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Old 10-06-2024, 10:44 AM   #1
2018 Vista 32YE
 
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Chassis Battery - 2018 Vista32YE

Odd that the manual dies not point out the (motor starting) battery.
Appreciate your assistance to a newbe.
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Old 10-06-2024, 11:02 AM   #2
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Hi Sooeey. I'm not sure what is your question. Are you trying to find the starting battery (it is located under the entry step) or looking for a recommendation on what battery to buy to replace it?

Also, if your starting battery is dead, you can still use the boost switch on your dashboard to start the engine from the house batteries.
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Old 10-06-2024, 12:32 PM   #3
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Info on Rv is often setout by who made that part. Unlike a car or truck, the RV is a "collection" of parts made by different builders and each of those builders are expected to handle their parts. Like at our house, perhaps? The builder may do the wood, etc. but the frig, stove and furnace are still for those other folks to handle!

And that leads to the next questions as you should have a bag of info with each of the major parts having a manual to help. There should be a manual with chassis info in that bag.
One reason for this system may be the way RV are built on what is called a "stripped chassis" that they buy from the other folks. That means the RV builder rarely knows much about what the chassis builder has done, other than where the RV and chassis connect together.
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Old 10-06-2024, 12:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sooeey View Post
Odd that the manual dies not point out the (motor starting) battery.
Sure they do! It's in your Operator's Manual. Section 6 - Electrical. There's even a photo of your battery bay and the chassis and house batteries are identified.

Here's the photo in your Operator's Manual
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Old 10-06-2024, 07:23 PM   #5
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The original Chassis Battery is Ford supplied as part of the Ford F53 chassis part of the motorhome. The OEM in V10 vintage F53 is a Group Size 65 Maintenance Free 78 Amp-Hour 750 CCA Flooded Lead Acid Battery, Non-AGM.

You'll want to check your Ford Owners Manual to confirm that this was still the size and type used on the V8 F53 Chassis.
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Old 10-07-2024, 08:19 AM   #6
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Or for more specific schematic type info, go here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm
You may need to choose which build, early or late, by looking at the 7th digit of the serial number. Not the VIN! A 1 for early or 2 for later.
That lets you chose the correct drawing set. Then go to the "battery installation section for drawings and other info that is good to have when needed!

There's a lot of info on line and finding how to get to it is a big trick to learn!
For parts :
https://catalog.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
Or plumbing:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...m/Plumbing.htm

Good luck on the search!
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Old 10-08-2024, 04:04 PM   #7
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Chassis battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
Sure they do! It's in your Operator's Manual. Section 6 - Electrical. There's even a photo of your battery bay and the chassis and house batteries are identified.

Here's the photo in your Operator's Manual
Thank you!
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Old 10-09-2024, 04:52 PM   #8
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Uodate: I only have one 24-M coach battery reading 14.2 amps and one 65-7 chassis battery reading 0.7 amps. Started engine and running reading is 12.8 amps.
Obvious space for missing coach battery. Just bought the Vista32YE in April and didn't notice the 2nd battery missing.
I know I need to purchase another 24-M coach battery.
Would the dead chassis battery be the result of only having one coach battery?
Thinking I should drive it to local Interstate battery store for battery and get the alternator checked.
Thoughs/suggestions?
Appreciate the help.
Sooeey
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Old 10-09-2024, 04:54 PM   #9
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Images

Battery compartment pix
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Old 10-09-2024, 04:59 PM   #10
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Correction... volts
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Old 10-09-2024, 06:53 PM   #11
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There are lots of smallish point to learn and batteries are one of the more confusing items as not all is as it first seems.
None of us started out knowing the things we know now, so don't consider it odd if you are confused or missing points!

One of those big points on batteries is that voltage readings are less exact than the meter tells us.
Battery voltages can be somewhat like pouring something thick like syrup in a hole in a barrel! If we pour it in and look in the hole too soon, we can get the idea that the barrel is much closer to full than if we wait for the syrup to settle and become stable.

The readings we get with batteries act the same in that we charge the battery by putting power in at the posts and then it takes time for that power to move all through the cells and all the chemicals. If we look too soon after charging or discharging the battery, we get what is often called "surface charge" readings.

I mention this and assume you are a victim as the chemical reaction will only hold near 12.8 volts if the battery has had time to settle down and becomes stable! The 14+ reading is kind of what is built up from recent charging! A really good nice lead acid battery will only hold at 12.8, at best. But to get that amount charged into the battery, we often charge at near 14 to speed the process a bit.

Some points to keep in mind? One indication of what the alternator is doing can be as simple as looking at the chassis battery voltage. As you crank the engine , that voltage will go down , often quite a lot, but as soon as the engine runs and the alternator puts out voltage, it should pop above 12.8 and if you rev the engine, the voltage run up and down. That is because you are seeing the voltage from the alternator getting to the battery and not the actual battery voltage!
If we go back to the syrup story, you are looking at the syrup you are pouring in, not at how much is in the barrel!
The voltage on both coach and chassis batteries should be very near the same as they are connected together when the engine is running. You may get 13+ on both but then when you shut the engine off, the connection is broken and each battery will only show the charge voltage for a bit but begin to go down for as long as 4-6 hours while the settle! You may get 13-14 while running, shut engine down and maybe get 12.9 or more? But if you come back in a few hours the best batteries will only show 12.8!
Big point is how slow batteries operate. It takes a long time, maybe 6 hours to fully charge a really low battery.
To verify a battery is good, we need to put a charger on for at least 6 hours and then wait maybe 4 hours to let it settle. Then if we got it fully charged and it shows up only having 10 volts, we can say it is a bad battery!
Stores can do this faster if we take them a battery we have charged, as they put a load on the battery and watch how it holds up.

Sad to say, but folks do often sell RV when the batteries are needing replaced, so needing new is not uncommon! ARRGH!
Over the years and many Rv buys, I have kind of started figuring in the cost of new each time! And putting a new coach battery in alongside an old will just make the new fail sooner. Not a good idea as it costs more than starting fresh with both coach new. But you can look at chassis and coach as different issues.

Lots of small points to figure and we are all here to try to smooth the road a bit!
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Old 10-10-2024, 10:13 AM   #12
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Great visual explanation of battery charging!
Will put a charger on the chassis battery overnight this weekend and let sit for 6 hrs then test.
I will also pull step completely out so as to identify battery manufacturers.
Looks like the last days of warm weather here in Eugene Oregon so will make time to drain water systems and winterize w rv antifreeze and other steps per useful information provided on this great forum
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Old 10-16-2024, 12:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sooeey View Post
Uodate: I only have one 24-M coach battery reading 14.2 amps and one 65-7 chassis battery reading 0.7 amps. Started engine and running reading is 12.8 amps.
Obvious space for missing coach battery. Just bought the Vista32YE in April and didn't notice the 2nd battery missing.
I know I need to purchase another 24-M coach battery.
Would the dead chassis battery be the result of only having one coach battery?
Thinking I should drive it to local Interstate battery store for battery and get the alternator checked.
Thoughs/suggestions?
Appreciate the help.
Sooeey
You are confusing amps for volts, most RV's will have two coach batteries connected in series or parallel depending if they are six-volt or 12-volt batteries! At 0.7 volts your coach battery is toast!
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Old 10-16-2024, 06:49 AM   #14
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Thanks for the correction Bobn1957. I meant amps as in the flow of current rather than force.
Last weekend I hooked up a battery charger/tender to problem discharged chassis battery for 6 hrs then disconnected it for 4 hrs. The separate multimeter read 12.8 amps. Will continue to monitor the battery each week w/o cranking the engine to assure me it is indeed holding a sufficient charge.
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Old 10-16-2024, 12:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sooeey View Post
Thanks for the correction Bobn1957. I meant amps as in the flow of current rather than force.
Last weekend I hooked up a battery charger/tender to problem discharged chassis battery for 6 hrs then disconnected it for 4 hrs. The separate multimeter read 12.8 amps. Will continue to monitor the battery each week w/o cranking the engine to assure me it is indeed holding a sufficient charge.
I'm a retired Airport Electrician and looked after emergency power systems, one of our tests was to record the lowest voltage when cranking a cold engine, if the voltage dropped below 9.5 volts we replaced the battery to maintain confidence the generator would start when needed! Looking at your pictures, there is room for another battery in the compartment, you could double up the house battery as most of us have two!
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Old 10-16-2024, 01:59 PM   #16
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Yes I plan to purchase a second coach battery as I was surprised to see that space empty.
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Old 10-16-2024, 04:20 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Sooeey View Post
Yes I plan to purchase a second coach battery as I was surprised to see that space empty.
Newer batteries have date stickers on them, if the existing battery tests OK and is only a few years old get the new one in the same size as the existing battery, the battery bank will only charge to the level of the battery in the poorest condition. Some people might chime in here and suggest you get two six-volt batteries instead of two twelve-volt batteries, but in my opinion, they are the same, your only consideration is price and warranty!
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Old 10-19-2024, 02:12 PM   #18
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Costco has pretty good prices on batteries. That's where I get my 6V pair and 12V pair when I need to. Or at least did a few years ago. I would replace both batts so they're matched and sell the one that's in there.
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Old 10-21-2024, 07:50 AM   #19
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I was wondering about them being the same # 24 manufacturer.
Have a single Battery Solutions brand coach battery is dated C-24 but think best to go with same DieHard Gold.
Question: could I put two Lithium coach batteries w/o any problems when jumping (helping) start the chassis standard #65 battery?
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Old 10-22-2024, 04:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sooeey View Post
I was wondering about them being the same # 24 manufacturer.
Have a single Battery Solutions brand coach battery is dated C-24 but think best to go with same DieHard Gold.
Question: could I put two Lithium coach batteries w/o any problems when jumping (helping) start the chassis standard #65 battery?
Changing to Lithium will require the charging system to be upgraded to accommodate the higher charging voltage required and a DC-to-DC converter between the chassis system and the coach system for the same reason.
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