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Old 03-05-2014, 01:53 PM   #21
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Toad Charge also has an option that uses your 7 pin connector that saves about $20
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Old 03-05-2014, 02:30 PM   #22
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If it were me I'd do #1.
But begs the question...why can't you just turn off the radio if that key mode is accessory? Is there that much residual drain? Enough to kill the battery?


From all I've read, it's the navi system that also runs off the "accessory radio" fuse that creates the drain even if the radio is turned-off. I read a posting that said they only got about 3 hours of towing with the CR-V with the navi sys.

I've discovered that Blue Ox makes a fuse disconnect kit and when I read the installation instructions it addressed the CR-V even so far as recommending the install location. It runs about $65. (It would probably be a lot cheaper just going to an auto parts or Radio Shack and picking up the parts.) I'm leaning toward a fuse disconnect because it seems simple and eliminates worry (real or perceived!) about overcharging or discharging the battery.
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Old 03-05-2014, 03:17 PM   #23
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I have a Demco Commander tow bar with a Stay-N-Play break system (Air-Force-One is the sister product if air breaks on MH). The Stay-N-Play fits into the engine compartment without issue. Mine is zip tied to the top of the engine.

I love this set up compared to the old BreakBuddy system I previously used. The set up and disconnect is far easier when towing and there is far less to forget or worry about when doing so. Another benefit is that the system is far more consistent in sensitivity and breaking. Experience will tech you what I mean.

Regardless of the equipment you decide to go with, flat towing is far, far, far more easier, and a wonderful improvement than using a tow dolly, which is what I started with.
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:23 PM   #24
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I had an older CRV w/o navigation and never had a battery problem and never pulled any fuses. Our 2012 CRV has navigation and that is the primary drain, not the radio or any other device. The navigation system will keep "searching" unless the power is disconnected and that's the reason for pulling the fuse or installing a fused switch. If you have just a little basic 12volt knowledge, and you are comfortable working with hand tools, then buying a few components at Radio Shack and installing your own fuse and switch is very inexpensive and easy to do. If not, buy a kit. In my experience, there is no reason to have an external charging system for a CRV toad. If you do a search on this site I'm sure you can come up with detailed instructions, pics, etc.

But, pick whatever option you like and feel good about it

cheers,
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Old 03-05-2014, 05:57 PM   #25
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I had an older CRV w/o navigation and never had a battery problem and never pulled any fuses. Our 2012 CRV has navigation and that is the primary drain, not the radio or any other device. The navigation system will keep "searching" unless the power is disconnected and that's the reason for pulling the fuse or installing a fused switch. If you have just a little basic 12volt knowledge, and you are comfortable working with hand tools, then buying a few components at Radio Shack and installing your own fuse and switch is very inexpensive and easy to do. If not, buy a kit. In my experience, there is no reason to have an external charging system for a CRV toad. If you do a search on this site I'm sure you can come up with detailed instructions, pics, etc. But, pick whatever option you like and feel good about it cheers, Joopy
What about just pulling the fuse if you are towing over 8 hrs? Seems simple enough... No cost... No issues...
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:36 PM   #26
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What about just pulling the fuse if you are towing over 8 hrs? Seems simple enough... No cost... No issues...
Ted,
You would think so. But, the fuse is MICRO and the fuse box is located under the dash in a very difficult spot. Pulling and replacing each trip would be a serious PIA. If you're handy, installing the fused switch can be done easily in less than 30 minutes. Prep for towing from that point forward is a simple as flipping a switch!

FWIW - When I first towed with the navigation about two years ago (and had no fused switch) the battery drained in about 3 or 4 hours. I bought a portable battery "jump starter" to carry along. I then searched this site for a solution and that's how I learned about the switch. I still have the jump starter but have never had to use it after installing the switch.

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Old 03-05-2014, 07:29 PM   #27
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Ted, You would think so. But, the fuse is MICRO and the fuse box is located under the dash in a very difficult spot. Pulling and replacing each trip would be a serious PIA. If you're handy, installing the fused switch can be done easily in less than 30 minutes. Prep for towing from that point forward is a simple as flipping a switch! FWIW - When I first towed with the navigation about two years ago (and had no fused switch) the battery drained in about 3 or 4 hours. I bought a portable battery "jump starter" to carry along. I then searched this site for a solution and that's how I learned about the switch. I still have the jump starter but have never had to use it after installing the switch. cheers, Joopy
Thanks. If it is so simple, what exactly do you need and how do you do it?
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:39 AM   #28
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I also have a Blue Ox system and the Patriot Brake for my HHR. I found you need to run a 12v feed from the 7 pin coach connector to the Toad battery with a fuse in the line to avoid depleting the toad battery. This really only involves extending up the 12v feed at toad connector to the battery and adding a self resetting auto breaker - if I recall correctly. The Toad Charge is elegant but overly costly and complex - in my opinion - when a simple 12v feed will suffice. I also found the rechargeable battery in the Patriot is inadequate for extended towing. Remember if the voltage drops to the brake, it enters the error mode. You should also disconnect the fuses specified and install a switch to do so unless you have miniature fingers and don't mind reconnecting fuses in less than ideal conditions - read dark and wet! Installing the switch and wiring is a one time task that you will benefit from for many years and won't be burdened or have to worry about the toad battery when you detach the toad and want to get away.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:47 AM   #29
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Thanks. If it is so simple, what exactly do you need and how do you do it?
Ted,

Search this site and you'll find a good bit of info on "how to" make this happen. I constructed a set of metal tabs that inserted into the fuse block and replaced the MINI fuse and I first soldered wire leads to tabs. From the hot side of the fuse block (check with volt meter) I ran a wire from to a fuse holder and then to the dash mounted switch (could be mounted under dash or anywhere you like). From the switch, a wire back to the other side of the fuse block. That's about it. Fuse holders (and correct size fuse), rocker or toggle switch, wire, and any other components you need are readily available. Again, maybe a 30 minute job give or take. Once a done...

Below is a pic of my dash mounted switch.

A quick search turned up this from another member response on how he did it.

I wish I had taken pictures but here goes. After soldering 2 wires to an non Honda fuse ( grind or file down the upper 2 coroners). Then you solder a wire to each corner. I then used a hot glue gun to give a little extra strength.
You run one wire up to the switch in the dash and the other also goes to the switch but somewhere along that wire you insert a in line fuse holder (any physical size – so that you can use any type of fuse that “fits” but use a 7.5 amp fuse). That way you will actually have a fuse in the circuit when you turn the switch on. Oh, yes you must short out the soldered fuse to “blow” it – use a penlight battery – open circuit.
Then you insert that fuse with the attached wires into the fuse board where the accessory fuse should go. You will find that much easier to do since the non Honda fuse will stand up out of the fuse panel. Now again the inline fuse will protect the circuit and you can turn it on and off from the dash. See attached picture.
I used a switch from Radio Shack and used a hole saw to cut a hole in one of the blank switch covers. That was much easier than trying to pry it out of the dash and messing it up. If you buy the switch that comes with an under the dash bracket – you can use the hole in the bracket to get the exact size of the hole saw required.
You won’t have to reset your radio code but I still taped mine to the back of the sun visor along with a photocopy of the start-up procedure for towing the car. That way I don’t have a senior moment.
Hope this helps.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:00 AM   #30
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Thanks!
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:02 PM   #31
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Great write up, nicely done.

Seems to me you can buy a fuse with the wires already attached for just this type of application. If you google 'fuse tap' you get a lot of results, but I think they are mostly for adding a fuse. I found the image below that would let you bypass the fuse to a switch like you're doing here. Then all you need is a spst switch and a fuse holder and you're good to go.







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Old 03-06-2014, 04:29 PM   #32
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Great write up, nicely done.

Seems to me you can buy a fuse with the wires already attached for just this type of application. If you google 'fuse tap' you get a lot of results, but I think they are mostly for adding a fuse. I found the image below that would let you bypass the fuse to a switch like you're doing here. Then all you need is a spst switch and a fuse holder and you're good to go.







Chris,

Wish I would have found that little gem when I did my work. I can't tell from the blue fuse pic, but the red fuse appears to still be intact. In other words, this hardware would allow you to bypass the existing fuse and allow you to "add" another separately fused circuit which could be desirable for some applications.

But, for this application you would want to be sure to use a blown fuse and route your wire back to the other pole on the dead fuse. Otherwise, with an intact fuse, the navigation would remain energized regardless of the switch position.

Thanks for the tip. This is a nice little, simple gadget for adding devices and I'll be sure to keep it in mind for future projects.

cheers,
Joopy
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:31 PM   #33
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Well yeah, there is that. Like you say, a quick short and POOF, it's gone.
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