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Old 02-05-2014, 05:08 AM   #21
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At this point, you may want to have a good look at one of the lock assemblies on the WORKING side to see how it works mechanically and electrically.
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:29 AM   #22
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All the doors. There is no sound when using the switches and the key does not click when turned. It will only turn up, not down, which is needed to unlock them. We have owned the rig for about 2 years and this is the first time with this problem.

Hopefully if the whole thing needs to be replaced my extended warranty will cover it.
Well that tells me it's electrical and needs to be traced to that circuit that should be all on one. Could be something as simple as a loose wire or broken wire in the circuit on that side. The locking system is not complicated. Get the doors open and a large phillips and remove the plate on the inside of the door and look at all the connections inside the doors. The locking system is a fairly straight forward system that uses a accuator to disable the door handle when locked.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:05 AM   #23
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TripleE,
If the switch will only work up and not down, it means the switch has shorted out and is holding the doors in the locked position. Just take the panel out and pull the wires off the back of the switch. Be sure to mark them so you know where to put them on the new switch. Getting the switch out is a little tricky but I am sure with a small screw driver you can move the tabs to get it out.
Oh, it just occurred to me... turn off the 12 volt disconnect switch for the house and chassis batteries, and then try your keys. I am not sure on your motorhome which fuse powers the controller but it is not the two fuses for the left and right side. It is an accessory fuse for the front of the motorhome. In any event, you have to get the power off that switch because it is the cause of your problem. Let us know what you find out.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:47 AM   #24
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TripleE,
If the switch will only work up and not down, it means the switch has shorted out and is holding the doors in the locked position. Just take the panel out and pull the wires off the back of the switch. Be sure to mark them so you know where to put them on the new switch. Getting the switch out is a little tricky but I am sure with a small screw driver you can move the tabs to get it out.
Oh, it just occurred to me... turn off the 12 volt disconnect switch for the house and chassis batteries, and then try your keys. I am not sure on your motorhome which fuse powers the controller but it is not the two fuses for the left and right side. It is an accessory fuse for the front of the motorhome. In any event, you have to get the power off that switch because it is the cause of your problem. Let us know what you find out.
Dennis, so far your idea to remove the 12 volt power going to the compartment door actuators seems to be the most logical. The key should then work to open the locks.

Sammie.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:03 AM   #25
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You can open the door next to the one that does not open and remove latch housing 2 screws to free up latch catch inside door , do this on both sides of the non working door and you can open the broken door , sometimes the latches inside door get brittle and break off inside door and if it breaks off the key or latch handle will not work to free the latch housing.

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Old 02-05-2014, 08:24 AM   #26
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You can open the door next to the one that does not open and remove latch housing 2 screws to free up latch catch inside door , do this on both sides of the non working door and you can open the broken door , sometimes the latches inside door get brittle and break off inside door and if it breaks off the key or latch handle will not work to free the latch housing.

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Jimooo The OP says that all the doors on the passenger side will not open. Otherwise your idea might possibly work.



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Old 02-05-2014, 10:04 AM   #27
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Thanks,

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Old 02-05-2014, 11:00 AM   #28
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OP here - due to events we will not be able to work on this until probably Friday and over the weekend. We did try to unlock it when the relays were off and it didn't work. We also did try using the battery disconnect and the key still didn't work. DH is planning on trying the listed suggestions as soon as we have some free time. Luckily this side is where we store stuff, not the connections side. I will keep the thread updated. Thanks for your suggestions
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:16 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by TripleE View Post
OP here - due to events we will not be able to work on this until probably Friday and over the weekend. We did try to unlock it when the relays were off and it didn't work. We also did try using the battery disconnect and the key still didn't work. DH is planning on trying the listed suggestions as soon as we have some free time. Luckily this side is where we store stuff, not the connections side. I will keep the thread updated. Thanks for your suggestions
The downside is that the entire bank of actuators may be energized and drawing power. You might try pulling the Negative cable from the associated batteries (I assume House) and see if the doors release with a key. The Bat Disc. does not always remove ALL power.
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Old 02-05-2014, 12:06 PM   #30
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Try another key, stranger things have happened.
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:41 PM   #31
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TripleE, I spend some time this evening looking at the drawings of the door locks on your coach.
1) The locks are latching solenoids, that is they need power to lock and power to unlock.
The key should override the locked solenoid but it is hard to move sometime.
2) The same manual switch and keyless entry remote module signal controls all of the locks.
Wire EEA controls the left and right unlock relays
Wire DOZ controls the left and right lock relays
3) As mentioned before there is a breaker for the left and a breaker for the right side.
Things to check.
Can you feel the relays pull in, both locks or both unlocks should work together.
Check voltage and grounds at the relay socket.
pin 87 power from breaker
pin 85 and 87a ground
pin 30 goes to lock
pin 86 signal from keyless entry module and manual switch.
The relays control which side of the locks gets 12VDC while the other side is grounded and this is switched to lock or unlock the locks.
A missing ground as well as missing 12VDC could cause the problem.
Did you say the manual switch did not feel right?
Good luck!
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:57 AM   #32
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TripleE, After though, if the left side is working that means the manual switch is ok and the problem is at the relays or farther now stream.
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:28 AM   #33
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As stated in Post #8, the doors are tight. (2008 Winni) I have found that if I do not put my knee against the door (or hand) and push slightly to take the pressure off the latch, the key will not turn. same goes for closing to latch, and locking. So push against the door(s) and wiggle the key. It just may be that the angle of the dangle has happened and the door is pressing against the latch, holding it in place. Hope it works.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:11 AM   #34
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I agree with Grant, I think it could be a relay problem also. Check to see if you have another relay in your fuse block like the one that is used on your doors, if you have one pull it and use it in place of the one your are trouble shooting. Hopefully this will solve your problem.

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Old 02-06-2014, 09:14 AM   #35
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Wayne,
Your latches may be different but I do not think the key has anything to do with how tight the door latch is. The key unlocks the handle. The handle then pulls on the cords that pull the latch at the side (or bottom) of the door. That said, by pushing on the compartment door it may be flexing the handle and allowing the key to turn easier. But, you still have to pull the handle in order to open the compartment door. I wish I had a photo to show you the back side of the handle.
I have previously lost the ability to unlock a single door because the nuts on the little triangle lever on the back side became too tight. It would allow the lock to unlock but you could not pull on the handle. I had to take it apart and replace the lock nut.
It will be interesting to find out what TripleE finds out is the cause of his problem.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:49 AM   #36
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dengraham, The problem with electric door locks is you have to move the locking solenoid with the key not just the lock. On our 03 Journey the front entry door would fail to unlock sometimes and it took a lot of force turning the key to push the solenoid back to unlock the door. It's almost like turning a motor not just a quick click.
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:56 AM   #37
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I'm having a hard time imaging that ALL of the door locks on one side can't be manually unlocked unless the actuators are being continuously driven to the lock position.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:19 AM   #38
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bruceisla, I agree TripleE put the right side relays and try all of the compartment door.
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:29 PM   #39
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Make that pull the right side relays.
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:36 PM   #40
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Make that pull the right side relays.
Or disconnect the batteries (with a wrench, not the salesman switch) and try the keys.
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