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Old 12-31-2024, 01:59 PM   #1
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Location: Hudson, NC
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Cold weather coming - recommendations for Vista 26HE

I just purchased my 2014 Vista 26HE two weeks ago. I had it inspected, after which the POs re-winterized it. First any way to double check that they did it correctly?

Second, any suggestions for cold proofing it? I bought the Wave 8, but now I have to get some temporary fixins to run it until I can get help with a permanent propane tap, I'm guessin' under the oven.

I am plugged in to an outside outlet at my apartment but that is only good for 20 amps best case.

I got the propane filled and can run the built-in furnace if necessary.

Do I even need to worry about this? It's due to get down to the low teens where I am in NC. Does anyone use remote temperature monitoring for the tank storage compartment?
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Old 12-31-2024, 04:49 PM   #2
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I would get the owners manual from WBGO if you don't already have it for your specific coach. It will likely show two options. I would do Option #1 which is simply to drain the water and blow out. Now in your case it should already be winterized, but I would do myself to be 100% sure.

If you do not have a air compressor, buy one for the blowout and you can also use it to maintain the air pressure in tires.

You don't need to do anything else, but you may monitor the batteries to see if they have any parasitic draws? If they do, get it fixed. A lot of people d a lot of things to mitigate draws, but unless you have what I call a design flaw or restriction by Mercedes Benz, it is fixable.

Things I would look out for?

1. Make sure waste tanks are 100% empty
2. Make sure water heater is drained
3. Make sure water filter has been drained
5. Drain the pump filter cap


I don't use RV Antifreeze in my fresh water supply lines, but I do pour a cup in the p traps. There are many that swear by putting RV Anti Freeze in the lines and it is possible the PO did and if that is the case you can just dismiss all I say. I just view Anti Freeze as old school and RVs are designed today to be properly drained. Just get all the water out and you don't have to worry about anything.

Also 15/20 amps is plenty. But I don't heat my coach unless I am using it. If you have drained all of your water out, it is impossible to have any freeze damage.
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Old 01-01-2025, 04:13 AM   #3
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As already said your best friend is the Owners Manual, it will tell you all about winterizing.
https://winnebago.com/owners/owner-r...r-manuals/2014

I quess my question is why do you want to heat the unit?
The onboard propane furnace will use up the propane almost faster than you can fill it.

Unless you are going to be living in the unit, it makes no sense to heat it. Read the owners manual on winterizing. I am a believer in using the RV Antifreeze to winterize. If the folks you had do the winterizing did use antifreeze and did it correctly you should have no problem. On the other hand if you feel uncomfortable about it, rewinterize.
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Old 01-01-2025, 05:11 PM   #4
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Winterizing

I had a 2013 same model. I would redo the winterization according the procedures in the owners manual. Unless you really trust the previous owner. And turn on the battery disconnect switches so they are disconnected. That’s all I would do.
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Old 01-15-2025, 02:16 PM   #5
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I never heat mine when winterizing, leaving it unpowered.

I shut off the shore water if attached, drain and store the hoses, turn off the onboard water pump, pull the drain valves open (they are at the lowest point in the water system, usually on the floor in the water bay...they drain to the ground), step on the toilet flush pedal several times while working, blow 25 PSI air into the pipes starting at the shower and working to the lowest point, one faucet at a time, remove and drain the water pump (usually designed with easy removal in mind), than dump some pink stuff into all the drains (P-traps just like a home - expect the toilet, that just dumps into the tank) using RV'ers antifreeze that is safe for animals and sewage systems, and than depend on the excellent freeze resistance of modern PEX plumbing and the holding tank plastics. Even if there is some residual liquid in the tanks, the huge air space above is a relief if any liquids freeze. And the tanks are damage resistant from freezing.

Some people suck the pink stuff into the water system but most of us just use the blow out method as the pink stuff has an unpleasant taste that sticks around and takes too many water flushes to eliminate. Most of the US is in a drought situation and wasting water to flush multiple times isn't a great idea.

You can test the OPs winterizing method by just opening all the water valves, remember the shower and the washer if you have one or it's plumbed for one, than opening the drain valves. Might spit out a little residual water, but it should stop in a few seconds if the original winterizing was done well. Leave all the water valves open.
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Old 01-15-2025, 04:57 PM   #6
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With the current Winnebago Journey we just drain and blow the lines and so far have not had a problem.

A few years back we had an Airstream 345 Turbo Diesel which did not gravity drain very well. I would blow it out but was never sure I got all the water out, so, I would buy the cheapest Vodka I could find. I mean the cheapest. Then I would suck the lines all full of Vodka. Surprisingly it didn't take all that much. Just a couple of fifths would do it.

Lots of nay sayers warned me of all the dangers of drying out pipes connections and such. Never happened in the 14 years we owned it.

The advantages are, no frozen pipes, It has no taste, it sanitizes and in the Spring if you want, you can have a coming out party.
(I never did that).
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Old 01-16-2025, 08:58 AM   #7
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Vodka! Brilliant! You sir win the internet today.
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