75 price was in US dollars or about $100 Canadian
The Amazon.ca price was about $6.50 Canadian each and they will be here on Saturday.
Looks like these should work.

Thanks again.

Morich · 07-22-2022, 06:24 AM

I would want to tear a couple of these apart to find why they are seized and what would explain them all failing at the same time.
Did you drive through ice/snow chemicals and all the compartments leak at the same time?

And then there is also the question of why the fuse did not blow? Normally if we try to use a 12Volt item and it won't move, it draws too much current and blows/trips the fuse or breaker.

Seems pretty odd that none of the normal things happened and nobody knows why?

billyrabbit · 07-22-2022, 08:32 AM

I had planned to take one apart to see what has caused it to fail. The compartments have not been exposed to any snow or salt. I had initially thought these were solenoids but it seems they are motors with a clutch.

Fuses and breakers were good and relays are working properly.

Bill K.

Morich · 07-22-2022, 10:28 AM

I'm most likely somewhat paranoid!
When two things fail at the same time, I begin to question the timing and why. When 9-10 fail, that really sets my mind in motion!
There are times when we just need tomove on if we can find a solution to the problem but that always leaves me wondering if there is something there that is going to blow the new ones like what happened to the old??

Is there a common button which controls all and might have stuck at some point to leave them powered for a long enough period to heat and fail?
Stored for an extreme amount of time to allow heat to dry the lube in them?

Goood luck with the fix, but always leaves the nagging doubts!