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Old 02-07-2014, 03:59 PM   #41
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Today we got one of the doors open by removing the bracket. We were unable to manually move the mechanism from the locked position to the unlocked position. unplugging the wires did not allow us to override with the key. We cannot get to the back of the relays. Also discovered that the entry door lower lock also does not work (it is also on the right side) We generally only lock the upper lock so hadn't noticed that. The porch light turns on when you use the electric door lock so some power is getting through.

We have tried multiple keys.

We have an appointment at a Winnebago dealer on Monday morning. It appears there is an electrical problem up the line. Hopefully they can find it. Winnebago has sent us the schematics for the system and my DH is trying to trace the system.

We cannot disconnect the batteries as they are in one of the locked compartments.

We are fulltimers so it is a pain not being able to get in these compartments. Thanks to everyone for the help offered so far.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:08 PM   #42
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Today we got one of the doors open by removing the bracket. We were unable to manually move the mechanism from the locked position to the unlocked position. unplugging the wires did not allow us to override with the key. We cannot get to the back of the relays. Also discovered that the entry door lower lock also does not work (it is also on the right side) We generally only lock the upper lock so hadn't noticed that. The porch light turns on when you use the electric door lock so some power is getting through.

We have tried multiple keys.

We have an appointment at a Winnebago dealer on Monday morning. It appears there is an electrical problem up the line. Hopefully they can find it. Winnebago has sent us the schematics for the system and my DH is trying to trace the system.

We cannot disconnect the batteries as they are in one of the locked compartments.

We are fulltimers so it is a pain not being able to get in these compartments. Thanks to everyone for the help offered so far.
Thanks for the update and good luck !!
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:33 PM   #43
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TripleE,
On your one open compartment door, unscrew the three or four screws holding the plastic cover on the backside of the handle. You should then see the plastic actuator and should be able to move it back and forth (or up and down) to unlock the compartment. But, first disconnect the two wires connected to the lock. Then, try your keys. It is possible you do not have the correct key.
After you manually get it unlocked; re-attach the wires. If it immediately locks then you, indeed, have a wire problem (or the controller is bad). But at the least you will figure out if you have the correct key.
Taking off the plastic cover will not hurt anything.
Keep us posted.
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:35 AM   #44
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TripleE,, now that you have one of he door open and the locking unit disconnected this would be a good time the do a quick electrical check.
First check for voltage on either wire and if there is 12VDC what is the wire number.
Secondly if no voltage check that each wire is grounded, this is the normal state when there is not a command to lock or unlock.
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:48 AM   #45
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TripleE,, now that you have one of he door open and the locking unit disconnected this would be a good time the do a quick electrical check.
First check for voltage on either wire and if there is 12VDC what is the wire number.
Secondly if no voltage check that each wire is grounded, this is the normal state when there is not a command to lock or unlock.

And ... tell us how you got the one compartment door open.
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:17 AM   #46
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TripleE,
On your one open compartment door, unscrew the three or four screws holding the plastic cover on the backside of the handle. You should then see the plastic actuator and should be able to move it back and forth (or up and down) to unlock the compartment. But, first disconnect the two wires connected to the lock. Then, try your keys. It is possible you do not have the correct key.
After you manually get it unlocked; re-attach the wires. If it immediately locks then you, indeed, have a wire problem (or the controller is bad). But at the least you will figure out if you have the correct key.
Taking off the plastic cover will not hurt anything.
Keep us posted.

We got the door open by removing the latch, not something we want to do permanently. Anyway, what you suggested is exactly what we did but were unable to move the actuator. It is like it is frozen. Just for info - we have used the keys we have for the last 2 years so the problem is not the key. We have tried 4 different keys (yes, we have that many sets).

We are going to try a different door today to see if the outcome is different (I can always dream, can't I?)
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:01 AM   #47
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My thoughts are that you might have a continuous 12 volts going to the lock wire at the compartment door servo. This would in effect prevent you from being able to turn the key. Can you check the wires at the door with a test light to see if this is the case? If so, the remote door locking control module is probably shot. If you can remove the 12 volt power source going to the compartment doors, you should be able to open them with a key.

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Old 02-08-2014, 11:58 AM   #48
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My thoughts are that you might have a continuous 12 volts going to the lock wire at the compartment door servo. This would in effect prevent you from being able to turn the key. Can you check the wires at the door with a test light to see if this is the case? If so, the remote door locking control module is probably shot. If you can remove the 12 volt power source going to the compartment doors, you should be able to open them with a key.

Sammie
I don't have a Winnie so I can't visualize the lock/actuator but, since you removed the wires and it had no affect, I'm beginning to think the actuators had continuous power applied (a bad relay for instance) and now the actuators have mechanically seized (melted). Anybody have a picture of the components to post???
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:06 PM   #49
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My thoughts are that you might have a continuous 12 volts going to the lock wire at the compartment door servo. This would in effect prevent you from being able to turn the key. Can you check the wires at the door with a test light to see if this is the case? If so, the remote door locking control module is probably shot. If you can remove the 12 volt power source going to the compartment doors, you should be able to open them with a key.

Sammie
I think we were all leaning toward that conclusion but (from yesterday):

"Today we got one of the doors open by removing the bracket. We were unable to manually move the mechanism from the locked position to the unlocked position. unplugging the wires did not allow us to override with the key."
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:12 PM   #50
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Are they like these?

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Old 02-08-2014, 01:30 PM   #51
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Are they like these?

Similar but not exact.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:16 PM   #52
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Similar but not exact.
In cars, these have been known to seize in the locked or unlocked position ... but, so many at once ... yikes
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:16 PM   #53
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TripleE,
Let's assume you "fried" the actuator and it will not move. Just take it off (watch how you get the rod disconnected). Then, you have no electric involved (just like your house.) Now try your key. Then report back.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:53 PM   #54
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TripleE,
Let's assume you "fried" the actuator and it will not move. Just take it off (watch how you get the rod disconnected). Then, you have no electric involved (just like your house.) Now try your key. Then report back.
We did this today and can now lock and unlock the compartments with the keys. All 5 doors now work manually. We are making an appointment at Winnebago this summer so will have them look at it when we get there. Until then, we will work with it this way. Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:07 PM   #55
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TripleE,
Finally, progress. Enjoy your non-remote lockable compartment doors. Have a great Spring.
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:58 PM   #56
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We did this today and can now lock and unlock the compartments with the keys. All 5 doors now work manually. We are making an appointment at Winnebago this summer so will have them look at it when we get there. Until then, we will work with it this way. Thanks everyone for the help.
WooHoo !! now it works just like my 1997 Endeavor !!

BTW, the actuators are a bit pricey ... plus whatever the original problem was (probably a stuck relay). You have a few months to decide whether a key is inconvenient.
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:11 AM   #57
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Well our last 3 rigs didn't have electronic locks so I guess we will survive without them for awhile. Thanks again
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:52 AM   #58
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I replaced one on my Horizon for less than $5. From E-Bay

search for:

Universal 12-Volt Power Door Lock Actuator Motor
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